Waxing chain vs oiling - not looking back
#1
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Waxing chain vs oiling - not looking back
In the olden days, degreasing a chain and soaking it in paraffin was a common thing to do for winter conditions.
Seems there is a new awareness of using wax products in lieu of traditional oil, and I'm all for it. One of my pet peeves is a dirty, black drivetrain, and I'm finding the speedwax treatment I've done on my chain to provide the smooth operation and cleanliness I relish. For me, anyway, I am happy to have a smooth running chain that is dry to the touch and, more importantly, CLEAN. No greasy accumulations on idler wheels or chainrings. I'm digging it so far.
Anyone else who has made the switch?
Anyone who has gone back to oil after trying it (and not finding it to their liking)?
Discuss.....
Seems there is a new awareness of using wax products in lieu of traditional oil, and I'm all for it. One of my pet peeves is a dirty, black drivetrain, and I'm finding the speedwax treatment I've done on my chain to provide the smooth operation and cleanliness I relish. For me, anyway, I am happy to have a smooth running chain that is dry to the touch and, more importantly, CLEAN. No greasy accumulations on idler wheels or chainrings. I'm digging it so far.
Anyone else who has made the switch?
Anyone who has gone back to oil after trying it (and not finding it to their liking)?
Discuss.....
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#3
Senior Member
The clean / quiet / long-life benefits of waxing the chain has been working well for me also.
This reply shows my heated ultrasonic cleaner. I use three jars in the heated bath, the first w/ soapy water, then mineral spirits, finally denatured alcohol.
This reply shows my modified wax warmer that permits me to apply 93°C Molten Speed Wax to my chains.
This reply shows my heated ultrasonic cleaner. I use three jars in the heated bath, the first w/ soapy water, then mineral spirits, finally denatured alcohol.
This reply shows my modified wax warmer that permits me to apply 93°C Molten Speed Wax to my chains.
#4
Senior Member
I use molten speed wax throughout the dry months, I do love the cleanliness of it, but longevity in wet weather and commuting is subpar. I switch to a wet lube in the fall/winter/spring
#6
Senior Member
I've been using this:
https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Chain-...aver+lubricant
https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Chain-...aver+lubricant
#7
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When I was a teen in Montreal I played with paraffin on my bike (I used to tour a little). But it was awfully messy if I remember right. I have no wet conditions where I live, dry and dusty 99.9% of the time. Guess I should go back to looking at this as an option! Seems like I'm always ruining rags and cleaning my drive train of gunk.
#8
Interocitor Command
I've been a fan of Boeshield T-9 for years. A couple of months ago I swore off all oil based lubes for my drivetrain and bought a 32 Oz. bottle of White Lightening Clean Ride. So far so good.
I'll never go back to oil. NEVER!!!!
I'll never go back to oil. NEVER!!!!
![Twitchy](images/smilies/twitchy.gif)
#9
just another gosling
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Not good in rain. And way too messy and time consuming for this kid. I just try to keep my leg away from my chain. I actually don't care what my chain looks like, just how long it lasts.
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#10
Heft On Wheels
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In the olden days, degreasing a chain and soaking it in paraffin was a common thing to do for winter conditions.
Seems there is a new awareness of using wax products in lieu of traditional oil, and I'm all for it. One of my pet peeves is a dirty, black drivetrain, and I'm finding the speedwax treatment I've done on my chain to provide the smooth operation and cleanliness I relish. For me, anyway, I am happy to have a smooth running chain that is dry to the touch and, more importantly, CLEAN. No greasy accumulations on idler wheels or chainrings. I'm digging it so far.
Anyone else who has made the switch?
Anyone who has gone back to oil after trying it (and not finding it to their liking)?
Discuss.....
Seems there is a new awareness of using wax products in lieu of traditional oil, and I'm all for it. One of my pet peeves is a dirty, black drivetrain, and I'm finding the speedwax treatment I've done on my chain to provide the smooth operation and cleanliness I relish. For me, anyway, I am happy to have a smooth running chain that is dry to the touch and, more importantly, CLEAN. No greasy accumulations on idler wheels or chainrings. I'm digging it so far.
Anyone else who has made the switch?
Anyone who has gone back to oil after trying it (and not finding it to their liking)?
Discuss.....
i converted to mspeedwax and no no changing back. Stuff is awesome, smooth, quite and clean. Love it. Once changed over it’s easy to keep the set up going. 300-350 miles is easy in the dry.
#11
Occam's Rotor
Took my kid's bike to the shop. The wax chain came back with some sort of oil. Grrr.
#13
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Agree that on a commuter that sees rain it's probably not going to work out, but otherwise MSW I find is not a big deal to use and the results are very good.
scott s.
.
scott s.
.
#15
☢
Not sure why anyone would choose otherwise unless they just like being nostalgic?
#16
Non omnino gravis
#17
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I built up a commuter some years ago with a Gates belt drive and Alfine 8 speed hub. Totally maintenance free driveline.
