Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

Help with 1998 Stumjumper M2 Skraxle Sought

Search
Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

Help with 1998 Stumjumper M2 Skraxle Sought

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 10-14-20, 01:36 PM
  #1  
Trinidor
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 96

Bikes: 2006 Specilaized Roubaix Pro, 2010 Ridley XBow, 2002 Surly Crosscheck, 2011 Trek Top Fuel 9.9 SSL

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Help with 1998 Specialized Stumpjumper M2 Skraxle Sought

So, amazing score this M2 in great shape generally. I'm totally unfamiliar with the Stout hub and Skraxle. The skewer lever was totally stuck when I bought it. . In fact the seller broke it right before my eyes trying to loosen it (it still works fine), because I wanted to get the front wheel off, to get it in my car. Anyway, I've been trying to figure this thing out. Number one, I had to get the release lever functional, because it was too close to the frame, the reason for it being so tight. I unsctrewed the little allen bolt on the lever and unscrewed the lever somee, so that seems cool now. But the other end has perplexed me. It has a stop nut on it, which I don't know if it's original, but in no way will it screw in far enough to clamp down on the fork end. Maybe it's not original. The seller knew nothing, just had this bike lying around, and wanted to dump it. Anyway, can somebody tell me how this skraxle is supposed to work and how I can get it into functional shape. I actually removed the entire axle from the hub to get the lever right, and it seems to be original. Any advice appreciated. This bike is awesome! The low normal derailleur is crazy, but works great. BTW, the pic of the whole bike has a different wheel on it.





Last edited by Trinidor; 10-14-20 at 05:58 PM. Reason: Grammar
Trinidor is offline  
Old 10-14-20, 05:50 PM
  #2  
devinfan
Senior Member
 
devinfan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 2,003
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 100 Post(s)
Liked 50 Times in 27 Posts
Sorry no help on the skewer, but I have the rigid version of this bike (now being ridden by my youngest son) and I can tell you you’re in for a treat, it’s an amazing bike! Happy trails.
devinfan is offline  
Old 10-14-20, 06:02 PM
  #3  
Trinidor
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 96

Bikes: 2006 Specilaized Roubaix Pro, 2010 Ridley XBow, 2002 Surly Crosscheck, 2011 Trek Top Fuel 9.9 SSL

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Originally Posted by devinfan
Sorry no help on the skewer, but I have the rigid version of this bike (now being ridden by my youngest son) and I can tell you you’re in for a treat, it’s an amazing bike! Happy trails.
Thanks for the reply. I hear you. The plan was to sell this one, but that is getting very difficult, Just curious. Does yours have the low normal XTR rear derailleur.
Trinidor is offline  
Old 10-14-20, 08:45 PM
  #4  
krakhaus 
Full Member
 
krakhaus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Palm Springs, California
Posts: 462
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 206 Post(s)
Liked 460 Times in 176 Posts
I have the same bike, but I swapped out the wheels years ago. I don't remember there being any issues with the skewer, but that one doesn't look to be the original one, so I'd just get a new one that fits. Mine also had the low normal (Rapid Rise) and I could never get used to it. Some people like them, but I think it was a horrible idea, especially when climbing. I tried for months to get used to it, but I finally just swapped it out for a XT and all was good.
krakhaus is offline  
Old 10-15-20, 09:01 AM
  #5  
Trinidor
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 96

Bikes: 2006 Specilaized Roubaix Pro, 2010 Ridley XBow, 2002 Surly Crosscheck, 2011 Trek Top Fuel 9.9 SSL

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Originally Posted by krakhaus
I have the same bike, but I swapped out the wheels years ago. I don't remember there being any issues with the skewer, but that one doesn't look to be the original one, so I'd just get a new one that fits. Mine also had the low normal (Rapid Rise) and I could never get used to it. Some people like them, but I think it was a horrible idea, especially when climbing. I tried for months to get used to it, but I finally just swapped it out for a XT and all was good.
Thanks for the response. The original skewer for this one has a very specific construction, in order to fit, so I think it's the original, but the axle just seems to be too long. How that happened is the conundrum. Regarding the low normal, I like it for a couple of reasons. One, because it's different and unique. i have a lot of bikes, and this is the only one with this kind of derailleur. And two, the upshifting is the most sensitive of any of the derailleurs I've experienced. Also, it seems natural to push forward a lever when upshifting, rather than retracting it.
Trinidor is offline  
Old 11-11-20, 10:38 PM
  #6  
lcarc
Member since 2007
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: El Sobrante, CA
Posts: 10

