For the love of English 3 speeds...
#6926
Don't need forms to make stainless steel cable clips. First use a piece of paper to make a template to help you locate the cable stay's position on the clip from one end. 304 SS sheets can be bought at McMaster- Carr. Cut to width with shears, deburr and round the edges with a fine file or stone, clamp two rods or drill bits in a vise and draw the cut strip through them to form a basic radius. Then, using the paper template, use needle nose pliers to form the stay and to finish size the radius of the clip, cut the other end to the proper length, smooth it up and use the pliers to bend the leads. Polish and you're done.
Last edited by BigChief; 03-23-15 at 09:49 AM.
#6927
Senior Member
I don't actually see the need for making clamps for most restorations as cable clamps are easily available.
Mine were harder to make than necessary cause the stainless steel I had available was heavier than I needed. Couldn't find a local source so went with what I had.
The cable guides were the easiest but all of them were made more or less the same.
For the cable guide, I took a drill bit smaller than the size I needed, knowing there would be spring back. I put the drill bit in a vice and folded a length of of the SS around the drill bit, keeping in mind where I wanted the clip ends to be. I used a hammer to gently tighten the bend so it conformed to the drill bit.
Then I clamped a pair of vice grips around the SS and drill bit so I could pull the ends of the SS out and get a nice sharp bend at the bottom edge of the drill bit diameter and the vice grip jaws. Now I have a slightly rounded piece of SS with a sharply defined hump in the center.
Next pick a wrench socket the correct diameter for the body of the clamp. Put the vice grip/drill bit/SS assembly on top and bend the SS around the socket. I found it useful to either clamp the drill bit to the socket in the vice or use another pair of vice grips to hold the two together.
Use a pair of pliers to form the ears of the clamp for the screw/bolt. At this point the vice grips around the drill bit can come off and you can use a hammer and block of wood to tighten up some of the edges/folds. Clamping the ears together and working gently around with a hammer will help conform to the diameter of the socket.
Just a matter of drilling the ears and polishing left. You can use a grinder to refine the shape. All through the process a light touch with the hammer and pliers reduces the amount of tool marks to remove later.
Mine were harder to make than necessary cause the stainless steel I had available was heavier than I needed. Couldn't find a local source so went with what I had.
The cable guides were the easiest but all of them were made more or less the same.
For the cable guide, I took a drill bit smaller than the size I needed, knowing there would be spring back. I put the drill bit in a vice and folded a length of of the SS around the drill bit, keeping in mind where I wanted the clip ends to be. I used a hammer to gently tighten the bend so it conformed to the drill bit.
Then I clamped a pair of vice grips around the SS and drill bit so I could pull the ends of the SS out and get a nice sharp bend at the bottom edge of the drill bit diameter and the vice grip jaws. Now I have a slightly rounded piece of SS with a sharply defined hump in the center.
Next pick a wrench socket the correct diameter for the body of the clamp. Put the vice grip/drill bit/SS assembly on top and bend the SS around the socket. I found it useful to either clamp the drill bit to the socket in the vice or use another pair of vice grips to hold the two together.
Use a pair of pliers to form the ears of the clamp for the screw/bolt. At this point the vice grips around the drill bit can come off and you can use a hammer and block of wood to tighten up some of the edges/folds. Clamping the ears together and working gently around with a hammer will help conform to the diameter of the socket.
Just a matter of drilling the ears and polishing left. You can use a grinder to refine the shape. All through the process a light touch with the hammer and pliers reduces the amount of tool marks to remove later.
#6928
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 1,620
Bikes: Too many 3-speeds, Jones Plus LWB
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[MENTION=366277]Slash5[/MENTION] If you have an unusual tubing size knowing this technique can be handy! I've been trying to get a clamp for the pulley for my Bates, but all the clamps are for smaller tube diameters, that is unless I don't care about putting the clamp right over the Reynolds 531 decal, and I do happen to care about that. So- thanks!!!
