Lightweight Bicycles
#1
Lightweight Bicycles
Hey
So most of you guys here made fun of me for getting a GMC Denali Road Bicycle. It was my first road bicycle and I wanted to see how I like them. I really enjoy the bicycle, but after adding a pump, saddlebag, computer, front/rear lights, extra water bottle cage, and a gel seat, it literally added like 5 pounds to the bicycle I think. I see all these pro riders out there with either Trek's or Cannondale's and their bikes probably weigh less than a pound. I was wondering if weight really matters and if those 1000-2000 bicycles are really worth it? I mean I really enjoy my bicycle that I got for practically nothing. I spent half as much on accessories than I did for the bike, but I enjoy it. I'd like to get into some clubs eventually once I have been riding more, but I want to know if I should just lose all the stuff on my bicycle or just ride with it. I had a flat tire on my dad's bicycle that I was starting on, so I prepared ahead of time and got a mini pump and saddle bag to carry an extra tire, etc. But I see pro rider's don't carry anything like that with them. Just need some imput here, Thanks!
So most of you guys here made fun of me for getting a GMC Denali Road Bicycle. It was my first road bicycle and I wanted to see how I like them. I really enjoy the bicycle, but after adding a pump, saddlebag, computer, front/rear lights, extra water bottle cage, and a gel seat, it literally added like 5 pounds to the bicycle I think. I see all these pro riders out there with either Trek's or Cannondale's and their bikes probably weigh less than a pound. I was wondering if weight really matters and if those 1000-2000 bicycles are really worth it? I mean I really enjoy my bicycle that I got for practically nothing. I spent half as much on accessories than I did for the bike, but I enjoy it. I'd like to get into some clubs eventually once I have been riding more, but I want to know if I should just lose all the stuff on my bicycle or just ride with it. I had a flat tire on my dad's bicycle that I was starting on, so I prepared ahead of time and got a mini pump and saddle bag to carry an extra tire, etc. But I see pro rider's don't carry anything like that with them. Just need some imput here, Thanks!
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 8,550
Bikes: Wilier Izoard XP (Record);Cinelli Xperience (Force);Specialized Allez (Rival);Bianchi Via Nirone 7 (Centaur); Colnago AC-R Disc;Colnago V1r Limited Edition;De Rosa King 3 Limited(Force 22);DeRosa Merak(Red):Pinarello Dogma 65.1 Hydro(Di2)
Liked 278 Times
in
146 Posts
If you have to ask...
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 273
Bikes: Giant Defy, Trek FX
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Good luck with your bike and keep riding it as long as you enjoy it. You might decide later that it's worth it to you to upgrade later, bikes costing more are worth it if you get use out of them. It's a good idea to carry a kit for some repairs in case you get in a jam and don't worry aboutthe slight increase in weight you're carrying. Most of those riders you see out there are not pros and a lot of them carry some stuff for repairs.
#7
Still a newb.
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Northern IL
Posts: 451
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Most have support crews nearby.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Sacramento area
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
90% rider, 10% bike. Don't sweat it as long as it is riding well. If you ever join group rides or start racing, you may then want to start thinking about something better. And keep the repair stuff with you unless you like to wait around for a pissy friend/S.O. to come get you.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: NYC
Posts: 2,780
Bikes: Felt AR1, Cervelo S2
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
3 Posts
first of all, nobody should make fun of you for what you ride. the way it works here is that people will defend what they spent money on to the death, and put down anything that costs more or less. so ignore it.
a lighter bike (which will be more expensive) means that you have to expend less weight to get it to go - which means more energy, which means you can ride faster or longer. having gone from low-end mountain bikes to my current ride (16lbs), i think it's definitely worth it.
that doesn't make your bike any worse. it's just that this is an instance where you can get a big benefit by investing some money. there are diminishing returns, though (going from 22lbs to 16lbs isn't horrible....going from 16lbs to 13lbs gets very expensive)
a lighter bike (which will be more expensive) means that you have to expend less weight to get it to go - which means more energy, which means you can ride faster or longer. having gone from low-end mountain bikes to my current ride (16lbs), i think it's definitely worth it.
that doesn't make your bike any worse. it's just that this is an instance where you can get a big benefit by investing some money. there are diminishing returns, though (going from 22lbs to 16lbs isn't horrible....going from 16lbs to 13lbs gets very expensive)
#10
SpeedFreak
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: The OC
Posts: 652
Bikes: Motobecane Le Champ Ti
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Agree. Don't worry about what others are riding. As long as you enjoy your bike and like what you're doing, who cares what others think?
Suggestion if you want to lighten the weight on your bike:
Carry one extra inner tube, plastic tire levers, two CO2 canisters, and one small CO2 nozzle/inflator. Forget about that damn pump! Not only does it weigh you down, but do you really see yourself pumping that thing to even 50 PSi? You would be tired as all hell by the time you get to 50-60psi with a hand pump. C02 nozzle/inflator is the way to go.
Leave the lights at home unless you plan to ride in the dark.
