Official Specialized Crosstrail owners thread
#426
Junior Member
I added an adjustable stem to mine. Short stem that does 60 degrees, not sure if I like it.
Sure, it is more upright, but I think it is a bit more unsteady. Not sure if it is me with new uprightness or lack of control now...
I'll update when I get some more miles in.
Sure, it is more upright, but I think it is a bit more unsteady. Not sure if it is me with new uprightness or lack of control now...
I'll update when I get some more miles in.
#427
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Hello all,
I have a stock 2013 Crosstrail Disc. A really great all around bike IMHO. After 4 years of enjoyable riding, i think it is time to replace the bottom bracket. i am getting a distinct click from that area on every downstroke of my pedals. It happens when the crank arms are just above horizontal on both sides of the bike. Interestingly, it does not do it when I pedal without loading the crank.
I have tried swapping out pedals and tightening all the bolts, and it does not go away. I keep coming back to the bottom bracket so I am going to replace the silly thing. Like many before me, I have found the many different BB standards to be quite confusing.
Post #361 from this thread indicated the proper BB for a 2016 Crosstrail Sport to be a VP Component VP-BC73 in 68 x 118 like this one: 68 x 118 VP Bracket
I have taken what measurements I can from my BB (still installed on the bike). If I am correct in assuming the 68mm measurement for the shell is the width of the shell, then it appears I need a 68 x 113. Still, my bike is three years older than the example given, and uses a different crank, a Suntour XCT.
Just enough of a difference that I would like to confirm I have narrowed it down correctly. Do I have it right, or have I missed something?
Thanks,
Jeff
I have a stock 2013 Crosstrail Disc. A really great all around bike IMHO. After 4 years of enjoyable riding, i think it is time to replace the bottom bracket. i am getting a distinct click from that area on every downstroke of my pedals. It happens when the crank arms are just above horizontal on both sides of the bike. Interestingly, it does not do it when I pedal without loading the crank.
I have tried swapping out pedals and tightening all the bolts, and it does not go away. I keep coming back to the bottom bracket so I am going to replace the silly thing. Like many before me, I have found the many different BB standards to be quite confusing.
Post #361 from this thread indicated the proper BB for a 2016 Crosstrail Sport to be a VP Component VP-BC73 in 68 x 118 like this one: 68 x 118 VP Bracket
I have taken what measurements I can from my BB (still installed on the bike). If I am correct in assuming the 68mm measurement for the shell is the width of the shell, then it appears I need a 68 x 113. Still, my bike is three years older than the example given, and uses a different crank, a Suntour XCT.
Just enough of a difference that I would like to confirm I have narrowed it down correctly. Do I have it right, or have I missed something?
Thanks,
Jeff
#428
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Hello all,
I have a stock 2013 Crosstrail Disc. A really great all around bike IMHO. After 4 years of enjoyable riding, i think it is time to replace the bottom bracket. i am getting a distinct click from that area on every downstroke of my pedals. It happens when the crank arms are just above horizontal on both sides of the bike. Interestingly, it does not do it when I pedal without loading the crank.
I have tried swapping out pedals and tightening all the bolts, and it does not go away. I keep coming back to the bottom bracket so I am going to replace the silly thing. Like many before me, I have found the many different BB standards to be quite confusing.
Post #361 from this thread indicated the proper BB for a 2016 Crosstrail Sport to be a VP Component VP-BC73 in 68 x 118 like this one: 68 x 118 VP Bracket
I have taken what measurements I can from my BB (still installed on the bike). If I am correct in assuming the 68mm measurement for the shell is the width of the shell, then it appears I need a 68 x 113. Still, my bike is three years older than the example given, and uses a different crank, a Suntour XCT.
Just enough of a difference that I would like to confirm I have narrowed it down correctly. Do I have it right, or have I missed something?
