Fuji Roubaix 1.5 used or Giant TCR SL2 105
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Fuji Roubaix 1.5 used or Giant TCR SL2 105
Hi all, just in a bit of dilemma atm. Currenty I’m riding a Tern Verge P9 folding bike with 9 spd Sora Groupset and I think I’m hitting the wall; so far I’ve not been able to break 28kph av speed, be it over 30km, 50km. In fact I begin to get tired after 40km and drop to 26kph average once I ride over 50km distance.
The issue is my usual group of friends are now riding Giant TCR SL2 105 and a Trek Emonda and they seem to have it easy to drop me or go the distance. They are posting 28-30kph averages and telling me I will surpass them once I’m on a road bike.
Due to budget concerns I’m looking at a very lightly used 2017 Fuji Roubaix 1.5 with Tiagra Groupset for $1000 (he may let go for $800 Singapore dollars I hope). I plan to change that to either Ultegra 6800 or the 105 R7000 Groupset. Or should I leave the Tiagra 10 spd and spend on changing to a lighter rolling wheel set That will bring it up to total cost of $1200. Which in your experience brings more benefit, Tiagra to 105 or original wheelset to say Mavic Cosmic?
my question is also is buying the Fuji and upgrading worth it or should I hold out for a brand new Giant TCR SL2 which I think I can get for $1600-1800?
The issue is my usual group of friends are now riding Giant TCR SL2 105 and a Trek Emonda and they seem to have it easy to drop me or go the distance. They are posting 28-30kph averages and telling me I will surpass them once I’m on a road bike.
Due to budget concerns I’m looking at a very lightly used 2017 Fuji Roubaix 1.5 with Tiagra Groupset for $1000 (he may let go for $800 Singapore dollars I hope). I plan to change that to either Ultegra 6800 or the 105 R7000 Groupset. Or should I leave the Tiagra 10 spd and spend on changing to a lighter rolling wheel set That will bring it up to total cost of $1200. Which in your experience brings more benefit, Tiagra to 105 or original wheelset to say Mavic Cosmic?
my question is also is buying the Fuji and upgrading worth it or should I hold out for a brand new Giant TCR SL2 which I think I can get for $1600-1800?
#2
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 62
Bikes: Fuji SL 25, Giant TCR Advanced SL
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In my experience, having good wheels is better than having a good groupset. I had Tiagra 4700 and it was like a heavier 10 speed version of 105 5800.
#3
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Milwaukee, WI
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Pretty sure you can buy a brand new Fuji Roubaix 1.5 for under $1,000. Try to get the Fuji for $650 or $700 and throw on some Ultregra wheels for another $300 or so and you have a serviceable ride for $1k.
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Ok thanks, this was exactly the answer borne from experience I was hoping for.
I'll try to get that bike as cheaply as I can while budgeting for a wheelset upgrade in the near future..off to check if it fits and do some bargaining then.
I'll try to get that bike as cheaply as I can while budgeting for a wheelset upgrade in the near future..off to check if it fits and do some bargaining then.
#5
Fuji Roubaix
You can get a new Roubaix for cheaper.
I own a 1.0 and I love it. Some people hate them, because they are Fuji. Let them hate.
Check out Bikeshopewarehouse. They have Roubaix’s on there for good value.
I wouldn’t pay that much for a used one. Mine is full Ultegra 6800 and I paid $1050 for a 2017 model.
link for a 2019 1.5 for $1050 brand new. If you call they will give you a better price too. Other bikes on there as well.
Road Bikes | FUJI 2019 ROUBAIX 1.5 | ROUBAIX 1.5 | FUJI 2019 | BikeShopWarehouse.com | Your road bike racing does not need to cost you an arm & a leg.
I own a 1.0 and I love it. Some people hate them, because they are Fuji. Let them hate.
Check out Bikeshopewarehouse. They have Roubaix’s on there for good value.
I wouldn’t pay that much for a used one. Mine is full Ultegra 6800 and I paid $1050 for a 2017 model.
link for a 2019 1.5 for $1050 brand new. If you call they will give you a better price too. Other bikes on there as well.