Bikes: Bridgestone MB-1, Raleigh International, Ibis Szazbo

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
I also never heard of the Specialized Skraxle until a few months ago when I started having problems with a second hand wheelset. The problem with my front Skraxle was that the threaded portion was weirdly too long, and eventually the front dropout crushed the threads so the lever would never tighten properly. My LBS, a Specialized dealer, couldn't find a replacement, and they are nearly impossible to find on eBay. Their solution? Buy a new front wheel!! Instead, I did some research and learned about the DT Swiss RWS 9mm QR thru-bolt. So far, it works like a charm and is much better than the original Skraxle since it tightens only by torquing, not clamping. Let us know if that works for you.
lcarc is offline  
Old 11-12-20, 07:18 AM
  #7  
wesmamyke
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,175
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 196 Post(s)
Liked 86 Times in 76 Posts
The DT Swiss 9mm axle would be my suggestion too. The hub does seem to have one end cap protruding though. Can that be pushed in flush, or is that gap always there?
wesmamyke is offline  
Old 11-12-20, 08:05 AM
  #8  
T-Mar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 23,223
Mentioned: 656 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4722 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3,048 Times in 1,883 Posts
A lot of people can't adapt to Rapid Rise derailleurs. They are the same ones who can't revert and ride bicycles equipped with SunTour Spirt and V-Compe front derailleurs. In the case of the SunTour front derailleurs, they were boom era and on the 1st derailleur equipped bicycles for many owners, so there wasn't as big an adaptation issue. From a technical standpoint, it makes more sense to use the spring to help with the shift to a larger cog/chainring. I like Rapid Rise and adapt after a ride or two but it is an issue if I'm constantly switching between between bicycles with standard and Rapid Rise derailleurs.
T-Mar is offline  
Old 11-12-20, 01:17 PM
  #9  
lcarc
Member since 2007
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: El Sobrante, CA
Posts: 10

Bikes: Bridgestone MB-1, Raleigh International, Ibis Szazbo

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by wesmamyke
The DT Swiss 9mm axle would be my suggestion too. The hub does seem to have one end cap protruding though. Can that be pushed in flush, or is that gap always there?
The end caps are flush on my Skraxle hub. Maybe it can be pressed or tapped in place.
lcarc is offline  
Old 11-12-20, 06:41 PM
  #10  
Trinidor
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 96

Bikes: 2006 Specilaized Roubaix Pro, 2010 Ridley XBow, 2002 Surly Crosscheck, 2011 Trek Top Fuel 9.9 SSL

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Thanks all for the responses. So far, I don't see any way I can close the gap on the threaded portion and maintain the proper distance on the other side. The nut on the threaded part, is a locking type and only goes so far. My best solution so far is to get a regular 9mm nut with appropriate threads and a lock washer and substitute that for the nut that's on the axle. I' got the proper nut at myLBS, but for now am just using another wheel and hub, which has me perfectly happy. But, due to my restless nature, and because I think the original Stout hub is really a good hub, I'm sure to try the regular bolt fix soon. Does anybody see a problem with just using a regular 9mm bolt instead of the original? One theory I have to explain the gap problem is that this is an axle for a rear mountain bike 135 mm hub that someone put on the front wheel 100mm hub.
Trinidor is offline  
Old 11-12-20, 06:54 PM
  #11  
Trinidor
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 96

Bikes: 2006 Specilaized Roubaix Pro, 2010 Ridley XBow, 2002 Surly Crosscheck, 2011 Trek Top Fuel 9.9 SSL

