Addiction 2022.3
#7226
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I was hoping you'd weigh in. Thanks! The general consensus on the forum is that the key off draws on the battery are too great for the size of the battery. Unless it is commuted in every day, for a significant period of time, it doesn't charge fully. We take public transport whenever we can, because we hate driving in the city, so the car gets used little. maybe once a week sometimes. One poster postulated that if is let sit for a full week without being started, the offline draws would completely drain the battery, at least for being able to start it. I'm going to get a voltmeter that plugs into the cigarette lighter, in order to keep tabs on it. And maybe a portable jump start unit. Seems like it would be handy to have.
I still think your problem is just crappy batteries.
#7227
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Hey, datlas or any one else with a wheel-on trainer. Do you use a trainer tire and do they go bad on you? My Zaffiro Pros all develop a permanent lump after a couple of seasons. It’s a little S-like, sideways deviation which just gets worse and until the noise and bumping become intolerable. Suggests to me the thing is expanding circumferentially, maybe due to drag or heat or both.
#7228
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A voltmeter can tell you if the voltage drops but it can't tell you why. An ammeter can tell you how much parasitic draw is on the battery. We like to see less than 50 milliamps. If it's under that number it shouldn't go down in a week. An inductive ammeter is expensive but cheap ones are available that connect in series. When checking for a draw you have to wait for all modules to go "to sleep". This might take 15 minutes. If the draw is intermittent, good luck.
I still think your problem is just crappy batteries.
I still think your problem is just crappy batteries.
And for some cars an AGM battery might be a better option
We have two Acura's with a fairly high parasitic draw - so a low end or even medium level battery will not be sufficient
Also have batteries in three garden tractors that will sit for extended periods - again a low end battery will not be sufficient
At one time I used Sears Diehard batteries with good results - but then Sears went under and don't know if the reintroduced Diehard batteries sold by (?) auto parts stores are the same high quality as the Sears Diehard batteries of decades ago
I believe the top level Sears DieHard batteries were manufactured by Johnson Controls - as opposed to Exide - but not sure (I believe both companies have been purchased and / or renamed )
More recently I've purchased Duracell batteries that (I believe) are manufactured by East Penn ; these batteries have provided good service in our cars including both cars that have high parasitic draw and also in the garden tractors that sit for extended periods
The last Duracell battery I installed is an AGM battery - more expensive and the slightly smaller size forced battery tray / hold down modifications - but the AGM battery has higher cold cranking power and will tolerate longer periods without use / more tolerant to drain
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#7229
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I was hoping you'd weigh in. Thanks! The general consensus on the forum is that the key off draws on the battery are too great for the size of the battery. Unless it is commuted in every day, for a significant period of time, it doesn't charge fully. We take public transport whenever we can, because we hate driving in the city, so the car gets used little. maybe once a week sometimes. One poster postulated that if is let sit for a full week without being started, the offline draws would completely drain the battery, at least for being able to start it. I'm going to get a voltmeter that plugs into the cigarette lighter, in order to keep tabs on it. And maybe a portable jump start unit. Seems like it would be handy to have.
can also charge our phones with it - and with an adapter can charge / run laptop computer
Last edited by t2p; 10-07-22 at 07:41 PM.
#7230
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We had a customer with a new truck and he would let it sit for a month or more and then have it towed in. The service writer insisted I "fix it". General Motors said it wasn't supposed to sit for 3 weeks and recommended disconnecting the battery. Still had it towed in several more times after that.
#7231
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A voltmeter can tell you if the voltage drops but it can't tell you why. An ammeter can tell you how much parasitic draw is on the battery. We like to see less than 50 milliamps. If it's under that number it shouldn't go down in a week. An inductive ammeter is expensive but cheap ones are available that connect in series. When checking for a draw you have to wait for all modules to go "to sleep". This might take 15 minutes. If the draw is intermittent, good luck.
I still think your problem is just crappy batteries.
I still think your problem is just crappy batteries.
This is our first new car since the 91 Corolla. A lot has changed.
Last edited by seedsbelize2; 10-07-22 at 09:25 PM.
#7232
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This item costs $89 at amazon.com and doesn't ship to Mexico. On amazon.com.mx it costs $300. Typical. There are many advantages to living here, and a few disadvantages.
#7233
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The Duralast battery that lasted 22 months was guaranteed for 5 years. The point of the volt meter is simply to give warning about when it's time for a new battery. To prevent it going dead in an underground parking lot late in the day. It's something we will now plan for, rather than being blind-sided again.
This is our first new car since the 91 Corolla. A lot has changed.
This is our first new car since the 91 Corolla. A lot has changed.
If the voltage drops below about 10 volts for any reason it probably needs a jump. Batteries going dead in cars can be a real pain to diagnose. We had a $5000 computerized tester/charger from GM and it was mandatory to use and get a printout from on warranty battery claims. Even that thing isn't 100% reliable.