What kind of pedals are you using? Pedals add a significant amount of weight so choose wisely. Performance Bike sells the Forte Pro SPD pedal for a mere $39 that is the lightest SPD style pedal there is. If you are already using a clip-on style shoes, this is the way to go without breaking the bank.
Do you need a "gel" seat? Big, fluffy seats add weight. Choose one that is comfortable but weigh very little. Again, Performace Bike sells the Forte Pro saddle....it is very light, very comfortable, and costs less than $50.
If your bike has a kickstand, loose it.
What kind of water bottle cages did you put? Lightweight aluminum I hope. Plastic is just as good and light.
You can go further but it's not worth it. Just keep your bike well tuned, the tires inflated right, and avoid hills!
The frame, wheels, and brakes/deraillures on your Denali is what weighs it down the most. It's not wise to upgrade any further. If the bike is running smoothly, just enjoy.
Suggestion if you want to lighten the weight on your bike:
Carry one extra inner tube, plastic tire levers, two CO2 canisters, and one small CO2 nozzle/inflator. Forget about that damn pump! Not only does it weigh you down, but do you really see yourself pumping that thing to even 50 PSi? You would be tired as all hell by the time you get to 50-60psi with a hand pump. C02 nozzle/inflator is the way to go.
Leave the lights at home unless you plan to ride in the dark.
What kind of pedals are you using? Pedals add a significant amount of weight so choose wisely. Performance Bike sells the Forte Pro SPD pedal for a mere $39 that is the lightest SPD style pedal there is. If you are already using a clip-on style shoes, this is the way to go without breaking the bank.
Do you need a "gel" seat? Big, fluffy seats add weight. Choose one that is comfortable but weigh very little. Again, Performace Bike sells the Forte Pro saddle....it is very light, very comfortable, and costs less than $50.
If your bike has a kickstand, loose it.
What kind of water bottle cages did you put? Lightweight aluminum I hope. Plastic is just as good and light.
You can go further but it's not worth it. Just keep your bike well tuned, the tires inflated right, and avoid hills!
![Smilie](images/smilies/smile.gif)
#11
Peripheral Visionary
If you check out some TDF statistics, you'll find that on "heavy" bikes in the 80's, riders were still haulin' ass. The average speed has gone up about a whole 3 km/h...
https://bikeraceinfo.com/tdf/tdfstats.html
So yea, weight is not that important.
https://bikeraceinfo.com/tdf/tdfstats.html
So yea, weight is not that important.
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Sacramento area
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
if you check out some tdf statistics, you'll find that on "heavy" bikes in the 80's, riders were still haulin' ass. The average speed has gone up about a whole 3 km/h...
https://bikeraceinfo.com/tdf/tdfstats.html
so yea, weight is not that important.
https://bikeraceinfo.com/tdf/tdfstats.html
so yea, weight is not that important.
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Northeast TN
Posts: 1,564
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
honestly as suggested above if you want to see what the difference between your bike and a 2k bike is. go to a bike shop and test one out. then you will know.
does weight matter. some yes but its normally not that noticable. the only time it is would be when climbing or accelerating. you can always make your bike lighter but i doubt i would spend to much money on that bike.
why do you not see pros or other people with a saddle bag? they put what they need in their jersey pockets. i dont use a saddle bag but i do carry a spare tube, CO2 (to fill tires), tire levers, some tools, and patches with me in my jersey pockets.
do yourself a favor and lose the gel seat cover. honestly anything with get on a bike is bad news really. gloves maybe the only execption for some. you should buy a good seat (you can move this over to a new bike if you get one) and a good pair of bibs or shorts. again dont buy shorts or bibs with gel in them.
does weight matter. some yes but its normally not that noticable. the only time it is would be when climbing or accelerating. you can always make your bike lighter but i doubt i would spend to much money on that bike.
why do you not see pros or other people with a saddle bag? they put what they need in their jersey pockets. i dont use a saddle bag but i do carry a spare tube, CO2 (to fill tires), tire levers, some tools, and patches with me in my jersey pockets.
do yourself a favor and lose the gel seat cover. honestly anything with get on a bike is bad news really. gloves maybe the only execption for some. you should buy a good seat (you can move this over to a new bike if you get one) and a good pair of bibs or shorts. again dont buy shorts or bibs with gel in them.
#15
the gel seat is actually my favorite addition, why do you guys dislike it so much? but thanks for the tips, my bike seems fine for what i am doing now. can i really go to a bike shop and they would let me take a really expensive bike out for a test run for free? thanks!
#16
Former Hoarder
#17
SpeedFreak
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: The OC
Posts: 652
Bikes: Motobecane Le Champ Ti
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Well yes they will allow you to test ride. It would be nice if you were actually thinking about buying though. I mean, don't waste the shop's time on a busy Saturday or Sunday when they are trying to sell bikes to customers with true intentions of buying. If you just want to test ride with no intetion of buying, then come in on a less busy day like a weekday. I think that's fair to them.
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Far beyond the pale horizon.
