For the love of English 3 speeds...
03-24-18, 10:03 AM
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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03-24-18, 11:24 AM
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It does have a wired rear light in the rear fender. This will become a 3-speed, the front fork may be bent.
holland.jpg
holland.jpg
Last edited by johnnyspaghetti; 03-24-18 at 11:29 AM.
03-24-18, 03:47 PM
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That's not a 1940s model - It's late 1960s by the seat tube stripes and the pedal reflector, as well as the Raleigh logo.
03-24-18, 04:25 PM
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03-24-18, 04:28 PM
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Finally one pops up at a decent price.
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/h...540292780.html
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/h...540292780.html
03-24-18, 05:22 PM
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03-24-18, 05:31 PM
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Can't blame people for thinking DL-1s are older than they actually are. Here's it's ancestor.
A 1936 Model 1 Not a whole lot different.
model1.jpg
A 1936 Model 1 Not a whole lot different.
model1.jpg
03-24-18, 06:01 PM
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03-24-18, 07:22 PM
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OOOH YEAH...Those big 28" wheels and check out the slack frame angles. Not for everybody, but they have a loyal and enthusiastic following. Wonderful bikes.
03-25-18, 03:36 PM
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I'd have a 2nd in a flash If I came across one. Love the ride quality of the slack angles. I never see them here though (Australia)
03-25-18, 06:32 PM
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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Tourist.JPG
Last edited by thumpism; 03-25-18 at 06:39 PM.
03-26-18, 07:18 AM
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Nicelite LED Conversions
I've got my first Dynohub project coming up and I was wondering what to do about the bulbs. Right now the system has two ancient filament bulbs that aren't working. The hub is producing current and there's continuity through the wires and the 3 position switch. So, I need to replace the bulbs with something. The only thing I can find on the internet are these Nicelite LED conversions. There's a component that attaches to the hub terminals that supposedly protects the LED from voltage spikes. Anybody here use these? I don't plan on night riding. I just want the lights to be functional. I'd be happy with the old fashioned bulbs if I could find them. Any thoughts? Thanks
03-26-18, 10:12 AM
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I bought Nicelite LEDs and a rectifier thingy to run between the Dynohub terminals from NICELITE SUPER LED LIGHT BULBS in the UK. They were helpful and it works great.
03-26-18, 11:03 AM
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Wonder no more. It's great. I have a pile of bike's and my bike with the Dynohub LEDs is my daily driver. You don't have to worry about batteries, turning them on/off, or blowing a bulb.
03-26-18, 11:10 AM
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I'm astounded there is no retro styled refit kit to buy for these old dynohub powered lights. I read an article a few years ago how to use bridge rectifiers, capacitors, and a copper heatsink to power an LED array, but, there must be thousands of dynohubs ready for an upgrade, I'd need mine with a phone charger built in too... C'mon people! why is there no modern upgrade?
03-26-18, 11:17 AM
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03-26-18, 05:49 PM
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You'll figure it out and soon you'll spot 'em at a glance. 23" for the frame is wrong also; in modern times the men's frame was made only in 24" (the most commonly found size) and 22". Here's a pic of my 22" for comparison.
Attachment 604654
Attachment 604654
Anyway, thanks for the 24/22 info. Do you know what the sizes for the women's frames were?
03-26-18, 07:10 PM
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Yup, As I get older I find I have to make all sorts of "adjustments" in my life. Being able to fine tune the overall gearing goes a long way to making these old 3 speeds practical riders. My DL-1 came from the factory with 46x16 cogs. I'm just not strong enough to mash a big roadster up hills with those ratios anymore. The change to 46x22 made all the difference for me. Looking forward to seeing your Robin Hood come along. Scorcher builds are fun. Might have to do another myself sometime.
03-26-18, 07:21 PM
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03-26-18, 08:56 PM
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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They were made with either a curved upper down tube (called a "loop" frame or "crescent") or a straight upper down tube, what most would call a typical ladies' frame, probably in 20" or 22" but I'm not certain about that. I'm sure a Tourist pro will chime in with specifics.
03-27-18, 04:30 AM
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1969 Robin Hood
So, I did go out last weekend to pick up this tall frame, as well as a box of assorted useful parts.
$_59.jpg
Turned out to be a stalled project bike. The young owner had trouble with the cotters and moved on to a 1962 Glider 3 speed instead. His Glider inherited the hub from the Robin Hood and I, in turn have the '62 hub.
His '62 turned out quite nice and he'll send me some photos which I'll post.
I'll post some shots this weekend and update the progress.
BTW, I managed to get the cotters out with a couple of good whacks..
$_59.jpg
Turned out to be a stalled project bike. The young owner had trouble with the cotters and moved on to a 1962 Glider 3 speed instead. His Glider inherited the hub from the Robin Hood and I, in turn have the '62 hub.
His '62 turned out quite nice and he'll send me some photos which I'll post.
I'll post some shots this weekend and update the progress.
BTW, I managed to get the cotters out with a couple of good whacks..
03-27-18, 04:37 AM
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You may find that the rear wheel will sit a little further back in the drop outs and you have to adjust the rear fender as well.
03-27-18, 09:58 AM
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Turned out to be a stalled project bike. The young owner had trouble with the cotters and moved on to a 1962 Glider 3 speed instead. His Glider inherited the hub from the Robin Hood and I, in turn have the '62 hub.
His '62 turned out quite nice and he'll send me some photos which I'll post.
I'll post some shots this weekend and update the progress.
BTW, I managed to get the cotters out with a couple of good whacks..
His '62 turned out quite nice and he'll send me some photos which I'll post.
I'll post some shots this weekend and update the progress.
BTW, I managed to get the cotters out with a couple of good whacks..
If you whack them out, you run the risk of damaging the bearing cups, bearings and bottom bracket axle, the crank arm(s), plus the cotters themselves. If your whack is unsuccessful, drilling might become the only option, and the resulting damage to the axle can be heartbreaking- they are not that common any more. The original cotters are usually much harder than the new ones you find these days, and if your bike has the 'Raleigh nuts' retaining the cotters, they probably won't be usable with a replacement.
Cotter pins are meant to be removed and installed with a cotter press. The nut is merely used to retain the cotter once pressed into place. There are vintage units, which usually go for a lot of money on ebay or at swap meets, and there are newer units like this one:
New Crank Cotter Press
I've had one of these for several years and it has long since paid for itself!
You can also use C-clamps as a press- a bit more tricky, but a less expensive alternative.