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1979 Raleigh Roadster Tourist aka "Sir Ways A. Tonne"

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1979 Raleigh Roadster Tourist aka "Sir Ways A. Tonne"

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Old 12-29-15, 10:54 PM
  #76  
blackhawknj
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Excellent!
I did not have to remove the fenders or brake pads on mine, I did have to break the chain though. Which I was going to do any since installing the larger cog requires you to lengthen the chain by 2 links.
I have note that the vast majority of DL-1s I have seen have the larger 24" frame. There couldn't have been that many 6 footers back then.
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Old 01-01-16, 11:54 AM
  #77  
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Detail work is continuing on Sir Wayes, but its riding very well. It seems like the chain may be too long, there is some chain rub and the axle is at the rear of the dropouts.
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Old 01-01-16, 12:03 PM
  #78  
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I used the SA Sun Race cable kit provided by a nearby LBS. Another LBS provided a NOS SA shifter and an older NOS plastic plate. I moved the cable to a top tube run and found a new SA turning wheel? and cable clamp.
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Old 01-03-16, 08:43 AM
  #79  
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The de-rusted rack has been sprayed black and the pedals look like new.
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Old 01-03-16, 09:06 AM
  #80  
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[MENTION=298130]browngw[/MENTION]: Sir WAT sure looks great! You did a magnificent job.
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Old 01-03-16, 11:46 AM
  #81  
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Oh, beautiful!
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Old 01-03-16, 01:02 PM
  #82  
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I'd upgrade the rod brakes to drum brakes for a cleaner look and all weather-stopping power.
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Old 01-03-16, 01:15 PM
  #83  
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Try a half link to get the wheel sitting nicely in the dropouts.
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Old 01-27-16, 04:41 PM
  #84  
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Looks nice!

You can get a metal wheel for the shift cable and a metal fitting for the fulcrum clip from Jon the Gentleman Cyclist, look him up in the parts section of the Lake Pepin 3-speed tour website; The Lake Pepin 3-Speed Tour
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Old 02-14-16, 08:48 AM
  #85  
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[MENTION=319010]Narhay[/MENTION] I just have to ask, what is a "half link"? Are you "yanking my chain"?
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Old 02-14-16, 10:24 PM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by browngw
@Narhay I just have to ask, what is a "half link"? Are you "yanking my chain"?
Generally links come in pairs...the outside and inside plate set. When you want to make a chain smaller you generally have to remove two links, otherwise you cannot link an outside to an outside and vice versa. Sometimes two too long is too long and two too short is too short. A half link is where you use one link versus two and your wheel position can be improved.

Something like this. I think I paid a dollar for mine.

https://www.amazon.com/KMC-Bicycle-Ch.../dp/B00HZ8PAQY
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Old 02-15-16, 05:19 AM
  #87  
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wow, great job. I love these roadsters. Yes, 2 links use up about 3/4 of the drop out travel, so half links are what you need to get a perfect fit unless you're lucky. Always handy to have when you're messing around with cog sizes.
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Old 02-15-16, 08:53 AM
  #88  
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[MENTION=319010]Narhay[/MENTION] [MENTION=398265]BigChief[/MENTION] Thanks for the info on half links. Now I won't lie awake nights wondering what it is. LOL
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Old 02-15-16, 11:08 AM
  #89  
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That's about the weight of my '79 Raleigh Sports. I think the Brooks I added to it was actually heavier than the cushioned sprung saddle it came with. I've put a bunch of miles on it so far. The essential addition was a PDW coffee cup holder. I want to get a beer can coozie holder and face it the other way, so I'm ready for either coffee or beer. Last ride I did (the day of the photo), I had a few cans in the rear bag and just filled up the coffee cup once I finished the daily intake of caffeine.

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Old 02-15-16, 12:27 PM
  #90  
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Sir W.A.T. has come a long way since you bought him. He is looking very dapper indeed!

I've had a similar experience with my `71, which I simply refer to as The Roadster. I may give him a name, but he will have to earn it on the Lake Pepin tour.

