Suntour GPX Hub odd attachment
01-01-24, 11:58 AM
#1
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Suntour GPX Hub odd attachment
I picked up a set of wheels and the rear has the thing screwed on as in pic.
A) What is it?
B) How do I remove it?
Wheels are from an RB-1 primarily used on a trainer FWIW.
A) What is it?
B) How do I remove it?
Wheels are from an RB-1 primarily used on a trainer FWIW.
01-01-24, 12:05 PM
#2
Pedalin' Erry Day
That's the inner half of a freewheel that someone took apart while it was still on the wheel. You'll need the matching 4-prong freewheel removal tool to get this off of the hub.
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01-01-24, 12:51 PM
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Ahh, I’ve never disassembled a FW so that explains my ignorance. Thank you for the education.
Regardless, carcass removed and things will be cleaned for its next life.
Regardless, carcass removed and things will be cleaned for its next life.
01-01-24, 03:06 PM
#4
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Or if you don’t expect to rebuild the freewheel, since the other bits are lacking, you could just use a set of vice grips or a big pair of channel lock pliers.
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01-01-24, 05:52 PM
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Was also thinking that this freewheel might have come apart while riding(?).
01-01-24, 08:01 PM
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The big bench vise method would be my choice. It’s been on there 30+ years… it might not want to let go.
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01-01-24, 08:11 PM
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There isn't any downside to any method if you aren't keeping the freewheel.
01-01-24, 10:14 PM
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One thing about the bench vise though, is that the shell of the freewheel body and the threaded snout on the hubshell aren't quite as thick as might be assumed, given that freewheel bodies look and feel pretty hefty.
So best to not use any more tightening force than necessary for "traction", especially on a bigger vise's handle, lest the hubshell become vulnerable to deformation or cracking.
That small bit of elastic ovalization will only assist with cracking loose the static bond at the threads, but exceeding the elastic range of the hubshell might not be hard to do.
So best to not use any more tightening force than necessary for "traction", especially on a bigger vise's handle, lest the hubshell become vulnerable to deformation or cracking.
That small bit of elastic ovalization will only assist with cracking loose the static bond at the threads, but exceeding the elastic range of the hubshell might not be hard to do.
01-01-24, 10:54 PM
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Removal of the FW body wasn’t too horrible. I removed the pawls and put some channelocks on the flats and it came off fairly easy. Lucky me!
Note to future googlers - a 2 pin Suntour tool on a 4 slot FW will turn out badly.
Note to future googlers - a 2 pin Suntour tool on a 4 slot FW will turn out badly.
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01-01-24, 11:06 PM
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01-02-24, 03:23 AM
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Dork disc outlasted the freewheel, and without yellowing to boot.
