drive train trouble
#1
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drive train trouble
Hey all. I've been having issues with my drive train when I skid or apply back pressure. My chain skips of my chain ring which leads to a series of events where it locks up the back wheel since it tightens around bottom bracket shell (like a moving rotafix).
I have no idea why its doing this. I've already addressed the following issues and none seem to be the problem:
My chainline is bang on.
My chain tension is good.
My chainring is pretty close to centre.
Could it be that I'm running a 3/32 chain ring with a 1/8 cog and chain? Is it that my cog is stampedI have a steel frame so is it possible that im torquing the BB area of the bike enough to put the chain line off?
Let me know if there is anything I'm over looking.
I have no idea why its doing this. I've already addressed the following issues and none seem to be the problem:
My chainline is bang on.
My chain tension is good.
My chainring is pretty close to centre.
Could it be that I'm running a 3/32 chain ring with a 1/8 cog and chain? Is it that my cog is stampedI have a steel frame so is it possible that im torquing the BB area of the bike enough to put the chain line off?
Let me know if there is anything I'm over looking.
#2
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You should not run 3/32 chain with 1/8 cog and chainring. 3/32 chain is too narrow so the 1/8 teeth won't go through the links. Change the chain to 1/8.
#5
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I don't have enough experience to offer any helpful suggestions, I just know that plenty of people run 3/32 chainrings or cogs with 1/8" stuff without issue.
#6
I've seen this problem happen when there's a stiff or damaged link in the chain - or even a damaged tooth on the chainring or cog - but the chain has to be pretty loose to actually jump off.
Last edited by Scrodzilla; 11-25-11 at 12:11 AM.
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#8
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upon closer inspection of the chain there was a bit of stiffness near the 1/2 link i installed and one really wonky looking link at a different point in the chain. i'll address these issues and see if it helps. thanks for the input.
#9
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The chainring is for a singlespeed, right? Meaning, there are no ramps or pins on it that would facilitate the chain easily slipping off.
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#11
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Road rings often have shorter teeth overall, compared to a SS ring, and some have 4-6 teeth that are even shorter than the rest. This can enhance derailability.
Sure seems like there's something else going on here as well. dunno what it could be.
Sure seems like there's something else going on here as well. dunno what it could be.
#13
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Sometimes the best way to find the problem in this situation is to borrow things from friends. Borrow a chain and see if you can jump the chain. If it still jump, borrow a chain ring. If it still jumps, borrow a cog. One of those parts has to be he problem.
#14
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I'm gonna echo what Scrod said about checking for stiff links. Also, chain tension, especially with crappy nuts and bumpy roads can go from good to uh-oh status during even a short ride. Consider chain tensioners?