I see a lot of these DL1s are built up preserving the somber black with white fender-flashes, black saddle, black grips (black tires too, for that matter). It all looks very formal, very correct.
But when I built mine, I decided to add a bit of color, without straying too far from the dignified design ethic. I've also tried to eliminate as much plastic from the bike as possible, going with the sort-of "organic" materials (metal, leather, canvas) used in the earliest models.



Once I saw these creme Schwalbe Delta Cruisers on a Pashley Roadster, and then later on a few DL1s, they became a must-have. I repainted the chainguard on mine, and found a source for the Raleigh waterslide transfer. The original fenders were rusty and dented beyond easy repair, so I've put them aside for a winter project next year, and replaced them with the K.W. units sold by Yellow Jersey.

Yes, I know - they're made in India, rather than England; but they are still building a version of this bicycle over there to this day. The fact that they were once a colony (as were we, I might add) makes them legit, as far as I'm concerned. And these look so much better than what I could do with the originals.

Anyway, yes, I've taken some liberties, but this isn't a museum piece. I plan to put many happy miles on my Roadster, and I hope you do to.

Cheers!

DQR
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Old 02-15-16, 08:24 PM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by DQRider
Sir W.A.T. has come a long way since you bought him. He is looking very dapper indeed!

I've had a similar experience with my `71, which I simply refer to as The Roadster. I may give him a name, but he will have to earn it on the Lake Pepin tour.

I see a lot of these DL1s are built up preserving the somber black with white fender-flashes, black saddle, black grips (black tires too, for that matter). It all looks very formal, very correct.
But when I built mine, I decided to add a bit of color, without straying too far from the dignified design ethic. I've also tried to eliminate as much plastic from the bike as possible, going with the sort-of "organic" materials (metal, leather, canvas) used in the earliest models.



Once I saw these creme Schwalbe Delta Cruisers on a Pashley Roadster, and then later on a few DL1s, they became a must-have. I repainted the chainguard on mine, and found a source for the Raleigh waterslide transfer. The original fenders were rusty and dented beyond easy repair, so I've put them aside for a winter project next year, and replaced them with the K.W. units sold by Yellow Jersey.

Yes, I know - they're made in India, rather than England; but they are still building a version of this bicycle over there to this day. The fact that they were once a colony (as were we, I might add) makes them legit, as far as I'm concerned. And these look so much better than what I could do with the originals.

Anyway, yes, I've taken some liberties, but this isn't a museum piece. I plan to put many happy miles on my Roadster, and I hope you do to.

Cheers!

DQR
The tires look great. I'll keep that in mind next time I need some. The fenders look just right for the frame. Museum pieces have their place. Mostly to serve the more important purpose of guiding and helping us enthusiasts keep these classy bikes on the road.
just for kicks, here's my weighs a ton.
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Old 02-16-16, 12:46 AM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by BigChief
The tires look great. I'll keep that in mind next time I need some. The fenders look just right for the frame. Museum pieces have their place. Mostly to serve the more important purpose of guiding and helping us enthusiasts keep these classy bikes on the road.
just for kicks, here's my weighs a ton.
That is one distinguished looking Tourist. Every detail; from the aged leather saddle to the well-worn finish, shows the uniform patina of a 45 year-old classic bicycle that gets ridden well and often. The chainguard on yours is what mine probably looked like before rust and neglect ruined it. I looked everywhere for that "Tourist" transfer, but to no avail. The one I ended up using says simply "Raleigh", and is in a font found on early 1960s DL1s.

The sheet of waterslides I bought from a fellow in Thailand was so delicate that that was the only one I could salvage - and even that broke into 3 pieces that I had to line up next to each other before the water dried. The rest just sort of disintegrated as soon as I tried to adjust their position. Gone are "The All-Steel Bicycle", and "Made in England". The Heron transfers are still unused and intact. But I suspect they can never be used.

