Any good spray chain lubes?
#2
I've used DuPont Teflon Multi-use, Liquid Wrench Dry, and Super Lube Multi-purpose from time to time. All work reasonably well. But I don't care much for spray lubes on my chain. I think you're better off with your "drip on" options where you can wipe off the excess to reduce dirt. I particularly like Rock N Roll Gold.
#4
My pants used to fit me
+1 on everything said. I use Rock n Roll Gold for geared, Boeshield for SSFG.
Why do you want a spray lube? Drip lubes are easier to keep off the rest of your bike, I find.
Why do you want a spray lube? Drip lubes are easier to keep off the rest of your bike, I find.
#5
Pure laziness. Running out of Pro Link, thought maybe I'd try something else. Saw the guy in the shop lubricate my geared bike with a spray and thought maybe I'd try it. Sounds like it's messier which makes sense.
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The guy in the shop shouldn't have done that. Sometimes they do and it always bothers me. It is certainly less harmful on a brakeless bike but still just use drip lube. Always use drip lube.
#9
Senior Member
Most I have found create more mess than what they're worth unless you keep a rag behind the spray to catch the over-spray. I use dry waxes exclusively on chains to keep things cleaner but use Tri-Flow or Boeshield (drip bottle) on most other components that don't require grease (brakes, levers, cables, derailleurs, etc)
#11
Senior Member
Yesterday I got some wet Finish Line chain lube in a spray can that came with a little straw like WD-40 does - works pretty good at directing it right onto the chain...
#12
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This. This stuff is really, really good. So far I haven't been able to find it in Japan and that depresses me.
EDIT: For a reasonable price, I mean. I can buy it on Amazon. For $70.
EDIT: For a reasonable price, I mean. I can buy it on Amazon. For $70.
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#13
Senior Member
This is what I've always used FWIW. Spin the crank arm and drip, 2 seconds. https://www.amazon.com/Rock-Roll-Cha.../dp/B002GIHHZU
#14
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Not spray on. What you want is drip on.
I hover around these 3: boeshield or dumonde tech lite for my geared bikes and finishline green wet lube for SS/FG.
Finishline green wet lube is practically the simple green of chain lubes, it doesn't smell like it can kill you.
I hover around these 3: boeshield or dumonde tech lite for my geared bikes and finishline green wet lube for SS/FG.
Finishline green wet lube is practically the simple green of chain lubes, it doesn't smell like it can kill you.
#15
Senior Member
Aha! I knew there was somebody else here besides me who uses Dumonde Tech (although I use the regular). Do you have any particular cleaning & lubing techniques or routines that you could tell me about? While I like the way it works - I've found cleaning/lubing the chain that I use it on to be somewhat of a hassle...
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All but the thickest lubes can be packaged as spray lubes. However, some may be thinned with more solvent to be more sprayable, and spraying offers no benefits in most cases. OTOH - spray packaging raises cost and creates more waste and mess, so it's a poor choice, even if the lube is otherwise identical.
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#17
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Aha! I knew there was somebody else here besides me who uses Dumonde Tech (although I use the regular). Do you have any particular cleaning & lubing techniques or routines that you could tell me about? While I like the way it works - I've found cleaning/lubing the chain that I use it on to be somewhat of a hassle...
After the degreaser is blotted dry, I aim to put ~3/4 of a drop of lube per link roller for my geared bikes. My rocket science of drop size is to touch the tip of the squeeze bottle as a droplet forms to the chain before a drop "falls".
Afterwards, I would backpedal a couple rotations to work in the lube between the chain pins and rollers. Followed by wiping off excess from the outer surfaces of the plates and rollers.
For geared bikes, I usually let the *dry lube* "set" by letting the bike rest afterwards. Not needed for SS/FG as I use wet lube for my SS/FG's which will not dry.
For my FG I substitute the cyclone scrub with taking the chain off at the master link and shaking it in a milk carton/ soda bottle with citrus degreaser. Definitely not a good idea to use a cyclone cleaner on a FG for your finger's sake.
#18
Senior Member
Whenever I lube my chains, there is always a solvent scrub of my chain prior via my park cyclone. I use Zep citrus degreaser from Home Depot straight from the jug, not watered down.
After the degreaser is blotted dry, I aim to put ~3/4 of a drop of lube per link roller for my geared bikes. My rocket science of drop size is to touch the tip of the squeeze bottle as a droplet forms to the chain before a drop "falls".
Afterwards, I would backpedal a couple rotations to work in the lube between the chain pins and rollers. Followed by wiping off excess from the outer surfaces of the plates and rollers.
