Immersive waxing / it should be more popular
#926
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Something to lift the chain so it does not touch the bottom is a must IMO. A mesh grill is perfect for this. I find that a 1/4'' gap is perfect.
Once it hardens back, you can remove the wax puck from the pot and remove the bottom part where all the dirt and grime is stuck with a knife or something sharp.
Once it hardens back, you can remove the wax puck from the pot and remove the bottom part where all the dirt and grime is stuck with a knife or something sharp.
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#927
I turn the heat on and when the wax loosens from the walls of the container I dump it out and scrape off the bottom 1/8" or so. Then throw it back in and continue. But I like the strainer idea. Seems it might be a tad awkward with my little pot and do you leave it in the wax or not when you're finished?
I thought it was time to toss the whole wax block, but it clear what to do.
This also got me thinking that what we really need is a BikeForums "hot wax tips and tricks" thread to share great ideas such as this.
#928
Senior Member
I guess I'm wondering if this is even something I should worry about. I've been using this same wax block since the beginning of the cycling season, so maybe 7-8 rewaxings? I'm sure there's some gunk in there, but also the end result still seems the same, which is a pretty clean looking chain and drivetrain.
Maybe this layer of gunk is more obvious if you're using white/clear paraffin wax?
#930
This in fact was pure white paraffin canning wax when I started at the beginning of the season. No additives.
This was after a particularly challenging off-road ride through moon-dust contaminated with forest fire ash. In 20 miles, my chain went from being silent to making horrific noise. Same with my wife's chain. Now that I think about this, it is probably time to toss the whole block of wax.
This was after a particularly challenging off-road ride through moon-dust contaminated with forest fire ash. In 20 miles, my chain went from being silent to making horrific noise. Same with my wife's chain. Now that I think about this, it is probably time to toss the whole block of wax.
#931
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One year and nearly 1000 posts later, and I doubt immersive waxing has become any more popular ...
#932
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I'm curious what kind of wax you are both using? I'm using Silca secret blend, which is dark grey in color and has some additives in it (nano-scale tungsten disulfide). When I removed the entire block of hard wax and looked at the bottom, it didn't look that different than the rest of the wax. It's all dark in color. Even scraping some of the block off, it's not clear if the bottom of the block is actually dirty or not.
I guess I'm wondering if this is even something I should worry about. I've been using this same wax block since the beginning of the cycling season, so maybe 7-8 rewaxings? I'm sure there's some gunk in there, but also the end result still seems the same, which is a pretty clean looking chain and drivetrain.
Maybe this layer of gunk is more obvious if you're using white/clear paraffin wax?
I guess I'm wondering if this is even something I should worry about. I've been using this same wax block since the beginning of the cycling season, so maybe 7-8 rewaxings? I'm sure there's some gunk in there, but also the end result still seems the same, which is a pretty clean looking chain and drivetrain.
Maybe this layer of gunk is more obvious if you're using white/clear paraffin wax?
Last edited by eduskator; 09-12-23 at 02:14 PM.
#933
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#934
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#936
Just Pedaling
I'm curious what kind of wax you are both using? I'm using Silca secret blend, which is dark grey in color and has some additives in it (nano-scale tungsten disulfide). When I removed the entire block of hard wax and looked at the bottom, it didn't look that different than the rest of the wax. It's all dark in color. Even scraping some of the block off, it's not clear if the bottom of the block is actually dirty or not.
I guess I'm wondering if this is even something I should worry about. I've been using this same wax block since the beginning of the cycling season, so maybe 7-8 rewaxings? I'm sure there's some gunk in there, but also the end result still seems the same, which is a pretty clean looking chain and drivetrain.
Maybe this layer of gunk is more obvious if you're using white/clear paraffin wax?
I guess I'm wondering if this is even something I should worry about. I've been using this same wax block since the beginning of the cycling season, so maybe 7-8 rewaxings? I'm sure there's some gunk in there, but also the end result still seems the same, which is a pretty clean looking chain and drivetrain.
Maybe this layer of gunk is more obvious if you're using white/clear paraffin wax?
#937
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Yeah. The big brand's response to the ''waxing trend'' was to develop its own lineup of wax blends. This tells a lot. Still, I wouldn't be paying 40$ for a bag of wax pellet when I can buy the same thing under 10$. Once you know, you know.
#938
Firm but gentle
I recently went on a little tour, 8 days and about 400 miles on pavement and 100 miles on dry gravel in the Mt. Hood and Mt. Jefferson area. No rain, one hour of wet pavement. This picture is the chain as it came off on its way to the crock pot of delicious Silca Secret Sauce. I had to use the Wend product almost every day. It was the most rudimentary and quick application, once the wax wore off the drip on stuff wasn't nearly as durable and long lasting, but it seemed to be very effective. The Wend looks like slightly thickened milk when it goes on. The instructions say to keep the top closed and store at room temperatures.
