Entry Level Road Bike, Need opinions
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The Argyle is cheaper because it's made of a cheaper kinda steel than the others. It's made of hi-tensile steel, instead of chromoly steel. Both types of steel are strong, it's just that chromoly steel is slightly stronger. The Nekkid 2 Single Speed has flat handlebars, while the Nekkid 4 has drop handlebars. Drop handlebars offer you more hand positions, but are not as commuter-friendly as flat handlebars. With flat handlebars, the cyclist tends to sit up while riding and he's better able to see the traffic at all times. He doesn't have the option of sitting in a more aggressive race style aerodynamic mode, that's more conducive to speeding, because of less air resistance.
Last edited by SlimRider; 12-01-12 at 05:27 PM.
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Man, the Nekkid 2 Looks pretty awesome, I will be considering it, I really appreciate all your help. I'm sorry to be that annoying guy who is spending so much extra time trying to save $50-$100, I tend to buy high quality things that I use often, I'm just worried i'll buy a bike that's going to sit. That being said, If I raise my budget to $300 is there something on Bikes direct that isn't a single speed that could also be really good?
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Man, the Nekkid 2 Looks pretty awesome, I will be considering it, I really appreciate all your help. I'm sorry to be that annoying guy who is spending so much extra time trying to save $50-$100, I tend to buy high quality things that I use often, I'm just worried i'll buy a bike that's going to sit. That being said, If I raise my budget to $300 is there something on Bikes direct that isn't a single speed that could also be really good?
At the $300 price point, you will see many different bikes with those cheap suspension forks. There's only one thing worse than a cheap multi-geared bike with a cheap drivetrain, and that's a cheap muti-geared bike that has not only got a cheap drivetrain, but a cheap suspension fork too!
You already then know, that the first thing to go will most likely be the fork, if not the rear derailleur. You'd have to go over $300 for anything worth considering on BD, if it's not a single speed.
Really though, what do you have against a single speed, just to commute to work under five miles?
That's just perfect for a single speed! Spend $300 for that Nekkid 2, and be done with it! Slam Dunk! She'll be paid for in fuel in under four months.
Just use this sizing guide:
https://bicycling.about.com/od/howtor...ike_sizing.htm
Last edited by SlimRider; 12-01-12 at 06:22 PM.
#29
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IDK...Let's see!
At the $300 price point, you will see many different bikes with those cheap suspension forks. There's only one thing worse than a cheap multi-geared bike with a cheap drivetrain, and that's a cheap muti-geared bike that has not only got a cheap drivetrain, but a cheap suspension fork too!
You already then know, that the first thing to go will most likely be the fork, if not the rear derailleur. You'd have to go over $300 for anything worth considering on BD, if it's not a single speed.
Really though, what do you have against a single speed, just to commute to work under five miles?
That's just perfect for a single speed! Spend $300 for that Nekkid 2, and be done with it! Slam Dunk! She'll be paid for in fuel in under four months.
Just use this sizing guide:
https://bicycling.about.com/od/howtor...ike_sizing.htm
At the $300 price point, you will see many different bikes with those cheap suspension forks. There's only one thing worse than a cheap multi-geared bike with a cheap drivetrain, and that's a cheap muti-geared bike that has not only got a cheap drivetrain, but a cheap suspension fork too!
You already then know, that the first thing to go will most likely be the fork, if not the rear derailleur. You'd have to go over $300 for anything worth considering on BD, if it's not a single speed.
Really though, what do you have against a single speed, just to commute to work under five miles?
That's just perfect for a single speed! Spend $300 for that Nekkid 2, and be done with it! Slam Dunk! She'll be paid for in fuel in under four months.
Just use this sizing guide:
https://bicycling.about.com/od/howtor...ike_sizing.htm
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Well in that case, go back to the Cannondales!
That white one looked pretty good...
Hey! I thought you were older! You present yourself very well!
PS.
When you referred to commuting to work, I assumed you older!
Last edited by SlimRider; 12-01-12 at 10:28 PM.
