Lube it or lose it...
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Sherman Oaks, CA
Posts: 314
Bikes: Specialized Crossroads Elite, Specialized Trcross Comp
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Lube it or lose it...
Can anyone tell me when a "wet" lubricant vs. a "dry" lubricant should be used and what the difference between the two is? I ride in mostly dry, hot conditions, and have been using Triflow for lubing my chain, which goes on pretty wet. It does a good job of keeping the chain lubed, but seems to pick up a lot of dirt and grime after I ride for a few weeks. I do wipe off the excess lubricant with a rag after I finish lubing the chain, but it still seems to get dirty fairly quickly. If a dry lubricant would be a better choice, does anyone have a recommendation?
#2
Senior Member
I'll probably get flamed off my saddle for this, but I'm still using White Lightning, which dries to sort of a waxy finish that doesn't attract dirt so much. I've never really heard the terms "wet lubricant" or "dry lubricant," so I'm not sure which category White Lighting falls into. Are you referring to something like powdered graphite when you say "dry" lubricant?
#3
Señior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 13,749
Bikes: Windsor Fens, Giant Seek 0 (2014, Alfine 8 + discs)
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 446 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times
in
7 Posts
I ride in very dirty conditions, and there isn't a lube made that's dry enough to repel the dirt I ride through. I just use motor oil.
In the winter I use DuPont teflon+wax spray, because it's cold out and I don't want to spend much time doing maintenance. I can spray the chain and wipe it back down in 2 minutes with that stuff.
In the winter I use DuPont teflon+wax spray, because it's cold out and I don't want to spend much time doing maintenance. I can spray the chain and wipe it back down in 2 minutes with that stuff.
__________________
Work: the 8 hours that separates bike rides.
Work: the 8 hours that separates bike rides.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 11,375
Bikes: '08 Surly Cross-Check, 2011 Redline Conquest Pro, 2012 Spesh FSR Comp EVO, 2015 Trek Domane 6.2 disc
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
6 Posts
"Dry" lubricants are lighter weight lubes, often containing an evaporative carrier with teflon. Apply it lightly, run it in on the stand to penetrate the rollers, wipe it clean and you get a chain that doesn't have a gloopy coating of stuff on it to pick up a lot of dirt, dust, and grit (although, as ItsJustMe pointed out, if you ride in really dirt/dust prone conditions then almost nothing will solve it totally.)
"Wet" lubricants are high viscosity and coat everything with a protective barrier of gloop. Great for super muddy MTB and CX courses, commuting in the rain or snow (unless it's super-duper-cold) or any conditions where your chain might see prolonged exposure to water. The downside is that wet lubes suspend particles of everything, eventually turning a wet lubricant into a grinding paste if you don't thoroughly clean and relube frequently.
"Wet" lubricants are high viscosity and coat everything with a protective barrier of gloop. Great for super muddy MTB and CX courses, commuting in the rain or snow (unless it's super-duper-cold) or any conditions where your chain might see prolonged exposure to water. The downside is that wet lubes suspend particles of everything, eventually turning a wet lubricant into a grinding paste if you don't thoroughly clean and relube frequently.
__________________
"I feel like my world was classier before I found cyclocross."
- Mandi M.
"I feel like my world was classier before I found cyclocross."
- Mandi M.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Kingsport, TN
Posts: 270
Bikes: 2007 Schwinn Le Tour
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Recently switched to DuPont Chain Saver. It is very similar to the special lube you get when you buy a brand new SRAM chain. It sprays on wet but dries up to a pale yellow color later on. It lubes the chain well and doesn't seems to attract dirt.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003OBP63S/
You can find it at the motocycle or auto section at Wal-Mart for cheaper than it is at Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003OBP63S/
You can find it at the motocycle or auto section at Wal-Mart for cheaper than it is at Amazon.
