New Member Intro in NC
#1
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New Member Intro in NC
Hey Guys and Gals,
I am 58 yrs old and I have what I think is a 1991 Specialized Rockhopper XC red and white, with a Fox air Shox that I love. And I am going to pick up a CL bike for $40., a 1986 Schwinn Voyager British Pine color all original I think with a Nasbar rear rack, Cateye computer, tire pump, tools, needs tires, tubes, new seat and a good cleaning!
In the last 18 months I have dramatically improved my health. I was overweight, high blood pressure, high cholesterol, and T2 Diabetic that was having trouble walking. I bought an old Specialized Rockhopper, put some flat resistant street tires on it and cleaned, lubed and tuned it up a bit. And since then, I have ridden that bike well over 2,ooo miles, mostly before sunrise on a hilly country road before going to work at 5:30 am. I have gone from 189 lbs down to 154 lbs, no high blood pressure or cholesterol, and my diabetes is Way Better, I am a totally different person.
I am sure I will have many questions!
I tried to post a photo with no luck... Will retry later!
Tony p
Monroe, NC
I am 58 yrs old and I have what I think is a 1991 Specialized Rockhopper XC red and white, with a Fox air Shox that I love. And I am going to pick up a CL bike for $40., a 1986 Schwinn Voyager British Pine color all original I think with a Nasbar rear rack, Cateye computer, tire pump, tools, needs tires, tubes, new seat and a good cleaning!
In the last 18 months I have dramatically improved my health. I was overweight, high blood pressure, high cholesterol, and T2 Diabetic that was having trouble walking. I bought an old Specialized Rockhopper, put some flat resistant street tires on it and cleaned, lubed and tuned it up a bit. And since then, I have ridden that bike well over 2,ooo miles, mostly before sunrise on a hilly country road before going to work at 5:30 am. I have gone from 189 lbs down to 154 lbs, no high blood pressure or cholesterol, and my diabetes is Way Better, I am a totally different person.
I am sure I will have many questions!
I tried to post a photo with no luck... Will retry later!
Tony p
Monroe, NC
#3
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Welcome. Congrats on good solutions.
Fifty + forum has a sub-forum for health issues and maintenance.
2k miles RockHoppered = 3K miles on a skinny tired roadie (or more).
Fifty + forum has a sub-forum for health issues and maintenance.
2k miles RockHoppered = 3K miles on a skinny tired roadie (or more).
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Vintage, modern, e-road. It is a big cycling universe.
Vintage, modern, e-road. It is a big cycling universe.
#4
Way to get it done, Tony. Taking one's health a bit more seriously changes one's life for the better as you have discovered. It has done the same for me. Here's to many more miles and smiles.
#8
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Great to have you here! All you needed to do was find something physical you liked to do.
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
#10
Senior Member
Is this it? I would love to get my hands on it with some wet sandpaper, Blue Magic alu polish and rubbing compound/wax. That bike would polish up and restore nicely, I could get it looking almost new. I like bikes like that. Quality ones you can buy cheap with no rust or peeling paint. Just needs some elbow grease.
https://columbia.craigslist.org/bik/...705338841.html
https://columbia.craigslist.org/bik/...705338841.html
#11
#12
mycocyclist
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Monkey Junction, Wilmington, NC
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Welcome. The NC contingent continues to expand, though in your specific case, apparently you are shrinking? Good off you!
You can upload photos as attachments of appropriate size directly from your PC or Mac, not from a mobile device, with fewer than 10 posts.
That's an awfully nice Voyager at a very reasonable price point; ride it like you stole it if it's your size!
You can upload photos as attachments of appropriate size directly from your PC or Mac, not from a mobile device, with fewer than 10 posts.
That's an awfully nice Voyager at a very reasonable price point; ride it like you stole it if it's your size!
#14
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I am not a fan of not letting a new member post a pic or two...
I actually bought it for $35. It has a Nasbar rear rack in great condition, Look pedals, and the BioPace crank has been replaced with a Sakae XCE. I think everything else is Original. The tires are so dry rotted, I cannot read anything on the sidewalls, they have Presta Valves, but I am sure they are 27x1.25 Schwinn. Kinda wish I could install a slightly wider tire, but I don't think that is possible. I have a lot of questions and plans for the bike. First glance it needs shift cables, tires, tubes, bar tap, seat, cleaning, tuning, polishing...
I welcome any cleaning and refurbishing tips. As well as best place to purchase cables, housings, tires, tubes, rim strips, etc. I assume there are some better sources than ebay.
I think I am going to try to not repaint, add tan cork bar tape, gumwall tires, light colored leather saddle, and hopefully find touchup paint after I replace above parts.