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Haha, I am a grown up (I think 25 is grown up), Is riding with your Dad a thing only kids do? My dad in the past few years has gotten into cycling and has done a few 100m-200m trails. I'm pretty small, but pretty out of shape (and a smoker) so i've always been reluctant. But lately i've been hitting every light during my commute and being passed by old men with walkers and cyclists, So I want to give riding to work a try, though i'm a bit scared since there will be a lot of traffic and the road is 45mph. I've also purchased a few too many things this month, which is another factor towards my reluctance in price. I bought a scooter not 6 months ago that is sitting in my shed because i'm too scared to take that to work (though it's harder to ride a shoulder with one of those than a bike) (I put it up on craigslist today, it might help me raise my bike budget). All in all, I want to buy a Bike that won't fall apart in 3 months, will be enjoyable to ride, and if I don't end up riding it that much, I won't feel guilty about it.
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Haha, I am a grown up (I think 25 is grown up), Is riding with your Dad a thing only kids do? My dad in the past few years has gotten into cycling and has done a few 100m-200m trails. I'm pretty small, but pretty out of shape (and a smoker) so i've always been reluctant. But lately i've been hitting every light during my commute and being passed by old men with walkers and cyclists, So I want to give riding to work a try, though i'm a bit scared since there will be a lot of traffic and the road is 45mph. I've also purchased a few too many things this month, which is another factor towards my reluctance in price. I bought a scooter not 6 months ago that is sitting in my shed because i'm too scared to take that to work (though it's harder to ride a shoulder with one of those than a bike) (I put it up on craigslist today, it might help me raise my bike budget). All in all, I want to buy a Bike that won't fall apart in 3 months, will be enjoyable to ride, and if I don't end up riding it that much, I won't feel guilty about it.
It's never safe to assume anything, is it?
*************
So have you decided yet what you're going to do?
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I guess the Nekkid 2, but with shipping it turns in to like $340, so I may wait for them to have another deal (Seems like I should have gotten something last week). Is there a single speed on amazon that looks good? (I'm sorry I keep bringing amazon up, its just I have those $50. but that could go towards a helmet and light i suppose)
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Just take the plunge and pull the trigger!
Let's get this thing rolling!
BTW
There are many single speed cyclists that can keep pace with guys on multi-geared bikes. It all depends upon conditioning.
.....I think you'd better stop smoking, my friend!
****************
If I were you, I'd call Nashbar's customer service and get them to advise me about the correct frame size. Remember, it's always better to err on the smaller side, than on the larger side.
Let's get this thing rolling!
BTW
There are many single speed cyclists that can keep pace with guys on multi-geared bikes. It all depends upon conditioning.
.....I think you'd better stop smoking, my friend!
****************
If I were you, I'd call Nashbar's customer service and get them to advise me about the correct frame size. Remember, it's always better to err on the smaller side, than on the larger side.
Last edited by SlimRider; 12-01-12 at 07:23 PM.
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Well it's saturday, So I can wait till tomorrow night without making a difference, in the mean time I'm going to wait on those 2 craigslists posts. As for size I used 2 different calculators and they say I should get a 53cm/54 frame. So I was thinking about getting the 54 nekkid 2. Do you think I should go for the 52?
#36
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Here is a great deal on a new road bike from BD
https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...y/avenue_b.htm
MicroShift/SunRace 24 Spd 2012 Gravity Avenue B $259
24Spd Semi-Compact AL Frame, Aero Fork & Aluminum Rim Wheels
https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...y/avenue_b.htm
MicroShift/SunRace 24 Spd 2012 Gravity Avenue B $259
24Spd Semi-Compact AL Frame, Aero Fork & Aluminum Rim Wheels
#37
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I just got off the phone with the guy who is selling the white canondale. if it fits, And i can snag it for $250 should I get it? https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/m...447613355.html i'm on my way over there now, will be checking my phone. I think it's a 56, though he measured it himself. It seems like i'll be able to stand without about 1/2" of crotch room.
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I just got off the phone with the guy who is selling the white canondale. if it fits, And i can snag it for $250 should I get it? https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/m...447613355.html i'm on my way over there now, will be checking my phone. I think it's a 56, though he measured it himself. It seems like i'll be able to stand without about 1/2" of crotch room.
Facts:
1) The Old White Cannondale might be purchased for even less than $250, but first, it's actual condition should be checked. It should be thoroughly checked out, but that's only if it fits. If by chance that it does fit, then who will check it out for you?...Perhaps your dad?...Possibly an associate of yours or his...This should be determined first. I wouldn't pay more than $200 for that Old White Cannondale...
