pwarsknightsp

I use my bike to travel to work but I am looking into using it as my main transportation across the city. I just need to invest into a good u-lock. I live in Philadelphia and usually read or hear of some type of bike theft, so I'm pretty concerned. Since both of my wheels are QR, how should I lock up my bike? I was thinking of taking the front wheel off and locking it with the back wheel and rear triangle of the bike, using a good u-lock. Is this a good method? But say if the u-lock is slightly to short to lock onto an object after locking my wheels and frame, should I use another u-lock to lock the top tube to the (for example) bike rack? I have also read that the mini u-locks are best, so should I use it on the top tube of the bike and use a regular u-lock for the rear (since the front+back wheel will take up most of the space of a regular u-lock)?

Sorry for all the questions and Thanks in advance for any tips/advice.

irclean

You could potentially receive many suggestions by opening this Pandora's Box. Here is but one: Use this strategy with this lock and replace your QRs with these. Good luck and ride safe!

pancake4life

New york faggitaboutit

https://www.warehousedeals.com/Krypto...B000OZ9VLU.htm

yarb

If the wheels are worth a tinker's damn, get rid of the QR. Less hassle in the long run than taking the front off every time. Then use a good U-lock through front and frame, with a chain through the U and rear wheel. And try to lock in a sensible location.

3bikes

This is how I lock up. Kryptonite Evolution Mini (flat key), a 4' Kryptonite loop end cable, a 3' light guage Kryptonite loop end cable: I use the large loop end cable to secure both the front and rear wheels to the U-lock that I use on the down tube to a parking meter size post, the light gauge loop end cable secures my Brooks saddle to the heavy loop end cable below. So.... Frame u-locked, wheels & seat cabled to the u-lock.

Perhaps there is an easier to steal bike on the next rack. I don't think anyone's bike is safe from theft, but we can make it a pain in the ass for the thief.

I can't do the front wheel removal thing with my commuter... I have a generator hub and fenders. Removing the front wheel each time is not practical for my style bike. But I used to do that with my old bike... it was easy and quick.

-3bikes

pwarsknightsp

I was thinking of replacing my QRs, but isn't the key for locking skewers the same among all from the same brand? So this would mean someone else could possibly have the same key? If the pitlock locking skewers that irclean recommended aren't like this, I'm definitely getting one. And is the best location to lock through the front or back, since the rear wheel is worth more than the front? I did read sheldon brown's locking strategy beforehand, but I can't help myself to trust any cable lock.
Thanks again

ezdoesit

Try this out and see if it helps you.
https://www.streetfilms.org/hal-grade...final-warning/

irclean

Regarding the Pitlocks; there are 256 different keys that they make. The chances that any thief (or anyone else, for that matter) would have your key is highly unlikely. In fact I would estimate the chances to be about 1 in 256. The Pitlock system seems far superior to any other type of locking skewers that I've ever heard of. They also offer a lock for your headset cap, securing your fork. Combining that with a skewer on the front wheel precludes the use of another u-lock or cable to protect the front end of your bike. The seat post clamp bolt offers an extra measure of protection.

darkadious

i don't see a point in locking the chain through the u besides the chain having something other than the bike to lean on.

Stryver

I use one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Yor.../dp/B000LPEXBQ

It loops trough both tires and frame, and secures and on-guard seat leash.

Rear wheel is bolted on, front is QR. When I run errands where the bike is left outside in populated places for short times, I will use a cable lock instead of hauling that 10 pound monstrosity around.

teamontherun

I use a Kryptonite 1217 New York chain with EV 4 lock. Its just about 14 lbs but fits through the frame and both wheels while they are still attached to the bike which saves me time from not taking the front wheel off. Also I lock up to wider things like light poles etc. so a Ulock is not practical. Just my .02

mechBgon

Here's some additional ideas to consider: https://www.mechbgon.com/lock

As I mentioned there, if there's just one main destination where you'll need top-notch security, such as at work or at the train station, then you might be able to lock your heavy, top-of-the-line lock there by itself, maybe in an out-of-the-way place where it's out of the weather. That way, you don't have to haul it everywhere. And if you can find two well-anchored objects that are 1m apart, you can lock rear wheel & frame with one lock, front wheel & frame with the other, to two separate objects.