Tony p
Monroe, NC
I actually bought it for $35. It has a Nasbar rear rack in great condition, Look pedals, and the BioPace crank has been replaced with a Sakae XCE. I think everything else is Original. The tires are so dry rotted, I cannot read anything on the sidewalls, they have Presta Valves, but I am sure they are 27x1.25 Schwinn. Kinda wish I could install a slightly wider tire, but I don't think that is possible. I have a lot of questions and plans for the bike. First glance it needs shift cables, tires, tubes, bar tap, seat, cleaning, tuning, polishing...
I welcome any cleaning and refurbishing tips. As well as best place to purchase cables, housings, tires, tubes, rim strips, etc. I assume there are some better sources than ebay.
I think I am going to try to not repaint, add tan cork bar tape, gumwall tires, light colored leather saddle, and hopefully find touchup paint after I replace above parts.
Tony p
Monroe, NC
Last edited by Tonyp884; 09-29-18 at 05:24 PM. Reason: typo
#15
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You guys might think I am trying to get my TEN Posts on the books!
Please share any and all tips! I plan to post many pics along the way. I spent many years as a professional NASCAR and dirt bike racing photographer, so, I always take pics!
Tony p
Monroe, NC
Please share any and all tips! I plan to post many pics along the way. I spent many years as a professional NASCAR and dirt bike racing photographer, so, I always take pics!
Tony p
Monroe, NC
#17
52psi
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Welcome to the forums, [MENTION=490724]Tonyp884[/MENTION], and congratulations on all the good stuff so far.
After 2k miles on your Rockhopper, yeah, you're gonna dig that road bike.
After 2k miles on your Rockhopper, yeah, you're gonna dig that road bike.
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A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
#18
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Finally looked the bike over this morning.
SunTour Hubs
Araya 27x1 1/4 w/o rims with Presta Valves
Sakae Crank replaced the Original BioPace
The Schwinn brochure from 1986 says my bike is an 18 speed, this one is a 21 speed!
SunTour XCE Expert Auto Shift Plus rear derailleur
SunTour XCE Front Derailleur
Look Pedals
SunTour AccuShift Plus / Bar Con Power Shifters mounted to the bar ends instead of the downtube mounted shifters mentioned in the1986 Schwinn Brochure pdf
Serial number is F8011986 or F8011936
Lots of rusty scratches along top tube from a formerly frame mounted tire pump
Lots of little rusty scratches on the frame including a one thru the middle of the left hand side Voyager decal on the top frame tube.
It seems that my bike has a lot of components that are Different from the specs in the 1986 Schwinn Brochure and an All Year Voyager Comparison Chart I have found online!
At this point, I'd rather try to clean up the rust on all of the metal parts and painted frame tubes, and try to find British Pine touch up paint.
Maybe I can use some light compound on the paint and then a good coat of wax. This is going to be ridden a LOT, and I'm not wanting to repaint.
I need to research the best way to put a shine on these aluminum wheels and other parts.
Question? Could I / Should I disassemble and re-grease the steering stem and the hubs?
I am Really Happy with my $35 1986 Schwinn Voyager!
I plan to ride in at The American Diabetes Association Tour deCure for Diabetes in Charlotte on October 27th. I plan to ride the 45 mile event, or at least the 25 miler on this Voyager. Should be a step up from riding my olde Specialized FSR XC, which I dearly Love by the way
So, I guess I need to get to work!
Thanks everyone for all of the encouragement!
Any and All re-furbishment Tips will be Greatly Appreciated!
Tony p
Monroe, NC
SunTour Hubs
Araya 27x1 1/4 w/o rims with Presta Valves
Sakae Crank replaced the Original BioPace
The Schwinn brochure from 1986 says my bike is an 18 speed, this one is a 21 speed!
SunTour XCE Expert Auto Shift Plus rear derailleur
SunTour XCE Front Derailleur
Look Pedals
SunTour AccuShift Plus / Bar Con Power Shifters mounted to the bar ends instead of the downtube mounted shifters mentioned in the1986 Schwinn Brochure pdf
Serial number is F8011986 or F8011936
Lots of rusty scratches along top tube from a formerly frame mounted tire pump
Lots of little rusty scratches on the frame including a one thru the middle of the left hand side Voyager decal on the top frame tube.
It seems that my bike has a lot of components that are Different from the specs in the 1986 Schwinn Brochure and an All Year Voyager Comparison Chart I have found online!
At this point, I'd rather try to clean up the rust on all of the metal parts and painted frame tubes, and try to find British Pine touch up paint.
Maybe I can use some light compound on the paint and then a good coat of wax. This is going to be ridden a LOT, and I'm not wanting to repaint.
