dontpassthefenc

I agree with this man^^ bend the **** out of a hi-ten, doesnt matter. But any heat treated or hardened steel/alloy is gonna do that^^

rustybrown

Horrendous.

Where are your lawyer lips?

Yes, metal does have a fatigue point. OP's rocking 2ish mms on both sides. Would ride.

sillygolem

There's a fairly good chance you'll be able to adjust the pads on the old brakes low enough to reach your new rims.

ianjk

(100mm-91mm)/2 != 2

matkdel

Okay, first things first:

My wheels arrived yesterday (incredible saturday delivery). I spoke with velomine about my anorexic fork and he suggested that, since the bearings are sealed, I don't really have to use the cone and locknuts, but that it might mess with the wheel spacing. I don't know which of the two nuts on the right he's talking about and I'm not really sure what he means by wheel spacing.



Second, I cleaned up and reassembled my old crankset with the intent of using it on this build.



For the moment, I'm going to take the risk with 170mm



Clearly the threads for the sprocket on my new backwheel are at some standard chainline, while my bottom bracket and crankset are at a different standard. I don't have crankpullers to reattach my cranks, but I've been trying to estimate the difference in chainline between the two. Can I make an accurate estimate without fully attached cranks, or will I only know when I take it to my LBS and get everything sorted?


(I know I'm on the freewheel side)

PS does anybody know how to resize images?

hairnet

You need the "cones" in your hub. The cones in this case don't affect the bearings but they still serve a purpose; without them nothing will be holding the axle in place.

sillygolem

Axle spacing comes from the combination of cones and washers on the axle. For a five speed, there should be 120mm of space between the chainstays. In practice, especially with hi-ten, the chainstays may be a little closer together, and the washers on the axle push them out a little bit when you put the wheel in. It's possible to push chainstays on a steel bike out even further, say 126mm to fit a 6 speed wheel and cogs. However, you can't really go the other way and fit a narrower hub, i.e. 110mm used in old track hubs and coaster brake hubs. Instead, you get a longer axle and add washers to make up the space.

The width quoted for your hub is for the hub with cones and spacers.

As for the chainline, you may be surprised at how close it is once you have it on the bike. With an evenly dished wheel and a 68mm BB, the inner ring should be almost perfectly in line with a freewheel. I'd try fitting things together first.