Flipped tabulars
#1
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Flipped tabulars
Hello all
When I pumped in my tabulars to put a coat of glue on them they flipped.
Is that normal?
If not, what should I do?
Thanks
When I pumped in my tabulars to put a coat of glue on them they flipped.
Is that normal?
If not, what should I do?
Thanks
![](https://i371.photobucket.com/albums/oo159/makajgot/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_6613.jpg)
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#7
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Tread will not expand as Much as the inside/rest, of the tire casing,
that is why when you Glue them on, they squeeze out the wet glue when you pump them Up while the glue is curing..
You stretch them on a dry rim or one whose glue is thoroughly dry
An old Guys Thing, is have a spare wheel or 2, just to stretch the tire on, to make it less Messy when rim and tire are both coated
in fresh tacky-wet Glue..
Given the time to fix a Punctured Sew Up, people bought tires by the dozen, and once they ran out of usable air tight Tubs,
Would spend a day with patch kit, needle and thread, and more glue to replace the tape over the thread seam..
'/,
that is why when you Glue them on, they squeeze out the wet glue when you pump them Up while the glue is curing..
You stretch them on a dry rim or one whose glue is thoroughly dry
An old Guys Thing, is have a spare wheel or 2, just to stretch the tire on, to make it less Messy when rim and tire are both coated
in fresh tacky-wet Glue..
Given the time to fix a Punctured Sew Up, people bought tires by the dozen, and once they ran out of usable air tight Tubs,
Would spend a day with patch kit, needle and thread, and more glue to replace the tape over the thread seam..
'/,
Last edited by fietsbob; 10-16-16 at 12:50 PM.
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General advice is not to put too much pressure in them unmounted, like you've shown - not sure how bad this is, because nobody ever does it, but the hypothesis is that you could damage the rim tape.
When you're ready to put glue on them, put in just enough air that they only half invert - so the tape is facing up instead of out.
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You're supposed to stretch them on the rims - you can use a tubular rim with no (wet) glue, or a clincher rim - pump them up to max.
General advice is not to put too much pressure in them unmounted, like you've shown - not sure how bad this is, because nobody ever does it, but the hypothesis is that you could damage the rim tape.
When you're ready to put glue on them, put in just enough air that they only half invert - so the tape is facing up instead of out.
General advice is not to put too much pressure in them unmounted, like you've shown - not sure how bad this is, because nobody ever does it, but the hypothesis is that you could damage the rim tape.
When you're ready to put glue on them, put in just enough air that they only half invert - so the tape is facing up instead of out.
Hopefully this will work. :/
Last edited by Hrvojeb; 10-16-16 at 01:59 PM.
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Inflating the tires off the rim won't help w/ stretching for easier mounting I don't think, but who knows...
Pre-stretching is not essential & some tires fit tighter than others.
The first time is often a bit messy anyway- go for it.
Pre-stretching is not essential & some tires fit tighter than others.
The first time is often a bit messy anyway- go for it.
#11
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You need spare wheels with sew up tires because of all the time involved in the prep and Gluing..
A spare sew up taken from under your saddle and fitted will not be on there very securely, so ride carefully Home.
It Is then that rolling the tire off the rim in a corner becomes a real Possibility.
Pick up an Old set of TUB wheels off eBay even if they're Both fronts or freewheel rears for the Stretching before Gluing ..
Its a commitment greater than just 2 tires and 1 set of wheels ..
'/,
A spare sew up taken from under your saddle and fitted will not be on there very securely, so ride carefully Home.
It Is then that rolling the tire off the rim in a corner becomes a real Possibility.
Pick up an Old set of TUB wheels off eBay even if they're Both fronts or freewheel rears for the Stretching before Gluing ..
Its a commitment greater than just 2 tires and 1 set of wheels ..
'/,
Last edited by fietsbob; 10-16-16 at 02:24 PM.
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The best way to stretch them is before you put glue on them, mount them on a clean rim, inflate them to around 125 PSI and let them sit over night. IF you don't have a clean tubular rim, you can use a clincher rim for this.
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Why are you letting glue dry on a rim without a tire? You let the glue get TACKY by letting it sit for about 15-20 minutes. Letting glue dry is just wasting glue.
