R200

I just purchased this Trek with the hope of restoring it myself and I need some advice from the experts here who have done this kind of thing before. I have numbered my main questions to make them easier to respond to. My commute is almost twenty miles each way so it would primarily be used for that. However, I would also like to use it for some overnight camping based touring. I like the idea of it having a complete Reynolds 531 frame and I am looking forward to seeing if it rides like spring-steel as some people say. Although it doesn't have the 1.5 cm extended chain stays of the later Trek 720, I weigh about 230 pounds so my thinking is that I might be better off with the tighter geometry when I get it fully loaded.

The bike looked rusted out when I bought it, but it luckily turned out to have been mostly dried dirt. I was told that it had been stored in barn for about 30 years. I think there must have been some kind of mud-dauber wasps in the area since every nook and cranny was filled with mud and dried organic matter. It cleaned up nicely with only a few spots of actual corrosion. I am thinking about soaking some cotton balls with Evapo-rust and wrapping them on the corroded areas with clear plastic stretch wrap overnight to remove the rust, then painting the spots with clear nail polish to protect it. (1) Does this sound like a good approach or is there a better way?

According to the online Vintage-Trek serial number database, it is a 25.5" model 71X produced in 1981 with the components most closely resembling a 715. The only notable differences between it and the contemporaneous catalog description are that the 700c Rigida rims have inexplicably been replaced with 27" Rigida rims. I am surprised that anyone would substitute the older rim size so I don't know what might have happened. (2) Should I convert it to 700c rims or are there good tires available in 27"? The old tires are completely rotted out so now would be the time. (3) Also, could anyone recommend a good wide tire for this type of frame and application?

The only other difference is that it appears that the front Suntour VX-GT derailleur was replaced with a Suntour XC derailleur. It doesn't look as well made as the rear Suntour VX-GT derailleur. (4) Is there any reason to replace the front derailleur or should I leave it as is?

The hubs and bottom bracket spin freely and the head tube rotates smoothly so I am tempted to ride it as is. (5) Should I repack the bearings preemptively to avoid damaging something? The freewheel has more resistance but I have never serviced one before so I am not sure what to do.

The seat is a Brooks Professional. The copper rivets are corroded and the leather is cracked a little. I have thought about buying some Brooks leather conditioner but I am worried that it might soften the leather up too much. (6) Does this saddle look salvageable or should I put a more modern saddle on it?

The bottle holders and rear rack are embossed with "Jim Blackburn" but there aren't any other accessories. (7) Is there any other accessories I should buy such as fenders? (8) If so, are there any fenders that anyone could recommend that would look good on a vintage bike like this?

I am thinking of putting a wider handlebar on it. (9) Other than replacing the hoods and re-wrapping the handlebar, is there anything else anyone here can recommend for improvements?

Any and all input is appreciated!

thumpism 

I had a 531 Trek a couple of years older in that size, purchased as the 710 frameset and built up with stuff I already had. Nice find! Put some conditioner on the Brooks and ride it until it gives out. You might get years and many happy miles out it. Regarding the rest of the bike, just clean and lube it and ride it for a while before changing anything. I would probably go for aero brake levers and most of my bikes have fenders; nearly any brand will do (SKS, Planet Bike, etc.).

I'll tell you one thing: The reason I got rid of mine is that on long rapid descents when touring with front handlebar bag and rear panniers it had a disturbing oscillation that could have become a real hazard. I don't keep bikes that do that.

bikemig 

Lovely bike, great find, and well worth restoring.

You should take that bike completely apart. That will make it easier to over verhaul it (replace all the ball bearings and use fresh grease) as well as check for any rust that you will want to deal with and just make it easier to clean the bike. You will also want to replace all the consumables including all the cables. You will likely need to replace the chain as well.

Salamandrine 

First, congratulations. This was a top shelf touring bike and a lucky find.

Yep, at this point the bike needs to be completely overhauled. All bearings should be cleaned and repacked: headset, hubs, bottom bracket, pedals. Stem, seatpost greased. New chain and probably freewheel wouldn't hurt. Cables and housing. New brake pads. I'd probably spray out the inside of the frame with LPS3 or boeshield while you have it apart.