#6
Living the Dream
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: DFW Metroplex
Posts: 449
Bikes: 2015 AWOL Frameset with custom drivetrain, 20?? Windsor Tourist, 2010 Specialized Secteur
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I've tried quite a few lubes so far, (been riding again for 4yrs) and I've decided that I like the dry lubes.
I tried wax lubes and the chain was always noisy. I tried wet lubes and the chain was always dirty. With dry lubes the chain isn't as quiet, but it isn't as dirty at the end of the week.
As for brands, I like Pedro's Extra Dry and Performance's Spin Doctor Dry Lube.
For this last chain, I've tried an experiment. I haven't used any degreaser or cleaner at all. When I want to clean the chain, I oil it and wipe it down with a clean rag. It gets clean and stays well lubed.
Before, I was getting about 3k miles out of a chain before the chain checker read .75
On this chain, I've gotten 2900 miles and I'm still at .50
I'm spending less time and hassle cleaning the chain and its lasting longer.
I tried wax lubes and the chain was always noisy. I tried wet lubes and the chain was always dirty. With dry lubes the chain isn't as quiet, but it isn't as dirty at the end of the week.
As for brands, I like Pedro's Extra Dry and Performance's Spin Doctor Dry Lube.
For this last chain, I've tried an experiment. I haven't used any degreaser or cleaner at all. When I want to clean the chain, I oil it and wipe it down with a clean rag. It gets clean and stays well lubed.
Before, I was getting about 3k miles out of a chain before the chain checker read .75
On this chain, I've gotten 2900 miles and I'm still at .50
I'm spending less time and hassle cleaning the chain and its lasting longer.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Henderson/Las Vegas NV
Posts: 1,498
Bikes: Giant Defy 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I use nothing but Boeshield T.9 dry lube. I live in the desert and wet lubes just create a mess. My chains and frankly the entire drive line are always shiny new looking and the bike only ever needs dusting off. I've seen no wear at all. I can grab my chain in my fist and nothing come off of it in my hand. Sold. Sold. Sold.
I rode my two newest bikes about 250 miles each to allow the drive lines to settle in. Yesterday I started transitioning to the T9. It takes two or 3 cleanings to get the factory oil leached out completely and the dry lube worked in.
I rode my two newest bikes about 250 miles each to allow the drive lines to settle in. Yesterday I started transitioning to the T9. It takes two or 3 cleanings to get the factory oil leached out completely and the dry lube worked in.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 11,375
Bikes: '08 Surly Cross-Check, 2011 Redline Conquest Pro, 2012 Spesh FSR Comp EVO, 2015 Trek Domane 6.2 disc
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
6 Posts
GLEITMO is a bit on the sticky side, so if you're in a parched desert I'd get rid of it and go with a teflon or wax lube.
__________________
"I feel like my world was classier before I found cyclocross."
- Mandi M.
"I feel like my world was classier before I found cyclocross."
- Mandi M.
#9
New Orleans
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,794
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 157 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
Boeshield T 9 -nothing getting on hand-pants-yeah I have to try that!
I hate that grungy black crap you get on hands clothes etc
T 9 or T .9 ?
Where do you find it-ebay?
Charlie
I hate that grungy black crap you get on hands clothes etc
T 9 or T .9 ?
Where do you find it-ebay?
Charlie
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 1,840
Bikes: Bianchi San Remo - set up as a utility bike, Peter Mooney Road bike, Peter Mooney commute bike,Dahon Folder,Schwinn Paramount Tandem
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
When I lived in Maine, where there were wet, snowy conditions, I used a wet lube, and cleaned and relubed the chain relativley frequently. I now live in San Jose, where there is no weather, I use a mixture of parrafin and beeswax - I keep the mixture in a cheap crock-pot, and when I want to do the chain, I heat up the pot, then remove the chain, do a quick wipe to get the surface gunk off of it, and then put it in the crock pot to soak for ~20 mins. Take it out, let it cool, and then put it back on the bike. The wax doesn't pick up road grime the way oil does, and everything stays much cleaner. I do this about every 500-1000 miles. A more detailed explanation of the process can be found here
#11
Señior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 13,749
Bikes: Windsor Fens, Giant Seek 0 (2014, Alfine 8 + discs)
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 446 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times
in
7 Posts
I tried Boeshield T9, for me it didn't perform any better than anything else, but others swear by the stuff so there must be something to it. I think it's likely to work well for many people but don't think it's going to be magic for everyone.
