For the love of English 3 speeds...
04-02-19, 03:55 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 1,604
Bikes: Too many 3-speeds, Jones Plus LWB
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 360 Post(s)
Liked 280 Times
in
126 Posts
04-02-19, 06:28 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 588
Bikes: 1951 Sun Wasp, 1953 Armstrong Consort, 1975 Raleigh Competition, 1980 Apollo Gran Sport, 1988 Schwinn Voyageur, Mystery MTB
Mentioned: 31 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 366 Post(s)
Liked 498 Times
in
195 Posts
04-03-19, 07:51 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,572
Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed
Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1030 Post(s)
Liked 445 Times
in
288 Posts
Hercules Progress
The rear tyre has been fitted.
It was a bit of a struggle that included
warming the tire over the heating vent....
The frame's been painted and some reassembly has started.
I'm trying to take my time with this project and not rush.
The rear tyre has been fitted.
It was a bit of a struggle that included
warming the tire over the heating vent....
The frame's been painted and some reassembly has started.
I'm trying to take my time with this project and not rush.
04-03-19, 12:38 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 1,604
Bikes: Too many 3-speeds, Jones Plus LWB
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 360 Post(s)
Liked 280 Times
in
126 Posts
Just a random FWIW...
I commute on my '72 Superbe. Lately I've been dealing with a stripped nut on the rear axle. This would cause the rear wheel to engage the left chain stay in a rather disconcerting fashion. On my bike this is a two piece affair of a regular nut and then the indicator bit which is a threaded cylinder with a hole drilled through it, part of Raleigh's on-going 'penny wise pound foolish' tendency at the time. I was thinking I would have to replace the axle in the hub as well.
Turned out that was not the case. The nut had simply stripped; upon doing so this put all the forces on the 'indicator nut' portion which then fractured. When I removed the two I found that the axle appeared alright (yay!) so simply cleaning the axle of the swarf from the old parts and installing an old-school single-piece indicator nut was all that was needed to set things right.
Its my opinion that the two piece indicator nut system should be ditched in favor of the old school single piece indicator nut as the older part appears to be machined from better steel and is less likely to strip. Fortunately also the axle itself is made from better material as well else this could have been a real pain in the rear. So in addition to the metal pulley and fulcrum clip that jon@gentlemancyclist.com offers, obtaining this nut as well is a good idea if the bike is intended as a rider and part of the family. The newer nut system IMO is less reliable and could lead to a stripped axle.
I commute on my '72 Superbe. Lately I've been dealing with a stripped nut on the rear axle. This would cause the rear wheel to engage the left chain stay in a rather disconcerting fashion. On my bike this is a two piece affair of a regular nut and then the indicator bit which is a threaded cylinder with a hole drilled through it, part of Raleigh's on-going 'penny wise pound foolish' tendency at the time. I was thinking I would have to replace the axle in the hub as well.
Turned out that was not the case. The nut had simply stripped; upon doing so this put all the forces on the 'indicator nut' portion which then fractured. When I removed the two I found that the axle appeared alright (yay!) so simply cleaning the axle of the swarf from the old parts and installing an old-school single-piece indicator nut was all that was needed to set things right.
Its my opinion that the two piece indicator nut system should be ditched in favor of the old school single piece indicator nut as the older part appears to be machined from better steel and is less likely to strip. Fortunately also the axle itself is made from better material as well else this could have been a real pain in the rear. So in addition to the metal pulley and fulcrum clip that jon@gentlemancyclist.com offers, obtaining this nut as well is a good idea if the bike is intended as a rider and part of the family. The newer nut system IMO is less reliable and could lead to a stripped axle.
04-03-19, 02:44 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,572
Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed
Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1030 Post(s)
Liked 445 Times
in
288 Posts
Just a random FWIW...
I commute on my '72 Superbe. Lately I've been dealing with a stripped nut on the rear axle. This would cause the rear wheel to engage the left chain stay in a rather disconcerting fashion. On my bike this is a two piece affair of a regular nut and then the indicator bit which is a threaded cylinder with a hole drilled through it, part of Raleigh's on-going 'penny wise pound foolish' tendency at the time. I was thinking I would have to replace the axle in the hub as well.
