Glueing nut onto bolt to replace broken head?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Glueing nut onto bolt to replace broken head?
My rack bolt head broke off. There's maybe 7-8mm of screw remaining poking out. I hacksawed a slot in it to then use a screw driver, but it's stuck pretty firmly.
The web has much advice about welding things onto the screw (when it's not giving advice that involves dremels and other tools I don't have). So I was thinking I could put some superglue into a nut, screw it on, let it set, then try to unscrew that.
It's an aluminium frame, and (I assume) a steel bolt.
Anyone tried this? Any thoughts?
The web has much advice about welding things onto the screw (when it's not giving advice that involves dremels and other tools I don't have). So I was thinking I could put some superglue into a nut, screw it on, let it set, then try to unscrew that.
It's an aluminium frame, and (I assume) a steel bolt.
Anyone tried this? Any thoughts?
Last edited by stevage; 02-26-16 at 10:21 PM.
#2
Really Old Senior Member
Can you remove all the other mounting bolts and get the rack off?
Then you could grab the stud with a vise grip pliers and screw it out.
Superglue won't hold.
Then you could grab the stud with a vise grip pliers and screw it out.
Superglue won't hold.
#3
Senior Member
In my experience, superglue is worthless unless you are gluing skin to skin.
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I did that, but I can't get enough grip on the thread with pliers. I don't have any locking (vise-grip) pliers, but maybe time to think about getting some.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 7,639
Bikes: 61 Bianchi Specialissima 71 Peugeot G50 7? P'geot PX10 74 Raleigh GranSport 75 P'geot UO8 78? Raleigh Team Pro 82 P'geot PSV 86 P'geot PX 91 Bridgestone MB0 92 B'stone XO1 97 Rans VRex 92 Cannondale R1000 94 B'stone MB5 97 Vitus 997
Likes: 0
Liked 49 Times
in
31 Posts
If you have 7-8 mm of exposed bolt (alnost a centimeter), you should be able to clamp that with visegrips and turn it. Soak with penetrating oil overnight. If the threads aren't buggered up, you might first try threading on two thin nuts, tightening them against each other, and turning the inner one.
#8
Other Worldly Member
Al and steel. Gag. That corrosive union forms aluminum oxide which is essentially sandpaper grit. As you turn the steel thread the aluminum oxide provides friction augmented by the...rusting steel. Getting the rack off and soaking in Aircoil or similar lubricant is good but ultimately it's a battle of force over friction. I'd alternate between mildly heating the frame and cooling the nut, to vice versa and keeping heat under 300 degrees to not to mess with the Aluminum. I've used a hot wrench to solve many farm machinery issues but bike stuff is NOT built like farm iron. I'd go through that soak and then heat/cool cycle a few times then try a socket with a very good sharp and tight fitting screwdriver bit and preferably one where you could lightly clamp the frame and socket driver head in a vise to keep the screwdriver bit from jumping out of the slot you cut. Then apply some slow force. Would take much to know if your...screwed. All you are trying to do is to get that damn thing broken free so you can then work it back and forth to get it out.
If that didn't work, I'd drill and try an easy out (why not?) and if that didn't work, I'd drill a bit more and re-thread the Al rack. I rarely give up on such a problem and it'd say..mostly successful if patient with ...some spectacular failure. My guess is that if the head of the thread (bolt) twisted off..well that's a lot of force and freeing up the remaining thread with a screw slot is really dependent on seriously reducing the friction and that is going to be tough. A small air hammer might work if set real light but it'll likely tear/damage the screw slot.
PS, use Never Seize when reassembling.
If that didn't work, I'd drill and try an easy out (why not?) and if that didn't work, I'd drill a bit more and re-thread the Al rack. I rarely give up on such a problem and it'd say..mostly successful if patient with ...some spectacular failure. My guess is that if the head of the thread (bolt) twisted off..well that's a lot of force and freeing up the remaining thread with a screw slot is really dependent on seriously reducing the friction and that is going to be tough. A small air hammer might work if set real light but it'll likely tear/damage the screw slot.
PS, use Never Seize when reassembling.
