MikeOK

Hi, I moved my Ultegra di2 from one frame to another and I need a little assistance please. I need to move my front der a little inboard but my trim adjustment is pegged out inboard. I’ve searched the net hi and low but can’t find an answer. How do I reset it so it’s centered again and I have my 13 steps each way from where it is now?

sch

IIRC you go into trim mode and bump it back in the direction opposite to where it is for ~13 steps, then get out of
trim mode and read the appropriate tech doc on setting your FD.
Assuming no oddities of CW versus downtube distance variances between the bikes, recenter the FD in trim mode and
take a look at this: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...cle-section-6S
Shimano techdocs. eg: p135 etseq at https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-R8050-02-ENG.pdf
if XT: https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-M8050-05-ENG.pdf
Or any shimano tech doc by search here: https://si.shimano.com/#/
Sounds like you need to start from the beginning with the FD install on the bike making sure the cage is at the right height and angle
and the limit screws are properly set.

MikeOK

sch - thanks! The only thing I know for sure is the H and L are set right. I downloaded the e-tube software to my PC and connected it to my bike, I have to tinker with it more but so far I’m impressed. I still haven’t found a way to re-center my trim. I’ve read through your links and still didn’t find an answer.

rm -rf

EDIT -- sorry, I didn't notice you are working on your front derailleur. The comments below were for a rear Di2 derailleur.

My first idea: Is there a spacer on your crankset axle? That would have moved the chainrings outward a little, limiting the adjustment range?

Instead:

(The Di2 "dealer" manuals are very good, and easy to follow for amateur mechanics. Download and save the pdf.)

Both the 6870 and 8050 manuals show the same front derailleur setup, turning a screw to adjust the cage position:

EDIT--sorry, this is one of the limit screw adjustments. Not a cage adjustment by itself.



then do the software micro adjustments if needed.
~~~

(for rear 6870 Di2)

My experiment didn't show any way to recenter the adjustment clicks.

In this Di2 adjustment thread, the original poster finally fixed it, by milling down the dropout to move the shifter a couple of mm inboard! See this post.
His symptoms were slow and noisy shifts to larger cogs, even with the adjustment range all the way to the inward side.

It appears that frames+dropouts can be made that won't adjust adequately with Di2!

MikeOK

I found that thread doing a google search, but his was the rear mine is the front. There has to be a way to do it I just haven’t been successful finding it. I may end up having to put a spacer on my bottom bracket to move the chain rings outboard a bit. Mine only rubs in the big ring/big cog and I don’t really need that combo but it worked perfectly before and I want it the same now.

MikeOK

Okay rm am I reading it right that Step 2 shows how to adjust the cage inboard/outboard? It’s a little hard to see in the pic but I can’t find an adjuster bolt for that. One more (possibly) related thing, I noticed my outer cage is not parallel to the chain ring. I have looked through the literature and can’t find any adjuster for that on my Ultegra.

TimothyH

This is 6870?

Trim is the very last step in setting up the front derailleur. Everything else has to be correct before trim is set. If you can't get it to the correct trim setting then something else is wrong - initial mounting of the derailleur is not correct or high/low screws not correct.

We need to make sure the derailleur is installed correctly before any adjustments are made.

Start by centering the derailleur. There are 25 trim positions. Put it in adjustment mode and move the derailleur all the way to one side. Just hit one paddle on the front shifter until it is all the way. Once the derailleur is all the way to one side then move it 13 steps in the opposite direction by using the other paddle on the front shifter. Now the derailleur is in the center trim position and you can begin.

Make sure the derailleur is installed correctly by using the procedures on page 26 to 29 of the 6870 dealer manual at https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-UL0001-03-ENG.pdf. Make sure the derailleur is positioned correctly relative to the large front ring, that the backup plate is used if needed and that the support bolt engages the backup plate or clamp properly.

Then set low/high (also called low/top). Low and top screws are shown in the dealer manual linked above. See pages 69 to 73.

1. Put the front on the small ring and the rear on the largest sprocket.
2. Adjust the low adjustment bolt so that there is 0.5 mm between the chain and inner plate of the derailleur.
3. Put the front on the large ring and the rear on the smallest sprocket.
4. Adjust the top adjustment bolt so that there is 0.5 mm between the chain and outer plate of the derailleur.

Only now can trim be set.

1. Crosschain big/big
2. Press the button on the junction to enter adjustment mode. It should be solid red.
3. Adjust trim so that there is 0.5 mm between the chain and inner derailleur plate. The chain should not rub the inner plate when crosschained big/big.
4. Take it out of adjustment mode.

Done. It should work properly now. Let us know.





-Tim-

TimothyH

The cage has to be parallel to the front derailleur. Are you using the support plate? If you are not using a clamp on derailleur or clamp adapter then you need to use the support plate on the frame. It will never trim correctly unless the derailleur is parallel to the ring.

The support bolt which engages the support plate is shown on page 27 of the dealer manual at https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-UL0001-03-ENG.pdf. It is set deep into the derailleur and you will need the long end of a 2mm hex wrench to get to it. You may need to shine a light into the derailleur to find it the first time.

Follow the steps in the dealer manual exactly and it will come out perfect.


-Tim-

MikeOK

Okay thanks for the help guys, I’ll get back to it tomorrow. When I say the derailleur is not parallel, I mean the top is really close to the big ring when looking at it from the side, then at the bottom it’s about 1/4” above it. We might be talking about different things, I adjusted it so when looking down on it from above it is parallel. I’ll post as I go along for future reference as I couldn’t find anything searching here. Everything works as is except for a very slight rubbing on the inner part of the der when in big ring/big cog.

rm -rf

Yeah, you need to get the cage parallel to the chainring first. EDIT-- it was already.


Then the cage bolt is here:

...oops, I had the wrong bolt in the photo.... was showing the L screw...

MikeOK

I thought that was the L screw?

rm -rf

Sounds good. My cage is the width of a penny above the big ring teeth, then at least 1/4 inch at the bottom rear of the cage. Like your description.


Sorry about my confusion in my comments about the front derailleur adjustment bolts. "Never mind"

Follow the TimothyH post, step by step.

MikeOK

Okay guys thanks to your help and the manuals you linked me I got it straightened out.
What I did:
1 placed it in big ring/big cog, then went to trim mode and went outboard 12 steps on the front der to get it back to center.
2 cancelled trim mode.
3 went to big ring/little cog and adjusted the high.
4 cancelled trim mode.
5 went to little ring/big cog.
6 adjusted the low.
7 went to big ring/big cog.
8 back to trim mode, then adjusted inboard a couple steps, this was my original problem it was pegged out inboard and I needed a couple more steps.

Also my bike was spec’ed with the SM-BTR2 battery and the seller confirmed this awhile back and that battery will not let you do synchro shifting. When I connected with e-tube I got the pleasant surprise of actually having the newer BT-DN110, which will allow synchro. So today I put it into full-synchro and went for a ride. Man it is sweet! I rode 26 miles and never touched the left shifter, not one time.The only thing negative about it was when you downshift, and reach the point where it downshifts the front, the front downshifts just a little before the rear upshifts. This causes quite a jolt for a couple cranks before the rear does it’s thing. And you are normally cranking hard when you’re downshifting so that makes it worse.

One more thing I thought I’d add is when researching this I found that you don’t have to have e-tube to put it in synchro. You can do it by pressing the button on the bottom of the A box. Press twice and the lights come on steady, this means you’re not in synchro mode. Quickly double press again and the lights blink twice telling you you’re now in full synchro mode. Press twice again and the lights blink 3 times, now you’re in semi synchro. I tested it and it works.