Personally I'm planning on going to belt drive and solve the whole thing that way.
Personally I'm planning on going to belt drive and solve the whole thing that way.
__________________
Work: the 8 hours that separates bike rides.
Work: the 8 hours that separates bike rides.
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 14,832
Bikes: Yes
Mentioned: 532 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3288 Post(s)
Liked 4,056 Times
in
1,498 Posts
"Dry" lubricants are lighter weight lubes, often containing an evaporative carrier with teflon. Apply it lightly, run it in on the stand to penetrate the rollers, wipe it clean and you get a chain that doesn't have a gloopy coating of stuff on it to pick up a lot of dirt, dust, and grit (although, as ItsJustMe pointed out, if you ride in really dirt/dust prone conditions then almost nothing will solve it totally.)
"Wet" lubricants are high viscosity and coat everything with a protective barrier of gloop. Great for super muddy MTB and CX courses, commuting in the rain or snow (unless it's super-duper-cold) or any conditions where your chain might see prolonged exposure to water. The downside is that wet lubes suspend particles of everything, eventually turning a wet lubricant into a grinding paste if you don't thoroughly clean and relube frequently.
"Wet" lubricants are high viscosity and coat everything with a protective barrier of gloop. Great for super muddy MTB and CX courses, commuting in the rain or snow (unless it's super-duper-cold) or any conditions where your chain might see prolonged exposure to water. The downside is that wet lubes suspend particles of everything, eventually turning a wet lubricant into a grinding paste if you don't thoroughly clean and relube frequently.
I use Finish Line Wet in the falwinterspring during which we get rain every day for nine to ten months. The stuff gets incredibly messy, but it keeps the chain lubed. Lighter lubes wash off very quickly. During the summer I switch to ProLink chain lube. I don't know if this strictly qualifies as a "dry" lube, but if I let it sit overnight and then wipe it clean in the morning it keeps my chain running smooth and quiet for a couple of weeks without too much mess.
__________________
My Bikes
My Bikes
#13
Mad bike riding scientist
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27,480
Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6284 Post(s)
Liked 4,323 Times
in
2,422 Posts
"Dry" lubricants are lighter weight lubes, often containing an evaporative carrier with teflon. Apply it lightly, run it in on the stand to penetrate the rollers, wipe it clean and you get a chain that doesn't have a gloopy coating of stuff on it to pick up a lot of dirt, dust, and grit (although, as ItsJustMe pointed out, if you ride in really dirt/dust prone conditions then almost nothing will solve it totally.)
"Wet" lubricants are high viscosity and coat everything with a protective barrier of gloop. Great for super muddy MTB and CX courses, commuting in the rain or snow (unless it's super-duper-cold) or any conditions where your chain might see prolonged exposure to water. The downside is that wet lubes suspend particles of everything, eventually turning a wet lubricant into a grinding paste if you don't thoroughly clean and relube frequently.
"Wet" lubricants are high viscosity and coat everything with a protective barrier of gloop. Great for super muddy MTB and CX courses, commuting in the rain or snow (unless it's super-duper-cold) or any conditions where your chain might see prolonged exposure to water. The downside is that wet lubes suspend particles of everything, eventually turning a wet lubricant into a grinding paste if you don't thoroughly clean and relube frequently.
Wet lubes are lower viscosity oils that are also dissolved in a solvent. They coat everything and readily flow out of the chain's interior. They are self replenishing but they are also thin enough that contaminants get trapped in the oil coating.
