What kind of biking do I do?
#26
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No. I'm not saying that there should be a linear relationship between distance ridden and how much someone spends on a bike.
What I am saying is that it doesn't take a very fancy bike to go for a 90 minute bike ride at a moderate pace once or twice a week, and I wouldn't spend three thousand of my own dollars on that when I can get a new 105 aluminum disk endurance bike for well under a thousand. In fact, I just bought one for my wife for under $700. If you want to spend $8,000 on your bike or the OP wants to spend $3,000 go right ahead. It's your money. I spend plenty of money on stuff I don't really need.
What I am saying is that it doesn't take a very fancy bike to go for a 90 minute bike ride at a moderate pace once or twice a week, and I wouldn't spend three thousand of my own dollars on that when I can get a new 105 aluminum disk endurance bike for well under a thousand. In fact, I just bought one for my wife for under $700. If you want to spend $8,000 on your bike or the OP wants to spend $3,000 go right ahead. It's your money. I spend plenty of money on stuff I don't really need.
OP came out and ask what kind of bike he should be riding and he gave a budget. Why are you all imposing your own standards, values, and judgment on him, telling him he doesn't 'need' a bike that expensive for riding 25 miles. He didn't ask if he should spend $3000 on a bike.
#27
Jedi Master
[MENTION=381746]mcours2006[/MENTION], you are correct. OP, ignore my previous editorial comments about your budget.
#28
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Haha - I fully understand that spending $3000 on a bike isn't necessary. Honestly, the $20 cadence sensor I recently got has me going a lot faster then I suspect a new bike will.
A new toy will get me pumped - I'll ride more, further, commute the full 30 mile round trip to work on nice days rather than the 15 I currently do.
Also, the cantilever brakes with inline levers on my Crossrip can barely stop me. I don't need 105 components but it's difficult to stop from the hoods on my current bike hence the desire for hydraulics. From what I've seen so far, hydraulics seems to come with around 105 comps and higher.
A new toy will get me pumped - I'll ride more, further, commute the full 30 mile round trip to work on nice days rather than the 15 I currently do.
Also, the cantilever brakes with inline levers on my Crossrip can barely stop me. I don't need 105 components but it's difficult to stop from the hoods on my current bike hence the desire for hydraulics. From what I've seen so far, hydraulics seems to come with around 105 comps and higher.
#29
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Got to agree with these guys. And I think you're looking for an "endurance" bike. The positioning you refer to is all about aero, but an endurance road bike will give you better comfort and if set up right offer good drop positioning for short term aero-speeds as well. The Roubaix offers that and would be my first choice at that budget, but do yourself a favor and test ride/compare the Specialized Allez before deciding. You might be surprised how much the comparison will show you.
#30
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If you are going to stick with Specialized, this is the answer:
https://www.specialized.com/ae/en/roubaix-comp/p/115635
Though it might exceed your budget slightly.
But taking a look at other makes, like Giant:
https://www.specialized.com/ae/en/roubaix-comp/p/115635
It's similarly spec'ed, but significantly less expensive, but also no shock absorbing tech on the handlebar
https://www.specialized.com/ae/en/roubaix-comp/p/115635
Though it might exceed your budget slightly.
But taking a look at other makes, like Giant:
https://www.specialized.com/ae/en/roubaix-comp/p/115635
It's similarly spec'ed, but significantly less expensive, but also no shock absorbing tech on the handlebar
Also, the Giant link you pasted is a link to the Roubaix - I'll take that as a subconcious double endorsement of the Roubaix
#31
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I'd also toss out the Giant AnyRoad Carbon version. Mechanical brakes, but at a <$2k price tag, plenty left over to upgrade. Comes with 105. Sexy looking bike that nearly came home with me from a combo bikeshop/bar a few weeks ago....
I would mention that if I were a better biker, my Mazama (now the REI Co-op 3.1) could easily do what you are looking for if you don't mind bar-ends instead of brifters, at an even much more friendly price tag.
I would mention that if I were a better biker, my Mazama (now the REI Co-op 3.1) could easily do what you are looking for if you don't mind bar-ends instead of brifters, at an even much more friendly price tag.
#32
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Why do you like the Roubaix Comp over the Roubaix Elite? The components mix in a little Ultegra but beyond that, I can't tell the difference.