#6929
I used to do a lot of this sort of work in my job. Once you have a basic radius, somewhere close to the finished radius set in the strip of steel, it's easy to adjust it without making kinks. It's not necessary to wrap the strip around a mandrel.
It is very handy to be able to make custom clips at times. For example, I'll be using Tektro brakes on my Rudge project. They have the cable connections on the right side and the original brakes are on the left. My plan for routing the rear brake is 45 degrees from the bottom of the top tube on the left. But, I still want the open section of the clip facing down. That means making custom clips...or being happy with zip ties.
It is very handy to be able to make custom clips at times. For example, I'll be using Tektro brakes on my Rudge project. They have the cable connections on the right side and the original brakes are on the left. My plan for routing the rear brake is 45 degrees from the bottom of the top tube on the left. But, I still want the open section of the clip facing down. That means making custom clips...or being happy with zip ties.
#6930
Verified Antique
Hey I appreciate the input on this frame clip thing. After looking at options and taking a look at aftermarket stuff available online it was a no-brainer to just order a supply of the latter.
Still wish that more of the vintage OEM stuff was out there at reasonable prices - just to keep things historically accurate - but people seem to generally want more for those than I'm willing to pay.
I ordered some today; here's what I decided on:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=A7W90RMKTHOTS
Amazon.com : CABLE GUIDE DIA-COMPE TOP TUBE CHROME 25.4MM : Bmx Bike Components : Sports & Outdoors
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064HLZRA/...1J3KIULC&psc=1
Still wish that more of the vintage OEM stuff was out there at reasonable prices - just to keep things historically accurate - but people seem to generally want more for those than I'm willing to pay.
I ordered some today; here's what I decided on:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=A7W90RMKTHOTS
Amazon.com : CABLE GUIDE DIA-COMPE TOP TUBE CHROME 25.4MM : Bmx Bike Components : Sports & Outdoors
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064HLZRA/...1J3KIULC&psc=1
#6931
Senior Member
Three Speed Ride in Portland: 21 March 2015 report
We had a lovely 20 mile ramble 'round Portland. Eight folks braved the occasional rainshower to have a great time.
Full report: https://societyofthreespeeds.wordpre...21-march-2015/
Photos: https://www.flickr.com/photos/urbana...7649185069593/
Full report: https://societyofthreespeeds.wordpre...21-march-2015/
Photos: https://www.flickr.com/photos/urbana...7649185069593/
#6932
Senior Member
OH yeah! For those of you doing the Lake Pepin ride in May, I'm organizing a three-speed camping tour after it!
https://societyofthreespeeds.wordpre...7-20-may-2015/
https://societyofthreespeeds.wordpre...7-20-may-2015/
#6933
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,572
Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed
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Here's a 1949 SA hub and wheel on Ebay with a price of $875.00 (US). The seller is asking and additional $53.00 to ship to Canada with estimated import fees of $161.00! That's some hub!!
Here's another one. Obviously a mis-print but the shipping seems a little steep...
Here's another one. Obviously a mis-print but the shipping seems a little steep...
Last edited by gster; 03-24-15 at 09:03 AM.
#6935
On the road
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New England
Posts: 2,306
Bikes: Old Schwinns and old Raleighs
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That ASC has been up for awhile. I think that price is steep, but then they come up pretty rarely, so I admit I don't know whether there actually is a "going price" for a good ASC.
__________________
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
#6936
multimodal commuter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
Posts: 19,811
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
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Anyone interested should definitely check out the S3X, though.
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www.rhmsaddles.com.
www.rhmsaddles.com.
#6937
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,572
Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed
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I've seen them sell for $200-$400 depending on completeness, if my memory is correct. Now that you can get a complete S3X setup for under $150, the attraction of the original ASC is reduced to serious collectors and "period correct" people. I would consider an ASC too precious to ride except for special occasions.
Anyone interested should definitely check out the S3X, though.
Anyone interested should definitely check out the S3X, though.