Thanks,
Jeff
I have a stock 2013 Crosstrail Disc. A really great all around bike IMHO. After 4 years of enjoyable riding, i think it is time to replace the bottom bracket. i am getting a distinct click from that area on every downstroke of my pedals. It happens when the crank arms are just above horizontal on both sides of the bike. Interestingly, it does not do it when I pedal without loading the crank.
I have tried swapping out pedals and tightening all the bolts, and it does not go away. I keep coming back to the bottom bracket so I am going to replace the silly thing. Like many before me, I have found the many different BB standards to be quite confusing.
Post #361 from this thread indicated the proper BB for a 2016 Crosstrail Sport to be a VP Component VP-BC73 in 68 x 118 like this one: 68 x 118 VP Bracket
I have taken what measurements I can from my BB (still installed on the bike). If I am correct in assuming the 68mm measurement for the shell is the width of the shell, then it appears I need a 68 x 113. Still, my bike is three years older than the example given, and uses a different crank, a Suntour XCT.
Just enough of a difference that I would like to confirm I have narrowed it down correctly. Do I have it right, or have I missed something?
Thanks,
Jeff
#429
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if your replacing this yourself, Once you take it out, the bottom bracket will have the size labeled on it. I replaced mine with a Shimano UN55 and I haven't had any issues with it since. https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Squar...+bracket&psc=1
I have heard the 68 x 113, 118, etc. with a tapered square spindle is a unique configuration to this type of bottom bracket only. No other bottom bracket standard out there will use this. Is that correct? If so, that would certainly narrow down the choice for the removal tool.
Last edited by Tanstaafl; 02-28-17 at 01:22 PM.
#430
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There are other BB standards that use different tools, but all square tapers use the same tool no matter the size.
#431
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All square taper BB use the same tool for removal and installation. BUT, you will need a long and strong wrench to take the old BB out. I ended up just paying $40 for my LBS to do this since I didn't feel like buying this tool at the time. My wrenches were too small and I couldn't break the BB out.
There are other BB standards that use different tools, but all square tapers use the same tool no matter the size.
There are other BB standards that use different tools, but all square tapers use the same tool no matter the size.
#432
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Has anyone else had problems with wheel bearings?
My 2016 Crosstrail Comp had to have the rear wheel bearings replaced at its first service (about 300km / 200mi). Now it has done 1100km (700mi) and the front wheel is making horrible noises at high speed.
The bike is still under warranty, but I wonder how long these hubs will last after the warranty expires. In all other respects, it's a great bike and I love riding it.
My 2016 Crosstrail Comp had to have the rear wheel bearings replaced at its first service (about 300km / 200mi). Now it has done 1100km (700mi) and the front wheel is making horrible noises at high speed.
The bike is still under warranty, but I wonder how long these hubs will last after the warranty expires. In all other respects, it's a great bike and I love riding it.
#434
Full Member
Good morning all. Been a few months since I posted. 2015 Crosstrail Expert Disc in Medium. Absolutely love this bike! Took it out for the spring shake down the other day and it is just awesome. Been thinking about going the Diverge route. However before I get an entire new bike I am also considering replacing the shock fork on my Crosstrail with an aluminum or carbon fork. Goal is to make the bike a little more nimble, stiffer, and a little lighter without changing the overall DNA of the bike or the experience I have on it. I almost NEVER unlock the fork, and when I do its for some fun fast paved downhill bumpy bike-path. Do any of you Crosstrail or Hybrid owners have any advice on a new fork for me? Thanks!
#435
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Crosstrail Owner since '12
Very happy to have finally found a community like this! Mine is a 2012 and NO ONE else has ridden it but me. LOVE IT! Always owned Trek mountain bikes since I was a kid (37 years old now) but happy I went with this hybrid! It doesn't look like this community is super active with posts BUT feel free to ask me about Crosstrails and hopefully I can help. I ride 4500-5000 miles/year, this bike is very fun to ride and is the best bike I've ever owned. Had it refurbished just over a year ago and still rides like new. Replaced front wheel bearing since but still looks/rolls like new.