For geared bikes, I usually let the *dry lube* "set" by letting the bike rest afterwards. Not needed for SS/FG as I use wet lube for my SS/FG's which will not dry.
For my FG I substitute the cyclone scrub with taking the chain off at the master link and shaking it in a milk carton/ soda bottle with citrus degreaser. Definitely not a good idea to use a cyclone cleaner on a FG for your finger's sake.
After the degreaser is blotted dry, I aim to put ~3/4 of a drop of lube per link roller for my geared bikes. My rocket science of drop size is to touch the tip of the squeeze bottle as a droplet forms to the chain before a drop "falls".
Afterwards, I would backpedal a couple rotations to work in the lube between the chain pins and rollers. Followed by wiping off excess from the outer surfaces of the plates and rollers.
For geared bikes, I usually let the *dry lube* "set" by letting the bike rest afterwards. Not needed for SS/FG as I use wet lube for my SS/FG's which will not dry.
For my FG I substitute the cyclone scrub with taking the chain off at the master link and shaking it in a milk carton/ soda bottle with citrus degreaser. Definitely not a good idea to use a cyclone cleaner on a FG for your finger's sake.
#19
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I find that the method of application they suggest, i.e. no through cleaning, just light "washing" doesnt really clean the chain. I believe it's actually how you're intended to use white lightning too. These "self-cleaning" wax-based lubes.
I tried their method as suggested on the bottle and my chain got really dirty as did the rest of my drivetrain components and eventually it started not feeling as "smooth" as it used to. Even if it "self-cleaned", it did not do enough on its own and the leftover dirt just accumulated on itself over time/ additional applications. I would prep a new chain by taking off all the factory lube with an agitated solvent bath.
If anything, it's intended to penetrate and "bond" between the rollers and pins. I do not think a quick whirl through a cyclone tool totally destroys it but "refreshes" it instead.
#20
Senior Member
Oh that's actually how I use dumonde tech too!
I find that the method of application they suggest, i.e. no through cleaning, just light "washing" doesnt really clean the chain. I believe it's actually how you're intended to use white lightning too. These "self-cleaning" wax-based lubes.
I tried their method as suggested on the bottle and my chain got really dirty as did the rest of my drivetrain components and eventually it started not feeling as "smooth" as it used to. Even if it "self-cleaned", it did not do enough on its own and the leftover dirt just accumulated on itself over time/ additional applications. I would prep a new chain by taking off all the factory lube with an agitated solvent bath.
If anything, it's intended to penetrate and "bond" between the rollers and pins. I do not think a quick whirl through a cyclone tool totally destroys it but "refreshes" it instead.
I find that the method of application they suggest, i.e. no through cleaning, just light "washing" doesnt really clean the chain. I believe it's actually how you're intended to use white lightning too. These "self-cleaning" wax-based lubes.
I tried their method as suggested on the bottle and my chain got really dirty as did the rest of my drivetrain components and eventually it started not feeling as "smooth" as it used to. Even if it "self-cleaned", it did not do enough on its own and the leftover dirt just accumulated on itself over time/ additional applications. I would prep a new chain by taking off all the factory lube with an agitated solvent bath.
If anything, it's intended to penetrate and "bond" between the rollers and pins. I do not think a quick whirl through a cyclone tool totally destroys it but "refreshes" it instead.
Yeah, your experiences pretty much mirror mine...
However I do just relube my Dumonde Tech chain after just a quick wipe like they suggest whenever it seems to need it and that stuff does build up and shed onto other nearby parts of my bike. Then when I try to give the chain a good cleaning it is a helluva job and takes several tries, and my nice silver chain is stained black. Then AFAIAC it is quite a chore to relube it right.
I do like though, how when things are right, my chain is smooth and dead-silent (even with an out-of-round ring)...but I will prolly go back to my good ol' dry wax lubes when my little Dumonde Tech bottle is used up
Edit - BTW I don't care much for the spray Finish Line wet lube I got that I mentioned earlier in this thread - not because of it being spray, but wet lube just is no good for my neighborhood...
Last edited by IAmSam; 08-15-17 at 05:30 PM.
#21
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#22
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I'm also a Dumonde Tech Lite fan and just use it per the instructions.
I read good things about Boeshield T-9 but was disappointed when I tried it. It barely gets me thru a weekend before my chain starts chirping. The Dumonde lasts a long time and I've gone from 3 chains a year to 2 chains a year (about 3500 miles per chain).
I read good things about Boeshield T-9 but was disappointed when I tried it. It barely gets me thru a weekend before my chain starts chirping. The Dumonde lasts a long time and I've gone from 3 chains a year to 2 chains a year (about 3500 miles per chain).