Joining the Steel is Real Contingent
#51
Banned.
Last edited by chasm54; 03-19-16 at 03:14 PM.
#52
Si Senior
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Naperville, Illinois
Posts: 2,669
Bikes: Too Numerous (not)
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SKS raceblades will fit. And you're not touring all the time...
Last edited by dbg; 03-19-16 at 05:01 PM.
#53
Banned.
I don't give a fig what you ride. But if you're too thin-skinned to tolerate people commenting on your idiosyncracies, don't advertise them.
#54
Forum Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Kalamazoo MI
Posts: 21,153
Bikes: Fuji SL2.1 Carbon Di2 Cannondale Synapse Alloy Viscount Aerospace Pro Raleigh C50 Cromoly Hybrid Legnano Tipo Roma Pista
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Hey guys. Let's keep this civil and on topic.
__________________
#55
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: In Oregon looking for more hills to ride
Posts: 834
Bikes: 2016 Niner RLT Steel, 2015 GT Grade Carbon 105, 2014 NS Bikes Eccentric, 2013 Norco Sight Killer B-1
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I know that most of the bikes referenced here are CV road bikes, and a few modern steel counterparts. That said, steel is enjoying a resurgence in the mountain bike world for hardtails. The bike I built last winter was a modern ChoMo frame. It cuts down chatter, and is compliant as much as can be expected for the trail duty I ask it to perform. Still, I have an aluminum full suspension mountain bike that is a wonderful bike, and aluminum is a great choice for how I ride it. Now my road oriented bikes are Ti and carbon of which I prefer the ride of the carbon more. A lot of that may be due to other factors other them material, but I still like the carbon enough that the Ti bike may go up for sale. If I sell it I want to replace it with something different. A steel road/ touring bike, who knows?
#56
Senior Member
Since this is the "old guy" forum, here's a long winded steel related question:
When buying a bike on a budget a few years back, I was lucky enough to get a lugged/brazed Italian (Atala, circa late 60-early 70's). Research says that company used hi-ten steel back then, not chro-mo. Lucky, because I found the ride quality much nicer than my aluminum MTB to commuter conversion.
During the rebuild I took care to wipe the inside of the framing with a tenacious oil. Chainstays and seatstays had to be sprayed through the weep holes. The outside was primed and rattle canned, and constantly is touched-up to cover usage nicks/scrapes/scratches.
Currently in my mid sixties, can I expect this frame to last for (hopefully) another twenty years? Of course barring catastrophic impacts.....I can play bunny hop and endo guy on the other bike!
These oldies are getting more scarce, I'd hate to try to find another....but it does ride so sweetly!
When buying a bike on a budget a few years back, I was lucky enough to get a lugged/brazed Italian (Atala, circa late 60-early 70's). Research says that company used hi-ten steel back then, not chro-mo. Lucky, because I found the ride quality much nicer than my aluminum MTB to commuter conversion.
During the rebuild I took care to wipe the inside of the framing with a tenacious oil. Chainstays and seatstays had to be sprayed through the weep holes. The outside was primed and rattle canned, and constantly is touched-up to cover usage nicks/scrapes/scratches.
Currently in my mid sixties, can I expect this frame to last for (hopefully) another twenty years? Of course barring catastrophic impacts.....I can play bunny hop and endo guy on the other bike!
These oldies are getting more scarce, I'd hate to try to find another....but it does ride so sweetly!
#57
Have bike, will travel
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Lake Geneva, WI
Posts: 12,284
Bikes: Ridley Helium SLX, Canyon Endurance SL, De Rosa Professional, Eddy Merckx Corsa Extra, Schwinn Paramount (1 painted, 1 chrome), Peugeot PX10, Serotta Nova X, Simoncini Cyclocross Special, Raleigh Roker, Pedal Force CG2 and CX2
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Since this is the "old guy" forum, here's a long winded steel related question:
When buying a bike on a budget a few years back, I was lucky enough to get a lugged/brazed Italian (Atala, circa late 60-early 70's). Research says that company used hi-ten steel back then, not chro-mo. Lucky, because I found the ride quality much nicer than my aluminum MTB to commuter conversion.
