Stuck chain ring bolts... tried everything!
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Stuck chain ring bolts... tried everything!
I posted this in the Mechanics forum and have gotten a lot of replies, but since this is SS/FG related I will post here as well. My Kilo TT came this week and I want to switch out the chain ring from 48T down to 44T. Anyways, the chain ring bolts are seized. Usually I use a big flat blade screwdriver, on the nuts but the bolts protrude out the back. I am told that some form of lock-tite has been used and the bond needs to be broken. Park makes a tool to hold the nuts but no LBS has them to sell. I could mail order one but that doesn't help me know.
So far I have tried:
1) WD-40.
2) Compression ring pliers. Bent the pins.
3) Applied heat with a solder gun. No luck.
4) Combination of the above.
I just took the drive side of the crank off to make this easy and so I do not scratch the bike. I am almost ready to take a torch to the bolts to loosed them. Any ideas before I go insane?
So far I have tried:
1) WD-40.
2) Compression ring pliers. Bent the pins.
3) Applied heat with a solder gun. No luck.
4) Combination of the above.
I just took the drive side of the crank off to make this easy and so I do not scratch the bike. I am almost ready to take a torch to the bolts to loosed them. Any ideas before I go insane?
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They should make a tool designed to hold chainring bolts in place.
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In my experience it is more difficult to remove stuck chainring bolts when the crank isn't attached to the bike.
Also, what bike shops don't carry these?
Also, what bike shops don't carry these?
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#6
Your cog is slipping.
Yeah, you're right. Why would the tool specifically designed for that sort of thing work?
Last edited by Scrodzilla; 03-01-14 at 11:04 AM.
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Who told you that Loctite was used ? I've never seen that done on new cranks from the factory. Nor does it make any sense to do so. Like Scrod said, just get the proper tool before you ruin everything. I've never been unable to remove chainring bolts when using the tool.
#10
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
If it is a new crank it is unlikely the chainring bolts are seized... if thread lock was used I doubt they would have used the red which requires more heat to remove than a soldering gun would provide.
You just need the right tool for the job.
You just need the right tool for the job.
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Who told you that Loctite was used ? I've never seen that done on new cranks from the factory. Nor does it make any sense to do so. Like Scrod said, just get the proper tool before you ruin everything. I've never been unable to remove chainring bolts when using the tool.
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P.S. I am diggin' the Kilo so far! Will post pics once its dialed in.
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AL corrosion can be defeated with ammonia. instead of heathave you tried freezing it? though a soldering iron isn't hot enough to do much you need a torch
Last edited by Xgecko; 03-02-14 at 11:50 AM.
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If I didn't have the right tool, had spare bolts, and needed an immediate fix, damn right I'd drill them.
#18
Senior Member
Soldering iron won't be enough heat. Stick it in the oven for a while, then pull it out and squirt some of that CO2 electrical cleaner just on the bolt to shrink it down.
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I've never seen the proper tool in the shops here. Mind you, the attitude in this benighted country is that the whole bike is disposable. The industry is currently working on the belief that a flat tyre is grounds for changing bikes, their big problem being that they still want people to buy $2,000 wheels to replace the perfectly good wheels their bike came with. Most shops I've stalked out of after uttering heresy in the hearing of the 'sales staff' wouldn't even realise you CAN change chain rings, you change entire groupsets instead.
You think I'm joking don't you. HAH! There are reasons I'm as hard to get on with as I am and why I value the good shops that I find.
You think I'm joking don't you. HAH! There are reasons I'm as hard to get on with as I am and why I value the good shops that I find.
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Okay, so I bought the Park Tool and another generic brand tool, both which are supposed to do the same job. I had to grind down the generic one a little bit to make it fit and it latches, but still starts to round off the top of the nut because I can't put enough pressure on it I guess, while turning the Allen key.
The Park tool doesn't even fit into the slot because the middle stub on one end is too long and it hits the inside of the bolt. I don't to grind this one down too cause it's nicer.
So as you guys can see, I have the right tools for the job...but they're still not coming off. It's a brand new SRAM S300 1.1 Crankset, never installed on the bike by the way. I just got it. And I'm pretty sure the factory put Loctite on them or some form of glue substance...I can't get any of them off.
Now I'm thinking I have to drill them...any other ideas?
The Park tool doesn't even fit into the slot because the middle stub on one end is too long and it hits the inside of the bolt. I don't to grind this one down too cause it's nicer.
So as you guys can see, I have the right tools for the job...but they're still not coming off. It's a brand new SRAM S300 1.1 Crankset, never installed on the bike by the way. I just got it. And I'm pretty sure the factory put Loctite on them or some form of glue substance...I can't get any of them off.
Now I'm thinking I have to drill them...any other ideas?
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My Omniums had thread lock (blue Loctite) on them from the factory. Luckily the chainring bolts took allen wrenches on both sides.
I know that doesn't help in getting them off, just wanted to clarify.
I know that doesn't help in getting them off, just wanted to clarify.
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I had this problem with only one of the bolts on my old Truvativ Crank. The other bolts were still pretty hard to remove, but not as hard. This crank seems impossible. Do you guys think that I have to ride it first to break it in a little?
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Locktite typically lets go with heat. Maybe a bit of research on the Locktite blue is in order.