Turned out that was not the case. The nut had simply stripped; upon doing so this put all the forces on the 'indicator nut' portion which then fractured. When I removed the two I found that the axle appeared alright (yay!) so simply cleaning the axle of the swarf from the old parts and installing an old-school single-piece indicator nut was all that was needed to set things right.
Its my opinion that the two piece indicator nut system should be ditched in favor of the old school single piece indicator nut as the older part appears to be machined from better steel and is less likely to strip. Fortunately also the axle itself is made from better material as well else this could have been a real pain in the rear. So in addition to the metal pulley and fulcrum clip that jon@gentlemancyclist.com offers, obtaining this nut as well is a good idea if the bike is intended as a rider and part of the family. The newer nut system IMO is less reliable and could lead to a stripped axle.
I commute on my '72 Superbe. Lately I've been dealing with a stripped nut on the rear axle. This would cause the rear wheel to engage the left chain stay in a rather disconcerting fashion. On my bike this is a two piece affair of a regular nut and then the indicator bit which is a threaded cylinder with a hole drilled through it, part of Raleigh's on-going 'penny wise pound foolish' tendency at the time. I was thinking I would have to replace the axle in the hub as well.
Turned out that was not the case. The nut had simply stripped; upon doing so this put all the forces on the 'indicator nut' portion which then fractured. When I removed the two I found that the axle appeared alright (yay!) so simply cleaning the axle of the swarf from the old parts and installing an old-school single-piece indicator nut was all that was needed to set things right.
Its my opinion that the two piece indicator nut system should be ditched in favor of the old school single piece indicator nut as the older part appears to be machined from better steel and is less likely to strip. Fortunately also the axle itself is made from better material as well else this could have been a real pain in the rear. So in addition to the metal pulley and fulcrum clip that jon@gentlemancyclist.com offers, obtaining this nut as well is a good idea if the bike is intended as a rider and part of the family. The newer nut system IMO is less reliable and could lead to a stripped axle.
Also, those nuts are designed to fail/strip before damaging the axle threads.
Back then, you bought a bike for life.
04-03-19, 02:47 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,572
Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed
Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1030 Post(s)
Liked 445 Times
in
288 Posts
Hercules Progress
Had a good day assembling/packing bearings etc.
All was going well until I realised I'd forgotten to attach this brake rod pivot piece...
It wasn't that big a deal. The BB was only finger tight.
As usual, I got ahead of myself.
Had a good day assembling/packing bearings etc.
All was going well until I realised I'd forgotten to attach this brake rod pivot piece...
It wasn't that big a deal. The BB was only finger tight.
As usual, I got ahead of myself.
04-03-19, 03:06 PM
Senior Member
Are the bulbs blown, we shall see!
Besides the lights, changed the grips, removed the bell and used a small leather saddlebag.
Added a bell, changed the bag, installed the original rack
Rolled out for a coffee run on my Twenty folder this morning. Calm before the homeschool day!
Late afternoon I installed the Miller light system I got from my buddy Ken. Is it too fancy for a scorcher, do you think? Testing it out tomorrow hopefully.
04-03-19, 03:20 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,572
Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed
Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1030 Post(s)
Liked 445 Times
in
288 Posts
Are the bulbs blown, we shall see!
Besides the lights, changed the grips, removed the bell and used a small leather saddlebag.
Added a bell, changed the bag, installed the original rack
Rolled out for a coffee run on my Twenty folder this morning. Calm before the homeschool day!
Late afternoon I installed the Miller light system I got from my buddy Ken. Is it too fancy for a scorcher, do you think? Testing it out tomorrow hopefully.
Perhaps there's a new term to use for an upgraded scorcher.
Scorcher Deluxe?
Great looking bike.
My only comment is to flatten out the trigger...
