dirtchurch

My bike's rear freehub stopped freewheeling after I rode it for 14 miles through some very wet conditions (rain and dirty puddles) in Minnesota. The freehub pawls stay stuck and the hub won't freewheel, effectively turning my Surly Ghost Grappler bike into a fixie.

I have had this happen to me three times this winter. It happens when I ride through cold rain and puddles. The issue doesn't happen during a ride, but when I hang up the bike by the front wheel and come back the next morning, the hub has seized.

The fix is to apply freehub lube to the pawls. However, it keeps happening and I need a permanent solution. This bike is my primary mode of transportation in the winter, and this issue renders my bike unusable.

I'm going to try to warranty the Novatec hub, and apply more lube/oil in the mean time. What do you all recommend as the best oil/lube/grease to apply to keep this from happening? And, do you suggest I replace this hub with a Chris King hub or anything else that would be more reliable? It's 12x148mm boost spacing FYI.

Thank you!

FBinNY 

Questions.

Are you talking about after ourdoor storage?
What is the ambient temperature?

IME, wet bikes or components can freeze when stored indoors then brought out into sub freezing weather. They will also freeze if left out below freezing temps.

Keep in mind that these problems are often worst at near 32. If you've seen those signs saying "Bridge freezes before pavement", be aware that the same applies to your bike.

During a miserable commute in a freezing rain, my bike got glazed building up ice over 1/4 inch thick.

If it is water inside the freehub, you must purge it with heat. A long cycle with s hair dryer, or remove it and bake at 150 or so for a while. Then lube with a thick oil which will coat everything (inside) and prevent a recurrance.

dirtchurch

Answers.
Are you talking about after ourdoor storage?
I always store it inside, hanging up vertically by the front wheel. Unfortunately this causes dripping from the ice/sludge caked on the downtube, dripping directly into the hub area. I've tried to remedy this in the past by wiping down my bike, and that's been effective. This time, since it was raining (it was around 39F) there was no sludge caked on that I could tell.

What is the ambient temperature?
On the ride that caused this, about 39F. The indoor storage temp is around 70F.

I thought the freezing might have been an issue, but I have repeatedly ridden this bike in subzero temperatures (ranging from -5F and up) and then brought it inside without any issue... but you may be on to something with the freeze/thaw having an effect. If the plethora of new potholes in our roads are any indication, this weather just has been exceptionally bad.

FBinNY 

39 seems warm for wind chill cooling to be involved.

I'd start by hanging the bike rear wheel up and see if that helps.

If icing isn't the issue, I'd suspect dirt or grease, but the problem is odd. Normal freehub failure is to not engage. One locked up, is normally freed by turning back, which of necessity would disengage the pawls. If it happens again, shift to low and try backpedalling. If necessary, try jamming the freewheel with your foot and roll the bike back a bit.

Crankycrank

Freehub may just need a good flush and re-lube. Just adding more lube without the flush may not help.

dirtchurch

If i hold the cassette (it's not a freewheel) with my hand, and kind of jiggle it to rotate it (simulating backpedaling), it eventually disengages the pawls. But then another 15 degree rotation and it engages the next set of pawls and stops again. It feels so sticky.

alcjphil

I have no idea what road conditions near you are like, but where I live, temperatures just below and just above freezing are when road salt is most effective and also most corrosive. I have no idea how deeply you can service that free hub, whether you can open it up to inspect the innards where the pawls live, but rust in that area inside the hub sounds like what might be the root of your problem

FBinNY 

This sounds like it might be overly thick or stiff lube. This would be most probable if you greased rather than oiled the freehub body.

Or it might simply be packed with crud.

The likelihood of either depends on whether the issue is clearly temperature related.

Either calls for a thorough flushing, drying, and reoiling. (or replacment)

Kontact 

Good cleaning and lube with a very light grease. Half an hour job.

dirtchurch

Thanks for all the responses everyone! And so quickly, too- really appreciate your thoughts and advice!
Just to clarify regarding the cause: the last time it was cleaned and re-lubed was two months ago and i have ridden it ~250 miles since then, through -5F to 40F temperatures, rain, snow, wind, with no problem. The problem started the day after the most recent rain which was particularly bad. The lube used to fix last time (Dumonde free hub oil) worked beautifully for 2 months.
Since it happens so unpredictably, I need to find a way to prevent this for good. Just curious to see if anyone else has had this issue but it seems like maybe the hub just needs replacement

gkamieneski

Always hang your bike by the rear wheel. Less stress on the rear dropouts than on the fork dropouts and it gives your drivetrain he chance to dry out.