Road Bikes | FUJI 2019 ROUBAIX 1.5 | ROUBAIX 1.5 | FUJI 2019 | BikeShopWarehouse.com | Your road bike racing does not need to cost you an arm & a leg.
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks! Basically full bike weight is 8.9kg with pedals. Guy who sold it was cool, threw in the basic bike computer and shimano cleat pedals, didnt want to take it back at all.
Bike spec as follows:
Tiagra 10 spd rd with a Sunrace 11-28 cassette( was a bit disappointed hoping it was a shimano cassette)
Tiagra fd Oval concepts hollow crankset with praxisworks lightweight chainrings 36/52T
Tiagra brakes and brifters.
Everything else as it says on the tin, oval concepts stem, bar, seatpost, saddle.
Wheelset is surprisingly ok-1700g ish for oem stuff.
Where is a good/most efficient/budget conscious way to start dropping weight?
I'd be happy with a drop to 8kg to start with; initially i thought i needed to swap out the wheelset and the tiagra group for 105's now looking at the bike componentry im not so sure thats the correct sequence.
Bike spec as follows:
Tiagra 10 spd rd with a Sunrace 11-28 cassette( was a bit disappointed hoping it was a shimano cassette)
Tiagra fd Oval concepts hollow crankset with praxisworks lightweight chainrings 36/52T
Tiagra brakes and brifters.
Everything else as it says on the tin, oval concepts stem, bar, seatpost, saddle.
Wheelset is surprisingly ok-1700g ish for oem stuff.
Where is a good/most efficient/budget conscious way to start dropping weight?
I'd be happy with a drop to 8kg to start with; initially i thought i needed to swap out the wheelset and the tiagra group for 105's now looking at the bike componentry im not so sure thats the correct sequence.
#9
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: VA
Posts: 1,437
Bikes: SuperSix Evo | Revolt
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Thanks! Basically full bike weight is 8.9kg with pedals. Guy who sold it was cool, threw in the basic bike computer and shimano cleat pedals, didnt want to take it back at all.
Bike spec as follows:
Tiagra 10 spd rd with a Sunrace 11-28 cassette( was a bit disappointed hoping it was a shimano cassette)
Tiagra fd Oval concepts hollow crankset with praxisworks lightweight chainrings 36/52T
Tiagra brakes and brifters.
Everything else as it says on the tin, oval concepts stem, bar, seatpost, saddle.
Wheelset is surprisingly ok-1700g ish for oem stuff.
Where is a good/most efficient/budget conscious way to start dropping weight?
I'd be happy with a drop to 8kg to start with; initially i thought i needed to swap out the wheelset and the tiagra group for 105's now looking at the bike componentry im not so sure thats the correct sequence.
Bike spec as follows:
Tiagra 10 spd rd with a Sunrace 11-28 cassette( was a bit disappointed hoping it was a shimano cassette)
Tiagra fd Oval concepts hollow crankset with praxisworks lightweight chainrings 36/52T
Tiagra brakes and brifters.
Everything else as it says on the tin, oval concepts stem, bar, seatpost, saddle.
Wheelset is surprisingly ok-1700g ish for oem stuff.
Where is a good/most efficient/budget conscious way to start dropping weight?
I'd be happy with a drop to 8kg to start with; initially i thought i needed to swap out the wheelset and the tiagra group for 105's now looking at the bike componentry im not so sure thats the correct sequence.
#10
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I tried..but im confused now
So I've been riding this bike for a few times already and did a bike fitting too. Looking to do a team 100km challenge and I've gone through the electronics thread here and reviews everywhere else, youtube and have come to one conclusion-WHY IS FINDING A NO FRILLS BIKE COMPUTER SO HARD?
I hv a basic one no audio from China which came with the bike but I'm looking for a slightly more advanced one (read budget) which can do this:
I've watched/read Bryton/Cateye/Garmin reviews and none of them csn tell
me Outright whether it has these basic functions im looking for..instead they harp on about ANT+ capability/GPS ability/power meter capability. Anyone has realtimeexperience I can draw upon? I'd be happy with a generic Amazon computer if it had what I wanted.