I'm curious about the wet weather performance of wax (I'm mainly a fairweather cyclist, so not really an issue) - I would think the wax would repel water. What have folks found? Sounds like it doesn't hold up as well.
I'm curious about the wet weather performance of wax (I'm mainly a fairweather cyclist, so not really an issue) - I would think the wax would repel water. What have folks found? Sounds like it doesn't hold up as well.
#18
Senior Member
I use the worst of all worlds. I have an old crock pot with wax, an oil-based substance (slick 50?) that's about 15% of the volume, some teflon, some graphite and some molybdenum sulfide. Every 4-800 miles, I plug the crock pot in, turn it on high and drop the chain or chains in while I go about other activities. If I remember, I may swirl the thing. Eventually I unplug the crock pot, wait fifteen minutes or so for the wax to cool and take the chains out.
They're a bit black, not as pretty as when one just uses wax. However, it lasts longer between cookings and still doesn't put chain ring marks on legs that rub up against them.
Sure, it takes some time from start to finish, 30-45 minutes, but I'm only involved with a few moments of that time so it doesn't take much of MY time.
They're a bit black, not as pretty as when one just uses wax. However, it lasts longer between cookings and still doesn't put chain ring marks on legs that rub up against them.
Sure, it takes some time from start to finish, 30-45 minutes, but I'm only involved with a few moments of that time so it doesn't take much of MY time.
#19
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I switched to dry lube last year and I'm not ever getting grease or oil again.
You do have to relube the system more often with dry lube, but it's MUCH easier. To the point where doing it more often is a non issue.
I just wipe down the components to get what little grime there is off (and its WAY less grime than grease or oils collect) and reapply the dry lube. 2 hours later it's ready to ride.
It's not messy. It doesn't leave marks on your legs that take 3 hours to remove. It doesn't pick up grit and grime. I love it.
Now this is with the bottled stuff. I don't bake my chain in the crock pot full or wax. That's a more involved procedure. For the amount and type of riding I do, the bottled stuff that wipes on/wipes off is fine.
You do have to relube the system more often with dry lube, but it's MUCH easier. To the point where doing it more often is a non issue.
I just wipe down the components to get what little grime there is off (and its WAY less grime than grease or oils collect) and reapply the dry lube. 2 hours later it's ready to ride.
It's not messy. It doesn't leave marks on your legs that take 3 hours to remove. It doesn't pick up grit and grime. I love it.
Now this is with the bottled stuff. I don't bake my chain in the crock pot full or wax. That's a more involved procedure. For the amount and type of riding I do, the bottled stuff that wipes on/wipes off is fine.
#20
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For those using dry lube, how often are you using it? I guess it depends on the conditions. I don't ride in the rain (yet), but the roads are occasionally wet/damp, so it's not always completely dry on my rides.
#21
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But I don't seek out those conditions so it doesn't happen much.
If I'm riding on a wet road, and by wet I mean residual surface water not 2 inch deep puddles, it usually doesn't get soaked enough that it's a problem.
#22
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If I get caught in a downpour, I probably need to relube with dry lube.
But I don't seek out those conditions so it doesn't happen much.
If I'm riding on a wet road, and by wet I mean residual surface water not 2 inch deep puddles, it usually doesn't get soaked enough that it's a problem.
But I don't seek out those conditions so it doesn't happen much.
If I'm riding on a wet road, and by wet I mean residual surface water not 2 inch deep puddles, it usually doesn't get soaked enough that it's a problem.
#23
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The clean / quiet / long-life benefits of waxing the chain has been working well for me also.
This reply shows my heated ultrasonic cleaner. I use three jars in the heated bath, the first w/ soapy water, then mineral spirits, finally denatured alcohol.
This reply shows my modified wax warmer that permits me to apply 93°C Molten Speed Wax to my chains.
This reply shows my heated ultrasonic cleaner. I use three jars in the heated bath, the first w/ soapy water, then mineral spirits, finally denatured alcohol.
This reply shows my modified wax warmer that permits me to apply 93°C Molten Speed Wax to my chains.
#24
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Either it's falling from the sky or splashing onto it.
The residual surface water is being picked up by the tires and thrown in the direction of the tire rotation, not sideways to where the drive train is. Sure, some will get on the drive chain, but not the vast majority of it.
The front tire will splatter some back at the drive chain, especially when turning slightly left, thus aiming the front wheel at the crank. But again...most of it is going somewhere else.
And how much surface water are you really picking up? If you could manage to collect every drop of it on a long ride I doubt you'd fill a beer can. And then only a fraction of that is being flung into your drive chain.
(Keep in mind we're talking about residual surface moisture after a rain. Not puddles with any kind of depth.)
#25
Senior Member
The short answer is I don’t know.
My observations are that when I immerse the room temperature chain into the 93C wax, the bath temperature immediately drops. I swirl to mix the wax elements and to help cavity penetration.
With my setup, the temperature returns to 93C in about 15 minutes. During that time I do periodic swirls.
The chain is then yanked, hung and permitted to cool.
Once cooled, I manually flex each of the links, to change it from a rigid sword back to a chain.