#436
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Very happy to have finally found a community like this! Mine is a 2012 and NO ONE else has ridden it but me. LOVE IT! Always owned Trek mountain bikes since I was a kid (37 years old now) but happy I went with this hybrid! It doesn't look like this community is super active with posts BUT feel free to ask me about Crosstrails and hopefully I can help. I ride 4500-5000 miles/year, this bike is very fun to ride and is the best bike I've ever owned. Had it refurbished just over a year ago and still rides like new. Replaced front wheel bearing since but still looks/rolls like new.
Love that colour scheme on your bike.
#437
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That is a nice color to that Crosstrail.....................hmmm....maybe I'm just tired of the all black....wonder if I should just repaint my Crosstrail.....hmmmm.....
#438
Junior Member
Update:
Removed the adjustable stem. Discovered while putting on some fenders, the brake cables where pulled too tight. This caused the brakes to drag the disc and made it harder to pedal. I knew something didn't feel right and I wasn't enjoying the ride. Now I know it just wasn't the new uprightness.
On a different note, any pedal recommendations for this bike that aren't clip pedals? Not sure I want clippers, mostly because shoes in my size are to come by and I'd rather keep it casual for my needs.
Removed the adjustable stem. Discovered while putting on some fenders, the brake cables where pulled too tight. This caused the brakes to drag the disc and made it harder to pedal. I knew something didn't feel right and I wasn't enjoying the ride. Now I know it just wasn't the new uprightness.
On a different note, any pedal recommendations for this bike that aren't clip pedals? Not sure I want clippers, mostly because shoes in my size are to come by and I'd rather keep it casual for my needs.
#439
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Has anyone else had problems with wheel bearings?
My 2016 Crosstrail Comp had to have the rear wheel bearings replaced at its first service (about 300km / 200mi). Now it has done 1100km (700mi) and the front wheel is making horrible noises at high speed.
The bike is still under warranty, but I wonder how long these hubs will last after the warranty expires. In all other respects, it's a great bike and I love riding it.
My 2016 Crosstrail Comp had to have the rear wheel bearings replaced at its first service (about 300km / 200mi). Now it has done 1100km (700mi) and the front wheel is making horrible noises at high speed.
The bike is still under warranty, but I wonder how long these hubs will last after the warranty expires. In all other respects, it's a great bike and I love riding it.
#440
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Thanks for that. The bike has been fixed - apparently no real problem with the bearings, just needed a clean and grease. I suspect they didn't lubricate them properly in the factory, since the bike isn't subjected to particularly harsh riding and is washed with a gentle garden hose (and very rarely washed at that).
#441
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I Bought my wife an Ariel Sport in 2010. After riding it I went out and bought a Crosstrail Sport for myself which is basically the same bike with a straighter top tube.
#442
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Hey Everyone,
I've been lurking for awhile and just "finished" building my Crosstrail so thought I would post. It started as a 2011 (19" frame). I bought it off a guy who lived in an apartment complex so it was left outside and had some surface rust on a couple bolts and the underside of the fork. The bike has always been a tank to me and I wanted a more simplistic drivetrain. I was going to go single speed but decided to go 1x instead. I added a Surly Karate Monkey fork, RaceFace Next CF bars, RaceFace narrow wide chainring going 1x8, changed the cassette to 11-34, RaceFace Atlas stem, and swapped out the seat post for a Thomson Elite.
When I started it was 31.8lbs and now it's 25.8.
I've been lurking for awhile and just "finished" building my Crosstrail so thought I would post. It started as a 2011 (19" frame). I bought it off a guy who lived in an apartment complex so it was left outside and had some surface rust on a couple bolts and the underside of the fork. The bike has always been a tank to me and I wanted a more simplistic drivetrain. I was going to go single speed but decided to go 1x instead. I added a Surly Karate Monkey fork, RaceFace Next CF bars, RaceFace narrow wide chainring going 1x8, changed the cassette to 11-34, RaceFace Atlas stem, and swapped out the seat post for a Thomson Elite.
When I started it was 31.8lbs and now it's 25.8.