I hv a basic one no audio from China which came with the bike but I'm looking for a slightly more advanced one (read budget) which can do this:
- Standalone but can upload to phone later so I don't have to run strava realtime for the whole ride
- can program max speed and minimum speed which has audible alert if i drop below/go above set speed
- can program timer alert to switch during riding paceline so i dont have to keep counting 30s all the time
- Don't need gps turn by turn navigation
I've watched/read Bryton/Cateye/Garmin reviews and none of them csn tell
me Outright whether it has these basic functions im looking for..instead they harp on about ANT+ capability/GPS ability/power meter capability. Anyone has realtimeexperience I can draw upon? I'd be happy with a generic Amazon computer if it had what I wanted.
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Update time!
So I got the bike in March, my first road bike. It was a pretty steep learning curve but I made it work. Rode it and realised that I was only 3-4kph off my foldie average speed. Speaks a lot as to the efficiency of the Tern Verge. But as I rode more and more, the speeds kept rising.
True to my word, I did as a lot of you experienced people said and did a bike fit fairly early. And the speeds rose again. So where are we now?
True to my word, I did as a lot of you experienced people said and did a bike fit fairly early. And the speeds rose again. So where are we now?
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
The crashed Campag Zondas
So I was coerced into joining a national sanctioned Gran Fondo/sportive event (that was scheduled in July). So no pressure then.
So I trained, and trained. Learning more about tips and techniques, was not smooth sailing at times. And then a friend of mine who is an experienced racer let be known about how he replaced his crashed Campy Zondas with a new set of...Campy Zondas.
I asked if I could buy the front wheel and was gonna order a rear wheel. He said its just a broken spoke and if you can fix it/find a rear replacement spoke (not easy here!) its yours! So instead of buying a $600 set of older model Zondas with a compromised Campy cassette, I now had a set of working C17 new model Zondas to roll on, and a spare wheelset in case I crashed/flatted during the event.
That was a month before the event. So now I had a decent wheelset for the event. And a month left. Gulp.
So I trained, and trained. Learning more about tips and techniques, was not smooth sailing at times. And then a friend of mine who is an experienced racer let be known about how he replaced his crashed Campy Zondas with a new set of...Campy Zondas.
I asked if I could buy the front wheel and was gonna order a rear wheel. He said its just a broken spoke and if you can fix it/find a rear replacement spoke (not easy here!) its yours! So instead of buying a $600 set of older model Zondas with a compromised Campy cassette, I now had a set of working C17 new model Zondas to roll on, and a spare wheelset in case I crashed/flatted during the event.
That was a month before the event. So now I had a decent wheelset for the event. And a month left. Gulp.
Last edited by spikyone; 10-23-19 at 04:58 AM.
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Yo, new at climbing eh?
"Huff puff, snort" as I rode the notorious climbing route known as "Subok Hills". 23 rolling hills one way. With the last hill being #toomuchgradient . Being overtaken by the veteran rider. With a white beard and visibly aged skin. With a wave and "push on" he disappeared over the hill.
New rider, with a 52/36 crank and a 11/28 cassette is not good for hillclimbing. I swore that day to train more for my climbing ability. As we prepared for the event, so did I start to haemorrhage money.
Bike servicing, new Continental tyres, repair costs of the Zondas, buying gels and electrolytes. Paying for accomodation.
I nearly threw in the towel if not for my ever gradual rising average speed, which became my goal every ride.
New rider, with a 52/36 crank and a 11/28 cassette is not good for hillclimbing. I swore that day to train more for my climbing ability. As we prepared for the event, so did I start to haemorrhage money.
Bike servicing, new Continental tyres, repair costs of the Zondas, buying gels and electrolytes. Paying for accomodation.
I nearly threw in the towel if not for my ever gradual rising average speed, which became my goal every ride.