Andrew R Stewart 

Yes, I understand drivetrains dry out better when hung one way than the other way... I also understand that front dropouts are too weak to tolerate hanging a static bike weight from them but can handle far greater road shocks...

This said in all satire. I'd like to see some more expert insight on this. Why would a drivetrain dry off better hung one way than the other? And why do ft dropouts have to be babied with low static weights but are fine when riding? Andy

FBinNY 

There's no percentage in trying to challenge old wive's tales. All you do is alienate a large segment of the married population.

Seriously, IMO, the best argument against hanging a bike by the front wheel is to avoid the wheel flopping as you take it down, and the H-bars hitting your head. If you're tall enough, or the hook is low, enough have at it because the bike doesn't care.

Andrew R Stewart 

Three bike hanging direction comments.

In 2002 I started working at a shop very highly regarded in the area. Very service focused as was my backround. At some point soon the discussion as to how to hang the repair bikes came up. I was still new there so hesitated to offer my opinion. To my surprise the boss said rear wheel up on all bikes. His reasoning was that one could lift the bike off the ceiling hook one handed while shifting adjacent bikes aside.

About ten years later when back home I was told by the boss that bikes should be only hung from their front wheel. This way both hands could be used to lift and maneuver the bike out of the storage area.

#3 is from the late 1970s when i learned to alternate the hanging bikes so the bars and seats didn't interfere as much with closely spaced hooks. This is what I still follow for my personal bikes. Andy

Kontact 

Use a creamy freehub grease. Clearly the oil is part of your problem.

Troul 

i'd go to a more durable hub as the brand that you have isn't something I'd mark as being durable, just affordable & mass produced.

Disassembling the hub unit & doing a flush out, dry out, & relube might be a bi-weekly task, for that to potentially increase the hubs reliability.

dirtchurch

Any recommendations on specific grease? Slick honey?

MeganCook

Hanging the rear wheel up would allow for easy one-handed removal of the bike, while hanging from the front wheel would allow for more stability and control when lifting the bike. It's also important to consider the type of bike being hung and its weight distribution. Ultimately, it seems like there is no one "right" way to hang a bike and it comes down to personal preference and what works best for the individual and their specific situation. Thanks for sharing your experiences and insights!

Andrew R Stewart 

I thought Slick Honey lube was for suspension sliding surfaces and not for rolling elements. For hub bearings I usually use either common Park or Phil green greases or for 4 season riders a marine grade grease. For a freewheel I would not use the thicker grease but would drip thick oil through it (after flushing with a thin solvent/cleaner). Andy (who has used a JA Stein and a Morning Star freewheel/freehub lube injectors for decades)

Kontact 

Dumondetech, Zipp and others make freehub pawn grease. Try one of those.

Slick Honey might be fine. Pawls are neither really sliding or rolling but something in between.

grumpus

That's why we secure the front wheel to the downtube with a strap - easy to get it in or out of the hook.
I tend to just stand my bikes on the back wheel propped against something to reduce the floor space they take up, I hadn't thought about whether that might cause road dirt to fall into any moving parts.

grumpus

I'd have thought a thin oil would be less likely to drag. The pawls aren't moving when they're loaded so they don't need a heavy lube.

Kontact 

The OP's lube is washing out. Thin lube washes out fastest.

FBinNY 

Yes, the freehub ratchet doesn't need much lubrication because there's very little friction involved. My recommendation for thick oil is based on years of experience as a all weather rider. I've found that a thicker oil forms a more durable film, offers better rust protection for a longer time.

Unlike many here, I don't baby my bikes. I set them up so I don't have to.

maddog34

Find some Shimano Freehub Body Grease... they know freehubs. your local bike shop should be able to order it.