Also, the Giant link you pasted is a link to the Roubaix - I'll take that as a subconcious double endorsement of the Roubaix
Also, the Giant link you pasted is a link to the Roubaix - I'll take that as a subconcious double endorsement of the Roubaix
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/defy-advanced-1
The $400 difference between the Comp and Elite is the difference between the 8000 Ultegra and 105's, though you get a Praxis crankset instead of theR8000. The wheels are a bit better on the Comp.
But as I said, both of these are still considerably more pricey than the Giant. You're kind of paying a premium for the Specialized name. The Spec also has thru-axle vs QR for the Giant. But this should not be a deal-breaker, IMO.
#33
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If you want a nice bike, by all means treat yourself to a nice bike. The only reason I mentioned it is because I took my wife bike shopping last Fall with a similar set of requirements, and all of the sales people tried to steer us towards bikes in your price range, which I thought was a little ridiculous for a bike that she'll ride a few dozen times a year. I wasn't trying to impose my values on you, so hopefully you didn't take it that way.
#34
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Haha - I fully understand that spending $3000 on a bike isn't necessary. Honestly, the $20 cadence sensor I recently got has me going a lot faster then I suspect a new bike will.
A new toy will get me pumped - I'll ride more, further, commute the full 30 mile round trip to work on nice days rather than the 15 I currently do.
Also, the cantilever brakes with inline levers on my Crossrip can barely stop me. I don't need 105 components but it's difficult to stop from the hoods on my current bike hence the desire for hydraulics. From what I've seen so far, hydraulics seems to come with around 105 comps and higher.
A new toy will get me pumped - I'll ride more, further, commute the full 30 mile round trip to work on nice days rather than the 15 I currently do.
Also, the cantilever brakes with inline levers on my Crossrip can barely stop me. I don't need 105 components but it's difficult to stop from the hoods on my current bike hence the desire for hydraulics. From what I've seen so far, hydraulics seems to come with around 105 comps and higher.
#35
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I'm in the market for a new bike but I'm not even sure what type I should be looking at. On the weekend, I ride around 25 miles in an outing on a combination of the road / smooth asphalt greenway / choppy asphalt greenway (tree roots busting it up) / hard packed dirt and tiny stones that can get muddy and choppy. I rarely ride on real gravel. I don't think a crazy road bike with carbon rims would like the kind of riding I do but maybe there is something in between?
I just saw that you have a 3Klimit so that would leave this one out too. Unless you are just talking the frame.
Last edited by BBassett; 03-13-18 at 06:08 PM.
#37
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Then I select for you the Niner RLT 9 RDO Carbon Gravel Bike.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wIzs3JuLWbY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wIzs3JuLWbY
#38
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Oh so true. Here's the Catch-22 with that philosophy... When you splurge on something that you don't really need, but would be oh so nice, sayyyyyy, like a Rohloff Speed-Hub. After riding with your new un-needed little toy for a little while you will start to wonder how you ever managed without it. Now you Do need it. Or a dynamo hub. Or... Beware flexing your champaign tastes. That's how you end up with a bike that cost more than your 1st car, or your last hooker.
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#41
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Get an endurance roadie with 30c road tires. Best of all worlds. Plenty to choose from.
#42
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Haha - I fully understand that spending $3000 on a bike isn't necessary. Honestly, the $20 cadence sensor I recently got has me going a lot faster then I suspect a new bike will.
A new toy will get me pumped - I'll ride more, further, commute the full 30 mile round trip to work on nice days rather than the 15 I currently do.
Also, the cantilever brakes with inline levers on my Crossrip can barely stop me. I don't need 105 components but it's difficult to stop from the hoods on my current bike hence the desire for hydraulics. From what I've seen so far, hydraulics seems to come with around 105 comps and higher.
A new toy will get me pumped - I'll ride more, further, commute the full 30 mile round trip to work on nice days rather than the 15 I currently do.
Also, the cantilever brakes with inline levers on my Crossrip can barely stop me. I don't need 105 components but it's difficult to stop from the hoods on my current bike hence the desire for hydraulics. From what I've seen so far, hydraulics seems to come with around 105 comps and higher.
#43
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Sounds like a hybrid would be your best bet as a first bike. Will be more like a bike3 you possibly grew up with and will not break your budget. I regularly start the season on my old Trek 750 hybrid. Smooths the bumps and durable enough to take off road.
#45
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