Bonus points if you lock to something inherently dangerous (gas main, electrical main) or that is not round (so a pipe cutter can't be used to cut what you've locked your bike to).

Personally, if I'm stopping at the store to buy groceries, where it's well-lit, well-travelled, and I'm only there for 10-15 minutes, I'll take just my lighter-duty U-lock and a cable for the front wheel. If I'll be leaving the bike for an hour, out comes the 8-pound long-shackle ML18 (a Kryptonite NY-F in long-shackle form). If I were going to lock there every day for 8 hours, predictably, then I'd go with the double-lock setup and combine my ML18 with a second serious lock.

waynesworld

That guy is hilarious!

AndrewP

Use 2 different types of locks since they require different too;s for breaking . A hardened-toughened chain is more secure than a cable. Keep ;ocks at all the places you will lock your bike. 12 keys are lighter than 1 lock.

pwarsknightsp

Thanks for all the advice! Well after watching the video that ezdoesit recommended, I am now slightly uncertain which route I should take in locking my bike.
-First idea of locking now is by purchasing the pitlock set irclean recommended and using the Kryp. NY Fahgett. Mini U-lock to lock the back wheel through the triangle and onto an object; also seeing as though the front wheel wouldn't need an cable/chain due to the pitlock skewers. But after looking at the measurements for the mini u-lock, is there enough space after putting it through the rear triangle and wheel?
-Second idea would be to use allen bolts on the wheels and use a combination between that heavy Kryp. chain and the mini u-lock. But this would be allot heavier and more expensive then the first method...
Any suggestions?
Sorry for all the questions, and Thanks in advance

akohekohe

Well, another alternative entirely is to check out the folding bike forum. For around town riding these are great, many take less time to fold that it will take you to securely lock your bike and they can fit in a bag you can carry into wherever you are going. They'll have to mug you to steal your bike. Yeah, this is more money than buying a U lock but even if they don't steal your bike they can still trash it just for fun so the folder could be less expensive in the long run.

exile

I've heard parts of Philly can be rough. Look into a good lock like the Fughedaboudit (sp?) and a different type of lock (chain or cable) as well. I bought my LHT from Trophy Bikes in Philly so stop by and see what they may recommend as well. Also the locking skewers are a good idea. Also, try not to be predictable in where and when you lock up your bike.

CornyBum

I got the Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit� Mini U-lock for all the great reviews it received. Unfortunately, the smaller size does make it inconvenient. I would have liked the lock to contain the rear wheel and seat tube but didn't find this an option, especially considering that I'd need room to fit the fixed object I'm locking the bike too. Thankfully, Sheldon Brown's locking strategy makes sense and frees up space. However, even using that strategy limits your options. Fortunately, I've been able to use Sheldon Brown's locking strategy and still barely fit local bike racks' tubings inside the lock. In one instance when there was no bike rack available, I found that a standard traffic sign post fits within the mini U-lock using Sheldon Brown's strategy. It really does show its limits, though. Then again, pushing the mini U-lock's boundaries with what its shackle can fit maximizes the security benefits of the smaller design. You'll probably get by with it and find some improvised way to make it work on some available fixed object. As for myself, I got the Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit� 1415 5-foot Chain Lock as well to leave myself a heavier but more flexible alternative. This thread has helped me out too, and I'm considering getting those Pitlock skewers in the future.

smoothshady

Has anyone checked out the Bike Registy estore, https://www.bikeregistry.com/estore/index.php ? Their chain lock looks pretty solid and the ABUS lock is nice, it doesnt have any room for the shackle to be attacked. I don't know if it would stack up to the NY chain but it's only $35, and probably as much of a deterrent. They also have a locking skewer set and saddle leash for about $3 each. It doesn't look like the skewers are really locking though, probably just not the standard 15mm lug that most thieves would be prepared for. If I didnt just buy a krypto evo u lock, I would have bought that chain.

crawdaddio

https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...om+a+locksmith

weavers

love the tip about the saddle leash. just went on the site and i am sold. bought the leash, skewers(just an extra step when changing a flat), reflective tape and the fake cracks decale(might as well right). it was all just 11bucks. that stuff is insanely cheap.