really fed up with my rival and lbs......
#1
Guest
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really fed up with my rival and lbs......
my front derailer simply wont change when i hit the shifter and i have to double click 10 times to get it to react.this occurs mostly when i go form the big cog to small cog on the front only.my back gears react perfectly.they tried to adjust it 4 times at my lbs and still its occurring.when a bike costs 3200.00 and is only 1 month old it pisses me off.3 different bike techs have tried to adjust it.today ill get the owner on the phone.do you guys think its defective or is the rival product simply junk?they hit me with that nonsense that we tightened up the cable 3 times but i sense thats just to get rid of me.any ideas cause i sure need your input.thanks.
#2
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Location: San Marcos, CA
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My Rival front der works great. I've had the bike just over a year, on the third chain, no problems.
If you move the left lever, what happens? The first click is the trim for the big ring, to get to the small ring should be just push the lever to the second click and release.
The only trouble I had was dropping the chain off the small ring. I fixed that with a low limit adjustment, and not dropping to the small ring under full power.
If you move the left lever, what happens? The first click is the trim for the big ring, to get to the small ring should be just push the lever to the second click and release.
The only trouble I had was dropping the chain off the small ring. I fixed that with a low limit adjustment, and not dropping to the small ring under full power.
#3
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Maybe you should try a different bike shop? I was haveing a little shifting issue with mine when I first got my Cannondale, but after the first adjustment it works fine now.
#4
Senior Member
It possibly could be defective or the mechanics at your lbs suck. Do you really think they'd keep saying we fixed it but really didn't touch it? Last thing they want is for you to come in every other day complaining about the shifting, they would of fixed it the first time so you wouldn't have to come back in. Try another LBS and see if they can fix it, if they can't either then it possibly is a defective derailleur.
#5
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Join Date: Apr 2009
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I had trouble with my Rival fd. Back to the shop they found it to wobble forward and aft, the 'hinge' if you will, was loose. I had them put on a Force fd rather than wait for another Rival fd to come in. Rock solid now. Since the crankset is Force also, this upgrade made sense to me.
#6
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2 issues there one wont they charge me since i didnt get the bike from there and two do i need a shim?and should the bike shop know this ?i just found out it might be needing a shim issue caused i called sram but for god sakes the bike shop should have called sram they should have known the 4 times in brought it in and 3200.00 wtf am i doing all the investigating for?i just got the mechanic of the phone with sram so im waiting for a call back.well heres one lesson im learning im gonna go through a lot of mechanics to find a good one aren't i?yeah i know welcome to the world of road biking!pisses me off
#8
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I had a problem with an Ultegra equipped bike I bought a few years back, before I started doing my own wrenching. But hte chain would fly off he fornt everytim I went from big to small.
I took it back to the shop 4 times in 3 days.
The LBS (won't mention names but you suck
) siad it was that I dod not know how to shift gears properly.
I had RSX that worked flawlessly and I am the type to use my transitions cogs while shifting.
I got fed up with the service and figured the "one year free" won't be any better so I went to my buddy Mark H at Comp Edge in Rancho/Haven.
I described the problem then no lie, in less than 10 seconds, standing 5 feet away from the bike he spotted the problem.
The LBS where I purchased the bike had the front derailleur set up like an MTB bike front dereailleur. He said the chainline was incorrect and set it up wrong through the front der. I swear it took him about 30 seconds to do it. NEVER HAD A PROBLEM AFTER THAT.
Bottom line, because a dude (s) works at an LBS doesn't mean they know their stuff. Chainline could be set up incorrectly through the front der.
In my case, there were 3 monkeys at the LBS that didn't know squat and one real mechanic at another shop.
I took it back to the shop 4 times in 3 days.
The LBS (won't mention names but you suck
![Big Grin](images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![EEK!](images/smilies/eek.gif)
I got fed up with the service and figured the "one year free" won't be any better so I went to my buddy Mark H at Comp Edge in Rancho/Haven.
I described the problem then no lie, in less than 10 seconds, standing 5 feet away from the bike he spotted the problem.
![EEK!](images/smilies/eek.gif)
Bottom line, because a dude (s) works at an LBS doesn't mean they know their stuff. Chainline could be set up incorrectly through the front der.
In my case, there were 3 monkeys at the LBS that didn't know squat and one real mechanic at another shop.
