Help me identify this Cinelli!
#51
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 222
Bikes: 2010 Niner EMD, 2008 Surly Steamroller, 2007 Giant OCR.
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I tried taking a picture of the Rear Derailleur as I disassembled it --- I was AMAZED to find tiny ball bearings and cones inside of the derailleur pulleys! Incredible. Maybe that's common with this old campy stuff? I've never seen that before. I would have taken a picture but my crummy point-and-shoot couldn't take a clear photo of something that small.
#52
Ride heavy metal.
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Teenage Wasteland, USA
Posts: 1,538
Bikes: '74 Raleigh LTD-3, '76 Motobecane Grand Jubile, '83 Fuji TSIII (customized commuter), '10 Mercier Kilo WT (fixed obsession), '83 Bianchi Alloro, '92 Bridgestone MB-1 (project), '83 Specialized Expedition (project), '79 Peugeot UO-8 (sold)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Alan, thanks for running a quality company. I'm currently awaiting my order of various parts and the backordered VO Porteur bars, but I've had nothing but good interactions with Tree Fort in the past and don't really expect anything less with this one.
So OT: thanks. And HOT Cinelli. Can't wait to see the frame once it's finally complete.
So OT: thanks. And HOT Cinelli. Can't wait to see the frame once it's finally complete.
#53
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Maidstone, Kent, England
Posts: 2,637
Bikes: 1970 Holdsworth Mistral, Vitus 979, Colnago Primavera, Corratec Hydracarbon, Massi MegaTeam, 1935 Claud Butler Super Velo, Carrera Virtuoso, Viner, 1953 Claud Butler Silver Jubilee, 1954 Holdsworth Typhoon, 1966 Claud Butler Olympic Road, 1982 Claud
Liked 12 Times
in
11 Posts
Its about time this thread deserves a BUMP.
I've been working quite a bit on this bike and I have to say its one of the most fun and rewarding projects I've done. Unfortunately time is limited, so my progress is slow, but in the same sense this restoration is kicking my butt. Everything is requiring to be completely disassembled, totally cleaned, and restored. All threads are getting grease. All surfaces are being safely cleaned and polished.
I'm going a very safe route on this. I've only been using cotton rags, WD-40, Mother's (for alloy), NevrDull (for chrome), and steel wool for only the roughest of rust (so far only on bottle cages and spokes). And of course, lots of time, elbow grease, and frustration.
The bike is completely disassembled, save for the headset and BB. I'm done with brakes, derailleurs, bars/stem, and bottle cages. Front hub shell is completely cleaned and polished, still need to repack bearings. Parts are only polished by hand so they don't really keep their shine after handling them - I'll take a buffer to it before reassembling everything.
RIM UPDATE: both rims are shot. I ended up finding identical replacements (which are Fiamme Red Label) from the awesome guys at Sic Transit Cycle in Ann Arbor. Gave me an killing deal because they are great dudes. Check them out. The "new" rims are currently getting old glue chipped off and then will be polished to death. Once the hub is repacked, the wheel will be laced back together with all the same spokes and nipples, but which are now in pristine condition. I'll post a pic when its built.
For now, here are the best looking parts disassembled and cleaned!
I've been working quite a bit on this bike and I have to say its one of the most fun and rewarding projects I've done. Unfortunately time is limited, so my progress is slow, but in the same sense this restoration is kicking my butt. Everything is requiring to be completely disassembled, totally cleaned, and restored. All threads are getting grease. All surfaces are being safely cleaned and polished.
I'm going a very safe route on this. I've only been using cotton rags, WD-40, Mother's (for alloy), NevrDull (for chrome), and steel wool for only the roughest of rust (so far only on bottle cages and spokes). And of course, lots of time, elbow grease, and frustration.
The bike is completely disassembled, save for the headset and BB. I'm done with brakes, derailleurs, bars/stem, and bottle cages. Front hub shell is completely cleaned and polished, still need to repack bearings. Parts are only polished by hand so they don't really keep their shine after handling them - I'll take a buffer to it before reassembling everything.
RIM UPDATE: both rims are shot. I ended up finding identical replacements (which are Fiamme Red Label) from the awesome guys at Sic Transit Cycle in Ann Arbor. Gave me an killing deal because they are great dudes. Check them out. The "new" rims are currently getting old glue chipped off and then will be polished to death. Once the hub is repacked, the wheel will be laced back together with all the same spokes and nipples, but which are now in pristine condition. I'll post a pic when its built.
For now, here are the best looking parts disassembled and cleaned!
OMG! Khatfull's got another disciple!
Superb work on those parts Alan!
#54
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 222
Bikes: 2010 Niner EMD, 2008 Surly Steamroller, 2007 Giant OCR.
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Alan, thanks for running a quality company. I'm currently awaiting my order of various parts and the bahttps://www.bikeforums.net/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=13040882ckordered VO Porteur bars, but I've had nothing but good interactions with Tree Fort in the past and don't really expect anything less with this one.
So OT: thanks. And HOT Cinelli. Can't wait to see the frame once it's finally complete.
