What's your opinion on Softride?
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What's your opinion on Softride?
I've been seeing way too many Softrides on craigslist, is it because they look fun but don't ride very well? Just a guess. I would honestly like to buy one but i'm trying to figure out why people want to get rid of them. What's your opinion on the brand and their unique technologies? How do they ride?
#3
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I love mine.
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good guess, or maybe they have bills to pay, or maybe it's taking up too much space. ??? The list goes on...
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[img][/img]
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I briefly had a Softride Powerwing, which I wanted to use for time trials, duathlons and triathlons. They're very top heavy and as a result, they seem slow handling and feel awkard when climbing out of the saddle. They also severely restrict the standover height, so they're not real good for stop and go riding. The oddest thing was how many times I knocked the saddle trying to throw my leg over it. After rding a normal bicycle for so long, you become calibrated as to how high you have to lift your leg and you routinely just clear it. But with a Softride, the unloaded beam sits an inch or two higher and you continually hit it until you re-calibrate your leg lift.
Now, these things were minor inconveniences, for my intended use. Things went fine on TTs and duathlons but on triathlons, riding in my Speedo, my bare thighs were constantly rubbing and chafing on the wide beam. A little vaseline helped but occaissional wind gusts would sometimes inbed sand and dirt in the vaseline and that just made things worse. I sold after less than season.
The other concern is that the beams have to be selected based on rider weight, so it's not like you just buy just any old Softride. Replacing beams are expensive. If you selection the right beam, there's little bounce and it does make for a more plush ride.
Now, these things were minor inconveniences, for my intended use. Things went fine on TTs and duathlons but on triathlons, riding in my Speedo, my bare thighs were constantly rubbing and chafing on the wide beam. A little vaseline helped but occaissional wind gusts would sometimes inbed sand and dirt in the vaseline and that just made things worse. I sold after less than season.
The other concern is that the beams have to be selected based on rider weight, so it's not like you just buy just any old Softride. Replacing beams are expensive. If you selection the right beam, there's little bounce and it does make for a more plush ride.
Last edited by T-Mar; 12-03-12 at 02:00 PM.
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I have heard the Softride bicycles ride like pogo sticks. If you like that in a bike, go for it. Note that I do not know that on personal experience, but from second hand account by a friend who owned one previously.
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I have one of the early Paul Barkley softrides and love it. Don't really notice a whole lot of difference on an average ride, but it does take out out some bumps. I can definitely see how it woul be annoying if you had a beam that was too soft for you though.
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Sounds like he had one with a beam that was too light for his weight.
#11
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owenmeyers, A couple of members in the bike club had a Softride and they liked them. For a few years they were popular tri bike around here. There were different beams for rider's weight and maybe something else that could be adjusted or perhaps a replaceable elastomer doughnut(?).
Otherwise I just have their hitch rack, which is bombproof.
Brad
Otherwise I just have their hitch rack, which is bombproof.
Brad
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Ok. So they sound like decent bikes for tri-athalons but not for everyday use. Does the bike actually have a soft ride? Is there some sort of flex or suspension from the beam?
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My wife and I have 4 bikes that are Softrides or Softride equipped. She and I have a Paul Barkey preproduction bikes and I have a Softride production single. All are road bikes. Mine also have front suspension stems on them. She and I also have a Burley Rock & Roll Softride equipped tandem. Great cross country riding bikes but you must learn to ride them the right way. You have to pedal in circles or you will pogo the bike. The other worst thing you can do is to get out of the saddle. The bikes are meant for you sit on and enjoy the ride. I wouldn't do this on a regular basis but I one time riding in a paceline hit a brick I coundn't see at 20+ MPH. No flat tire, no bent rim, no loss of control, just a loud thump and then a careful stop to see if I had damaged anything important. The red bike is the Paul Barkley and the other is the factory bike. Roger
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Unfortunatley, the beam is not tunable per say. I forget how many beams there are. There may or may not be one to give the balance you want. I don't even know if you can still obtain replacement beams. If not, you have to make sure the one you buy is right for you. Oh, they have been known to break and the it's also suggested that the mounting bolt be replaced periodically (I forget how often).
I know people who have successfully raced on them but I just don't like the top heavy feel. Around town, the lack of standover height is a problem unless you constantly remain seated and use a curb for a footrest at stops. Personally, I think they're at the best in longer, relatively flat and straight rides, like half and full centuies in Florida or Texas. Also good for relatively flat and straight TT and duathlons. Include triathlons too, unless you have very big thighs.
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Good point, they do work much better with a fluid pedalling motion. That was never an issue for me.
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Those are some beautiful bikes rhenning. I have made my decision to not buy one because i don't see any tri-athalons in my future. I don't want to concentrate on keeping a fluid motion with my cranks. And I have this awful image of me breaking the beam and falling to my death. But hey, they might be worth alot in the future. Thanks for your opinions!
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Around here, their following is loyal, and mostly female.
Either that, or they can't get anyone to buy them.
I've been beat by several of them in triathlons and have passed the same one at least a dozen times (she's a great swimmer).
I keenly observed the beam motion as I approached from the rear, looking for movement. That's what I keep telling myself, anyway.
Either that, or they can't get anyone to buy them.
I've been beat by several of them in triathlons and have passed the same one at least a dozen times (she's a great swimmer).
I keenly observed the beam motion as I approached from the rear, looking for movement. That's what I keep telling myself, anyway.
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They will really teach you how to pedal smoothly. I'd like to get one myself if only to learn how not to just hammer up and down.
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Here's the picture of my former Softride Powerwing. There is one aspect of Softride that I forgot to mention, They really turn heads. So, if you have to be the center of attention, get a Softride.
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I should also mention tha initial set-up of the saddle (height, fore/aft and tilt) is a bit more tedious, due to having to compensate for the beam sag. You set it up, you ride, you adjust, you ride, you make a fine adjustment, you ride, you make a finer adjustment....
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T-MAR I thought setting the saddle height was easy to do. Fore/aft because the clamp slides on the beam I just used the same measurement as my Paramount. Tilt can be a little bit of time as it is with any bike. For height I just take my saddle standard height and add 1 inch. The 1 inch was for initial beam flex. Since the beam is always moving as long as you are close you are good. It was always interesting to me that riding the bike I never felt like the beam was moving but I have seen myself on video on the bike the beam is in constant movement. Not large amounts but plus or minus 1/4 of an inch often. I normally ride Brooks B-17 and on my regular bikes after 25 miles or so I had to change saddle position to protect my rear end parts. On the Softrides that was never an issue. Roger
Last edited by rhenning; 12-04-12 at 11:45 AM.
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T-MAR I thought setting the saddle height was easy to do. Fore/aft because the clamp slide on the beam I just used the same measurement as my Paramount. Tilt can be a little bit of time as it is with any bike. For height I just take my saddle standard height and add 1 inch. The 1 inch was for initial beam flex. Since the beam is always moving as long as you are close you are good...