![Big Grin](images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#9
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first of all thanks now heres an update .just got a call from the lbs sram is sending out a brand new derailer and get this they are upgrading me at no charge to a force !!also it turns out i do need a shim and thats coming too at no charge!im pretty proud of myself for taking charge not relying on the lbs i got the cervelo from to call sram .also setting up a 3 way phone call with me lbs and sram on the phone!nothing like doing something yourself.im stoked!so tell me exactly why force is an upgrade from rival and thanks all!
#10
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Location: Roads of Ventura County Ca
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What's the shim for? As far as I know, you shouldn't NEED to shim the front derailleur in ANY way.
To me it sounds like your LBS SUCKS in service and knowledge. Setting up a front derailleur takes maybe 5 minutes. Diagnosing a front derailleur problem takes 2 minutes TOPS.
Here's how I would handle the diagnosis...
Remove the chain. Then I'd move the shifter lever to check if it moves the derailleur like it should. This is the ONLY way to be positive that the shifter is working properly. The shifter has a big "push" to upshift and has TWO "clicks" to shift down from the big ring position. One is for "trim" and the other is for the small ring shift. You should see the derailleur move with each click. "Trim" moves it just a tiny bit so you have to watch for it. Alternatively you can put your finger lightly on the derailleur cage and feel if it moves in "trim."
If that's OK, then it's an adjustment problem. Re-install the chain and loosen the cable fixing bolt. Turn the cable adjusting ferrule on the frame all the way in then turn it out 1 or 2 turns. Now, check the low limit screw on the derailleur to be sure that the cage is set correctly for the small ring so that the chain doesn't rub when in your biggest cog. Double check that the shifter lever is in the small ring setting and NOT in "trim." Tug on the cable end to remove all slack and tighten the cable fixing bolt. Shift the derailleur to the big ring. Check the limit screw to be sure that the derailleur can reach the big ring and doesn't overtravel. If the derailleur can swing far enough without hitting the limit screw but you can't upshift to the big ring by pushing the lever, turn the adjusting ferrule out 1/4 turn at a time until you can get it to shift. Now, click the lever ONE TIME to see if you get "trim." If you do, then click it again to drop to the small ring.
Normal shifting from the big ring to the small ring requires that you push the shifter lever until you hear TWO "clicks" in quick succession. If you are only hearing one click then you are just moving to "trim" which will NOT shift to the small ring.
My rival works PERFECTLY and has since day one. The components are better (IMO) than Shimano in both ergonomics and performance. There is no reason yours should not function correctly UNLESS the LBS mechanic has his head in a deep dark place. This ain't rocket science and all the engineering has been done by the factory.
To me it sounds like your LBS SUCKS in service and knowledge. Setting up a front derailleur takes maybe 5 minutes. Diagnosing a front derailleur problem takes 2 minutes TOPS.
Here's how I would handle the diagnosis...
Remove the chain. Then I'd move the shifter lever to check if it moves the derailleur like it should. This is the ONLY way to be positive that the shifter is working properly. The shifter has a big "push" to upshift and has TWO "clicks" to shift down from the big ring position. One is for "trim" and the other is for the small ring shift. You should see the derailleur move with each click. "Trim" moves it just a tiny bit so you have to watch for it. Alternatively you can put your finger lightly on the derailleur cage and feel if it moves in "trim."
If that's OK, then it's an adjustment problem. Re-install the chain and loosen the cable fixing bolt. Turn the cable adjusting ferrule on the frame all the way in then turn it out 1 or 2 turns. Now, check the low limit screw on the derailleur to be sure that the cage is set correctly for the small ring so that the chain doesn't rub when in your biggest cog. Double check that the shifter lever is in the small ring setting and NOT in "trim." Tug on the cable end to remove all slack and tighten the cable fixing bolt. Shift the derailleur to the big ring. Check the limit screw to be sure that the derailleur can reach the big ring and doesn't overtravel. If the derailleur can swing far enough without hitting the limit screw but you can't upshift to the big ring by pushing the lever, turn the adjusting ferrule out 1/4 turn at a time until you can get it to shift. Now, click the lever ONE TIME to see if you get "trim." If you do, then click it again to drop to the small ring.
Normal shifting from the big ring to the small ring requires that you push the shifter lever until you hear TWO "clicks" in quick succession. If you are only hearing one click then you are just moving to "trim" which will NOT shift to the small ring.
My rival works PERFECTLY and has since day one. The components are better (IMO) than Shimano in both ergonomics and performance. There is no reason yours should not function correctly UNLESS the LBS mechanic has his head in a deep dark place. This ain't rocket science and all the engineering has been done by the factory.