I need to research the best way to put a shine on these aluminum wheels and other parts.
Question? Could I / Should I disassemble and re-grease the steering stem and the hubs?
I am Really Happy with my $35 1986 Schwinn Voyager!
I plan to ride in at The American Diabetes Association Tour deCure for Diabetes in Charlotte on October 27th. I plan to ride the 45 mile event, or at least the 25 miler on this Voyager. Should be a step up from riding my olde Specialized FSR XC, which I dearly Love by the way
So, I guess I need to get to work!
Thanks everyone for all of the encouragement!
Any and All re-furbishment Tips will be Greatly Appreciated!
Tony p
Monroe, NC
Last edited by Tonyp884; 09-30-18 at 07:18 PM.
#19
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Lazyass,
You mentioned sandpaper... Could you offer up some details? The bike has a good bit of rust on metal brackets, brake linkage, nuts, etc..
I am trying to learn the best way to clean and polish the wheels, hubs, spokes, crank, stem, etc.
thanks,
Tony p
You mentioned sandpaper... Could you offer up some details? The bike has a good bit of rust on metal brackets, brake linkage, nuts, etc..
I am trying to learn the best way to clean and polish the wheels, hubs, spokes, crank, stem, etc.
thanks,
Tony p
#21
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Welcome Tony. You can learn a lot HERE
INTRODUCTION & WELCOME
You can remove parts and soak in a solution of Oxalic acid to remove rust or try some 0000 steel wool with some light oil or WD40.
Now that you have 2 bikes, watch this Winter for an attractively priced Centurion, Raleigh, Lotus etc. making a Hat Trick for the year Don
INTRODUCTION & WELCOME
You can remove parts and soak in a solution of Oxalic acid to remove rust or try some 0000 steel wool with some light oil or WD40.
Now that you have 2 bikes, watch this Winter for an attractively priced Centurion, Raleigh, Lotus etc. making a Hat Trick for the year Don
#22
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Thanks ollo ollo,
That website is exactly what I was looking for!
Yes, I am already primed for my next vintage bike find!
I feel like I stole this Voyager for $35.
Thanks Again!
Tony p
That website is exactly what I was looking for!
Yes, I am already primed for my next vintage bike find!
I feel like I stole this Voyager for $35.
Thanks Again!
Tony p
#23
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Amsterdam
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Finally looked the bike over this morning.
SunTour Hubs
Araya 27x1 1/4 w/o rims with Presta Valves
Sakae Crank replaced the Original BioPace
The Schwinn brochure from 1986 says my bike is an 18 speed, this one is a 21 speed!
SunTour XCE Expert Auto Shift Plus rear derailleur
SunTour XCE Front Derailleur
Look Pedals
SunTour AccuShift Plus / Bar Con Power Shifters mounted to the bar ends instead of the downtube mounted shifters mentioned in the1986 Schwinn Brochure pdf
Serial number is F8011986 or F8011936
Lots of rusty scratches along top tube from a formerly frame mounted tire pump
Lots of little rusty scratches on the frame including a one thru the middle of the left hand side Voyager decal on the top frame tube.
It seems that my bike has a lot of components that are Different from the specs in the 1986 Schwinn Brochure and an All Year Voyager Comparison Chart I have found online!
At this point, I'd rather try to clean up the rust on all of the metal parts and painted frame tubes, and try to find British Pine touch up paint.
Maybe I can use some light compound on the paint and then a good coat of wax. This is going to be ridden a LOT, and I'm not wanting to repaint.
I need to research the best way to put a shine on these aluminum wheels and other parts.
Question? Could I / Should I disassemble and re-grease the steering stem and the hubs?
I am Really Happy with my $35 1986 Schwinn Voyager!
I plan to ride in at The American Diabetes Association Tour deCure for Diabetes in Charlotte on October 27th. I plan to ride the 45 mile event, or at least the 25 miler on this Voyager. Should be a step up from riding my olde Specialized FSR XC, which I dearly Love by the way
So, I guess I need to get to work!
Thanks everyone for all of the encouragement!
Any and All re-furbishment Tips will be Greatly Appreciated!
Tony p
Monroe, NC
SunTour Hubs
Araya 27x1 1/4 w/o rims with Presta Valves
Sakae Crank replaced the Original BioPace
The Schwinn brochure from 1986 says my bike is an 18 speed, this one is a 21 speed!
SunTour XCE Expert Auto Shift Plus rear derailleur
SunTour XCE Front Derailleur
Look Pedals
SunTour AccuShift Plus / Bar Con Power Shifters mounted to the bar ends instead of the downtube mounted shifters mentioned in the1986 Schwinn Brochure pdf
Serial number is F8011986 or F8011936
Lots of rusty scratches along top tube from a formerly frame mounted tire pump
Lots of little rusty scratches on the frame including a one thru the middle of the left hand side Voyager decal on the top frame tube.