Cannondale has been fire tested. There's no question about its brand. If it fits, it might very well last a good long time. On the other hand, used aluminum frames have a fatigue factor that other frame materials don't have. A new aluminum frame could very well be much better in terms of longevity.
You have to answer these questions for yourself:
Is an old aluminum bike that costs $250 going to serve me as well as a brand new aluminum bicycle that costs, just a tad more?
Should I purchase a brand new maintenance free chromoly steel single speed, instead of an old multi-geared, fatigued aluminum bike that's most probably beyond its prime time of service?
Should I prefer a brand new, practically maintenance free, single speed bicycle, that will most likely offer me fewer mechanical problems with my drivetrain, than the multi-geared bicycle that has obscurely named drivetrain components that may or may not be readily available to me a decade or so from now?
2) If the Old White Cannondale falls through and you're made to consider the Gravity Avenue B. That's fine too! I'm not too certain, why we wouldn't consider this one, first. Perhaps, due to the brand of Cannondale vs the brand of Gravity along with those Cannondale 105 components, and the fact that Microshift is still perhaps somewhat of an unknown, installed upon a lesser known bike brand, called Gravity. Also, there's the mysterious matching of the bike's frame size, with that of your own physical frame. Well, at least we know that we're dealing with a brand new aluminum frame, where the fatigue factor is now a remote concept thrown somewhere far away into the distant future.
However for $260, why should anybody give it a second thought, anyway?
3) The single speed is the least considered, only because you've voiced a concern about maintaining pace with your dad. However, in terms of practicality, the single speed is most probably the best candidate of them all, because it's made of chromoly steel (which promises to last at least a couple of decades). Also, the single speed is brand new too, and being steel, it doesn't have such a fatigue factor like that of aluminum. For all practical purposes, it has no fatigue factor, if not abused in routine service. Additionally, unlike the Gravity multi-geared bike, there is no obscure name for derailleurs, because there are no derailleurs. Your drivetrain is simple and practically maintenance free.
You don't have to hassle anyone to be your "expert" in determining if either the Gravity or the Nekkid 2 single speed are decent bikes with decent components, because the Gravity is new and its components have not been negatively critcized over the INTERNET, as of yet. The Nekkid 2 lacks the complication of having a bunch of drivetrain components and therefore, we are relieved of that judgmental responsibility.
These are all things to consider in addition to your other thoughts...
The cost of the Nekkid 2 will be paid for by costs saved from the lack of fuel purchases...
Last edited by SlimRider; 12-02-12 at 03:11 AM.
#39
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I just got off the phone with the guy who is selling the white canondale. if it fits, And i can snag it for $250 should I get it? https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/m...447613355.html i'm on my way over there now, will be checking my phone. I think it's a 56, though he measured it himself. It seems like i'll be able to stand without about 1/2" of crotch room.
If that Cannondale fits, it just may very well be worth it!
PS.
You might be able to squeeze another ten or more years out of her...Who knows?
Last edited by SlimRider; 12-01-12 at 09:17 PM.
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When I was there, I couldn't find the serial Number, but I did when I got home, upon looking it up, it's a 1988 St400 (the bikes a year younger than I am) upon doing more research, I have found that it can be had for $75-$250. So i'm a little bummed about that, but I can tell this bike is going to last me a while.
Oh, and I need to replace the pedals because they are the clip in kind.
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So I acted a little quickly, I checked out the bike and it seemed in pristine condition, little to no rust on any of the parts, the wheels did not wabble. I took it for a spin, and although the seat was too high, it felt like a good fit (especially when I lower that seat down). I didn't manage to get him to budge on the price at all, and I didn't want to lose out on the bike. My reasoning was that for $40 more (the shipping cost) I could get a very low end single speed bike. Or I could get a bike that has been well maintained and has lasted a long time... that being said, I paid $300... thinking it may have been worth more.
When I was there, I couldn't find the serial Number, but I did when I got home, upon looking it up, it's a 1988 St400 (the bikes a year younger than I am) upon doing more research, I have found that it can be had for $75-$250. So i'm a little bummed about that, but I can tell this bike is going to last me a while.
Oh, and I need to replace the pedals because they are the clip in kind.