__________________
Make ******* Grate Cheese Again
Make ******* Grate Cheese Again
#9
Senior Member
If you have 7-8mm of bolt sticking out, that is more than enough to grab it with vice grips.
Pick up a pair of new, good, sharp vice grips, and you'll be able to pull it out quickly and easily. It doesn't have to be a very big pair.
Pick up a pair of new, good, sharp vice grips, and you'll be able to pull it out quickly and easily. It doesn't have to be a very big pair.
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Roswell, GA
Posts: 8,323
Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta
Liked 1,096 Times
in
726 Posts
#12
SE Wis
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,577
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
Liked 3,431 Times
in
2,079 Posts
While turning with the vise grips if you can see the other end, verify it's turning and not snapping the bolt off closer to the frame.
If there is enough space 2 thin nuts can be jammed and the lower used to back it out.
If there is enough space 2 thin nuts can be jammed and the lower used to back it out.
#14
Senior Member
Genuine Vise-Grips, not knock-offs. If that fails get a left-handed bit set from Harbor Freight and drill out the stub. https://www.harborfreight.com/quickvi...ndex/id/10830/
Over time, the teeth at the corners get rounded and they no longer grip short stubs.
#15
In addition to vice grips, you could also thread two nuts onto the bolt, jam them together, and then remove the bolt with a wrench. If you can get the bolt to move in either direction, then you have a chance of working some oil into the threads.
#17
Global Warming Witness
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Mtl.Qc.Can
Posts: 321
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
+1 Maybe time to get a pair of good vice-grip pliers. A supremely useful tool, IMHO.
With a small caveat: I have some genuine, old-school, made in the USA, Vice-Grips which were given to me but originally bought before my time. I have also purchased some more recently, which were made overseas (China, I think) and they are obviously not made to the same standards, no matter what Irwin says about their QC -- The newer vintage tools' jaws often do not close as accurately against each other, they usually have more slop in their pivot points as well -- My point is, if you are buying a new Irwin Vice-Grip, take the time to compare and contrast between whatever stock you are choosing from, some are definitely nicer than others, from what I have seen, given the variability within their manufacturing tolerances and whatnot.
With a small caveat: I have some genuine, old-school, made in the USA, Vice-Grips which were given to me but originally bought before my time. I have also purchased some more recently, which were made overseas (China, I think) and they are obviously not made to the same standards, no matter what Irwin says about their QC -- The newer vintage tools' jaws often do not close as accurately against each other, they usually have more slop in their pivot points as well -- My point is, if you are buying a new Irwin Vice-Grip, take the time to compare and contrast between whatever stock you are choosing from, some are definitely nicer than others, from what I have seen, given the variability within their manufacturing tolerances and whatnot.
#18
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Oh! That's so clever. I wish I'd thought of that before I started mangling the top of the bolt :/
#19
Senior member
+1 Maybe time to get a pair of good vice-grip pliers. A supremely useful tool, IMHO.
With a small caveat: I have some genuine, old-school, made in the USA, Vice-Grips which were given to me but originally bought before my time. I have also purchased some more recently, which were made overseas (China, I think) and they are obviously not made to the same standards, no matter what Irwin says about their QC -- The newer vintage tools' jaws often do not close as accurately against each other, they usually have more slop in their pivot points as well -- My point is, if you are buying a new Irwin Vice-Grip, take the time to compare and contrast between whatever stock you are choosing from, some are definitely nicer than others, from what I have seen, given the variability within their manufacturing tolerances and whatnot.
With a small caveat: I have some genuine, old-school, made in the USA, Vice-Grips which were given to me but originally bought before my time. I have also purchased some more recently, which were made overseas (China, I think) and they are obviously not made to the same standards, no matter what Irwin says about their QC -- The newer vintage tools' jaws often do not close as accurately against each other, they usually have more slop in their pivot points as well -- My point is, if you are buying a new Irwin Vice-Grip, take the time to compare and contrast between whatever stock you are choosing from, some are definitely nicer than others, from what I have seen, given the variability within their manufacturing tolerances and whatnot.
#20
Really Old Senior Member
Vise grips work much better than vice grips.
#21
Senior member
#22
Senior Member
A week and no response from the OP whether the bolt is out or still stuck?