I stretch my tires by hanging a 4 gallon jug of water on one end, and the other end over a nail in the ceiling. Leave it stretching for a week or so...
I stretch my tires by hanging a 4 gallon jug of water on one end, and the other end over a nail in the ceiling. Leave it stretching for a week or so...
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Yep, as has been stated, a spare set of wheels or rims is the best option. Back in the day I used an old-as-the-hills worn out set to stretch the tires. I let them sit on the wheels for a couple of weeks at around 80lbs as I recall. Made glue-up much easier.
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It's been a common method for decades to apply a base layer of glue to both the rim and the tire's base tape and let these layers dry completely. Depending on the rim's base depth/shape a second layer might be a very good idea. Depending on the tire's base tape factory surface a second or even third layer might also be a good idea. All these layers are meant to be thin and not goopy (just like when painting). You wand both the rim and the base tape to be evenly coated and have only a dry glue surface showing.
Then when doing the actual tire mounting a last layer on the rim and mount the tire while this layer is wet. Partial inflation to be able to see the tire's straightness and correct it before the glue sets. Full inflation after tire is straight.
Sew ups (or tubulars) are not well understood by many these days. With new manufacturers coming onto the market the base tapes are not always pre coated with a latex(?) layer so initial glue layers soak in a lot. Rim base contours and tire profiles need to match well enough to have contact across the complete interface. Today's trend to have wide rims can play havoc with narrow sew ups if poor gluing practices are done. There's a reason that good shops charge $50 for a mounting. Depending of the specs they might apply 4 or more glue layers after stretching a tire on the unglued rim for 24 hours.
BTW besides the stretching desire of inflating an unglued tire on a rim for a day or more is the need to test the air retention of said tire. In a batch of 10 tires I expect 1 will have a slow leak. After a tire is glued it's yours, no warranty, no return, nothing more to say with $75 tires these days.
Us old timers only needed one tire roll off to learn our lessons. (And the sound of a well spoke tensioned tireless sew up rim scraping across the pavement is not to be forgotten). Andy.
Then when doing the actual tire mounting a last layer on the rim and mount the tire while this layer is wet. Partial inflation to be able to see the tire's straightness and correct it before the glue sets. Full inflation after tire is straight.
Sew ups (or tubulars) are not well understood by many these days. With new manufacturers coming onto the market the base tapes are not always pre coated with a latex(?) layer so initial glue layers soak in a lot. Rim base contours and tire profiles need to match well enough to have contact across the complete interface. Today's trend to have wide rims can play havoc with narrow sew ups if poor gluing practices are done. There's a reason that good shops charge $50 for a mounting. Depending of the specs they might apply 4 or more glue layers after stretching a tire on the unglued rim for 24 hours.
BTW besides the stretching desire of inflating an unglued tire on a rim for a day or more is the need to test the air retention of said tire. In a batch of 10 tires I expect 1 will have a slow leak. After a tire is glued it's yours, no warranty, no return, nothing more to say with $75 tires these days.
Us old timers only needed one tire roll off to learn our lessons. (And the sound of a well spoke tensioned tireless sew up rim scraping across the pavement is not to be forgotten). Andy.
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1. I doubt that you did anything that would result in a bad mount. You just didn't use the conventional technique.
2. Read everything that the others have posted - all good advice.
3. Did you try to mount them without glue first? This is always a good idea because it is a trial run and will teach you some things. Also because that's the way you pre-stretch.
Good luck. Let us know how it went.
2. Read everything that the others have posted - all good advice.
3. Did you try to mount them without glue first? This is always a good idea because it is a trial run and will teach you some things. Also because that's the way you pre-stretch.
Good luck. Let us know how it went.
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1. I doubt that you did anything that would result in a bad mount. You just didn't use the conventional technique.
2. Read everything that the others have posted - all good advice.
3. Did you try to mount them without glue first? This is always a good idea because it is a trial run and will teach you some things. Also because that's the way you pre-stretch.
Good luck. Let us know how it went.
2. Read everything that the others have posted - all good advice.
3. Did you try to mount them without glue first? This is always a good idea because it is a trial run and will teach you some things. Also because that's the way you pre-stretch.
Good luck. Let us know how it went.
![Smilie](images/smilies/smile.gif)
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