So OT: thanks. And HOT Cinelli. Can't wait to see the frame once it's finally complete.
Last edited by Alan@TreeFort; 08-05-11 at 04:27 PM. Reason: derailment
#55
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 222
Bikes: 2010 Niner EMD, 2008 Surly Steamroller, 2007 Giant OCR.
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Free time is great. This is my Sunday afternoon:
Got a couple questions too.
1.) I found this stamped on the backside of the lock nut. CAM 65. Is this possibly a manufacture date? I still haven't found any solid info on the year of this bike.
2.) I'm a little tricked up by the dust seal. Not sure if it snaps in like the Shimano hubs - or if it threads out, by using a spanner wrench in the whole (if so, which way is it threaded?) - or if it just doesn't come out. I've tried very lightly to both pop it out from behind and to unthread it, and didn't budge either way.
Got a couple questions too.
1.) I found this stamped on the backside of the lock nut. CAM 65. Is this possibly a manufacture date? I still haven't found any solid info on the year of this bike.
2.) I'm a little tricked up by the dust seal. Not sure if it snaps in like the Shimano hubs - or if it threads out, by using a spanner wrench in the whole (if so, which way is it threaded?) - or if it just doesn't come out. I've tried very lightly to both pop it out from behind and to unthread it, and didn't budge either way.
#56
Senior Member
You are correct, the 65 is for 1965. Probably your best bet for dating the bike.
Looking great! I look forward to seeing it rebuilt.
Looking great! I look forward to seeing it rebuilt.
#57
FBoD Member at Large
2.) I'm a little tricked up by the dust seal. Not sure if it snaps in like the Shimano hubs - or if it threads out, by using a spanner wrench in the whole (if so, which way is it threaded?) - or if it just doesn't come out. I've tried very lightly to both pop it out from behind and to unthread it, and didn't budge either way.
Lovely bike, and your restoration looks fabulous.
#58
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 3,022
Bikes: '53/'54 Bianchi CDM, '62ish Altenburger Cinelli Mod B, '69 Rene Herse Competition, '72 Motobecane Grand Record, '73-74 Colnago Super,, '73-74 Cinelli SC, '78ish counterfeit Confente, '82 Medici Gran Turismo, '67ish Mondia Speciale, Eddy Merckx Pro
Liked 303 Times
in
100 Posts
The dust seals aren't threaded. I've used broad flat screwdrivers or old metal tire irons to gently pry them out and then a rubber mallet to gently tap them into place. But, you can also replace grease and bearings without removing them. Your call. If there's a lot of old grease gunked up in there, I'd remove them, as it makes it easier to clean, grease, and replace.
#59
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 222
Bikes: 2010 Niner EMD, 2008 Surly Steamroller, 2007 Giant OCR.
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
The dust seals aren't threaded. I've used broad flat screwdrivers or old metal tire irons to gently pry them out and then a rubber mallet to gently tap them into place. But, you can also replace grease and bearings without removing them. Your call. If there's a lot of old grease gunked up in there, I'd remove them, as it makes it easier to clean, grease, and replace.
#60
Banned
I just saw the entire bike and bits. No need to take off the dust caps.
The bike is freaking amazing, it will clean up very nice, with just enough patina to be authentic.
Thanks for bringing it by. Slo and easy is the course now. remove surface rust before it hits the chrome.. No abrasives at all.
The bike is freaking amazing, it will clean up very nice, with just enough patina to be authentic.
Thanks for bringing it by. Slo and easy is the course now. remove surface rust before it hits the chrome.. No abrasives at all.
#61
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Hervey Bay, Qld, Australia.
Posts: 2,933
Bikes: Colnago (82, 85, 89, 90, 91, 96, 03), 85 Cinelli, 90 Rossin, 83 Alan, 82 Bianchi, 78 Fountain, 2 x Pinarello, Malvern Star (37), Hillman (70's), 80's Beretto Lo-Pro Track, 80's Kenevans Lo-Pro, Columbus Max (95), DeGrandi (80's) Track.
Liked 205 Times
in
127 Posts
I predict many years of pride of ownership ahead of you. What a wonderful present and a wonderful bike.
#62
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 222
Bikes: 2010 Niner EMD, 2008 Surly Steamroller, 2007 Giant OCR.
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I just saw the entire bike and bits. No need to take off the dust caps.
The bike is freaking amazing, it will clean up very nice, with just enough patina to be authentic.
Thanks for bringing it by. Slo and easy is the course now. remove surface rust before it hits the chrome.. No abrasives at all.
The bike is freaking amazing, it will clean up very nice, with just enough patina to be authentic.
Thanks for bringing it by. Slo and easy is the course now. remove surface rust before it hits the chrome.. No abrasives at all.
I'll be cleaning up the frame tonight, I've got some time. Yep, slow is the word. Hell, in the end this bike is going to be a lot less fun once its completely finished!
Last edited by Alan@TreeFort; 08-06-11 at 06:42 PM.
