silmarillion

And can't wait to test fly it tomorrow...

The set up is the same..Nashbar X frame, Nashbar carbon fork.

FSA MT Orbit Headset

Chris King Classic hubs w/Velocity Deep V 32x 3cross Ritchey SpeedMax rubber

Tiagra STI shifters, Avid shorty6 canti brakes.

I have a 11/25 cassette, and a 11/34 cassette. 11/25 pictured

Ultegra triple octalink BB 48/39 FSA Rings Ultegra triple crank 175

Ultegra triple FD and Ultegra GS RD

Fly seat tube WTB pureV saddle

Weighs 17.3 pounds without the lights and saddlebag.

cc700

so jealous of chris king hubs! and i'm sorry but 17.9lbs? that sounds stupid light, this is not a lightweight frame!

RT

Yeah, that sounds really light. The weight loss must be in the wheels.

silmarillion

Yeah I know right? I could not believe it myself when I weighed it. but that's what it was. I have put a seat bag with an alien tool and inflator/tube. I need to weigh it again.

I had the hubs laying around on a set of wheels I had for my Bacchetta Corsa. I bought a pair of Kysrium wheels and never did anything with the wheels. I was so happy that I was able to use them.

I don't know what kind of weight savings I get on the wheels in comparison to what other people are using.

Eventually, I may put a set of FSA SL-K cranks and a carbon seat tube...but it's not really a priority right now. I also have a set of magnesium pedals, I may change them to eggbeaters as well.

I'm riding to work tomorrow! I'm so excited!

SteveDave

I may have missed it, but what is the weight of the bare frame?

faire_du_velo

I am really having a hard time believing that weight. My friend's Carbon cross bike with sram force/rival is over 18lbs and I don't see any especially light parts on your build list.

silmarillion

Sorry, I made a mistake. For some reason my scale was weighing light.

So what I did was put a new battery in and got some dive weights to check how close I was..

The dive weight weighs 1Kg = 3.3 lbs. In the photos we took, we took several measurements, that showed the weight to be 3.6 lbs. I reweighed it 3 or 4 times and got the same weight every time. I have attached photos..

Same with my bike. The hardest thing to do was to set the bike down softly on the scale or it weighs light for some reason. So we did this several times, the weight seemed to always be within 19.2 and 19.8 pounds.

Of course this is just a home scale, and it was all I could do to lightly balance the bike to get a more accurate measurement. I held the sides of the handlebars ever so lightly and my wife shot the photos. (she thinks weighing bikes is a mental disorder...) Anyway, I apologize for my incorrect statement before.

I would safely say that my bike weighs 20 pounds. That's about right huh? I still need to put my seatbag with my bike tool, co2 inflator and tube.

silmarillion

Hey faire_du_velo,

I see you are from (Beaufort) S.C.

I live in (Buford) Ga.

For some odd reason, we always get mail addressed to Beaufort, Ga. Really screws up the post office. I have always thought that was pretty funny...

math is fun

1Kg = 2.2 lbs if your scale says a 1 Kg weight is 3.6 lbs you might have a good bit of error there and I wouldnt trust that any measurements that scale made.

*edit*
I see in your photos that the weight is 1.5 Kg in which case 3.3 lbs is correct. Bathroom scales are notoriously inaccurate especially at the low/ high end of their ranges. I would be interested to see what the bike weighs on a better scale.

Flying Merkel

At the end of it all, would you do it again? I built a Nashbar MTB frame up. Love the results, bike works great, but I'd rather buy a used or new bike next time.

From the looks of it, I'd love yer bike.

Bruzer

I just converted the Nashbar X frame to use an FSA Gossamer road triple crankset 53/39/30 and I wanted to let everyone know that works just fine. Megaexo bottom bracket and Ultegra triple derailleur work just fine on the bike. I know crankset clearance is an issue with this frame and people considering a purchase would want to know stuff like that.

silmarillion

Well, I have enjoyed it thus far. As far as commuting, it's a great bike for that. I don't race, but I do like to cross-ride. I can't speak to the bikes race-ability, there are some things I probably would change..but it looks cool, and it's very capable of handling the various options I have to get to work.

I will see if I can weigh it at work, we have a more accurate scale there.

Camilo

I really appreciate this info. I came so close to buying one of these frames during one of the various sales this spring (discount, free shipping, whatever... made it very cheap!). I was just too uncertain about the road triple thing since the guy at Nashbar actually told me (by email) that it wouldn't work. Now, I'll be much more comfortable maybe trying one for my wife or daughter who want road-ish bikes with nice wide tires and maybe fenders.

Sounds like the rear spacing question has been settled at 130 too?

Camilo

Probably more accurate to just weigh yourself w/o bike then weigh yourself holding the bike.

monsterpile

For anyone considering the frame I'll mention the whole Nashbar Cross bike with a carbon fiber fork and Sora components is $499 if you order from the catalog right now.

Banzai

That's funny, considering that 130 was the problem, not 135.

135 gives more flexibility in wheel selection for this frame.

You can build as many rim brake wheels as you want on 130 or 135 hubs. If you want to run discs on 130s, you may have a little problem in hub selection.

Bruzer

It should be noted that this bike uses a different cyclocross frame. The cable routing is much different, and the frame does not accept disc brakes. My original intention was to build a "cyclocross" bike with disc brakes.

silmarillion

I wish they would have put that cable hangar on the back of the X frame...

RT

After re-reading the entire thread and not finding much on how this frame fits, could those of you who have built up this frame post with your height, inseam, and size of frame? I sold the MTB/cross I built and want to build this frame. The medium is more in line with what I like for effective TT, and the large is more in line with my standover, but seems like it has awful long wheelbase. Not sure if it is best to go M with a longer stem or a L with a 80mm stem. I am 6'1"/34" inseam with cleats on.

cc700

i honestly don't know my inseam. i'm 5'8'' on a tall day and a 54cm fits great with a 100mm stem. i'm very square; my legs aren't any longer or shorter than one would expect.

i think it's probably the best fitting 'four size fits all' frame i've tried. i can comfortably set up a 51-58 and ride for miles though, so maybe i just am more elastic.

i think it's probably safe to always size down and stem up on a cross frame, but that's just me.

RT

Trouble is, this frame is not sized traditionally. With the sloping downtube, you get an effective TT measurement. Which 'size' did you get? I don't want to go too small and have to show a foot of seatpost.

afwen

I'm 5'10.5" with a 31" inseam (long torso, short legs) and I'm very comfortable on a 58 cm (L) X frame (w/130mm rear spacing).

wookee

Well the crankarm/chainstay spacing just bit me. I managed to pickup a S900 SRAM crank w/ 48/36 gearing and the crankarm clears the chainstay by about 0.5-1mm. So while riding it, they'll definitely touch. It uses a GXP bottom bracket, so I'm at a loss about what to do. Any ideas on maybe a spacer or something?

For what I scored this crankset for, I'm tempted to just sell the frame.

cc700

i don't know if i'll sell the frame or keep it as a commuter. but i won't be racing on it...
https://ceramicconfessions.files.word...0-dsc_2496.jpg

thisisbenji

@cc700 getting rid of the nashbar frame? I took mine apart after one race and switched to a Specialized Crux. Still looking to get rid of the nashbar frame though.