04-03-19, 03:30 PM
Senior Member
@gster
Will do, got put that way when I was installing the grips and moving things forward. Not sure I am happy with them.
A Scorcher Deluxe... possible!
Will do, got put that way when I was installing the grips and moving things forward. Not sure I am happy with them.
A Scorcher Deluxe... possible!
04-03-19, 03:44 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 733
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 213 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
5 Posts
Added a bell, changed the bag, installed the original rack
Rolled out for a coffee run on my Twenty folder this morning. Calm before the homeschool day!
Late afternoon I installed the Miller light system I got from my buddy Ken. Is it too fancy for a scorcher, do you think? Testing it out tomorrow hopefully.
I just picked up a raliegh 20 in a real sad state. I'm hoping to do some improvements on it. What kind of wheels do you have on yours?
04-03-19, 03:56 PM
Senior Member
Mine being an English market bike, it has the 451 sized 20”. The PO had new tires put on before he decided it just wasn’t for him.
Would love to see pics of your new R20. Is it a folder or shopper?
I really got lucky with this one, the condition was quite nice and I already had the good stuff to put on it. Other then reversing some previous mechanics’s fumbleing, it is in fine running order.
Would love to see pics of your new R20. Is it a folder or shopper?
I really got lucky with this one, the condition was quite nice and I already had the good stuff to put on it. Other then reversing some previous mechanics’s fumbleing, it is in fine running order.
04-03-19, 04:18 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 733
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 213 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
5 Posts
Mine being an English market bike, it has the 451 sized 20”. The PO had new tires put on before he decided it just wasn’t for him.
Would love to see pics of your new R20. Is it a folder or shopper?
I really got lucky with this one, the condition was quite nice and I already had the good stuff to put on it. Other then reversing some previous mechanics’s fumbleing, it is in fine running order.
Would love to see pics of your new R20. Is it a folder or shopper?
I really got lucky with this one, the condition was quite nice and I already had the good stuff to put on it. Other then reversing some previous mechanics’s fumbleing, it is in fine running order.
Mine is a single speed but the rims are pretty rusty. I'm considering having my 4 speed hub built into some new rims. If I like the ride of it I'll look into repainting. That is if cleaning the rust off the frame leaves anything to ride haha
Last edited by Buellster; 04-03-19 at 04:36 PM.
04-03-19, 04:35 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 733
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 213 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
5 Posts
Sad raliegh 20
@3speedslow
Heres my foldable 20.
Got it for 40 bucks, I've been wanting one and the price was right for something to try and customize and modify.
First order of business is too clean the rust off and see if anything is left to ride underneath haha
suggested for rust of this level?
Next order is tires, suggestions in a good source
SJS cycles seems to have some choices, the CR18s seem a good choice.
These are for kids bikes I think? Too weak I'm pretty sure, granted I only think that because they are 8 bucks and that seems too good to be true.
I'm also going to need to do some modification so it can fit me. At 6' 2 even all the way up the seat and bars aren't quite high enough.
Any suggestions on that?
The rust on the support joints is scary rough.
Heres my foldable 20.
Got it for 40 bucks, I've been wanting one and the price was right for something to try and customize and modify.
First order of business is too clean the rust off and see if anything is left to ride underneath haha
suggested for rust of this level?
Next order is tires, suggestions in a good source
SJS cycles seems to have some choices, the CR18s seem a good choice.
These are for kids bikes I think? Too weak I'm pretty sure, granted I only think that because they are 8 bucks and that seems too good to be true.
I'm also going to need to do some modification so it can fit me. At 6' 2 even all the way up the seat and bars aren't quite high enough.
Any suggestions on that?
The rust on the support joints is scary rough.
04-03-19, 04:35 PM
Senior Member
Still like to see pics when you can! Does your frame fold? Sounds like you have a shopper , maybe. Did it come with the mudguards, chaingaurd?
get it rideable before spending the bucks on it. So many possible outcomes for these little scamps. I choose to keep this one mostly original but some here have done wild mods to the Twenty. The aluminium rim change would be the first best upgrade if you plan on keeping it along with new brake pads.
