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Can I install my own bearing cups and headset without headset press?

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Can I install my own bearing cups and headset without headset press?

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Old 01-31-16, 01:03 PM
  #1  
Gracie1194
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Can I install my own bearing cups and headset without headset press?

Headset: 1-1/8" external cup
Headset: FSA Orbit MX
Frame: Soma Wolverine

Is it possible to install at home without the specific tool or should I bring it to the bike shop?
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Old 01-31-16, 01:14 PM
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jimc101
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You really need some sort of tool, especially if your looking at doing it on a fairly high end frame like yours; this can be made from threaded rod & washers & nuts, although would add the cost of making this up (if you need to buy those parts) vs just getting a LBS to do it, if this is a one off for you.
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Old 01-31-16, 04:02 PM
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Andrew R Stewart 
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Yes you can with some considerations. IIRC this headset can have the bearings removed from the cups. However you push the cups into the frame you want them to be bearingless if at all possible. As long as the cups are made of AL or steel one can simply use a wood block and a hammer. The block is placed against the cup's opening and the hammer strikes the block. If done with care the cup gets driven into the head tube, ends up square against the HT's face and there's no damage to anything. If done wrong the cup can be dented, started crooked in the HT and the HT then possibly (although unlikely to be) ovalized. The fork crown is actually the more difficult process as there's less to work with and the steerer gets in the way. I don't remember if this headset is a loose ball type or a cartridge bearing one. But if a loose ball design then care must be taken to not harm the curved ball track. While one could drive the crown race to home with a drift punch using minimal taps and moving the punch strike point around the crown race with each strike so to minimize the crookedness as the race is pushed further and further onto the seat. But this is hard to get started as the race will tend to flip or flop up on the other side from the initial strike(s). One way I dealt with this before I knew what I was doing was to use a bench vice or large adjustable wrench as a dual contact device and place a piece of wood on the crown's underside between the blades. Very crude and paint damage very easy to have happen. Plus the vice jaws might ding the race track. One could take an old headset cup and place it on top of the crown race with the cup's skirt contacting the race, this now acts as a setting tool. I've heard of some who will take a piece of PVC pipe or metal pipe big enough to slide over the steerer and contact the race and cut one end square then hit the other end with your hammer.

So, yes, there are all sorts of work arounds. But paint, bearing surface, frame/fork damage can happen if the user isn't careful. When using cobbed up tools it's easier to cause damage and the user usually isn't as experienced and knowing what could happen, there forl not able to be as careful as needed. many shops would do the pressing in/onto steps for less then a complete headset install. I strongly suggest considering this path. Andy.
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Old 02-01-16, 08:44 AM
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Yes, it's possible. But you risk damaging the paint or the headset. At worst you can ruin the frame and the headset. But you'd have to pretty ham fisted for that to happen.

My first few headset installs were done using the wood block method. It technically works but is a PITA and you'll end up scratching or hitting something you didn't want to. I can't recommend it.

Then I built my own headset press from some threaded rod, nuts, and large washers. It actually works pretty well and I can get the cups pressed in easily and reliably. As for the fork crown race, I always tap around the edge until it's on with a hammer and flat head screwdriver. The key is to tap on a flat edge and NOT the ball track. It's a little tedious but only takes a couple minutes to do.

Echoing the advice above: if this is a one-off just take it to the LBS. If you plan to do this on a regular basis it's worth figuring out how to do yourself. I seem to do at least a few headsets per year and therefore I do them myself.
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Old 02-01-16, 09:22 AM
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Unless you have already purchased the FSA headset, consider the Velo Orange "Gran Cru". It's also a high quality cartridge bearing headset but has the major advantage that the crown race is split and can be installed with no tools, just finger pressure.

I've also built my own headset cup press from a length of 1/2" all-thread rod, two nuts and some large washers. I've used it to install several headsets successfully but you do have to use care to keep it centered as each cup is seated. Also, I lined the inner washers with leather disks to protect the edges of the cups.

Last edited by HillRider; 02-02-16 at 06:04 PM.
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Old 02-01-16, 10:02 AM
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Unless you really, really want to do it yourself, bring it to a bikeshop. Also the fork and crown race. Speaking of the fork, you may want to have the shop cut the steerer to your preferred size at the same time. And if you don't want to invest in useful, but bike-specific tools, consider also bringing in the BB with the frame and the cassette with the wheel for install. You should have a chain tool, but if not, also get that sized and installed at the shop.
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Old 02-01-16, 12:48 PM
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With due respect to the above cautions and you will be installing others in the future (LBS is best if this is a one off install) just google DIY headset install, you will find lots of threaded rod videos and instructions. I have installed maybe 25 to 30 carefully w/o issue with a threaded rod.
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Old 02-02-16, 01:03 PM
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I have used both methods dozens of times and there is no problem with either wood block/hammer or DIY press tool provided that care is taken at the start to get the cups to fit in straight, rather than a little bit lop-sided. Don't be afraid to knock them back out at the start of the process to get them straight rather than forcing them in.

To help in getting headset cups out I have made my own tool by taking a cheap seatpost and sawing a couple of 3 inch cuts lengthways from the lower end of the seatpost and opening the base out.

Last edited by Gerryattrick; 02-02-16 at 01:09 PM.
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Old 02-02-16, 04:24 PM
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Yes you can but you don't want to. There's too much of a chance of causing damage to the headset or the headtube when it only cost $10 to get a shop to insert it with the proper tool.
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Old 02-02-16, 06:37 PM
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I use a threaded-rod press with an added fitting to hold the rod centered. It's this one:

MTB Tools Mountain Bike BMX Road Bicycle Headset Press Tool | eBay

Below are a couple of photos showing the tool in action.

There is risk to your frame if you mess up. If you pay a shop, then you transfer that risk to the shop. So decide whether you are willing to accept the risk and bear the cost of any mistake you might make. I'm happy that I took the plunge, but I'll admit to being awfully nervous my first time. These days I'm pretty blasé and just let the kids go at it ... with a little bit of coaching, of course.




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Old 02-02-16, 06:44 PM
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Just make sure it's straight and go slow. Piece of cake, no reason to pay a shop to do it.
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Old 02-02-16, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by wphamilton
Just make sure it's straight and go slow. Piece of cake, no reason to pay a shop to do it.
Also, don't try to seat both cups at the same time. Seat one fully first and then do the second. It's a lot easier to be sure they go in straight that way and to correct any minor misalignment as you seat them.
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Old 02-02-16, 08:00 PM
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Slow day at work so I made one, then I made a couple more
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Old 02-02-16, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Milice
Slow day at work so I made one, then I made a couple more
You made that? It looks pretty great.
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Old 02-02-16, 10:13 PM
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I've done a dozen headsets with 2x4s and a deadblow mallet. Just do so with care.

My threaded rod/washer assembly didn't do jack, BTW..........
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Old 02-03-16, 05:12 AM
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Originally Posted by CrippledKonaBoy
I've done a dozen headsets with 2x4s and a deadblow mallet.
I've done that as well, but if you put the headset cups in a freezer then heat the headtube with a heat gun you can tap them in with very little force. I was able to push them almost all the way in with my hand.
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Old 02-03-16, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by CrippledKonaBoy
My threaded rod/washer assembly didn't do jack, BTW..........
Interesting. Mine has always worked very well.
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