For dry and dusty conditions, dry lubes like White Lightning are ideal.
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#14
bored of "Senior Member"
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: MD / metro DC
Posts: 2,891
Bikes: Cross-Check/Nexus commuter. Several others for various forms of play.
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 646 Post(s)
Liked 600 Times
in
458 Posts
I was a fan of dry stuff when I lived in Utah, but have been near DC for a decade now and with the rain and such I need me some wet. I am still working my way through a stash of Pro Link which seems to be kind of in-between and does me right with a decent compromise between rust (the pitfall of too dry a lube in a wet environ) and gunk (the pitfall of too wet a lube).
I guess I should get with the 21st century and stop cleaning off the "shipping grease" of those new chains. D'oh.
#15
Kitten Legion Master
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 900
Bikes: Fuji silhouette, Dawes SST-aL
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Dry lubes are dry, like graphite, and wax based. Wet lubes are wet, often a synthetic, some have additives like teflon. Wet lubes vary in viscosity, depending what you use.
#16
Riding like its 1990
been using Finish line dry and will start with prolink and see how it goes. I was using tri-flow dry and it seemed like I was lubing every 100 miles.
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Henderson/Las Vegas NV
Posts: 1,498
Bikes: Giant Defy 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
In rare cases (Henderson being one) do I suggest getting rid of the factory lubricant. Most companies use GLEITMO as their stock lube, and that stuff is awesome! Stock out of the box, most chains are ready to go without anything additional.
GLEITMO is a bit on the sticky side, so if you're in a parched desert I'd get rid of it and go with a teflon or wax lube.
GLEITMO is a bit on the sticky side, so if you're in a parched desert I'd get rid of it and go with a teflon or wax lube.
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Henderson/Las Vegas NV
Posts: 1,498
Bikes: Giant Defy 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
https://boeshield.com/
#19
Saving gas on my commute
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 511
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I have yet to try Boeshield T9. I am currently using Prolink. We've been getting a fair amount of rain here lately, and I've found that the Prolink does a pretty good job of keeping the chain lubed during and after a rain commute. I have considered Boeshield, so I may try some on my fair weather road bike.
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Henderson/Las Vegas NV
Posts: 1,498
Bikes: Giant Defy 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I tried Boeshield T9, for me it didn't perform any better than anything else, but others swear by the stuff so there must be something to it. I think it's likely to work well for many people but don't think it's going to be magic for everyone.
Personally I'm planning on going to belt drive and solve the whole thing that way.
Personally I'm planning on going to belt drive and solve the whole thing that way.
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Henderson/Las Vegas NV
Posts: 1,498
Bikes: Giant Defy 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
You've got it backwards. Dry lubricants are higher molecular weight ('heavier') lubricants like waxes that are dissolved in a solvent which may, or may not, contain other additives. Once the solvent evaporates, the heavier lubricant stays in place and won't flow out of the interior of the chain. The reason it doesn't pick up dirt and grit is because there is nothing to stick to. It also isn't self replenishing...i.e. doesn't flow out of the interior of the chain to replace lubricant that is worn away.
Wet lubes are lower viscosity oils that are also dissolved in a solvent. They coat everything and readily flow out of the chain's interior. They are self replenishing but they are also thin enough that contaminants get trapped in the oil coating.
For dry and dusty conditions, dry lubes like White Lightning are ideal.
Wet lubes are lower viscosity oils that are also dissolved in a solvent. They coat everything and readily flow out of the chain's interior. They are self replenishing but they are also thin enough that contaminants get trapped in the oil coating.
For dry and dusty conditions, dry lubes like White Lightning are ideal.
#22
Kitten Legion Master
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 900
Bikes: Fuji silhouette, Dawes SST-aL
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
So far, I am digging superlube aerosol.
#23
Kitten Legion Master
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 900
Bikes: Fuji silhouette, Dawes SST-aL
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
So far, I am digging superlube aerosol.