#939
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You may well be correct, but count me as one of the happy and enthusiastic immersive waxing converts. I am mildly obsessive about keeping drivetrains clean, and the effort to wax seems well worth it to me.
I recently went on a little tour, 8 days and about 400 miles on pavement and 100 miles on dry gravel in the Mt. Hood and Mt. Jefferson area. No rain, one hour of wet pavement. This picture is the chain as it came off on its way to the crock pot of delicious Silca Secret Sauce. I had to use the Wend product almost every day. It was the most rudimentary and quick application, once the wax wore off the drip on stuff wasn't nearly as durable and long lasting, but it seemed to be very effective. The Wend looks like slightly thickened milk when it goes on. The instructions say to keep the top closed and store at room temperatures.
I recently went on a little tour, 8 days and about 400 miles on pavement and 100 miles on dry gravel in the Mt. Hood and Mt. Jefferson area. No rain, one hour of wet pavement. This picture is the chain as it came off on its way to the crock pot of delicious Silca Secret Sauce. I had to use the Wend product almost every day. It was the most rudimentary and quick application, once the wax wore off the drip on stuff wasn't nearly as durable and long lasting, but it seemed to be very effective. The Wend looks like slightly thickened milk when it goes on. The instructions say to keep the top closed and store at room temperatures.
#940
Firm but gentle
Yes, the Wend was applied almost every day. It may have been a little over done on my part. I have a bag of the Silca pellets and that is my first and only hot wax product. Fun Fact: Owl poops are called pellets.
#941
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Does that mean you cast the Silca pellets into a crock pot?
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#943
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This in fact was pure white paraffin canning wax when I started at the beginning of the season. No additives.
This was after a particularly challenging off-road ride through moon-dust contaminated with forest fire ash. In 20 miles, my chain went from being silent to making horrific noise. Same with my wife's chain. Now that I think about this, it is probably time to toss the whole block of wax.
This was after a particularly challenging off-road ride through moon-dust contaminated with forest fire ash. In 20 miles, my chain went from being silent to making horrific noise. Same with my wife's chain. Now that I think about this, it is probably time to toss the whole block of wax.
#944
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I don't think wax is a good choice for off-road applications. Too much water and dirt; gonna switch back to wet lube for my MTB. For dry weather road? The best.
I'm also gonna drop in here (again) as a counter example of how simple waxing can be. Many people here are going way overboard compared to what I would tolerate.
I do clean chains once - when they are new. Overnight soak in degreaser with a shake here and there. After that? Nothing - into the wax every few weeks (or months). Sometimes I don't even bother wiping it off, and just let it drip a bit. I don't clean the drivetrain or the pot at all except when it's time for a new block of wax. Sure, there is some grime at the bottom of the pot and on my chain, but it is dry. I can still grab it with my bare hand on the side of the road no problem, and it doesn't leave marks when it touches legs or clothing.
I'm also gonna drop in here (again) as a counter example of how simple waxing can be. Many people here are going way overboard compared to what I would tolerate.
I do clean chains once - when they are new. Overnight soak in degreaser with a shake here and there. After that? Nothing - into the wax every few weeks (or months). Sometimes I don't even bother wiping it off, and just let it drip a bit. I don't clean the drivetrain or the pot at all except when it's time for a new block of wax. Sure, there is some grime at the bottom of the pot and on my chain, but it is dry. I can still grab it with my bare hand on the side of the road no problem, and it doesn't leave marks when it touches legs or clothing.
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#945
Senior Member
I don't think wax is a good choice for off-road applications. Too much water and dirt; gonna switch back to wet lube for my MTB. For dry weather road? The best.
I'm also gonna drop in here (again) as a counter example of how simple waxing can be. Many people here are going way overboard compared to what I would tolerate.
I do clean chains once - when they are new. Overnight soak in degreaser with a shake here and there. After that? Nothing - into the wax every few weeks (or months). Sometimes I don't even bother wiping it off, and just let it drip a bit. I don't clean the drivetrain or the pot at all except when it's time for a new block of wax. Sure, there is some grime at the bottom of the pot and on my chain, but it is dry. I can still grab it with my bare hand on the side of the road no problem, and it doesn't leave marks when it touches legs or clothing.
I'm also gonna drop in here (again) as a counter example of how simple waxing can be. Many people here are going way overboard compared to what I would tolerate.
I do clean chains once - when they are new. Overnight soak in degreaser with a shake here and there. After that? Nothing - into the wax every few weeks (or months). Sometimes I don't even bother wiping it off, and just let it drip a bit. I don't clean the drivetrain or the pot at all except when it's time for a new block of wax. Sure, there is some grime at the bottom of the pot and on my chain, but it is dry. I can still grab it with my bare hand on the side of the road no problem, and it doesn't leave marks when it touches legs or clothing.