During the rebuild I took care to wipe the inside of the framing with a tenacious oil. Chainstays and seatstays had to be sprayed through the weep holes. The outside was primed and rattle canned, and constantly is touched-up to cover usage nicks/scrapes/scratches.
Currently in my mid sixties, can I expect this frame to last for (hopefully) another twenty years? Of course barring catastrophic impacts.....I can play bunny hop and endo guy on the other...
When buying a bike on a budget a few years back, I was lucky enough to get a lugged/brazed Italian (Atala, circa late 60-early 70's). Research says that company used hi-ten steel back then, not chro-mo. Lucky, because I found the ride quality much nicer than my aluminum MTB to commuter conversion.
During the rebuild I took care to wipe the inside of the framing with a tenacious oil. Chainstays and seatstays had to be sprayed through the weep holes. The outside was primed and rattle canned, and constantly is touched-up to cover usage nicks/scrapes/scratches.
Currently in my mid sixties, can I expect this frame to last for (hopefully) another twenty years? Of course barring catastrophic impacts.....I can play bunny hop and endo guy on the other...
In the winter months and during damp weather I ride a carbon Cyclocross bike with fenders. Having more than one bike and keeing a rain bike reduces maintenance time and keeps me on the road year-round.
__________________
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
Last edited by Barrettscv; 03-20-16 at 10:54 AM.
#58
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: northern michigan
Posts: 13,320
Bikes: '77 Colnago Super, '76 Fuji The Finest, '88 Cannondale Criterium, '86 Trek 760, '87 Miyata 712
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My steel beauties are inside the house (security and preservation) they will only come out when it's nice.
If you take care of that frame it will get handed down to your grandkids.
If you take care of that frame it will get handed down to your grandkids.
#59
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Duluth, MN
Posts: 149
Bikes: Raleigh Tamland 1
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During the last three seasons, following heart surgery, I've done most of my miles on the same route. This is an out and back on a somewhat deteriorated "paved" bike rails-to-trail that rises about 700' out of Duluth. The first two years those miles were split between a modern aluminum frame/carbon fork road bike on 25 mm Continental Gatorskins, and an aluminum Specialized Rockhopper hardtail with Rock-Shox and Schwalbe Big Apples. Last spring I purchased a Raleigh Tamland 1: Reynolds 631 frame and fork with 40mm Clement Xplor MSO's.
In the late 60's I raced on a Raleigh Professional, a Rickert customer made road frame, and after that a Dawes racing frame, but hadn't ridden steel for many years. When I got back on steel, riding the same route, the difference was immediately noticeable. It's a bit subtle, and really most noticeable on rough patches. But for all day riding those little differences add up.
By the way, my Tamland weighs about 25 pounds but I've lost 10 pounds over the winter so I'll now be riding the equivalent (for me) of a 15 pound steel framed bike! I'm now at the same weight I raced at when I was 20, albeit with significantly less muscle mass! Losing ten pounds saved me several thousand dollars of bike weight.
In the late 60's I raced on a Raleigh Professional, a Rickert customer made road frame, and after that a Dawes racing frame, but hadn't ridden steel for many years. When I got back on steel, riding the same route, the difference was immediately noticeable. It's a bit subtle, and really most noticeable on rough patches. But for all day riding those little differences add up.
By the way, my Tamland weighs about 25 pounds but I've lost 10 pounds over the winter so I'll now be riding the equivalent (for me) of a 15 pound steel framed bike! I'm now at the same weight I raced at when I was 20, albeit with significantly less muscle mass! Losing ten pounds saved me several thousand dollars of bike weight.
#60
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Watching all of you on O.B.I.T.
Posts: 2,023
Bikes: Bridgestone RB-1. Nicely restored
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My Gunnar is Reynolds 853. You can still get it, if you are willing to pay the price and wait a little. Local frame builder, Peter Mooney, will make your custom frame from Reynolds, Columbus, or Dedacciai. Whatever you prefer. A co-worker had his built a few years back, and he has never looked back.
Once again, that is a beautiful Trek, made back when Trek was truly special.
Any of you west coaster know anything about Frames made by Brent Steelman?
Once again, that is a beautiful Trek, made back when Trek was truly special.
Any of you west coaster know anything about Frames made by Brent Steelman?
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