Maino 4 speed city/touring bike
07-29-16, 05:33 AM
#76
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If I am not mistaken I believe "condorino" refers to the style of bike, typified by the handlebars (narrow, relatively flat, with levers built in). But I could be wrong.
07-29-16, 05:52 AM
#77
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Condorino refers to the type of handlebar. The type of bike is it is a Sport bike. Most all major manufacturers had them.
12-22-16, 04:47 PM
#78
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Came across this Maino catalogue page from 1950.
Oldairhead has written that Maino closed in the 1960's and rights to name were acquired by Cesare Rizzato (Atala/Lygie). Maino badged cycles continued to be made by this firm for a time.
Came across this Maino catalogue page from 1950.
Oldairhead has written that Maino closed in the 1960's and rights to name were acquired by Cesare Rizzato (Atala/Lygie). Maino badged cycles continued to be made by this firm for a time.
12-22-16, 08:35 PM
#79
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Maino is currently my fixation. I'm a bit of a fan of Girardengo, who had some pretty incredible seasons aboard a Maino.
I just bought a 1926 Model G (for Girardengo) and a rust bucket 40's city bike frame that I'm converting to a retro-mod/Renaissance build! I would post more details, but my 20-odd bikes are currently in Pods heading half way across the country!
There are a number of Maino's that appear on eBay.it, but then again, a number of bikes are listed as Maino simply because they have a faux triple plate crown and are so full of rust there are no tell tale signs of branding.
My model G is the last bike shown on my l'Eroica post from October.
One final item - if you're interested in the brand's history and can read Italian, the latest issue of Biciclette d'Epoca has a feature on GMA (Giovanni Maino Alessandria). Cover below...
I just bought a 1926 Model G (for Girardengo) and a rust bucket 40's city bike frame that I'm converting to a retro-mod/Renaissance build! I would post more details, but my 20-odd bikes are currently in Pods heading half way across the country!
There are a number of Maino's that appear on eBay.it, but then again, a number of bikes are listed as Maino simply because they have a faux triple plate crown and are so full of rust there are no tell tale signs of branding.
My model G is the last bike shown on my l'Eroica post from October.
One final item - if you're interested in the brand's history and can read Italian, the latest issue of Biciclette d'Epoca has a feature on GMA (Giovanni Maino Alessandria). Cover below...
12-24-16, 03:04 PM
#80
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I'm doing a wheel build for this bike soon. I measured the hubs and got the following measurements.
Front:
Hub flange diameter 35mm
Hub center-flange center 34mm
Rear:
Hub flange diameter 44mm both sides
Hub center-flange center 19mm NDS/ 35mm DS
And the Alex DM18 ERD is 609mm.
If these measurements are correct I need 296.8mm spokes up front, 295.6 on the NDS, and 293.9 on the DS. I think I will round the front and the NDS to 296mm and use the same length for them, there's no reason I can't do that is there?
As I'm using double walled rims, should I just use the same spokes all around? On my double walled rims I don't think a 2mm difference would cause the spoke to hit the tire, but the threads might bottom out?
Front:
Hub flange diameter 35mm
Hub center-flange center 34mm
Rear:
Hub flange diameter 44mm both sides
Hub center-flange center 19mm NDS/ 35mm DS
And the Alex DM18 ERD is 609mm.
If these measurements are correct I need 296.8mm spokes up front, 295.6 on the NDS, and 293.9 on the DS. I think I will round the front and the NDS to 296mm and use the same length for them, there's no reason I can't do that is there?
As I'm using double walled rims, should I just use the same spokes all around? On my double walled rims I don't think a 2mm difference would cause the spoke to hit the tire, but the threads might bottom out?
12-24-16, 03:12 PM
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Would it be wrong to put butted spokes on a bike like this? It might look kind of funny.
12-24-16, 07:04 PM
#82
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It will be great to see it being ridden, an anachronistic part here or there is just fine.
12-24-16, 07:58 PM
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Thanks, and it has been ridden. The spoke hole corrosion on the rear wheel isn't too bad, so I've been riding it with the original rear wheel and a spare front wheel for now. It hasn't been out for a few months as there's salt on the roads. I still ride, but not on this bike.
03-16-17, 08:25 AM
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I'm riding the Erie Canal from Buffalo to Albany this spring, and I'm thinking about using this bike instead of my Fuji. Am I crazy?
The 700x38 tires could help.
The 700x38 tires could help.
03-16-17, 08:35 AM
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Ride the bike that you want to ride. Ride the bike that will be the most fun. Ride the bike that will give you the most to talk about with people you meet. Ride the bike that will look the best in pictures.
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www.rhmsaddles.com.
www.rhmsaddles.com.
03-16-17, 08:54 AM
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This one has been a good conversation starter.
03-16-17, 08:42 PM
#87
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Here is my Maino from circa 1935/1936. RHM restored the saddle for me and did an amazing job! Maino has a wonderful racing heritage. Actually there is a early 30's bike on Ebay right now (item #272590882983) for a somewhat ridiculous asking price of around $11,000! 
05-23-17, 02:46 PM
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Can someone help me figure out what size locknut I need for this bike's pedals? I stripped one.
The (non-stripped) nut threads onto an M7 x 1.0 bolt, but an M7 x 1.0 nut will not thread onto the pedal spindle. The hardware store guy also thought it might be 5/16- 24, but that was too big.
Is there any hope of finding a replacement? Does anyone have a suggestion?
The (non-stripped) nut threads onto an M7 x 1.0 bolt, but an M7 x 1.0 nut will not thread onto the pedal spindle. The hardware store guy also thought it might be 5/16- 24, but that was too big.
Is there any hope of finding a replacement? Does anyone have a suggestion?
Last edited by Seizedpost; 05-23-17 at 02:53 PM.
05-23-17, 04:13 PM
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This certainly is puzzling.
Sounds to me like you went at it in exactly the right manner.
Wonder if there could be some sort of burr or other thread deformation on one of the parts. You could try looking at them with magnification.
A metric tap and die set is very handy and not inordinately costly. If I knew the nominal thread of a non-working nut I would run a tap through it or in the case of a bolt a die over it.
Have you tried checking the threads of the parts with a metric thread gauge? Very inexpensive and very handy tool.
Forget the suggestion of the hardware store person. Those parts are not going to be fractional.
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This certainly is puzzling.
Sounds to me like you went at it in exactly the right manner.
Wonder if there could be some sort of burr or other thread deformation on one of the parts. You could try looking at them with magnification.
A metric tap and die set is very handy and not inordinately costly. If I knew the nominal thread of a non-working nut I would run a tap through it or in the case of a bolt a die over it.
Have you tried checking the threads of the parts with a metric thread gauge? Very inexpensive and very handy tool.
Forget the suggestion of the hardware store person. Those parts are not going to be fractional.
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05-24-17, 01:00 PM
#90
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Are you sure they aren't fractional? The nut fits perfectly into a 7/16" socket, it's too big for 11mm and too small for 12mm.
06-05-17, 09:57 PM
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Would think the thing to do is to check the threading on the spindle end for the cone and locknut with a thread gauge:
https://www.google.com/shopping/produ...qsCDQQ8wIIJTAC
https://www.google.com/shopping/produ...qsCDQQ8wIILzAF
Seems odd that an Italian manufacturer would employ a fractional/imperial locknut, but then the thread at the other end of the spindle is definitely fractional...
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Last edited by juvela; 06-06-17 at 02:51 AM. Reason: addition