#63
Senior Member
Just a stunning bike. Yes, a bike like that must be great fun to work on and bring immense satisfaction as you become intimately involved with all the pieces and parts. You've been graced with a wonderful project. I too eagerly wait to see the finished bike.
#64
Senior Member
Just curious Alan, did you replace the brake pads or are those the originals? Almost look like Kool stop material. The red pads on my mod. 61's look more fibrous with that white fiber they mixed into the compound, whatever that was.
#65
Banned
What do you mean? I am as old as dirt.
#66
Senior Member
What a terrific gift, and to a guy who did not turn it into a "fixie".
I would be scouting for:
Replacement brake lever hoods and nipples
Cloth tape, Cinelli often used red on chrome bikes,
Red toe straps ALE or Binda
An ALE waterbottle.
I would consider new spoke nipples and maybe even new spokes, it reads as this bike came with chrome spokes, period new replacements are around.
New tires of course
An Italian language newspaper to roll up the spare tubular in. Use one of the old toe straps to secure.
I would leave the saddle unless you want to go Brooks Professional or modified B17
If you want to ride the bike for any serious miles the brake blocks are killers, great for show, but you need a set of fresh blocks and holders.
A CInelli in my size has been too elusive for me yet.
The chrome stem with badge is a fun feature.
I have a bike from 1961 with the same set up sans badge, no anno bars and steel stem, I wonder if Cinelli made some stems just for the alloy bars, as the clamp area is larger than the steel bars.
#67
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 222
Bikes: 2010 Niner EMD, 2008 Surly Steamroller, 2007 Giant OCR.
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Those are the pads that came on the bike. There's a chance they are not the originals, but as far as I know they could be. I'll need to change them, they are completely dried out and hardened.
#68
Senior Member
Maybe they're petrified original Uni's. NOS ones are available on ebay, for an arm and a leg, but in my experience they aren't great stoppers. I just switched out the ones on my Frejus of similar time frame so I didn't kill myself.
#69
Senior Member
I would look at the wear of the cones and compare that to the wear on the hub races. Also, I wonder if the front and back lock nuts are 65.
#70
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 3,022
Bikes: '53/'54 Bianchi CDM, '62ish Altenburger Cinelli Mod B, '69 Rene Herse Competition, '72 Motobecane Grand Record, '73-74 Colnago Super,, '73-74 Cinelli SC, '78ish counterfeit Confente, '82 Medici Gran Turismo, '67ish Mondia Speciale, Eddy Merckx Pro
Liked 303 Times
in
100 Posts
My '65 Mercian (which is date stamped and confirmed by the factory) came with "No Record" hubs. I can't recall what year the lock nuts are.
#74
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 222
Bikes: 2010 Niner EMD, 2008 Surly Steamroller, 2007 Giant OCR.
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Update!
Still working away slowly, things are coming together very nicely. I'm amazed to find many of these parts are in such great condition as I break them down.
My most recent big project was the front wheel. It has been completely disassembled and rebuilt with a new (to me) rim, the same Fiamme Red Label that came stock on the bike. Scraped the old glue off with a screwdriver, steel wool, WD-40, and lots of patience. Spokes were cleaned individually with steel wool; nipples were individually cleaned with a Dremel and brass brush. Mother's polished up the hub and rims very nicely.
The hub has no damage, just a very narrow ring of wear around the cones but that is it. Repacked with new bearings and Phil Wood grease, it feels amazing and spins forever.
I would never recommend building a wheel with used nipples and spokes - that is, unless it's something like this . It actually came together very nicely. Still needs final tensioning, but otherwise done. I'm estimating about 10 cumulative hours for the whole project. Enjoy the pics.
Still working away slowly, things are coming together very nicely. I'm amazed to find many of these parts are in such great condition as I break them down.
My most recent big project was the front wheel. It has been completely disassembled and rebuilt with a new (to me) rim, the same Fiamme Red Label that came stock on the bike. Scraped the old glue off with a screwdriver, steel wool, WD-40, and lots of patience. Spokes were cleaned individually with steel wool; nipples were individually cleaned with a Dremel and brass brush. Mother's polished up the hub and rims very nicely.
The hub has no damage, just a very narrow ring of wear around the cones but that is it. Repacked with new bearings and Phil Wood grease, it feels amazing and spins forever.
I would never recommend building a wheel with used nipples and spokes - that is, unless it's something like this . It actually came together very nicely. Still needs final tensioning, but otherwise done. I'm estimating about 10 cumulative hours for the whole project. Enjoy the pics.
#75
Veni, Vidi, Bici
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,116
Bikes: Colnagos (2005 Brera Art, 2007 President LdV, 2007 CF6)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times
in
5 Posts
Your wheels look amazing. They really cleaned up well. Are they original to the bike? The reason I ask is because I was told that Fiammes like yours, which lack text above the helmet, are late 60's to around 1970. Yours are identical to what I used to restore my ca. '70 Masi. Masi Bob (Hovey) told me that early to mid-60's Fiammes say Brev. Longhi or something like that above the helmet. I'm more curious than anything else. It's so hard, at least for me, to pin down when Fiammes were in production.