Last edited by Rob P.; 04-16-11 at 01:51 PM.
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
What's the shim for? As far as I know, you shouldn't NEED to shim the front derailleur in ANY way.
To me it sounds like your LBS SUCKS in service and knowledge. Setting up a front derailleur takes maybe 5 minutes. Diagnosing a front derailleur problem takes 2 minutes TOPS.
Here's how I would handle the diagnosis...
Remove the chain. Then I'd move the shifter lever to check if it moves the derailleur like it should. This is the ONLY way to be positive that the shifter is working properly. The shifter has a big "push" to upshift and has TWO "clicks" to shift down from the big ring position. One is for "trim" and the other is for the small ring shift. You should see the derailleur move with each click. "Trim" moves it just a tiny bit so you have to watch for it. Alternatively you can put your finger lightly on the derailleur cage and feel if it moves in "trim."
If that's OK, then it's an adjustment problem. Re-install the chain and loosen the cable fixing bolt. Turn the cable adjusting ferrule on the frame all the way in then turn it out 1 or 2 turns. Now, check the low limit screw on the derailleur to be sure that the cage is set correctly for the small ring so that the chain doesn't rub when in your biggest cog. Double check that the shifter lever is in the small ring setting and NOT in "trim." Tug on the cable end to remove all slack and tighten the cable fixing bolt. Shift the derailleur to the big ring. Check the limit screw to be sure that the derailleur can reach the big ring and doesn't overtravel. If the derailleur can swing far enough without hitting the limit screw but you can't upshift to the big ring by pushing the lever, turn the adjusting ferrule out 1/4 turn at a time until you can get it to shift. Now, click the lever ONE TIME to see if you get "trim." If you do, then click it again to drop to the small ring.
Normal shifting from the big ring to the small ring requires that you push the shifter lever until you hear TWO "clicks" in quick succession. If you are only hearing one click then you are just moving to "trim" which will NOT shift to the small ring.
My rival works PERFECTLY and has since day one. The components are better (IMO) than Shimano in both ergonomics and performance. There is no reason yours should not function correctly UNLESS the LBS mechanic has his head in a deep dark place. This ain't rocket science and all the engineering has been done by the factory.
To me it sounds like your LBS SUCKS in service and knowledge. Setting up a front derailleur takes maybe 5 minutes. Diagnosing a front derailleur problem takes 2 minutes TOPS.
Here's how I would handle the diagnosis...
Remove the chain. Then I'd move the shifter lever to check if it moves the derailleur like it should. This is the ONLY way to be positive that the shifter is working properly. The shifter has a big "push" to upshift and has TWO "clicks" to shift down from the big ring position. One is for "trim" and the other is for the small ring shift. You should see the derailleur move with each click. "Trim" moves it just a tiny bit so you have to watch for it. Alternatively you can put your finger lightly on the derailleur cage and feel if it moves in "trim."
If that's OK, then it's an adjustment problem. Re-install the chain and loosen the cable fixing bolt. Turn the cable adjusting ferrule on the frame all the way in then turn it out 1 or 2 turns. Now, check the low limit screw on the derailleur to be sure that the cage is set correctly for the small ring so that the chain doesn't rub when in your biggest cog. Double check that the shifter lever is in the small ring setting and NOT in "trim." Tug on the cable end to remove all slack and tighten the cable fixing bolt. Shift the derailleur to the big ring. Check the limit screw to be sure that the derailleur can reach the big ring and doesn't overtravel. If the derailleur can swing far enough without hitting the limit screw but you can't upshift to the big ring by pushing the lever, turn the adjusting ferrule out 1/4 turn at a time until you can get it to shift. Now, click the lever ONE TIME to see if you get "trim." If you do, then click it again to drop to the small ring.
Normal shifting from the big ring to the small ring requires that you push the shifter lever until you hear TWO "clicks" in quick succession. If you are only hearing one click then you are just moving to "trim" which will NOT shift to the small ring.
My rival works PERFECTLY and has since day one. The components are better (IMO) than Shimano in both ergonomics and performance. There is no reason yours should not function correctly UNLESS the LBS mechanic has his head in a deep dark place. This ain't rocket science and all the engineering has been done by the factory.
#12
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Wow, what Cervelo uses a shim and were is it put. I have never needed one that I know of. But the guys at Sram are awesome at helping out with equipment. Customer service at Cervelo is awesome as well.
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