Hot r Not
#8101
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Lund, Sweden
Posts: 323
Bikes: Ridley Noah, Trek Emonda, Colnago C59, Colnago Master, 1980 Colnago Super, Wilier Blade
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Specialized Allez Epic Carbon-14
Radiocarbon dating and credit card receipts put it at 1990. This is the dinosaur that started it all for Specialized :-) (non-original brifters, seatpost and saddle)
Last edited by kingfishr; 05-08-12 at 07:43 AM.
#8103
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 39,521
Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo
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Someone a block over used to have one of those - kept it outside, chained to a tree, which I never thought was right...
#8104
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Elk Grove
Posts: 772
Bikes: 2013 Specialized S Works SL4 Keyline Red
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#8106
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,468
Bikes: 2011 Cervelo S2, 2001Trek USPS 5200, 06 Cervelo P3 Alum, 1999 Schwinn Pro Stock BMX, 1987 Schwinn Traveler
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totally seat-of-pants, it feels much faster when riding into the wind. its also a MUCH harsher ride, definitely stiffer.
i think the VWD is a waste of money. you could make the argument when comparing the S2 & S3 as they are different frames, but the S5 Team and VWD are identical frames (other than the carbon layup), they also have identical forks. $2,100 for a 200g saving doesn't make sense! that's why i chose to get a set of 404 firecrests instead, and get the Team frame.
i think the VWD is a waste of money. you could make the argument when comparing the S2 & S3 as they are different frames, but the S5 Team and VWD are identical frames (other than the carbon layup), they also have identical forks. $2,100 for a 200g saving doesn't make sense! that's why i chose to get a set of 404 firecrests instead, and get the Team frame.
Never the less. Great job on the S5. It looks brilliant. Even with the squid crank.
#8107
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Bristol, UK
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#8108
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 855
Bikes: Surly Disc Trucker, Ribble Nero Corsa, Surly Karate Monkey, Surly Ice Cream Truck, Cannondale MT800, Evil Insurgent
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#8109
Don't really have a bike.
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Wenatchee, WA
Posts: 3,355
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whoa, not
#8110
King Hoternot
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 5,255
Bikes: 2015 Cannondale Evo Hi mod
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You gotta fix that saddle, like NOW. Cut that steering tube and why in Gods name did you mount your hood so high on the bars? Personal opinion here, I would take off the blue bar tape and throw on black or Charcoal.
This bike has potential, but not the way it is currently set up.
I feel a Photoshop coming up for me to show you the potential this bike has.
This bike has potential, but not the way it is currently set up.
I feel a Photoshop coming up for me to show you the potential this bike has.
#8111
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,468
Bikes: 2011 Cervelo S2, 2001Trek USPS 5200, 06 Cervelo P3 Alum, 1999 Schwinn Pro Stock BMX, 1987 Schwinn Traveler
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Think of the energy savings in the summertime keeping that thing around.
#8112
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 855
Bikes: Surly Disc Trucker, Ribble Nero Corsa, Surly Karate Monkey, Surly Ice Cream Truck, Cannondale MT800, Evil Insurgent
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You gotta fix that saddle, like NOW. Cut that steering tube and why in Gods name did you mount your hood so high on the bars? Personal opinion here, I would take off the blue bar tape and throw on black or Charcoal.
This bike has potential, but not the way it is currently set up.
I feel a Photoshop coming up for me to show you the potential this bike has.
This bike has potential, but not the way it is currently set up.
I feel a Photoshop coming up for me to show you the potential this bike has.
Steerer tube is definitely getting chopped as soon as I can take it back apart, just haven't had time lately.
Would really like to switch to a compact drop bar . I got that bar for free from a friend and I like where the hoods are, but the drops are a bit deep. Still trying to decide on that so I can take it apart, chop the steerer tube and perhaps replace the bars at the same time.
The saddle is actually level, just the design is high in the back because that's how it's made. the middle "pocket" where I actually sit is actually level, the nose has a bit of drop and the rear is flared up to push against when climbing.
#8113
King Hoternot
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 5,255
Bikes: 2015 Cannondale Evo Hi mod
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If you say so. The rails on the saddle looks level but the top of the saddle still looks tiled down.
Just for fun....
(obviously, the seat post is not the same angle as SA's)
Just for fun....
(obviously, the seat post is not the same angle as SA's)
#8114
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Northern California
Posts: 72
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If you have to ride your saddle tilted down that much, then you should consider lowering the seatpost.