It seems that my bike has a lot of components that are Different from the specs in the 1986 Schwinn Brochure and an All Year Voyager Comparison Chart I have found online!
At this point, I'd rather try to clean up the rust on all of the metal parts and painted frame tubes, and try to find British Pine touch up paint.
Maybe I can use some light compound on the paint and then a good coat of wax. This is going to be ridden a LOT, and I'm not wanting to repaint.
I need to research the best way to put a shine on these aluminum wheels and other parts.
Question? Could I / Should I disassemble and re-grease the steering stem and the hubs?
I am Really Happy with my $35 1986 Schwinn Voyager!
I plan to ride in at The American Diabetes Association Tour deCure for Diabetes in Charlotte on October 27th. I plan to ride the 45 mile event, or at least the 25 miler on this Voyager. Should be a step up from riding my olde Specialized FSR XC, which I dearly Love by the way
So, I guess I need to get to work!
Thanks everyone for all of the encouragement!
Any and All re-furbishment Tips will be Greatly Appreciated!
Tony p
Monroe, NC
Easy cleaning of components: Disassemble and degrease/clean everything to get the grime off. Don't want to clean hard with any dirt present. Use. wet aluminum foil on all chrome. Fast and easy. After it's cleaned up, rinse, dry well, and wax. Get aluminum polish for the aluminum parts. Most of these are probably clear anodized. If they are mottled and don't easily shine up, then you'll need to polish off the anodizing to get it to really shine. Then you'll be faced with trouble keeping them shiny, so I don't recommend this. Clean, polish, buff to a light shine.. Rusty unchromed metal, or badly pitted/rusted chrome, use oxalic acid. Barkeepers Friend is a ready source. Soak overnight, rinse thoroughly, dry, buff, and wax if appropriate, or a light coating of grease if it's a nut or a washer.
Clean the frame, wse paper towels soaked in oxalic acid on small rust spots, rinse, and dry. Check inside the frame for worrisome rust, maybe use Framesaver if you're worried. With the frame clean, use something like Scratch-X to make the paint look as good as it can, then wax. If you can find a great match for the paint, do your touch up painting before you wax.
Don't try to save the chain. Get new tires and tubes. If you don't think you can do a complete disassembly/reassembly in time for your ride, I would just do a cleaning without removing too many pieces, get new chain/tires/cables/saddle, and deal with anything that is a problem (wheel hub doesn't spin smoothly, wheel out of true, hardened brake blocks). If this is going to be your main ride, then remember that "the best" is the enemy of "good enough." It's easy to do the leisurely complete and compulsive rehab when you have another bike to ride.
Edit to add - what I mean is, maybe save the full tear down for the depths of winter, when you might be choosing to ride your Rockhopper most of the time anyway. A full teardown/rehab always takes me much longer than I anticipate.
#24
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Welcome @Tonyp884 I had an 86 Schwinn Passage, a step down from the Voyager, and really loved the ride. $35 is a steal for that bike!
The forum is of course a great place for info (+1 on [MENTION=337442]Kevindale[/MENTION] advice above), you can also check out
Mytenspeeds by forum member Randy Jawa - mentioned above by [MENTION=8403]ollo_ollo[/MENTION]
Sheldon Brown Patron saint of vintage bike restorers
RJ the bike guy great videos on vintage bike maintenance
For analog references I use Zinn and the art of road bike maintenance a lot but you can also find 70s and 80s vintage bike manuals, like Anybody's bike book or Glenn's Complete Bicycle manual on Amazon for a pittance. Have fun and congrats on the return to health. The Passage below after too much time and $$
The forum is of course a great place for info (+1 on [MENTION=337442]Kevindale[/MENTION] advice above), you can also check out
Mytenspeeds by forum member Randy Jawa - mentioned above by [MENTION=8403]ollo_ollo[/MENTION]
Sheldon Brown Patron saint of vintage bike restorers
RJ the bike guy great videos on vintage bike maintenance
For analog references I use Zinn and the art of road bike maintenance a lot but you can also find 70s and 80s vintage bike manuals, like Anybody's bike book or Glenn's Complete Bicycle manual on Amazon for a pittance. Have fun and congrats on the return to health. The Passage below after too much time and $$
Last edited by ryansu; 10-01-18 at 04:38 PM.
#25
Senior Member
The best thing to do is find something aluminum that isn't good for anything and practice on that first, or do like the bottom couple of inches of your seat post that stays hidden inside the frame.
Last edited by Lazyass; 10-01-18 at 06:29 PM.