Saddle looks pretty good. I've seen much worse. Mostly that's just dust and scuffing. Get a small can of proofide and give it a couple light coats. Should be good as new.

At the time, 27" was considered the more sensible choice for touring, because the tires were more common and you could always pick up a new one in whatever little town you were in. Not so true now. More of an issue is that Rigida rims were a bit on the light side and relatively soft. You can certainly use them in the interim though. There are good tires available, panarace pasela for example. If you plan to tour, I'd consider rebuilding the wheels with some more modern 'retro' rims like Sun CR18 or H+Son TB14 in 700c.

Fenders if you plan to ride it in the rain, otherwise no. New modern style aero levers might be a good upgrade to consider at some point. I have TRP RRL levers and I like them better than vintage levers. Aside from comfort, you can turn bike upside down if you need to work on it in camp. Maybe SPD pedals.

ryansu

Nice score, to answer one of your questions - there are a number of good 27" tires out there The Panaracer Pasela is particularly nice. Your saddle doesn't look too bad, I rehabbed a saddle last year and used a dremel with a very small very brush for the rivets and carefully cleaned the saddle before starting on the treatment - more info here. and here

Lascauxcaveman 

If the rims are in good shape, stick with them for now. Convert later if you think you need to for some reason. Start with 27" x 1 1/4" Panaracer Paselas. They're both good and budget priced.

Leave it. Clean it and lube it to make sure it's moving freely.

Yeah. Buy a set of cone wrenches and have at it. Google it if the process isn't obvious to you.

Looks pretty good to me. If you're riding it more than a couple miles a day, it should buff up nicely just from use. May or may not need any conditioner, but if you do treat it, use Proofide or Sno-Seal. Don't soak in it any kind of oil or some damn thing like that. People always seem to want to do too much on these old leather saddles. Don't be that guy. And don't ever let the saddle get wet.

If you're going to ride it on wet ground, then yes, fenders, absolutely. Whatever fits. I like the Velo Orange stainless ones because they look fantastic and have long coverage, but anything works. Fenders are sometimes a lot of hassle to mount, and due to clearance issues, the bigger the tires are, the harder it is, on most bikes.

Ride it for awhile before you change the bars. They might be fine for you. BTW, the chain looks pretty rusty from here. If you have any sticky links, terminate that thing with all due haste and buy a modern 8-speed chain. A very good $15 investment.

Really cool bike, BTW. I wish I had one.

R200

That is a good recommendation, I will replace and repack the bearings as well as the cables and housings. Would you recommend trying to find matching touch-up paint or simply using something like clear nail polish to prevent further corrosion?

R200

Thank you, that makes sense! I couldn't figure out why someone would want the older standard but I wasn't thinking about it in the context of the time. I will also follow your other recommendations and I will think about the aero levers. It makes sense to be able to invert the bike to service it on the road, but I like the retro look of the non-aero setup.

R200

I just ordered a set of Pasela's and I plan to follow your detailed example on the Brooks seat. My seat looks easy by comparison to what you started with!

bikemig 

I use fine sand paper to remove the rust and yeah it will remove some paint as well. I then use a flat white rustoleum to touch the area up. Sometimes I leave it just like that. I'm getting ready to rehab my winter commuter and I'm not going to try to match the paint. I could but I don't really care since it's a beater bike. If I really like the bike, I find a model paint that is close in color and paint over the flat white.

R200

Thank you very much for the detailed answers to all of my questions. I plan to follow all your good advice and also in addition pick up a new freewheel to go with the new chain.

R200

Thank you for the warning, that could be dangerous! Do you remember if you were coasting, pedaling, or braking at the time of the oscillation? There is a free computer program developed at Cornell called JBike6 which can calculate the speeds at which a bicycle (or motorcycle) is stable or unstable (along with the type of instability). We would need an estimate of the weight you had in the front and rear bags along with your weight at the time. I could then measure the critical dimensions or my frame. We would then have all of the inputs needed to calculate the "never exceed speed" for this model of bicycle. Although it looks fairly conventional, there could be a serious issue with the geometry.

