Removing a super tight freewheel.
02-13-16, 10:31 AM
#1
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Removing a super tight freewheel.
This freewheel I had was on so tight on the wheel, it stripped my remover tool. Its the classic 12 pronged contraption.
So I followed "bikemanforu"'s internet tips. But with a little twist.
Remove the locking collar/bearing race by turning it clockwise with a spanner or a small pin punch.
Then use a magnet and pull out all the balls.
Then invert it onto a bucket holding the sprocket pack to the wheel, and gently pull it out turning it in the freewheel direction. The bucket will catch all the balls that fall out. As well as the shims. I had 3 very very very thin shims.
Then clean out all the balls and put it back on the table right way up.
This is where I deviate from bikemanforu's tips, and with good reason.
There is a thin clip holding the ratchet teeth. Gently remove it and remove the ratchet teeth.
Then put the remover tool back into it and try to open it. I tried, but it still didn't work. But I can see how it could.
Then I left the tool in there and gripped the depressions for the freewheel teeth with a pair of vice grips - mine were rounded jaw with a nice curve, that let me not touch any other part of that. In any case, its hardened steel, you couldn't hurt it without going very crazy.
It came loose. I reassembled to make sure it works. Yea I packed it with grease etc etc too. Works great. Though I was going to replace the bearings - but have to buy those.
Cool.
Srinath.
So I followed "bikemanforu"'s internet tips. But with a little twist.
Remove the locking collar/bearing race by turning it clockwise with a spanner or a small pin punch.
Then use a magnet and pull out all the balls.
Then invert it onto a bucket holding the sprocket pack to the wheel, and gently pull it out turning it in the freewheel direction. The bucket will catch all the balls that fall out. As well as the shims. I had 3 very very very thin shims.
Then clean out all the balls and put it back on the table right way up.
This is where I deviate from bikemanforu's tips, and with good reason.
There is a thin clip holding the ratchet teeth. Gently remove it and remove the ratchet teeth.
Then put the remover tool back into it and try to open it. I tried, but it still didn't work. But I can see how it could.
Then I left the tool in there and gripped the depressions for the freewheel teeth with a pair of vice grips - mine were rounded jaw with a nice curve, that let me not touch any other part of that. In any case, its hardened steel, you couldn't hurt it without going very crazy.
It came loose. I reassembled to make sure it works. Yea I packed it with grease etc etc too. Works great. Though I was going to replace the bearings - but have to buy those.
Cool.
Srinath.
02-13-16, 10:51 AM
#2
Banned
More trouble than my time is worth I Throw away the old one and Replace it with New , + new Chain
Super tight? 4 handed , removal tool or the core of the freewheel if the removal tool wont work, in the bench vise ,
To Unscrew the wheel from the freewheel..
Super tight? 4 handed , removal tool or the core of the freewheel if the removal tool wont work, in the bench vise ,
To Unscrew the wheel from the freewheel..
Last edited by fietsbob; 02-13-16 at 10:58 AM.
02-13-16, 11:10 AM
#3
Steel is real
yeah, i'll tighten the removal tool in a bench vise, almost always everytime now. i removed a stubborn freewheel the other day, when it released it made a loud noise i thought i broke something :-D
02-13-16, 12:13 PM
#5
Senior Member
I'm surprised that a freewheel tight enough to break the tool would come off with vice grips.
I've done something similar with a single speed freewheel without removal slots and used a great big pipe wrench and threw the freewheel away.
I've done something similar with a single speed freewheel without removal slots and used a great big pipe wrench and threw the freewheel away.
02-13-16, 02:44 PM
#6
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Sounds like none replying have had a really tight freewheel before. One where the tool rounds off. One where the internal core's cavities for the pawls break and round off. One where you end up grinding the core thinner and thinner, trying to not get too deep in the hub's threads. And then and only then will the core crack and release it's bond to the hub shell. Andy
02-13-16, 03:37 PM
#8
Banned
Skill is in Making sure the tool never slips from the part of the freewheel it grips .
Shimano's Lock rings can be removed with the same tool they have for their freewheels , and that tool also removes
Centerlock disc Lockrings..
Campag Lock ring tools worked to install their later ISO SQ taper Cartridge BB designs .
Toured With a Phil Freewheel Hub . all I needed was the freewheel remover , no chainwhip too
like cassettes Need nowadays , in Spoke replacement.
Shimano's Lock rings can be removed with the same tool they have for their freewheels , and that tool also removes
Centerlock disc Lockrings..
Campag Lock ring tools worked to install their later ISO SQ taper Cartridge BB designs .
Toured With a Phil Freewheel Hub . all I needed was the freewheel remover , no chainwhip too
like cassettes Need nowadays , in Spoke replacement.
02-13-16, 05:10 PM
#9
Senior Member
Are you sure you are turning the tool the right way???
In extreme cases you have to saw the cog out, and then grab the body that is sill in place with a pipe wrench, amazingly enough, thats the easiest part of the job because sure will come out really easy.
In extreme cases you have to saw the cog out, and then grab the body that is sill in place with a pipe wrench, amazingly enough, thats the easiest part of the job because sure will come out really easy.
02-13-16, 05:27 PM
#12
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02-13-16, 05:43 PM
#13
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+1
Sounds like none replying have had a really tight freewheel before. One where the tool rounds off. One where the internal core's cavities for the pawls break and round off. One where you end up grinding the core thinner and thinner, trying to not get too deep in the hub's threads. And then and only then will the core crack and release it's bond to the hub shell. Andy
Yea I get it, 5-6-7-8 non cassette free wheels are worthless.
But its an academic exercise. If its worth doing it the way bikemanforu says, its worth doing it this way, just a hair better and saves you the thing.
Vice grips have a nice spot to grip where the pawls are. So you can get a better bite on it than the tool does.
Of course everything has its limits. It can be even tighter than vice grips and PB Blaster can persuade, sure.
Cool.
Srinath.