#7234
Fat n slow
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Agree - some cars will not tolerate low end or even average batteries ... not for long at least
And for some cars an AGM battery might be a better option
We have two Acura's with a fairly high parasitic draw - so a low end or even medium level battery will not be sufficient
Also have batteries in three garden tractors that will sit for extended periods - again a low end battery will not be sufficient
At one time I used Sears Diehard batteries with good results - but then Sears went under and don't know if the reintroduced Diehard batteries sold by (?) auto parts stores are the same high quality as the Sears Diehard batteries of decades ago
I believe the top level Sears DieHard batteries were manufactured by Johnson Controls - as opposed to Exide - but not sure (I believe both companies have been purchased and / or renamed )
More recently I've purchased Duracell batteries that (I believe) are manufactured by East Penn ; these batteries have provided good service in our cars including both cars that have high parasitic draw and also in the garden tractors that sit for extended periods
The last Duracell battery I installed is an AGM battery - more expensive and the slightly smaller size forced battery tray / hold down modifications - but the AGM battery has higher cold cranking power and will tolerate longer periods without use / more tolerant to drain
And for some cars an AGM battery might be a better option
We have two Acura's with a fairly high parasitic draw - so a low end or even medium level battery will not be sufficient
Also have batteries in three garden tractors that will sit for extended periods - again a low end battery will not be sufficient
At one time I used Sears Diehard batteries with good results - but then Sears went under and don't know if the reintroduced Diehard batteries sold by (?) auto parts stores are the same high quality as the Sears Diehard batteries of decades ago
I believe the top level Sears DieHard batteries were manufactured by Johnson Controls - as opposed to Exide - but not sure (I believe both companies have been purchased and / or renamed )
More recently I've purchased Duracell batteries that (I believe) are manufactured by East Penn ; these batteries have provided good service in our cars including both cars that have high parasitic draw and also in the garden tractors that sit for extended periods
The last Duracell battery I installed is an AGM battery - more expensive and the slightly smaller size forced battery tray / hold down modifications - but the AGM battery has higher cold cranking power and will tolerate longer periods without use / more tolerant to drain
#7235
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It’s a cool 46F but dry, time to ride!
Hey MoAlpha I use an old/worn tire. The outer tread layer is starting to delaminate at sidewall margin, but still seems functional. Maybe a few lumps but not enough to motivate me to put another tire on. I have a few worn tires lying around which will be repurposed as trainer tires when current trainer one is really shot. All Conti GP4000’s.
Hey MoAlpha I use an old/worn tire. The outer tread layer is starting to delaminate at sidewall margin, but still seems functional. Maybe a few lumps but not enough to motivate me to put another tire on. I have a few worn tires lying around which will be repurposed as trainer tires when current trainer one is really shot. All Conti GP4000’s.
#7236
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Wordle 476 6/6
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#7237
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Hey, datlas or any one else with a wheel-on trainer. Do you use a trainer tire and do they go bad on you? My Zaffiro Pros all develop a permanent lump after a couple of seasons. It’s a little S-like, sideways deviation which just gets worse and until the noise and bumping become intolerable. Suggests to me the thing is expanding circumferentially, maybe due to drag or heat or both.
You don't leave the bike/trainer set-up, and the tire under roller tension, do you?
#7238
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I don't want to argue but I don't understand how a voltmeter can give a warning. If you have a substantial draw the voltage will drop as the car sits. You might need to jump start it but it doesn't need a new battery if you left the lights on, for example. As soon as it's running it will go up to 14 volts.
If the voltage drops below about 10 volts for any reason it probably needs a jump. Batteries going dead in cars can be a real pain to diagnose. We had a $5000 computerized tester/charger from GM and it was mandatory to use and get a printout from on warranty battery claims. Even that thing isn't 100% reliable.
If the voltage drops below about 10 volts for any reason it probably needs a jump. Batteries going dead in cars can be a real pain to diagnose. We had a $5000 computerized tester/charger from GM and it was mandatory to use and get a printout from on warranty battery claims. Even that thing isn't 100% reliable.
#7239
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I used one of those Vittoria trainer tires for 5+ seasons and it still ran smooth and true when I sold it. This was pre-Zwift for me, so my "mileage" was lower, but probably still several hundred miles per winter.
You don't leave the bike/trainer set-up, and the tire under roller tension, do you?
You don't leave the bike/trainer set-up, and the tire under roller tension, do you?
#7240
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A battery can test good and start the car normally and go bad the next day. A battery can go dead and after a jump can work fine for months until the next failure.
They can test good and be dead every morning.
The AGM batteries are the worst to diagnose. They almost always test good, even when they have to be jumped regularly.
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#7241
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#7242
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If you don’t use the car much, you might consider an inexpensive solar trickle charger, which you can just put on and leave. Lead-acid batteries love to sit at a full charge and it will definitely lengthen their life.
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#7244
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The 2017 Fit, purchased in 2018, has lost its second battery. 70,000 km. I just came from Fit Forums, and it is a common problem. Seems the battery is just too small, and the 'smart charging' is dumb. Folks are disconnecting it and getting better life. Beware @datlas. How about you, Humbug? Battery issues?
#7245
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Wordle 476 5/6
⬜⬜🟩🟨⬜
🟨⬜🟩🟩⬜
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Had a hard time with this word.
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Had a hard time with this word.
#7246
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A DTC does trigger for that disconnected sensor wire, a P!550. When I did this mod about 6 years ago, I installed in-line bullet connectors so when it was time for yearly emissions/inspections in NYC, I'd reconnect it. But I eventually forgot about it a year or so later with it disconnected and didn't have any issues passing emissions even with the P1550. We just moved to Sugar Land, TX this past July and had to get the truck inspected first before registration. Same thing, no problems even with the P1550; I was more afraid of all the modified and aftermarket performance bolt-ons on the truck would be an issue but all good there too.
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#7247
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#7248
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#7249
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I hit 'reply to thread' 3 times. Re-loaded the site. Same result. I can't reply without quoting. This happens on occasion.
#7250
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16 back road miles. So much more relaxing. Why did it take me so long to think of it?
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