R200

Thank you, I will see if I can find some paint that matches the color of the frame.

thumpism 

Coasting. These are the downhills that you work for and need not pedal for the full benefit, with speeds of 30-40 MPH, probably. I didn't then and don't now usually ride with cycle computers but in some cases was keeping up with traffic. Braking did not help and even made it feel worse. It was a diagonal oscillation, lower right to upper left (or the opposite) and extremely unsettling. I've read since that 73 degree parallel frames like that Trek can be susceptible to such things but have no proof. My old Batavus was even worse, doing what in motorcycling would be called a tankslapper. Recent touring on a Bridgestone RB-T revealed the same behavior but to a lesser degree. Still bothersome, so I will probably look for another bike to replace it for touring. I was 180 and the RB-T carried 50 pounds; four panniers, handlebar bag, racktop bag in front and bedroll on the rear rack. I also toured the RB-T with a B.O.B., the same handlebar bag and the racktop bag on the rear with the same weight and had some slight oscillation. Shifting the load on the trailer helped reduce that to almost imperceptible. Previous instances were with rear panniers, handlebar bag and bedroll on rear racktop on both the Trek and the Batavus before it, probably 30 pounds. I was probably 160 at the time. Treks are great looking bikes and I hope my experience with it was an anomaly.

I hope you never get to experience such eyepopping fun while on your Trek but just want you to be aware of the possibility.

rhm

Your 715 is beautiful, in its way! What are the brakes?

I have 1982 720 frame that I bought new in 1983. I never liked the color (same color as yours) and i had it powder coated a couple years ago. I've toured on it several times over the years and it's given me no trouble. But I am lighter, in the 165-170 lb range; heavier riders complain the ride is noodly, but I haven't had that problem.

Whatever: it is what it is. But for best loaded handling, get low rider panniers for the fork and put all the heavy stuff up there. You have plenty of room for bulky stuff like sleeping bag, tent, Cheerios, etc on the rear, but put the weight up front.

My bike is fully loaded now, leaving for a short tour tomorrow.

thumpism 

Mine was the same color and I think Trek called it Pewter. Dupont Imron finish, I believe.

crank_addict

Terrific find and project. I would retain almost all the components, dismantle entirely and go through all of it. Replace consumables. Touch up the paint and / or take care of any corrosion spots.

Since you've committed to the 27" and Pasella's, this may serve you but in time would suggest to find another wheelset in 700c or re-lace with different rims. I don't know what type you purchased but in my experience the thin sidewall Pasella is an acceptable decent rider but compromise as medium duty. Consider your weight plus cargo and then if going into the heavier grade Pasella's and these steel bikes ride like an ally frame -no thanks. I've also had three sidewall blowouts with the Pasella 27" on our vinti Santana. Use them and see how they work for you as a commuter. Going with 700c opens up many choices, especially if you plan to get the most out of that great frame.

For mudguards, I'd avoid metal type. Noisy and at worst if you pick-up some larger debris -say a branch, it could be a hazard. If you went with a 700c wheel, you could go with the Axiom Paceline DLX plastic mudguard. The Reflex option has a nice looking silver center but is a brilliant reflector for night.

Mauriceloridans

I have an '83 Trek 520 that is the same color which the catalog calls "pewter". I never found a match for it. If you do I would like to know about it. Btw it came with the same Blackburn rear rack. I did change to 700c wheelset to gain fender clearance and because I wanted cassette. It's my daily beater and I bent a few rear axles with that maillard hub. I would wear out what you have now first.

The Golden Boy 

Sorry to jump in late, [MENTION=123279]R200[/MENTION].

Everyone has given you great advice- grease up everything.

I'm a fan of selectively upgrading old touring bikes. These "vintage" frames are so graceful with the skinny tubing, the level top tube and shiny components. But old touring bikes are special because they're typically built up with ATB components that give a full-on "business" stance to the elegance.