#6939
multimodal commuter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
Posts: 19,811
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
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#6940
aka Tom Reingold
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Posts: 41,052
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
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I had an S3X for a while. I liked it, but I got bored with it and sold it. The bike that had it is now a regular one-speed fixed gear.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#6941
On the road
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New England
Posts: 2,306
Bikes: Old Schwinns and old Raleighs
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I've seen them sell for $200-$400 depending on completeness, if my memory is correct. Now that you can get a complete S3X setup for under $150, the attraction of the original ASC is reduced to serious collectors and "period correct" people. I would consider an ASC too precious to ride except for special occasions.
Anyone interested should definitely check out the S3X, though.
Anyone interested should definitely check out the S3X, though.
__________________
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
#6942
Senior Member
#6943
aka Tom Reingold
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Posts: 41,052
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
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Ha!
I had it geared with 2nd gear at 66 inches, so 2nd gear was too low, 3rd gear was high at 88 inches, and 1st gear was too low at 55 inches. The widely spaced gears didn't match the riding style. I can't even explain why there are times when I don't want a selection of gears. I have the fixed gear set up at 74 inches. There are no big hills near me.
I had it geared with 2nd gear at 66 inches, so 2nd gear was too low, 3rd gear was high at 88 inches, and 1st gear was too low at 55 inches. The widely spaced gears didn't match the riding style. I can't even explain why there are times when I don't want a selection of gears. I have the fixed gear set up at 74 inches. There are no big hills near me.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#6944
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 25,052
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
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The gear ratios (0.625/0.75/1.0) are the only issue I have with my S3X. I'd rather have the ASC ratios (0.75/0.9/1.0), personally. But ASC hubs are ridiculously expensive. I suspect if there were enough demand, Sturmey-Archer could make replacement axle/planet cages for the S3X with different ratios.
#6945
aka Tom Reingold
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Posts: 41,052
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
Liked 3,046 Times
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The gear ratios (0.625/0.75/1.0) are the only issue I have with my S3X. I'd rather have the ASC ratios (0.75/0.9/1.0), personally. But ASC hubs are ridiculously expensive. I suspect if there were enough demand, Sturmey-Archer could make replacement axle/planet cages for the S3X with different ratios.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#6946
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,572
Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed
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#6947
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 59
Bikes: 1973 Raleigh Sports. 21 inch, Black, 1991 Ross Shark 6 speed.
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After 3 years I finally bought a new saddle for my 73 Sports. I had to get past paying twice for the saddle than I paid for the bike. I also hate to admit it, but the vinyl Brooks that it came with was pretty comfortable, at least for me. But the vinyl was ripping from the rivets and looking reall bad.
#6948
Verified Antique
After 3 years I finally bought a new saddle for my 73 Sports. I had to get past paying twice for the saddle than I paid for the bike. I also hate to admit it, but the vinyl Brooks that it came with was pretty comfortable, at least for me. But the vinyl was ripping from the rivets and looking reall bad.
#6949
Cottered Crank
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Chicago
Posts: 3,401
Bikes: 1954 Raleigh Sports 1974 Raleigh Competition 1969 Raleigh Twenty 1964 Raleigh LTD-3
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I think you can still find the vinyl covers for the old Brooks saddles NOS.
But this is still a nice and period-correct upgrade.
But this is still a nice and period-correct upgrade.
#6950
Verified Antique
Speaking of hubs....
Yeah, yeah, I know it's a certain sacrilege to speak of "the other guys" on this thread but I wanted people here to have a shot at the fantastic deal on the last one of these:
Coasting 700c 18" Med 3 Speed Shimano Coaster Dynamo Automatic Bike Bicycle New | eBay
I had been keeping a weather eye out for just the hub and controls stripped from a bike and this showed up. I grabbed one; this is the future of the IGH, IMO.
Coasting 700c 18" Med 3 Speed Shimano Coaster Dynamo Automatic Bike Bicycle New | eBay
I had been keeping a weather eye out for just the hub and controls stripped from a bike and this showed up. I grabbed one; this is the future of the IGH, IMO.