Bike Gremlin

Can anyone tell me which tools do I need to open, clean, grease, and put back together front and rear Shimano hubs - 105, model 5600 (with cassette)?

Which size cone wrenches do I need, and how many?

My guess is one 13 and one 15, since I can work locknuts with regular wrenches. Am I right, or is there something else?

cny-bikeman

Don't you have the ability to just measure what you have? I'd recommend just buying the common sizes - 13-14-15, as they always come in handy.

Al Criner

The locknuts have narrow flats for cone wrenches just like the cones, so you will need 2 cone wrenches for the front and 2 for the rear. My advice is to get 2 double-ended 13-15mm wrenches such as Park Tool makes and you should be set. I use these on 5500 hubs.

HillRider

In the past your estimate of a 13 mm and a 15 mm cone wrench and a 17 mm open end would have been correct. However, since those days Shimano hubs have come in a bewildering variety of wrench requirements including those needing two 14 mm cone wrenches with no 17 mm locknut at all, those needing a 17 mm cone wrench and a 17 mm open end, and probably others i haven't seen. Measure.

fietsbob

& A 10mm hex (allen) wrench to split the cassette driver from the Rest of the hub.

Bike Gremlin

Thanks guys.

So, to conclude list:

2x 13 mm cone wrench
2x 15 mm cone wrench
(whether I find them combined, or separate)

10 mm allen wrench

Some degreaser, lithium grease.

Anything else?

Of all these I'd have to buy those cone wrenches.


The way I understood books and manuals: when putting it all back, it should have little play, then loose all the play once the quick release is tightened and the wheel is mounted. Anything else to pay attention to? Any other tools?

Bill Kapaun

You don't need a 10mm allen wrench unless you plan on removing the Free Hub body, which isn't necessary unless replacing it.

Most any wheel bearing grease is fine.
many of us use boat trailer bearing grease because it's supposed to be more water resistant.
I do, but avoid the rain, so it's kind of a moot point for me.
It's probably more important that the hubs are serviced with new grease on a somewhat regular basis than the specific grease.

I buy bearing balls in bulk and simply install new ones when I service the hubs.
To me, the low cost is worth it, instead of having to use a solvent and then inspect each ball under the magnifying glass and hope I didn't miss a pit.
Dump the balls and wipe out the old grease with a rag or paper towel. Keeps the hands much cleaner too. New grease washes off with cheap bar soap. No "black" imbedded in your pores.

Leebo

A bent q-tip is great for getting the old grease out. I usually only take off the nuts on one side so I don't have to fiddle with getting the right amount of threads to show on both sides.

reptilezs

you need a 14mm cone wrench. the lock nut is not a hex

HillRider

Interesting that Shimano has gone to this design with 105. I have an old set of Dura Ace 9-speed hubs (HB-7700 and FH-7700) and the front requires a 13 mm cone wrench for the cones and a 14 mm cone wrench for the locknuts. The rear uses 14 mm cone wrenches for both the cones and locknuts. Neither hub's locknuts have a hex and are not accessible to any standard open end wrench, only cone wrenches.

noglider 

Correct. I think you're ready.

LastKraftWagen

The way I understood books and manuals: when putting it all back, it should have little play, then loose all the play once the quick release is tightened and the wheel is mounted. Anything else to pay attention to? Any other tools?[/QUOTE]


One technique I came across, if you have a workstand...

Flip the QR so the release is on the drive side. Then insert the drive side in the left side dropout so the wheel is mounted outside the dropouts on the left side of the bike. When locking down the QR, make sure the QR nut does not contact the lockout nut. Then from the left (non drive) side you an adjust all the play out of the bearings since the axle is under the compression it would have as if installed. Saves constantly mounting/unmounting to find that sweet spot. Sounds goofy, but I've been told this works.

HillRider

A variation on this technique is to get a front and rear dropout from a trashed frame and fork and clamp them in a vise to set the hub clearance using your technique. If you have a bench vise this is more convenient than using your entire bike.

Bike Gremlin

I can use this technigue with bicycle flipped on it's back, can't I? Don't have a work stand.

LastKraftWagen

Don't see why not. I would probably support the bike and use the fork instead of the dropout...I can't say why, but that's how I imagine I would do it.

Zef

or you can use a stack of washers that have a hole big enough for the QR skeewer to pass through but not the axel. The outer diameter of the washers should be no bigger than the diameter of the QR. Stack enough washers on the side of the QR level to approximate the thickness of both dropouts or forkends and then use the QR skewer to camp in place using the same amount of tension/force or what have you as if you were mounting on the bike...you will have plenty of clearnace now for wrench access and should adjust the bearings so there is no play. When the QR is opened you should notice the slight amount of play due to uncompressing the axel.

Sheldon Brown suggests something similar using an old cone with a chunk of axle sawed off and screwed inside the cone.

-j

HillRider

The fork will work for a front wheel (9mm axle) but probably won't accept a rear wheel (10 mm axle) so you will need both ends of the bike.

Bike Gremlin

Just to thank you all once more. I have successfully (did I get all the double letters correct? ) repacked front 105 hubs (they are very nicely made, seeing it up close), and 2 wheels of my "winter" MTB (some cheap Quando hubs) - both the front, and rear.

The rear 105 wheel is due for an overhaul in the autumn.

davidad

The balls are good to reuse if they are still shiny. I don't use solvent on them. I just wipe them clean with a rag.

davidad

I use a 7/16" nut over the right side of the axle for a spacer to adjust bearing preload.

Bill Kapaun

You have to quote me from a 4 month old thread just to say you don't?

davidad

I didn't notice the date on the article, but I still don't replace the bearings unless they have lost their luster. I don't like to waste material.

basqueonacaad

Atta boy...or girl whoever you are.

Bike Gremlin

:****