You've got some great parts on there, but I wouldn't hesitate to build it up all Class A. The Suntour XC front derailleur would have been from Suntour's top of the line ATB group. (Just plain XC). Now, does that XC match the VX... probably not. I'd probably swap it out with something that matches nicer. IMO.

As far as wheels and tires... unless you have a nice set of 700c wheels, the 27s will be good. You've already ordered a set of Paselas- and they're great tires. The widest "road" tires I know of are the Swift Tire Sand Canyon tires at 27 x 1 3/8".

I personally prefer wider bars- and the Tektro RRL levers are really cool, even if they don't quite look "vintage."

The racks are really cool- it's great to have front and rear matching racks.

All in all- this was a GREAT bike in its day- it's still an excellent bike and is worthy of building up really nice. I'd say use to he finest parts from back in the day with some of the really good "vintage inspired" modern stuff. Think "silver".

crank_addict

Suggest to take a look at the Toyota color match by Dupli-Color (BTY1605 Antique Sage Pearl -1B2)

Salamandrine 

RE the Brooks Saddle.

That's a Brooks Pro with brass rivets, not steel. I suggest that you do not use a Dremel wire brush on them. That would work well on the chrome rivets of a B17, but not brass rivets of a pro. All it will do is scratch them. Just put some brasso or simichrome or whatever metal polish you prefer onto a dremel felt tool instead. In fact that oxidation looks so minor I'd be inclined to polish them up by hand. Main hazard is getting black polishing residue on the leather. You could always mask.

63rickert

Riding the saddle will do all the polishing required. For old and dry you definitely want to start with a good dose of Proofide top and bottom.

For fenders SKS/Esge has barely changed since that bike was new. Doesn't need to change because it was always good. And still cheap. If they do not look wonderful enough get them painted to match. Will fool almost everyone into thinking you have super custom fenders.

My question is do you really need/want a frame that big? 25.5" is just huge. The old Treks had very long top tubes as well. This is a bike for persons at least 6'3" and likely suits 6'4" or 6'6" better. If that is you this is your bike. Do remember these are skinny tubes and long tubes. Long tubes are long lever arms. 230 pounds is near limits for old skinny tubes. As a long distance commuter that may turn out to be perfect - flex and comfort. For camping loads you want a stouter frame. For any comparable bike in current production larger diameter tubes are used. For small frames those fat tubes are questionable and one reason of many to prefer vintage. For a very tall and somewhat heavy rider large diameter tubes are the way to go.

1981 rims were not that reliable for 230# riders. For commuting you want a wider heavier rim. They did exist in 1981, just weren't imported to these shores. For a strong rim with vintage look Velo Orange Diagonale. They are heavy but so is the rider.

jpaschall

I'm 6'2" and ride 24-25.5 frames. I also weigh 270 and the 1983 720 I had was a litte flexy but was fine/unnoticeable for normal riding.

This is a very good looking old Trek. I wish the 720 I found had been this size. Everyone has given good advice. Lube everything, clean up the frame with some simple green or similar mild detergent. When/if you get new wheels, I would go 700c and stronger as 63rickert suggested.

Aubergine 

My one additional comment is that you consider replacing the front rack with a Blackburn lowrider model. You can find them on eBay for decent prices. These racks, as the name suggests, carry the weight of panniers down low, so should help with the wobble issue.

I still use the lowriders that I put on my 1980 touring bike. It is a nice rack.

RiddleOfSteel

Sweet vintage Trek! Love the tall size, too.

Many great suggestions, and I will double echo the new brake pads suggestion as these old pads are, well, really old and thus very hard and without much ability to stop you and the bike any more. And for riding in the rain, it's even more critical. Salmon Kool Stops (orange/pink/red "salmon" color) are excellent for wet and work well as dry pads. They do, IIRC, make inserts for vintage brakes, though I prefer finding pad/holder units that slide into vintage caliper slots yet have adjustable toe (like modern brake calipers).

Enjoy the refurbishing of your new old Trek. Take your time and you'll get to know it even more. Full 531 is special, and vintage large Treks are a companion out on the road.