How do I remove cable stops and kickstand?
05-05-12, 03:57 PM
#1
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How do I remove cable stops and kickstand?
Greetings, Comrades!
I am converting an old Schwinn Varsity (yes, it doubles as an anchor) to a single speed with a coaster brake. I'd like to remove the cable stops and kickstand. Anybody have experience with this? How did you do it?
Thanks,
Sprayman
I am converting an old Schwinn Varsity (yes, it doubles as an anchor) to a single speed with a coaster brake. I'd like to remove the cable stops and kickstand. Anybody have experience with this? How did you do it?
Thanks,
Sprayman
05-05-12, 04:00 PM
#2
Your cog is slipping.
Pliers and/or a Dremel.
05-05-12, 04:06 PM
#3
Fixie Infamous
Hack saw, you have the cut the tubing in half, and remove them from the inside.
It sounds weird, but you'll see what i mean when you get the frame split.
It sounds weird, but you'll see what i mean when you get the frame split.
05-05-12, 07:05 PM
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Cut and file.
05-05-12, 07:51 PM
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https://www.ehow.com/how_10038984_kic...n-varsity.html
Park actually makes a specific tool for this style of kickstand. As far as the cable stops go, file/cut them off, or just leave them and ride the bastard.
Park actually makes a specific tool for this style of kickstand. As far as the cable stops go, file/cut them off, or just leave them and ride the bastard.
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05-05-12, 08:49 PM
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I'd leave the Schwinn frame in tact. The bike as you already call it, doubles as an anchor, so the frame being left in tact for the next build/owner seems like a decent thing to do and give that the option of a restoration to a geared bike ? It's being converted to a single speed with a coaster brake, not like it's going to be a FG conversion, which that becomes an option if you keep the cable guides attached.
(although I think you are kidding)
05-06-12, 10:47 AM
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05-06-12, 10:48 AM
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05-06-12, 10:50 AM
#13
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Yeah, I wasn't going to try to muscle that thing off. It's just that it weighs a ton. Maybe I'll just live with it. Thanks for the tip.
05-06-12, 10:55 AM
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I'd leave the Schwinn frame in tact. The bike as you already call it, doubles as an anchor, so the frame being left in tact for the next build/owner seems like a decent thing to do and give that the option of a restoration to a geared bike ? It's being converted to a single speed with a coaster brake, not like it's going to be a FG conversion, which that becomes an option if you keep the cable guides attached.
05-06-12, 10:58 AM
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05-06-12, 11:48 AM
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If you have access to a porta bandsaw it would make quick work of cutting things off. Fortunately I have access to one daily for work. A sawzall isn't bad but the blades being long can be a pain. Grinders work but can be a pain as well. I didn't use a dremel on my bike but having used it for work it seems slow and you use up blades pretty quick cutting metal but it could just be me and my dislike for dremels since I haven't had luck with them in the past lol.
05-06-12, 09:03 PM
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Leave the cable guides alone and just buy a top tube pad ?
05-06-12, 09:16 PM
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You're gonna go far, kid.
Relevant: That kickstand plate is _very_ securely attached to the chainstays/bottom bracket shell. You'll need a die grinder and a rotary cutting cool. Pneumatic is best. Or, you know, get a better frame.
Relevant: That kickstand plate is _very_ securely attached to the chainstays/bottom bracket shell. You'll need a die grinder and a rotary cutting cool. Pneumatic is best. Or, you know, get a better frame.
05-06-12, 09:42 PM
#19
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Now, as to your suggestion that I just get a better frame.......aw, hell, I can't explain why I want to fix up this one, probably because I'm not so sure myself. It followed me home one day and I want to see if I can do a "trash to treasures" number on it before it ends up in the dump. I'm going to dig through my old parts box and scour through the local bike co-op to build it up, and then give it a rattle-can paint job. Why not?
05-07-12, 12:04 AM
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Yeah, I think I'll just leave it on. I'm neither equipped nor qualified to take it off myself and it's not that big of a problem, anyway.
Now, as to your suggestion that I just get a better frame.......aw, hell, I can't explain why I want to fix up this one, probably because I'm not so sure myself. It followed me home one day and I want to see if I can do a "trash to treasures" number on it before it ends up in the dump. I'm going to dig through my old parts box and scour through the local bike co-op to build it up, and then give it a rattle-can paint job. Why not?
Now, as to your suggestion that I just get a better frame.......aw, hell, I can't explain why I want to fix up this one, probably because I'm not so sure myself. It followed me home one day and I want to see if I can do a "trash to treasures" number on it before it ends up in the dump. I'm going to dig through my old parts box and scour through the local bike co-op to build it up, and then give it a rattle-can paint job. Why not?
05-07-12, 06:37 PM
#21
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Because you'll still end up with a crappy bike. You want a labor of love, fine, embrace it. You'll be better served by starting with a higher quality, lighter frame that's better suited to being ridden on the road. The Schwinn Varsity was one of many bikes produced in the era which was meant to be purchased, not ridden. You can do a hell of a lot better by watching craigslist for a week.
05-07-12, 07:02 PM
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Fixing up a bike by removing what was intended to be on there? they were there for a reason. And they don't affect performance in anyway on a conversion. Leave them on there in the event you sell the frame to buy a nicer frame, it can still be used for it's intended purpose and therefore increase the amount of people who would want to or can use it (i.e. fixed gear riders, single speed riders, and road road riders)
05-07-12, 07:06 PM
#23
Your cog is slipping.
I guess he'd better leave all the derailleurs, shifters and whatnot on there too then - just in case.
05-07-12, 07:12 PM
#25
Your cog is slipping.
Dude, it's a Schwinn Varsity, not a Waterford-made Paramount.