Welcome to the R20 club. Great to see a new(er) member!
Edit: beat me to the download...
get it rideable before spending the bucks on it. So many possible outcomes for these little scamps. I choose to keep this one mostly original but some here have done wild mods to the Twenty. The aluminium rim change would be the first best upgrade if you plan on keeping it along with new brake pads.
Welcome to the R20 club. Great to see a new(er) member!
Edit: beat me to the download...
04-03-19, 04:57 PM
Senior Member
That frame needs a rust removal bath! OX or evaporust.
If at all possible, do a ride first.
04-03-19, 05:47 PM
Senior Member
@3speedslow
Heres my foldable 20.
Got it for 40 bucks, I've been wanting one and the price was right for something to try and customize and modify.
First order of business is too clean the rust off and see if anything is left to ride underneath haha
suggested for rust of this level?
Next order is tires, suggestions in a good source
SJS cycles seems to have some choices, the CR18s seem a good choice.
These are for kids bikes I think? Too weak I'm pretty sure, granted I only think that because they are 8 bucks and that seems too good to be true.
I'm also going to need to do some modification so it can fit me. At 6' 2 even all the way up the seat and bars aren't quite high enough.
Any suggestions on that?
The rust on the support joints is scary rough.
Heres my foldable 20.
Got it for 40 bucks, I've been wanting one and the price was right for something to try and customize and modify.
First order of business is too clean the rust off and see if anything is left to ride underneath haha
suggested for rust of this level?
Next order is tires, suggestions in a good source
SJS cycles seems to have some choices, the CR18s seem a good choice.
These are for kids bikes I think? Too weak I'm pretty sure, granted I only think that because they are 8 bucks and that seems too good to be true.
I'm also going to need to do some modification so it can fit me. At 6' 2 even all the way up the seat and bars aren't quite high enough.
Any suggestions on that?
The rust on the support joints is scary rough.
04-03-19, 07:59 PM
aka Tom Reingold
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Posts: 40,616
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
Mentioned: 513 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7403 Post(s)
Liked 2,584 Times
in
1,507 Posts
My Raleigh Twenty has disappeared from my basement! I'm annoyed but not completely upset. I hadn't worked on it in a long time.
@Salubrious, the axle nuts are made of soft material so that they will strip easily. This is by design so that you won't strip the axle, because replacing the axle is a big-ish job.
@Salubrious, the axle nuts are made of soft material so that they will strip easily. This is by design so that you won't strip the axle, because replacing the axle is a big-ish job.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
04-04-19, 05:33 AM
Bikes are okay, I guess.
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 6,938
Bikes: Waterford Paramount Touring, Giant CFM-2, Raleigh Sports 3-speeds in M23 & L23, Schwinn Cimarron oddball build, Marin Palisades Trail dropbar conversion, Nishiki Cresta GT
Mentioned: 69 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2647 Post(s)
Liked 2,452 Times
in
1,559 Posts
Pix aren't great and the price is too high, but it looks like a nice little CB 3-speed bike.
https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...855003412.html
bicycle frame material: steel
bicycle type: road
frame size: Medium
wheel size: other/unknown Vintage Raleigh 3 speed bicycle
Sturmey Archer 3 speed rear hub
Shifts through gears and brakes look good. Needs new inner tubes to be rideable and a good cleaning.
Brooks saddle
Overall great shape for its age, just needs someone to love it
$200
Call or text 804-221-six nine four three
https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...855003412.html
1974? Raleigh 3 speed ladies bicycle - $200 (The fan)
bicycle frame material: steel
bicycle type: road
frame size: Medium
wheel size: other/unknown Vintage Raleigh 3 speed bicycle
Sturmey Archer 3 speed rear hub
Shifts through gears and brakes look good. Needs new inner tubes to be rideable and a good cleaning.
