34505838

you have to do irt a bunch of times i've already done it 3 times and it's improved but i have to do it more times (it has to get really cold and for a long time - it takes a while to freeze (and no light) / (the fork and the seat tube) (it's steel tange prestifge ritchey logic - i plufgged the bottom bracket first i stuck duct tape around the inside of each side of the bottom bracket and put an inner tube in and inflated (this worked but the inner tubve stuck way out on either side and was too wide - so then i realized i was going to do it a bunch of times i installed the bottom bracket and took some expanding spray foam (for cracks in house) i got a long tube put the tube down the seat tube and sprayed like that (but i put too much and had to stick a thing down and move around but that made it go down / it wasn't completely water tight though so i poured turmeric down the down tuve and some dish soap olive oil / it ended up working vbut - vbecause i rtried to soldify the olive oil first that workd but then i think it was solidified it floated up to the top but there were some leaking barely but all the liquid stayed in / the other is i used vinegar (i think to prevent rust) vinegar is harder to freeze so really has to be down to about 20 at least (even with water it has to b e cold - added could prob ably just use a foam ball or cylinder and tire sealant (i don't know - maybe - you could probably i don't know) the foam spray is a mess the tube i got was softer material (irt was silicone even with double step on nozzle) and the spray went everywhere all over my face my clothes the carpet the walls the refrigerator- if it goes everywhere it's easier to remove after it dries - (should definitely wear a face mask because it could get in your eyes (also need ventilation) - for the fork i just filled the bath tube all the way put the fork in (i had packaging tape on the wall and toilet paper to dry plugged it with my finger added tape - the fork i didn't think it was working at first but it's small improvement each time same with seat tube i haven't i did the fork more times because plufgfing the tube is hard i couldn't use a patch plus if you have to wait for the weather

- alright disregard this message but i don't feel like typing again the point is that you have to do it a bunch of times and it's hard to [plug the tube

34505838

update: don't do the spray foam it's a mess and goes everywhere (like in other tubes) and is hard to get out) also isn't completely waterproof leaks everywhere / also the vinegar i don't think expands the same way water does it's crunchy when frozen i've been making progress with the fork (water) but not on the seat tube since the first time with water (i've freezed 5 times) also the turmeric looks like rust and gets everywhere (i mihgt try painting a foam cylinder or ball with rubber cement and pushing it inside the seat tube)

34505838

alright i cut out a piece of foam from a large sponge painted it with a bunch of rubber cement and pushed it into the bottom of the seat tube see how that goes i have a few days before it gets cold again (this is for a lugged bottom bracket so there isn't a small hole with a smooth surface to patch and also it bends in where the down tube hits the seat tube so i can't just plug) i still have about a 2" piece of spray foam pushed up into the downtube - the small crack between the bottom bracket and the bottom bracket shell 3X expanding foam went through and filled up the down tube i have to remove the fork but i'm going to try to use brake cables to push it out from the other side

34505838

okay this is a little off subject but i got the foam out of the down tube (without removing the fork) by pushing a shifter cable through the water bottle mounts the foam was already not attached to the tube because i had already pushed it farther up the down tube i first tried a plastic zip it drain clog remover with hooks but that didn't work the foam probably only weighs like 2 grams but it was wet there was water on the other side of the foam

34505838

alright the rubber cement / foam method does not work maybe it would work if i had some type of liquid goo that i could put down into the bottom of the seat tube with a tube and then it would dry (and i could knock/push it out later with a stick

34505838

i was thinking liquid latex (says it shrinks 3% when drying) powdered clay thick latex paint - maybe the best way is to tape the groove at the top of the seat tube and use a cork plug and do it upside down - with all other tubes you could patch (at least one end) with a patch

34505838

so what i did is i took a bucket and put it under the bottom bracket i remembered i had some soft scrub lemon kitchen and bathroom cleaner it always solidifies at the bottom of the container and i had kept adding water and trying to mix the solid stuff into it but it kept solidifying at the bottom so i took a chopstick and stirred it up (it was really solidified so i could only get some of it into the water at a time - a lot like clay) and poured it into the seat tube then added some water stirred it up then poured some more into the seat tube it was a steady stream i just did this and now it's only dripping about once every 5 seconds or so and holding water

Kontact

Why would you put corrosive vinegar in your bike?

