How tall are you and what frame size do you ride?
#151
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If you have a short inseam it would seem you would have a long reach. And, if you really ride a 48-50 frame I'm guessing you would need a long stem, I'm thinking very long, to accommodate your reach. No?
#152
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Look at my setup in the pic above (the red Fog Cutter). I am running a 60-70mm stem (I forget which) and short reach bars. If I went to a larger size frame I would need a 50mm stem.
I know why you are thinking the way you are about this (short legs + long torso = long reach), and I did so as well for a long time. It is a common assumption which is correct more often than not, but not always. As I learned through my fitting, there is more to fit than height and leg to torso ratio. I can’t explain why the stack/reach number I use work better for me… they just do.
As I said earlier, I used to ride 52-54cm bikes because that is what someone my height “should” ride. Turns out I (and conventional wisdom) were wrong. This current setup fits me much, much better. And luckily I am not bothered by what the fashion police think.
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#153
Full Member
6ft. I ride a Large Defy and my spare bike is a M/L Contend. Large seems perfect, but the M/L feels pretty darn good also. I put a slightly longer stem on the Contend.
#154
Full Member
5'6" with a 29" inseam.
According to the Trek bike sizing chart I should ride a "Double check your measurements", ha!
I ride a size 'S' on my Cannondale Topstone, but otherwise would need about a 51 or 52, depending for my road bikes.
Size M for the Co-Op DRT 1.2, in the past I've been most comfortable on a 17" MTB frame.
My Stevens is a 56cm and it was too big. Have since passed it on to the spawn. He's 5'10"-ish with a 34" inseam. Only gone on one ride so far for him, and it may be a *hair* cramped. If so it may be going back to my cousin that gave it to us.
According to the Trek bike sizing chart I should ride a "Double check your measurements", ha!
I ride a size 'S' on my Cannondale Topstone, but otherwise would need about a 51 or 52, depending for my road bikes.
Size M for the Co-Op DRT 1.2, in the past I've been most comfortable on a 17" MTB frame.
My Stevens is a 56cm and it was too big. Have since passed it on to the spawn. He's 5'10"-ish with a 34" inseam. Only gone on one ride so far for him, and it may be a *hair* cramped. If so it may be going back to my cousin that gave it to us.
#155
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5'8" and 21.5", 54cm and Medium all work for me!
#156
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6'5
Road bikes with 635mm - 655mm of stack height and 390mm-410mm of reach are what I own. Stem height and length as well as bar geometry can get me to ideal once I have a frame in those ranges.
Ideal fit is 650mm stack with 405mm of reach.
This fits best.
Road bikes with 635mm - 655mm of stack height and 390mm-410mm of reach are what I own. Stem height and length as well as bar geometry can get me to ideal once I have a frame in those ranges.
Ideal fit is 650mm stack with 405mm of reach.
This fits best.
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#157
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A friend of mine is 6'9" (ex-basketball player of course) I'll have to show him this photo.
#163
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I (was) 6'3" and have ridden bikes between 56-61cm. Since my amputation I tend towards a bit smaller bike than what might be ideal so that I can readily reach the ground without top bar in the goods. I tend to look for a geometry that is lower top tube height but longer reach. My current bikes are 58 and XL
#164
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All a bit different from each other, but all are stunners.
#166
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#167
Junior Member
tall enough
the size that fits
the size that fits
#168
Junior Member
ciclistas que medem de 1,60 m a 1,70 m geralmente os quadros ficam entre 50 a 53 cm.
Despite all this information, is it still difficult to choose the frame size? A practical tip is to ride on a friend's bike that has a frame the size you intend to buy. In general, smaller frames are lighter and more agile and larger ones are more stable and comfortable.
When evaluating measurements, manufacturers usually quote the vertical pipe measurement first and then the horizontal pipe measurement. When there is only one measurement, it is understood that the two tubes are the same size (square frame).
In the case of sloping frames, the slope must be neglected. You can measure with the tape measure parallel to the floor.
A very important measurement in relation to the frame is the height. The length can be adjusted by changing the table. There are table options from 7 to 14 cm, with gradations from 0.5 to 0.5 cm.
For MTBs, there's a nifty rule you can use: measure your horse's height, convert to inches and subtract 14.
For example, if your horse measures 83 cm, that means 32.67 inches. Subtracting 14 (32.67-14) gives you 18.67 inches. So the ideal frame would be 18.5 inches.
Although it sounds like a lot of information, remember that choosing the ideal frame size is very important, as this is the most difficult component to change on a bike. And don't forget that the other items on your bike must be compatible with your frame size, such as wheels and fork.
Despite all this information, is it still difficult to choose the frame size? A practical tip is to ride on a friend's bike that has a frame the size you intend to buy. In general, smaller frames are lighter and more agile and larger ones are more stable and comfortable.
When evaluating measurements, manufacturers usually quote the vertical pipe measurement first and then the horizontal pipe measurement. When there is only one measurement, it is understood that the two tubes are the same size (square frame).
In the case of sloping frames, the slope must be neglected. You can measure with the tape measure parallel to the floor.
A very important measurement in relation to the frame is the height. The length can be adjusted by changing the table. There are table options from 7 to 14 cm, with gradations from 0.5 to 0.5 cm.
For MTBs, there's a nifty rule you can use: measure your horse's height, convert to inches and subtract 14.
For example, if your horse measures 83 cm, that means 32.67 inches. Subtracting 14 (32.67-14) gives you 18.67 inches. So the ideal frame would be 18.5 inches.
Although it sounds like a lot of information, remember that choosing the ideal frame size is very important, as this is the most difficult component to change on a bike. And don't forget that the other items on your bike must be compatible with your frame size, such as wheels and fork.
#169
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#172
Banned
It varies greatly depending on the frame geometry. Bike frames in the 1970's had the geometry of a criterium race bike and guys had very long seat posts and handlebar stems to compensate. Very unformfortable for riding any distance. In the 1980's the advent of triathalons generated more interest in what today we would call relaxed geometry as typified by the Dave Scott bikes. For distance riding I do not want to be bunched up on the bike but want my torso to be straight and relaxed and have the front bars within reach without being at a tight angle with my chest. For touring I had a custom frame made to my specifications and it was a 59cm frame but with far from stock angles using custom made lugs.
Check the bike sizing and seat adjustment charts that show how your body should be positioned on the frame, and if need be get on a bike and have someone take pictures with your phone so you can see your shape while on the bike.
Check the bike sizing and seat adjustment charts that show how your body should be positioned on the frame, and if need be get on a bike and have someone take pictures with your phone so you can see your shape while on the bike.
#173
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193 cm tall. I ride anything from 59-64cm (ctc), My favorite bikes have stack around ~63 +/- and reach around 40 +/-
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#174
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5'8" and ride 55cm road bikes and 18 inch mountain bikes.
#175
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6'4" with a 36.25" cycling inseam. My bike is 60 cm top tube, 60 cm seat tube (ctc) with a 12 cm stem.