#443
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Just finished up some pictures and weighing parts. Here is the breakdown.
Stem - 181g - RaceFace Atlas Stem (31.8mm 65mm)
Bars - 143g cut (175 stock) - RaceFace Next CF 3/4" riser 725mm.
Old Bar & Stem weight was 930g. I was shocked at how heavy it was.
Difference -1lb 5oz
Seat Post - 290g - Thomson Elite
Old Post - 325g
Difference -6oz
Fork - 1137g - Surly Karate Monkey (v-post version)
Old Fork - 2381g
Difference -2lb 11oz
1x8 Conversion w/11-34 Cassette upgrade from 11-32
Cassette 313g
Chainring 50g RaceFace narrow wide 36t chainring
Old parts 2lb 8oz front derailleur, shifter, 11-32, triple chainring
Difference -1lb 12oz
Total 6lb 2oz
Bike before 31.8
Bike After 25.8
Stem - 181g - RaceFace Atlas Stem (31.8mm 65mm)
Bars - 143g cut (175 stock) - RaceFace Next CF 3/4" riser 725mm.
Old Bar & Stem weight was 930g. I was shocked at how heavy it was.
Difference -1lb 5oz
Seat Post - 290g - Thomson Elite
Old Post - 325g
Difference -6oz
Fork - 1137g - Surly Karate Monkey (v-post version)
Old Fork - 2381g
Difference -2lb 11oz
1x8 Conversion w/11-34 Cassette upgrade from 11-32
Cassette 313g
Chainring 50g RaceFace narrow wide 36t chainring
Old parts 2lb 8oz front derailleur, shifter, 11-32, triple chainring
Difference -1lb 12oz
Total 6lb 2oz
Bike before 31.8
Bike After 25.8
#444
Noob Rider
Just finished up some pictures and weighing parts. Here is the breakdown.
Stem - 181g - RaceFace Atlas Stem (31.8mm 65mm)
Bars - 143g cut (175 stock) - RaceFace Next CF 3/4" riser 725mm.
Old Bar & Stem weight was 930g. I was shocked at how heavy it was.
Difference -1lb 5oz
Seat Post - 290g - Thomson Elite
Old Post - 325g
Difference -6oz
Fork - 1137g - Surly Karate Monkey (v-post version)
Old Fork - 2381g
Difference -2lb 11oz
1x8 Conversion w/11-34 Cassette upgrade from 11-32
Cassette 313g
Chainring 50g RaceFace narrow wide 36t chainring
Old parts 2lb 8oz front derailleur, shifter, 11-32, triple chainring
Difference -1lb 12oz
Total 6lb 2oz
Bike before 31.8
Bike After 25.8
Stem - 181g - RaceFace Atlas Stem (31.8mm 65mm)
Bars - 143g cut (175 stock) - RaceFace Next CF 3/4" riser 725mm.
Old Bar & Stem weight was 930g. I was shocked at how heavy it was.
Difference -1lb 5oz
Seat Post - 290g - Thomson Elite
Old Post - 325g
Difference -6oz
Fork - 1137g - Surly Karate Monkey (v-post version)
Old Fork - 2381g
Difference -2lb 11oz
1x8 Conversion w/11-34 Cassette upgrade from 11-32
Cassette 313g
Chainring 50g RaceFace narrow wide 36t chainring
Old parts 2lb 8oz front derailleur, shifter, 11-32, triple chainring
Difference -1lb 12oz
Total 6lb 2oz
Bike before 31.8
Bike After 25.8
But I can see that you saved about 20% which is significant, props.
#445
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VP-196 - VP Components
...along with these nylon strapless mini-toe clips:
VP-700 - VP Components
They are very easy to get in and out of and don't partially lock you in like strapped types do, but offer the benefit of proper foot positioning and avoiding slipping off the pedals, as well as the ability to pull up on your strokes if you want for slightly more power. I had the strapped kind and switched to these recently and find them to be superior in several ways with no downside whatsoever compared to the strapped variety. Plus they work great with any kind of shoes.