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Originally Posted by T-Mar
A lot of people can't adapt to Rapid Rise derailleurs. They are the same ones who can't revert and ride bicycles equipped with SunTour Spirt and V-Compe front derailleurs. In the case of the SunTour front derailleurs, they were boom era and on the 1st derailleur equipped bicycles for many owners, so there wasn't as big an adaptation issue. From a technical standpoint, it makes more sense to use the spring to help with the shift to a larger cog/chainring. I like Rapid Rise and adapt after a ride or two but it is an issue if I'm constantly switching between between bicycles with standard and Rapid Rise derailleurs.
T-Mar, I'm enjoying the rapid rise, but the riding adjustment is the easy part. Since I'm a bit of a bike mechanic, and have worked on 100s of bikes, its more of a mindboggle to work on the drivetrain, replace cables adjust shifting, etc.
Trinidor is offline  
Old 11-17-20, 04:31 PM
  #12  
wesmamyke
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,175
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 196 Post(s)
Liked 86 Times in 76 Posts
So I was going through a pile of wheels in storage and I happen to have a front wheel with that exact hub and straxle thing. Rim seems almost junk, not opposed to cutting the spokes and shipping off the hub if you want it.
wesmamyke is offline  
Old 11-18-20, 07:59 PM
  #13  
lcarc
Member since 2007
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: El Sobrante, CA
Posts: 10

Bikes: Bridgestone MB-1, Raleigh International, Ibis Szazbo

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by Trinidor
Thanks all for the responses. So far, I don't see any way I can close the gap on the threaded portion and maintain the proper distance on the other side. The nut on the threaded part, is a locking type and only goes so far. My best solution so far is to get a regular 9mm nut with appropriate threads and a lock washer and substitute that for the nut that's on the axle. I' got the proper nut at myLBS, but for now am just using another wheel and hub, which has me perfectly happy. But, due to my restless nature, and because I think the original Stout hub is really a good hub, I'm sure to try the regular bolt fix soon. Does anybody see a problem with just using a regular 9mm bolt instead of the original? One theory I have to explain the gap problem is that this is an axle for a rear mountain bike 135 mm hub that someone put on the front wheel 100mm hub.
This seems like a question for your LBS. By "regular," do you mean no QR? You bought the proper nut but not the thru axle?
lcarc is offline  
Old 11-18-20, 08:59 PM
  #14  
Trinidor
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 96

Bikes: 2006 Specilaized Roubaix Pro, 2010 Ridley XBow, 2002 Surly Crosscheck, 2011 Trek Top Fuel 9.9 SSL

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Originally Posted by lcarc
This seems like a question for your LBS. By "regular," do you mean no QR? You bought the proper nut but not the thru axle?
I misspoke when I posed the question of whether anybody saw a problem with using a 9mm 'regular ' BOLT instead of the one pictured. I should have written 'Does anyone see a problem using a regular 9mm NUT instead of the locking one that came with the axle. The axle I have is just the one in the picture, which seems too long for a a front wheel.
Trinidor is offline  
Old 12-07-20, 02:52 AM
  #15  
lcarc
Member since 2007
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: El Sobrante, CA
Posts: 10

Bikes: Bridgestone MB-1, Raleigh International, Ibis Szazbo

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by Trinidor
I misspoke when I posed the question of whether anybody saw a problem with using a 9mm 'regular ' BOLT instead of the one pictured. I should have written 'Does anyone see a problem using a regular 9mm NUT instead of the locking one that came with the axle. The axle I have is just the one in the picture, which seems too long for a a front wheel.
In theory, that shouldn't be a problem, but I've never seen a 9 mm nut at a hardware store. Maybe someone sells them online? Bolt Depot doesn't appear to have it. Leave it to bike manufacturers to make/use "specialized" parts--no pun intended.
lcarc is offline  
Old 12-08-20, 12:22 PM
  #16  
Trinidor
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 96

Bikes: 2006 Specilaized Roubaix Pro, 2010 Ridley XBow, 2002 Surly Crosscheck, 2011 Trek Top Fuel 9.9 SSL

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Originally Posted by lcarc
In theory, that shouldn't be a problem, but I've never seen a 9 mm nut at a hardware store. Maybe someone sells them online? Bolt Depot doesn't appear to have it. Leave it to bike manufacturers to make/use "specialized" parts--no pun intended.
I didn't even mess with the hardware stores. I went to my LBS and they had one, for an exorbitant price, of course. It fits fine.
Trinidor is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.