I ordered a mini-strainer because it was just a few bucks and seems like it might be easier to use than threading the chain onto an old coat hanger, but I'm skeptical that this will really keep the chain any cleaner by keeping it "above the gunk". I'm still going to need to stir the chain around in the pot a bit to get it coated, and this seems like it would just stir up whatever gunk is on the bottom anyway.
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#946
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one "mod" I've done for the process is to place a strong earth magnet below the perforated pan [drilled speed holes into an old aluminum egg frying pan] . It's attracted some particles, so it wasn't a wasted added effort.
I have a few 9100 & 8100 series chains, which prompted a thought/theory.
Being that one has hollow pins & the other has solid pins, that thought/theory is that the hollow pins encapsulates some of the wax & if that wax happens to dislodge at some point it can "feed" or fling it whereabouts onto a moving part.... or just fling it like a snot rocket.
The other thought is that it might do nothing & just add weight (if it matters to anyone) nulling the point of having hollow pins (again, if weight matters) .
Deep thoughts, by a random cyclists.
I have a few 9100 & 8100 series chains, which prompted a thought/theory.
Being that one has hollow pins & the other has solid pins, that thought/theory is that the hollow pins encapsulates some of the wax & if that wax happens to dislodge at some point it can "feed" or fling it whereabouts onto a moving part.... or just fling it like a snot rocket.
The other thought is that it might do nothing & just add weight (if it matters to anyone) nulling the point of having hollow pins (again, if weight matters) .
Deep thoughts, by a random cyclists.
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#947
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Good ole speed holes. They make everything better/faster.
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#948
Senior Member
I have three different paraffins (without additives) and they all behave pretty differently from one another.
While that 10 $ is going to work just fine, it's not the same as the 40 $ stuff. The difference is how long the stuff lasts and how long it lubricates.
And with the topic of lubrication comes additives. Silca uses tungsten disulfide which is a pretty good metal on metal lubrication powder. That'll decrease friction and increases how long the wax lasts in the dry.
Molten speedwax used to use molybdenym disulfide which isn't quite as good as tungsten. Not sure what they use these days.
Rex uses something proprietary which combined with a wax mix of paraffins and other stuff gives pretty amazing dry duration results (almost 900 miles per application).
I'm not convinced however that the additives increase wet duration and may actually decrease it as the friction modifier powders may make it easier for the wax to slough off the metal on the chain.
#949
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Well, even though Silca uses paraffin pellets, there are a lot of different types of paraffin waxes. It's a pretty big umbrella term for a category of waxes. The oil content is not the only deciding factor. Then there are microcrystalline waxes some chain wax brands also use and those are even more diverse than paraffins.
I have three different paraffins (without additives) and they all behave pretty differently from one another.
While that 10 $ is going to work just fine, it's not the same as the 40 $ stuff. The difference is how long the stuff lasts and how long it lubricates.
And with the topic of lubrication comes additives. Silca uses tungsten disulfide which is a pretty good metal on metal lubrication powder. That'll decrease friction and increases how long the wax lasts in the dry.
Molten speedwax used to use molybdenym disulfide which isn't quite as good as tungsten. Not sure what they use these days.
Rex uses something proprietary which combined with a wax mix of paraffins and other stuff gives pretty amazing dry duration results (almost 900 miles per application).
I'm not convinced however that the additives increase wet duration and may actually decrease it as the friction modifier powders may make it easier for the wax to slough off the metal on the chain.
I have three different paraffins (without additives) and they all behave pretty differently from one another.
While that 10 $ is going to work just fine, it's not the same as the 40 $ stuff. The difference is how long the stuff lasts and how long it lubricates.
And with the topic of lubrication comes additives. Silca uses tungsten disulfide which is a pretty good metal on metal lubrication powder. That'll decrease friction and increases how long the wax lasts in the dry.
Molten speedwax used to use molybdenym disulfide which isn't quite as good as tungsten. Not sure what they use these days.
Rex uses something proprietary which combined with a wax mix of paraffins and other stuff gives pretty amazing dry duration results (almost 900 miles per application).
I'm not convinced however that the additives increase wet duration and may actually decrease it as the friction modifier powders may make it easier for the wax to slough off the metal on the chain.
I'm a big OZ Cycle fan and he made several comparison of his own blend VS the big brands. His home maid paraffin & PTFE mix was the most efficient one. I know it isn't an undeniable scientific proof, but I trust him.
#950
should be more popular
Thread Starter
Maybe it is just a personality thing. We should create a quick aptitude test to see whether one is the wax type. Maybe it could be on a tablet in every bike shop at the lubricant section. Or a more low tech version to keep costs down, could look like this:
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