#8116
Mostly Harmless
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: At Large
Posts: 57,071
Bikes: Have two wheels
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Hot.
#8117
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: So Cal
Posts: 1,657
Bikes: Cervelo S2, Workswell 062, Banshee Spitfire
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I have a Romin also. Here is how my saddle is set up.
Last edited by I <3 Robots; 05-07-12 at 09:39 PM.
#8119
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 855
Bikes: Surly Disc Trucker, Ribble Nero Corsa, Surly Karate Monkey, Surly Ice Cream Truck, Cannondale MT800, Evil Insurgent
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I appreciate all the constructive advice. I tilted my saddle down and used a level to check my work. I also rotated my handlebar down a bit. I am probably going to move the shifters down a hair when I replace the bar tape. I am going to chop the steer tube down as well; I'm sick of looking at it!
(edit, chopped the steerer! No going back now)
Hopefully this is an improvement until I can change the bars and install new bar tape.
(edit, chopped the steerer! No going back now)
Hopefully this is an improvement until I can change the bars and install new bar tape.
Last edited by twodownzero; 05-08-12 at 10:50 AM.
#8120
who's yer daddy?
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Toronto, CANADA
Posts: 261
Bikes: '13 Parlee Z5 SLi, '12 Cervelo S5, '11 Cervelo Norwegian S3
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Gotcha. I am in complete agreement with your thoughts on the VWD being a waste of money. However, for me going to the S5 Team, would add a good bit of mass. The seatpost on an S5 is 220g, my saddle/post is 40g less than that. The frames are about the same, and the fork is 20g grams lighter, but you have to have 20mm more steerer so that's about 10g more right there. I've also thought about going with a Scapula F fork, but I'm going to have to start doing better at races before I can justify rewarding myself with new bike crap. It's just hard for someone like me to justify buying a $3,800 frameset, that inevitably would make my bike heavier. That is the reason I decided to put more aero bars on my S2, and possibly will be doing the Tri-Rig brake on the front in the near future. I want to try and make it as aero as possible, but still light, and not blow a ton of money.
Never the less. Great job on the S5. It looks brilliant. Even with the squid crank.
Never the less. Great job on the S5. It looks brilliant. Even with the squid crank.
cheers
#8121
i'm pretty sure that the slight weight gain will be more than offset by the aero advantage the bike has. especially riding into wind. but i agree with you completely on the justification part. you already have a fantastic bike (sub 14lb ), if you don't have cash burning a hole in your pocket, it makes no sense
cheers
cheers
#8122
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 21
Bikes: '17 Trek Domane SL6 Disc, '14 Diamondback/Lapierre Aerostorm, '08 Trek Madone 4.5
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A 53/39 crankset with an 11-25 cassette is what I'd like (which would encourage me to 'man up' on hills), but with the BBright, I'm looking at some serious $$$. I have 50/34 11-25 on my Madone, and top out at about 42-43mph (unless I'm heading down a steep hill).... not that I 'need' to go faster than that, but it'd be nice to know I could. We can never go too fast, right?
#8123
who's yer daddy?
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Toronto, CANADA
Posts: 261
Bikes: '13 Parlee Z5 SLi, '12 Cervelo S5, '11 Cervelo Norwegian S3
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Thanks! Yeah, right after my post, I realized you probably just bought the frame.
A 53/39 crankset with an 11-25 cassette is what I'd like (which would encourage me to 'man up' on hills), but with the BBright, I'm looking at some serious $$$. I have 50/34 11-25 on my Madone, and top out at about 42-43mph (unless I'm heading down a steep hill).... not that I 'need' to go faster than that, but it'd be nice to know I could. We can never go too fast, right?
A 53/39 crankset with an 11-25 cassette is what I'd like (which would encourage me to 'man up' on hills), but with the BBright, I'm looking at some serious $$$. I have 50/34 11-25 on my Madone, and top out at about 42-43mph (unless I'm heading down a steep hill).... not that I 'need' to go faster than that, but it'd be nice to know I could. We can never go too fast, right?
i like to stay in the 90rpm +/-
#8124
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I appreciate all the constructive advice. I tilted my saddle down and used a level to check my work. I also rotated my handlebar down a bit. I am probably going to move the shifters down a hair when I replace the bar tape. I am going to chop the steer tube down as well; I'm sick of looking at it!
(edit, chopped the steerer! No going back now)
Hopefully this is an improvement until I can change the bars and install new bar tape.
(edit, chopped the steerer! No going back now)
Hopefully this is an improvement until I can change the bars and install new bar tape.