I guess the point I am trying to make here is that your DL1 looks well-used and looked after, whereas mine was obviously left outside for an extended period, and then ridden badly by someone who didn't really care about it. This bike taught me a ton about rust removal and the resilience of the Sturmey Archer AW hub. The fact that the bike survived at all is a tribute to that everlasting black enamel Raleigh used on these frames. The flat-black, oxidized finish came back quite nicely after several applications of Marvel Mystery Oil. But I don't think I will ride it while wearing expensive tweed. It is still slightly greasy to the touch, like an old gun barrel.

Ah, look at the time. I'd better go back to bed, and see if I can dream of dry roads and sunshine.
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Old 02-16-16, 05:30 AM
  #93  
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A fine polishing compound can bring up the luster of faded enamel. Also, take a look here. Excellent quality decals and stickers.
R - Raleigh - VeloCals
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Old 02-16-16, 01:13 PM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by DQRider
Sir W.A.T. has come a long way since you bought him. He is looking very dapper indeed!

I've had a similar experience with my `71, which I simply refer to as The Roadster. I may give him a name, but he will have to earn it on the Lake Pepin tour.

I see a lot of these DL1s are built up preserving the somber black with white fender-flashes, black saddle, black grips (black tires too, for that matter). It all looks very formal, very correct.
But when I built mine, I decided to add a bit of color, without straying too far from the dignified design ethic. I've also tried to eliminate as much plastic from the bike as possible, going with the sort-of "organic" materials (metal, leather, canvas) used in the earliest models.



Once I saw these creme Schwalbe Delta Cruisers on a Pashley Roadster, and then later on a few DL1s, they became a must-have. I repainted the chainguard on mine, and found a source for the Raleigh waterslide transfer. The original fenders were rusty and dented beyond easy repair, so I've put them aside for a winter project next year, and replaced them with the K.W. units sold by Yellow Jersey.

Yes, I know - they're made in India, rather than England; but they are still building a version of this bicycle over there to this day. The fact that they were once a colony (as were we, I might add) makes them legit, as far as I'm concerned. And these look so much better than what I could do with the originals.

Anyway, yes, I've taken some liberties, but this isn't a museum piece. I plan to put many happy miles on my Roadster, and I hope you do to.

Cheers!

DQR
A beautiful piece of machinery. I like the look and personally I never worry too much about museum quality on bicycles. Tasteful touches like grips, tires, saddles, racks bags etc. can really add to the character of your bike. Well done mate!
Sir WAT has black tires because I found some at a FM for $10. The NOS saddle cover was $30. I paid $50 for the bike and about $30 in cables and misc. That makes me all in for $120.
If I decide to keep him, I'm sure upgrades will follow including those gorgeous cream tires.
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Old 03-16-16, 02:45 PM
  #95  
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The "half-link" has been installed on SWAT and I'm now centered in the dropouts and have adequate chain tension. As with all things to do with the drive train on this bike, because of the full chaincase it was a bigger job than anticipated and involved removing the chainring.

Thanks [MENTION=319010]Narhay[/MENTION] for the help.
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Old 11-08-16, 03:07 PM
  #96  
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Let us know how that half link works. I think I need one.
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Old 11-08-16, 06:20 PM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by blackhawknj
Let us know how that half link works. I think I need one.

Lots of use this summer with no problems in the drive train.
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Old 11-08-16, 06:23 PM
  #98  
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Sir Wayes A. Tonne is seeing lots of around town riding this season. He seems to like going to the coffee shop.
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Old 11-30-16, 03:05 PM
  #99  
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I found a half link at a local bike shop that has a nut and bolt design. Very easy to install and to break the chain.
I lucked on several SRAM 24 tooth cogs, with them First Gear is about 72, the others for hill climbing. The Shimano 23 tooth cog works fine too.
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Old 10-30-21, 08:43 AM
  #100  
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I am pleased and proud to report that I am now the new owner of "Sir Wayes A. Tonne".

The transformation wrought on this bike by the op BrownGW is truly incredible.

It literally needs nothing.

I'm very glad to now be the owner of a DL-1 Tourist.

The lucky thing will live indoors, only to emerge on nice days.

Now, if it would only stop raining so I can actually try to ride it.



Sir Wayes A. Tonne
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