Cheers
TRJB
#446
Junior Member
Best of both worlds for me, I'm using these all-alloy touring type cage pedals with sealed roller bearings (264g/pair):
VP-196 - VP Components
...along with these nylon strapless mini-toe clips:
VP-700 - VP Components
They are very easy to get in and out of and don't partially lock you in like strapped types do, but offer the benefit of proper foot positioning and avoiding slipping off the pedals, as well as the ability to pull up on your strokes if you want for slightly more power. I had the strapped kind and switched to these recently and find them to be superior in several ways with no downside whatsoever compared to the strapped variety. Plus they work great with any kind of shoes.
Cheers
TRJB
VP-196 - VP Components
...along with these nylon strapless mini-toe clips:
VP-700 - VP Components
They are very easy to get in and out of and don't partially lock you in like strapped types do, but offer the benefit of proper foot positioning and avoiding slipping off the pedals, as well as the ability to pull up on your strokes if you want for slightly more power. I had the strapped kind and switched to these recently and find them to be superior in several ways with no downside whatsoever compared to the strapped variety. Plus they work great with any kind of shoes.
Cheers
TRJB
#447
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No problem.
The pedals are pretty common, MEC sells them here in Canada, along with lots of other bike shops and retailers, you should be able to find those no problem.
The clips were harder to come by for a reasonable price. I couldn't find them locally anywhere and while they are cheap online, the shipping costs killed them from most retailers.
I eventually found them from this UK eBay parts dealer, and they arrived without issue in perfect condition with all of the accessories (bolts, nuts, plates to attach reflectors to). Price was $10USD including shipping:
PAIR CYCLE MINI-TOE CLIPS FROM VP-700 QUICK ENTRY/ EXIT VERY LIGHTWEIGHT 50% OFF | eBay
Cheers
TRJB
The pedals are pretty common, MEC sells them here in Canada, along with lots of other bike shops and retailers, you should be able to find those no problem.
The clips were harder to come by for a reasonable price. I couldn't find them locally anywhere and while they are cheap online, the shipping costs killed them from most retailers.
I eventually found them from this UK eBay parts dealer, and they arrived without issue in perfect condition with all of the accessories (bolts, nuts, plates to attach reflectors to). Price was $10USD including shipping:
PAIR CYCLE MINI-TOE CLIPS FROM VP-700 QUICK ENTRY/ EXIT VERY LIGHTWEIGHT 50% OFF | eBay
Cheers
TRJB
#448
Falke
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Clanky fork
I've been reading the posts for some time and want to thank everyone for sharing their expertise. Purchased a 2016 Crosstrail new abt. 2 month ago. A joy to ride that's for sure.
One complaint however, when I come off uneven levels or over wide cracks in the pavement, the fork clanks. Like there is a rubber washer missing somewhere. I took it to the shop where I purchased it and they fiddled with it and made it worse. It clanks whether it's locked or not. On small level changes, say abt. 2-5 cm. Nice CLANK!
Is this just inherent in the Crosstrail or a problem? Don't like the metal on metal sound. Not good long term IMO.
Some of you have put lighter forks on that look very appealing.
Thanks.
One complaint however, when I come off uneven levels or over wide cracks in the pavement, the fork clanks. Like there is a rubber washer missing somewhere. I took it to the shop where I purchased it and they fiddled with it and made it worse. It clanks whether it's locked or not. On small level changes, say abt. 2-5 cm. Nice CLANK!
Is this just inherent in the Crosstrail or a problem? Don't like the metal on metal sound. Not good long term IMO.
Some of you have put lighter forks on that look very appealing.
Thanks.
#449
Road Runner
I also added this to my 2012 model. Mine is the Performance Bike house brand and it's worked out well for me from the get-go.
#450
Junior Member
I put it back to stock. It was pulling my front brake cable too tight and mad the disc rub and made it harder to pedal. Plus, I think it feels a bit better back to stock.