|3iker

Just wondering how many of you are using some sort of mtb drivetrain part like cassette, RD, crankset?, etc.

I'm looking to get a Saint 11-28t. The range is exactly what I am looking for to match with my standard double. Hope it will play well with my RD7800 though. I think the max cog is 27t. Crossing fingers!

|3iker

Sorry wrong forum. But feel free to reply. It's aimed for Roadies.

xtrajack

I roll with a 42/34/24 in the front, 11-34 8 speed cassette.

safariofthemind

This is not an unusual question at all. Touring and Cross bikes often use a mix of MTB and Road parts, typically mtb in back and road in front but not always. Depends what you want to do. Good luck.

CCrew

Your 7800 should go to 30t They spec'ed it at 27 because that was the biggest road rear cog at the time.

And I have a frankenbike setup - Ultegra rear with a 6600 Ultegra cassette with LX triple crank and XT front der. and LX Dual Control levers.

CliftonGK1

I commute on a compact cx crank (34/48) and a MTB cassette (11 - 32) with a Deore rd, all on a cx frame.

bijan

I have a road bike with a mountain crankset 44/32/22 and a 12-25 cassette.

fuzz2050

Just wondering why you would want a Saint derailer. Don't those need to be mounted to the axle, necessitating a Saint hub? And I don't believer I've ever heard of a Saint hub being built into a road rim, meaning it's a custom job.

There's good reason to use MTB components, but I'm curious what your goal is that you would choose Saint.

TurbineBlade

Yep. Surly LHT with a hollowtech II 44/32/22 crankset, matching FD, Deore RD, and 11-34t "mountain" cassette. Oh, and thumb shifters.

What of it?

alan@ecovelo

I've had great luck running XT rear derailleurs with wide range cassettes on road/commuting bikes. On my LHT I'm running a simple 1x9 drivetrain with an 11-34 cassette, XT RD, Dura-ace bar-end on a Thumbie, and Sugino RD2 track crank. I have essentially the same set-up on my Riv, but a triple up front. There's certainly no reason to not mix-and-match road/mtd parts as long you check for compatibility before purchasing.

Alan

Fizzaly

i use MTB crank arms frame and RD then again i run a drop bar MTB soo....

daijoubu2k8

MTB parts used to be called Touring parts until mountain bikes became popular. I have a Deore LX RD and a Shimano 14-28 Freewheel. The Deore was a huge step up in quality for my mid eighties touring bike.

MrCjolsen

Actually, mtb gearing on a road bike makes good sense for anyone who has no need to go any faster than 30-35 mph. Which means most everyone who rides a bike and doesn't race in a peloton.

safariofthemind

What you give up with mtb gearing is the close gear spacing and cadence of road bikes, and some weight gain. But you gain beefier components and added durability. Depends on what you need. For most non racers or even people that do long-distance racing as opposed to Peloton racing, they make a lot of sense.

bijan

+1

I ride alone (or with people slower than me) and so I never go any faster than 30 mph on the flats (massive tailwind). And even down steep hills (rare) I try to keep to 35 (coasting and braking) due to the crappy crappy roads...

MrCjolsen

I like to ride fast. But going down a hill, once I hit 30mph, I like to let Sir Isaac Newton decide how fast I go.

|3iker

Just installed the Saint 11-28t (9s)on. I was contemplating to use 12-28 and subbing in a 15t as I don't think I'll be using 11t at all. But it's ok for now.
It is actually lighter than my old hg50 cassette.
Given that I have a 52/39 front, the 28t will come in handy for some moderate climbs.

TurbineBlade

Is he still around?

degnaw

Once I hit 30mph, I find it my civic duty to try to set a (personal, self-propelled) land speed record. I've maxed out my 50/12 gearing a couple times.

pwdeegan

i started on an old Trek AL frame with road parts, and because of big hills, slowly added MTB drivetrain parts to cope with the terrain (and my then-weak thighs). fast-forward two years and now i ride a CX frame with 135mm rear, which basically requires MT parts. The components work really well for real-world cycling. But if i lived somewhere flat, it would matter less, and my thighs would still be weak.

paul2432

I have a Surly LHT I've built up with mostly Shimano XT drivetrain. I do use a SRAM 11-26 cassette, although I may change to an Ultegra 12-27 when it wears out. It also has bar-end shifters.

Paul

safariofthemind

Oh, yah. Anything less than the speed of light and larger than an atom, and Mr. Newton comes a-knocking. Apples still fall on your noggin' if you fall asleep under the apple tree.

As far as MTB x Road stuff, the newer 2 x 10 setups in MTB's are definitely going to influence touring at some point. Improved chain lines for one and the cost of components for another. Old touring stuff is good and sturdy, but we all can't ignore the economies of scale involved in manufacturing. Mountain parts are going to be cheaper long run, for a given level of quality IMO. Throw in some bar-end shifters and a nice handlebar and off you go.

AsanaCycles

SRAM Apex (new groupo)
https://www.sram.com/sram/road/category/254

AsanaCycles

this is all SRAM X.O w/BB7's
it shifts better than my road bike, not to mention you can brake and shift at the same time.
plus of course it has a wider range in gear inch

woodway

I've got a 11-30 cassette installed with a Ultegra RD that is spec'ed to 27t. Works fine.

You'll also want to check the capacity spec. of your RD to make sure it can handle the full shifting range of your front rings and casette. For example, I run 50-34 front and 11-30 back which is (50-34)+(30-11)=35t. My RD has a capacity of 37t, so everything is good.