When I was there, I couldn't find the serial Number, but I did when I got home, upon looking it up, it's a 1988 St400 (the bikes a year younger than I am) upon doing more research, I have found that it can be had for $75-$250. So i'm a little bummed about that, but I can tell this bike is going to last me a while.
Oh, and I need to replace the pedals because they are the clip in kind.
You just may have made the deal of the century, who knows?
Cannondale makes great bikes, so no worries there!
However, I do have a favor to ask.
All that I ask is that you keep BF and me in particular, updated with respect the use, performance, and service, of your used Cannondale. You see, I have this theory that used aluminum bicycles don't generally last as long as steel bicycles. As a matter of fact, my theory says that your bike should only have a few more good years of service remaining. I'd like to be proven wrong about my suspicions, so that I might bolster my confidence in aluminum. If you religiously commute with your bike, on a weekly basis, as you have already planned, then we should know how your Cannondale maintains its integrity as the dependable steed, that we all wish it to be.
Therefore Iamdro, just keep us updated as to your progress and satisfaction with this used Cannondale bicycle purchase. We'd like to know how your bike handles, how it rides, and how you feel when riding it. Just drop by BF from time to time when you're bored and have little or nothing to do, drop us a note, and let us all know how you're doing.
I thank you in advance,
Slim
Good Luck!
Last edited by SlimRider; 12-01-12 at 10:36 PM.
#42
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Thanks so much for your help, I'll definitely be around, I can already tell I'm going to need to do some work/ adjustments on the bike, or it could be that i'm just terrible at friction shifting. The chain seems to be skipping some while pedaling, I think it has to do with the first spiny thing (gear?) in the derailer before it hits the Cogs, the teeth seem a little worn out. It could also be that I had my front gear shifter to far in which made the chain rub against the front derailer. I also need to lube it up WD-40? Is it possible to change the shifters to STI?
#43
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It's not impossible, but those super-cheap bikes usually don't have Shimano/Camp/Sram standard frames. STI, you are probably referring to those famous parts manufacturer, are one of this, and even along these three famous manufacturer, you need to be extremely careful with mixing parts because of compatibility.
I really suggest going for aluminum or Cr-Mo frame bikes with Shimano 2300 parts level bikes around probably $600-$800. If you are planning for an upgrade, then you may need to go even higher unless you are willing to replace all parts when upgrading.
I really suggest going for aluminum or Cr-Mo frame bikes with Shimano 2300 parts level bikes around probably $600-$800. If you are planning for an upgrade, then you may need to go even higher unless you are willing to replace all parts when upgrading.
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Thanks so much for your help, I'll definitely be around, I can already tell I'm going to need to do some work/ adjustments on the bike, or it could be that i'm just terrible at friction shifting. The chain seems to be skipping some while pedaling, I think it has to do with the first spiny thing (gear?) in the derailer before it hits the Cogs, the teeth seem a little worn out. It could also be that I had my front gear shifter to far in which made the chain rub against the front derailer. I also need to lube it up WD-40? Is it possible to change the shifters to STI?
First of all, never try to lube your bike with WD-40. Secondly, try to find a bicycle co-op in your area. They will have bicycle mechanics there who will know how to fix your bike. Of course, they won't actually fix your bike. However, they will guide and instruct you as to how to fix your own bicycle. Have one of their mechanics inspect and evaluate your bicycle. After his assessment, tend to your bike, then come back here and gives us an update.
If you don't have a bicycle co-op within your immediate vicinity, just take your bicycle to any local bicycle shop, in order to obtain a bicycle assessment. Make certain that you keep a record of the items on your bike that need attention. Also keep a record of all of your maintenance costs.
Often times you can just "Google" information about how to fix, adjust, or install certain bicycle components. Try to pick up enough independent mechanical skills to become self-sufficient.
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Thanks so much for your help, I'll definitely be around, I can already tell I'm going to need to do some work/ adjustments on the bike, or it could be that i'm just terrible at friction shifting. The chain seems to be skipping some while pedaling, I think it has to do with the first spiny thing (gear?) in the derailer before it hits the Cogs, the teeth seem a little worn out. It could also be that I had my front gear shifter to far in which made the chain rub against the front derailer. I also need to lube it up WD-40? Is it possible to change the shifters to STI?
Perhaps Ole Blue was the better Cannondale deal, afterall!