Hanson1

Hello all, and thanks for your help in advance. I got a Trek 1000 a few weeks ago (late 80's/early 90's) as a fixer-upper winter project and have run into snags way before I thought I would. I was taking everything apart to get a bare frame so I can strip/paint it and when I flipped the bike over I could hear what I think is rust on the inside of the forks trickling down. There's noticeable rust/bubbling on the outside so I want to replace it just to be on the safe side. I don't know how to remove it first of all, and then how to choose a new fork. I don't necessarily care about weight or anything else, just want something that resembles stock and is strong.

Also, when I went to take the back brake mechanism off, the hex nut is so stripped I have no idea how to remove it. Can anyone help? Thanks again for reading and any advice is greatly appreciated.

Aubergine 

i can't imagine why you would want to replace the rust.

Seriously, it is not that hard to remove or replace a steel fork. To remove it, you simply need to unscrew the headset, and then the fork should drop out of the main part of the frame. You would need them to knock the bottom headset race off the fork so you can reuse it on the new fork.

I bought an old frame with a bent fork, and bought a replacement fork in eBay. The trick is to make sure the new fork has the right steering tube dimensions, and is of the right height (or a bit taller.) the steerer tube is threaded, you see, so any new fork has to match what your frame needs.

I suggest using vise grips.

dedhed

If you plan to reuse the headset you also have to make sure the crown race seat of the new fork matches the crown race of your existing headset. (JIS 27mm or ISO 26.4mm)

Another thing is make sure it's a fork for the size wheel you plan to use (700c or 27" late '80's Trek would be likely 700 wheels) or your brakes may not reach. Likely you'll need a 1" threaded steerer for 700 wheels.

We won't even get into rake and trail.

Honestly you might be better off buying another bike and have all the parts rather than pay $40-50 for a decent fork alone.
https://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/bik/5340296660.html

It may not actually be rust but braze pieces or debris inside the fork legs. You're in Chi so it easily could be rust too.

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MNBikeCommuter

It doesn't seem to take much rust to cause paint bubbles. I'd scrape it off and see what it looks like. A little sanding and some Rustoleum/equivalent might be all that's needed.

FastJake

+1 Just touch up or repaint the fork. Much easier. Or just leave it as-is.

For the back brake, grab the whole caliper and try rotating it to the left (counter-clockwise.) This might loosen it up enough, since you probably won't be able to grab the recessed nut with anything.

Andrew R Stewart 

If the fork has (and it likely does) two vent holes per blade one can wash out the loose stuff might be rust or might be left over flux from manufacturing) with a hot water bath/flushing. be sure to fully dry it out by warming the fork in an oven (keep temps at the warming settings). Then one can flush with a phosphate solution (navel Jelly but thinner to flow in and out of the tiny holes. Again fully dry. Then do the usual paint prep on the outside, paint and spray in FrameSaver after paint is done. Andy.

NukeouT

Yeah, been there done that. Ended up with a center-pull 70s Raleigh International fork where my Campy brakes could not reach the rim. Bought a set of 2015 Tektros and now my front can handle a 29'er + brake performance is waay better.

Before even doing all this work, take it to your LBS and have them look at it. They might A: determine its actually fine and you dont need to mess with it or B: determine that it is not at all ok and take a look at the rest of your bike as well.