Brooks saddle
Overall great shape for its age, just needs someone to love it
$200
Call or text 804-221-six nine four three
04-04-19, 05:54 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 660
Bikes: 1983 Trek 600, 1972 Raleigh Sports Step Thru, 1963 Rudge Sports, 2007 Dahon MuP8, Dahon Speed, Public Mixte 8-speed IGH, mid-70s Peugeot Mixte AW conversion, Riv Platypus
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 350 Post(s)
Liked 24 Times
in
17 Posts
Pix aren't great and the price is too high, but it looks like a nice little CB 3-speed bike.
https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...855003412.html
https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...855003412.html
1974? Raleigh 3 speed ladies bicycle - $200 (The fan)
04-04-19, 05:57 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 660
Bikes: 1983 Trek 600, 1972 Raleigh Sports Step Thru, 1963 Rudge Sports, 2007 Dahon MuP8, Dahon Speed, Public Mixte 8-speed IGH, mid-70s Peugeot Mixte AW conversion, Riv Platypus
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 350 Post(s)
Liked 24 Times
in
17 Posts
@Salubrious, the axle nuts are made of soft material so that they will strip easily. This is by design so that you won't strip the axle, because replacing the axle is a big-ish job.
04-04-19, 06:52 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 660
Bikes: 1983 Trek 600, 1972 Raleigh Sports Step Thru, 1963 Rudge Sports, 2007 Dahon MuP8, Dahon Speed, Public Mixte 8-speed IGH, mid-70s Peugeot Mixte AW conversion, Riv Platypus
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 350 Post(s)
Liked 24 Times
in
17 Posts
Squeaking from the BB of my Sports step-thru so yesterday with the aid of a borrowed cotter press I opened it up to do an overhaul and what a mess. The crank-side bearing retainer was in pieces. All cleaned, the inside of the fixed cup looks like crumpled aluminum foil. Spindle not so hot either on both sides. I slathered on as much grease as I could get in there and put it back together. It's a little rough (surprise!) but will do I guess. Not exactly a high performance machine. But I'll have to start thinking about getting the new parts to make it right, eventually. Funny my Rudge needs a new spindle, too. But that's because the flat for the left-side cotter is worn down, or some vandal filed it, perhaps.
04-04-19, 07:51 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,572
Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed
Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1030 Post(s)
Liked 445 Times
in
288 Posts
Squeaking from the BB of my Sports step-thru so yesterday with the aid of a borrowed cotter press I opened it up to do an overhaul and what a mess. The crank-side bearing retainer was in pieces. All cleaned, the inside of the fixed cup looks like crumpled aluminum foil. Spindle not so hot either on both sides. I slathered on as much grease as I could get in there and put it back together. It's a little rough (surprise!) but will do I guess. Not exactly a high performance machine. But I'll have to start thinking about getting the new parts to make it right, eventually. Funny my Rudge needs a new spindle, too. But that's because the flat for the left-side cotter is worn down, or some vandal filed it, perhaps.
As far as I know, Raleigh never used caged bearings.
Considering that this Hercules is 89 years old, the BB was
in very good shape.
If I had a front wheel for it, it could be back on the road this weekend.
04-04-19, 07:56 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 660
Bikes: 1983 Trek 600, 1972 Raleigh Sports Step Thru, 1963 Rudge Sports, 2007 Dahon MuP8, Dahon Speed, Public Mixte 8-speed IGH, mid-70s Peugeot Mixte AW conversion, Riv Platypus
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 350 Post(s)
Liked 24 Times
in
17 Posts
04-04-19, 08:40 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,572
Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed
Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1030 Post(s)
Liked 445 Times
in
288 Posts
This Tourist had caged bearings. But I doubt it came from the
factory that way.
Just watched this and I can't believe that he re assembled the BB
with the plastic cages....
Yeah, there's some bad "mechanics" out there.
In my search for a 28 x 1 1/2 rim, I stopped into a bike
shop down the street.
One of the older "mechanics" said with authority that
"That rim doesn't exist".
I pointed out that I had 7 of them at home and that
there were probably at least 20 million of them
out there.