RoboIsGod

Hey all, I'm looking for a 1" carbon fork for my 1990 Miyata 1400A. Currently I'm riding it with the stock aluminum fork (the whole bike is alum. fyi) and would like to replace it. I've considered steel, but the bike is quite light to me (I'm used to riding steel) and would like to see how light I can keep it. I've seen the Ritchey fork, looks pretty decent, but would like to see what else is out there.

Thanks

Edit: Oh, and preferably the fork would be curved (not straight blade) to keep with the original look of the bike.

kergin

Ec90sl

merlinextraligh

New fork, new headset, new stem = not worth it.

Ride it as is. If you're not stisfied with that, save your moeny for a new bike.

Putting a bunch of money into a 20 year old bonded aluminum frame is not a great idea.

ADSR

Kinesis makes some reasonably priced carbon forks.

Carbon Unit

A few years ago I bought a discontinued 1" Alpha Q (True Temper) fork from Alpha Q for $100.00. I had the bike for a year and sold it. Never had a problem with the fork. You might call True Temper.

Midwest Ullrich

I recently bought a like-new condition Krestel 1 inch threaded EMC fork on Ebay. Less than $40. I have seen quite a few of those on Craiglook for around $50. Honestly, it doesn't save a whole lot of weight compared to my old aluminum fork; it does however improve the ride quality quite noticeably. The bike is less "chattered" when going over bumps.
Nashbar's one is ~$70 when it is on sale.

TalkNormal

excuse my noobishness, but why would he need a new headset and stem? (was thinking about doing this with one of my bikes and thought i could just swap the fork out so long as the replacement carbon one was 1", long enough, and threaded.. but what do i know...)

thirdgenbird

ive got one of those laying around...

most carbon forks are not made to be threaded. you will probably need a threadless headset and stem. (possibly handlebars or shims as well)

operator

Good luck finding a 1" carbon threaded fork.

Waste of time and effort to retrofit 1" with a carbon fork worth more than a pile of poo.

Motobetird

I just went to a 1" threaded carbon fork. The new ritchey doesn't work b/c the aluminum steerer tube is not thick enough. Search ebay for something with a steel steerer tube. Measure your head tube. Find out your headset stack height. Add the 2 together and make sure you buy a fork with enough steerer tube. If you need to cut/thread it find fbny, he hangs out in the mechanic forum. He does the job right and for a very reasonable fee. Don't worry about whether your headset is jis or Isis.

Motobetird

Also, a word of advice, be very careful who threads your fork, I had a bike shop ruin my nice serrota f1 fork.

infinitemass

Nashbar has threaded 1" carbon forks. I`ve got one on my old Trek 2100.

Squirrelli

BikeIsland has a Kinesis threaded carbon fork for $75.

https://bikeisland.com/cgi-bin/BKTK_S...ils&ProdID=904

kaliayev

Priceless. In one thread we have people defending the purchase of $2600 wheels and another were someone is getting ripped for wanting to spend a hundred or less for a fork. If you like the bike do it. I recently put a carbon fork on my 92 Trek 1200 and like it very much. Also nothing wrong with my bonded aluminum frame, rides very nice thank you.

canam73

Here's the nashbar fork:

https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...7_10000_200456

RoboIsGod

Thanks for the recommendations. I see some are discouraging getting a new fork/headset/stem set up, which was my initial plan. I figure I could upgrade the bike I have now and then eventually buy a frame and switch over most/some of the parts.

If I did go with a threadless fork, what are some good 1" threadless headsets? Also, I'm assuming I would need one of those adaptor dealy's so I could run a modern stem - any suggestions on those?

Thanks.

sintesi

Campy makes a 1-inch Record threadless headset. Deda Newton 26 might be your solution for a stem. Both are still available.

kaliayev

You can pick up a stem adapter at your LBS for around $15. Nitto makes a really nice one, but more expensive. I got a Ritchey Logic headset and it works just fine. Outside Outfitters has them on sale for $16.99, in black or silver. The also have a Profile Design stem adapter for $11.99 or the Nitto for $37.99.

kaliayev

If you want a threadless headset Cane Creek S2 for $39.99 at Jenson or Tree Fort. You will need a shim with the threadless, they run around around $6.

merlinextraligh

there's not an inconsistency. I'm not trying to dissaude the OP from sepnding money on cycling. I am trying to dissaude him from spending money inefficeintly.

To save any weight and really be much of an upgrade, he needs a threadless steerer, new headset and stem. The money he could realize selling his current bike on CL, and not spent on the upgrade would buy a nicer used bike with a CF steerer, and a more modern group, or be a god start to a nice new bike.

It is rarely cost effective to put money into an old cheaper frame. If the current bike works, ride it and save your money for a nicer new or newer used bike.

merlinextraligh

Won't work. You really would rather have a 1 1/8 steerer, or even a 1 1/4 tapering to 1 1/8 when you're going to a CF steerer. Thus almost every mid range to high end bike made in about the last 5 years or more has a 1 1/8 head tube and now some even 1 1/4.

So if you buy a new frame, your fork, headset will have no use.

And the stem won't work on the new bike either in all likelyhood. Even if you shim out a 1 1/8 stem, youll still need a stem for 26mm handlebars, and you'll want a 31.8mm handlebar on the new bike.

mvnsnd

Not to hijack the original request, but would an older, late 80's Cannondale Caad frame with the 1" steel fork be worthwhile to upgrade? Mostly to use a s a fun and training bike?

redvespablur

I have the Nashbar 1" fork on my 1986 Allez (the original fork was bent when bought second hand) I'm really happy with it.

The bike rides better than it did with the steel fork (bent). I'm 6'4'' and 240 and it makes for a very stable front end.

The c&V guys would disagree but I would rate it as a worthwhile upgrade even if the original fork isn't bent.

kaliayev

Cost efficiency is usually an individual perspective. Probably most component or frame upgrades are not really cost efficient based on the capabilities of a particular rider. If your upgrade makes you happier with your bike and you ride more it's worth it in my eyes. Also new does not always mean better. Older road frames which often tend to have a more relaxed geometry than their newer counterparts are better suited to the capabilities of most cyclist. I have rebuilt my 1992 Trek 1200 with an Ultergra/DA 9 speed drivetrain and other high end components. Brought it in for around $650. The bike now weighs 19.6lbs and rides great. As for the Easton bonded aluminum frame it's still here as are countless other bonded Trek frames. I'd be willing to bet their failure rate is lower than high end carbon frames, especially after 20 years. So please tell what is more cost efficient for the vast majority of cyclist, what I did or going out and throwing down $3/4 grand on a race bike that will never be raced. To me it's all in the individual perspective.

canam73

+1 on the Cane Creek S series.

And I like my old bikes and would have no problem throwing money into a new fork set up if one needed it.