34505838

to remove rust but it doesn't matter (the frame was full of rust on the inside) probably not the best idea - truthfully i don't think rust is really an issue - when i put in just water in the fork for a bunch of days then i poured it out there was no rust in the water

so i'm doing this to the max to see what happens since i have an extra frame and fork - that's the same - so now i've freezed 6 times the dent is almost gone in the fork but the fork blades were oval and now the fork blade is round (more round) it's about a mm wider and a mm shorter front to back than it was before - the seat tube is still round and looks cool but the dents is not gone yet in the seat tube - i think the fork is done for use

i'll probably still keep going with the fork to see what happens or maybe i could also freeze the other side of the fork too to make them both round so they match

34505838

it did look like the vinegar corroded the foam somewhat and that might have been part of the problem with the foam but i will still say not to do the foam

34505838

conclusion (for me): i freezed 8 times the dent in the fork and the seat tube are at about .5mm indentation each (maybe slightly less) and i can't notice any improvement each time i freeze since (maybe if i froze another 20 times there would be an improvement i don't know) there was a very small barely detectable dent above the dent on the fork and that one went completely away - it would be easy if i could somehow put a non leaking semi permanent plug in the bottom of the seat tube (that i could later remove) so that way i could keep the bike built and then any time it got below 25°F just remove the seat and fill the seat tube with water and put it outside but i haven't figured out how to do that - also if fork blades are oval shaped fill both blades with water because freezing will make them more round, alright that's it .

Kontact

Vinegar is not going to affect foam. Acetone eats most foaming plastics.

34505838

alright cool i freezed 9 times and i haven't been able to get the dents out with either vinegar or water i'm not eliminating the idea that i could remove the dents by freezing 20 more times but i'm not sure, the dent on the seat post is from the front derailleur clamp and i haven't seen barely any progress with it, the one on the fork was bigger and more round and i've seen more progress with that dent

34505838

11 times i'm out of weather but (i just saw on youtube) somebody or some people were saying, this was for a motorbike, to wrap a towel around the dented part so that it freezes last and then there's more pressure

34505838

originally with the vinegar i read online somewhere that it got rid of rust so what i did is i filled the tubes with vinegar and it did get rid of most of the rust but then when i removed the vinegar it was wet and then it air dried the rust came back (i didn't really get very much rust doing this but i had sprayed the frame with frame saver - really this was all too much work would skip all of it .

34505838

this is my complete summary i had a crimp from the front derailleur in my seat tube also my fork had a crown the blades went off to the left so the wheel wasn't centered - i concluded that it was manufactured this way the dropouts were bent to the right to compensate but not enough the wheel was still a few mm to the left - i tried using a rebar bender to bend the fork blades at the top to the right but dented the fork (i could do it fine from the top to the bottom which i ended up doing and so the fork has a wave effect - which is cool - but the wheel is centered - so freezed/froze the seat tube like 15 times and the fork blades maybe like 8 times - i couldn't get the crimp out of the seat tube - it's like a small line dent - the fork blade the dent lessened maybe like 70% after the first 3 freezes and then nothing after that - but i filled the fork blade completely up with water top to bottom (no air) and used a hand warmer on the dent so that part freezed last (i also did this a bunch of times with the seat tube - the hand warmer but didn't work) and i got the dent mostly out the fork blade rounded out more instead of being as oval so i had to freeze the other fork blade to to get it even - then i tried on more time same thing - i should have just done it as is but i packed more water in totally completely full again - and the dent went out - past gone and bulged out and i split the fork blade too nearby - once the dent went out i was able to use some vice grips cloth mostly a small hammer to tap the fork blade and split to the right shape - so then i drilled two little holes at either end of the split and that's where i am - i tried contacting welding brazers but couldn't find anybody to do it too small of a job - braze the split - so i'm going to use a rotary tool (like a dremel) to cut a small notch into the split seam (about 2cm long) and use devcon plastic steel epoxy