Posts: 14,457
Liked 1,452 Times
in
1,009 Posts
A heavy bike is less pleasant to ride for long distance but the actual weight differences between normal bicycles has a tiny effect on performance for most riders. For example, while people might notice extra weight while accelerating, that doesn't mean that it has any effect on their overall speed. Keep in mind that it's the total weight (bicycle+rider+equipment) that basically matters.
Really expensive bikes ($3000+) are a case of severely diminishing returns: any extra advantage is small and really only worthwhile if you are competing (ie, racing).
You might actually not like how an expensive bike handles. Shops generally let people test ride bikes but it takes them a bit of time to set one up. If you want to demo bikes, try to demo something that you might have some chance of purchasing!
Last edited by njkayaker; 05-31-11 at 10:15 AM.
#20
Portland Fred
Seriously. A strong rider on a crappy bike is way faster than a weak rider on a great bike. Cycling is a great sport for all income levels. If you have loads of cash, you can feel good because your equipment is way better than everyone elses'. If you're dirt poor, you can feel good about dropping the guys who have loads of cash and fancy bikes while riding an iron pig.
That's what it's all about. My advice would be to ride your bike into the ground and when the time comes, get a better one. In the meantime, don't sweat upgrading or replacing anything. A better bike doesn't make you a better rider -- it only makes you slightly faster. Also, if you put many thousands of miles on crappy bikes, you'll appreciate the good stuff more when you can get it.
That's what it's all about. My advice would be to ride your bike into the ground and when the time comes, get a better one. In the meantime, don't sweat upgrading or replacing anything. A better bike doesn't make you a better rider -- it only makes you slightly faster. Also, if you put many thousands of miles on crappy bikes, you'll appreciate the good stuff more when you can get it.
#21
thanks for the input guys, and for the last comment, yeah i think i will put like 10,000 or so on this bike and see how it does. i saw videos of people taking it to 7000 already i think so it will definately last me. but once i get more experience, stronger legs, slimmer body, i will get a higher priced better bicycle. i was climbing a literally 45 degree hill today and i wasnt paying full attention in front of me and hit a telephone pole going like 3 mph. it barely knocked me off the bike, but my front handlebar screw came lose and the bar got bent. if i did that with a 2000 dollar bike i would have been very mad. i will keep saving up and getting better and when the time comes i will upgrade. maybe by then i will belong to a club and participate in some races. i think i would really enjoy that.
#23
Senior Member
#24
Pointy Helmet Tribe
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Offthebackistan
Posts: 4,338
Bikes: R5, Allez Sprint, Shiv
Liked 627 Times
in
295 Posts
Hehe, now that he's on Bikeforums, he's going to have a lawyer proof-read all his posts ![Smilie](images/smilies/smile.gif)
OP - as has been said, nice is relative. IMO, from where you are to a $700 bike will be a radical difference. From there onwards, the benefits start to diminish.
I have a theory of 2 "sweet spots" - one is the entry-level sweet spot. At this point, spending less will mean compromises which may not be acceptable to all. That sweet spot is arguably the Sora/Tiagra range (for me, it is Al frame/carbon fork/Tiagra - $800-1000).
The other is the higher-end sweet spot, where you get virtually all the performance of a top-end bikes but at a more reasonable price. To me, that is a high modulus/high quality carbon frame/Ultegra or Rival category, around $2500-3000.
In between are various options which meet various preferences of price/performance.
This is my opinion. Others will probably draw the lines differently. However, while no one is saying you shouldnt enjoy your bike if it works for you, you'll find that the consensus is that the Sora/Tiagra bike will be indeed an improvement. But as has been repeated, if you are happy with what you have, ride the snit out of it till it breaks. Dont upgrade if you dont have a pressing need.
![Smilie](images/smilies/smile.gif)
OP - as has been said, nice is relative. IMO, from where you are to a $700 bike will be a radical difference. From there onwards, the benefits start to diminish.
I have a theory of 2 "sweet spots" - one is the entry-level sweet spot. At this point, spending less will mean compromises which may not be acceptable to all. That sweet spot is arguably the Sora/Tiagra range (for me, it is Al frame/carbon fork/Tiagra - $800-1000).
The other is the higher-end sweet spot, where you get virtually all the performance of a top-end bikes but at a more reasonable price. To me, that is a high modulus/high quality carbon frame/Ultegra or Rival category, around $2500-3000.
In between are various options which meet various preferences of price/performance.
This is my opinion. Others will probably draw the lines differently. However, while no one is saying you shouldnt enjoy your bike if it works for you, you'll find that the consensus is that the Sora/Tiagra bike will be indeed an improvement. But as has been repeated, if you are happy with what you have, ride the snit out of it till it breaks. Dont upgrade if you dont have a pressing need.
#25
If you really like your current bike, then toss all of that junk off of it. Get a mini blackburn pump, carry a spare tube or two, and a tire lever in your jersey pocket. Some nice light, easy rolling wheels and you are good to go...
![Thumbs Up](images/smilies/thumb.gif)