Help with 1998 Stumjumper M2 Skraxle Sought
#1
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Help with 1998 Specialized Stumpjumper M2 Skraxle Sought
So, amazing score this M2 in great shape generally. I'm totally unfamiliar with the Stout hub and Skraxle. The skewer lever was totally stuck when I bought it. . In fact the seller broke it right before my eyes trying to loosen it (it still works fine), because I wanted to get the front wheel off, to get it in my car. Anyway, I've been trying to figure this thing out. Number one, I had to get the release lever functional, because it was too close to the frame, the reason for it being so tight. I unsctrewed the little allen bolt on the lever and unscrewed the lever somee, so that seems cool now. But the other end has perplexed me. It has a stop nut on it, which I don't know if it's original, but in no way will it screw in far enough to clamp down on the fork end. Maybe it's not original. The seller knew nothing, just had this bike lying around, and wanted to dump it. Anyway, can somebody tell me how this skraxle is supposed to work and how I can get it into functional shape. I actually removed the entire axle from the hub to get the lever right, and it seems to be original. Any advice appreciated. This bike is awesome! The low normal derailleur is crazy, but works great. BTW, the pic of the whole bike has a different wheel on it.
Last edited by Trinidor; 10-14-20 at 05:58 PM. Reason: Grammar
#2
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Sorry no help on the skewer, but I have the rigid version of this bike (now being ridden by my youngest son) and I can tell you you’re in for a treat, it’s an amazing bike! Happy trails.
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Thanks for the reply. I hear you. The plan was to sell this one, but that is getting very difficult, Just curious. Does yours have the low normal XTR rear derailleur.
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I have the same bike, but I swapped out the wheels years ago. I don't remember there being any issues with the skewer, but that one doesn't look to be the original one, so I'd just get a new one that fits. Mine also had the low normal (Rapid Rise) and I could never get used to it. Some people like them, but I think it was a horrible idea, especially when climbing. I tried for months to get used to it, but I finally just swapped it out for a XT and all was good.
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I have the same bike, but I swapped out the wheels years ago. I don't remember there being any issues with the skewer, but that one doesn't look to be the original one, so I'd just get a new one that fits. Mine also had the low normal (Rapid Rise) and I could never get used to it. Some people like them, but I think it was a horrible idea, especially when climbing. I tried for months to get used to it, but I finally just swapped it out for a XT and all was good.
#6
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I also never heard of the Specialized Skraxle until a few months ago when I started having problems with a second hand wheelset. The problem with my front Skraxle was that the threaded portion was weirdly too long, and eventually the front dropout crushed the threads so the lever would never tighten properly. My LBS, a Specialized dealer, couldn't find a replacement, and they are nearly impossible to find on eBay. Their solution? Buy a new front wheel!! Instead, I did some research and learned about the DT Swiss RWS 9mm QR thru-bolt. So far, it works like a charm and is much better than the original Skraxle since it tightens only by torquing, not clamping. Let us know if that works for you.
#7
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The DT Swiss 9mm axle would be my suggestion too. The hub does seem to have one end cap protruding though. Can that be pushed in flush, or is that gap always there?
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A lot of people can't adapt to Rapid Rise derailleurs. They are the same ones who can't revert and ride bicycles equipped with SunTour Spirt and V-Compe front derailleurs. In the case of the SunTour front derailleurs, they were boom era and on the 1st derailleur equipped bicycles for many owners, so there wasn't as big an adaptation issue. From a technical standpoint, it makes more sense to use the spring to help with the shift to a larger cog/chainring. I like Rapid Rise and adapt after a ride or two but it is an issue if I'm constantly switching between between bicycles with standard and Rapid Rise derailleurs.
#9
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Thanks all for the responses. So far, I don't see any way I can close the gap on the threaded portion and maintain the proper distance on the other side. The nut on the threaded part, is a locking type and only goes so far. My best solution so far is to get a regular 9mm nut with appropriate threads and a lock washer and substitute that for the nut that's on the axle. I' got the proper nut at myLBS, but for now am just using another wheel and hub, which has me perfectly happy. But, due to my restless nature, and because I think the original Stout hub is really a good hub, I'm sure to try the regular bolt fix soon. Does anybody see a problem with just using a regular 9mm bolt instead of the original? One theory I have to explain the gap problem is that this is an axle for a rear mountain bike 135 mm hub that someone put on the front wheel 100mm hub.
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A lot of people can't adapt to Rapid Rise derailleurs. They are the same ones who can't revert and ride bicycles equipped with SunTour Spirt and V-Compe front derailleurs. In the case of the SunTour front derailleurs, they were boom era and on the 1st derailleur equipped bicycles for many owners, so there wasn't as big an adaptation issue. From a technical standpoint, it makes more sense to use the spring to help with the shift to a larger cog/chainring. I like Rapid Rise and adapt after a ride or two but it is an issue if I'm constantly switching between between bicycles with standard and Rapid Rise derailleurs.
#12
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So I was going through a pile of wheels in storage and I happen to have a front wheel with that exact hub and straxle thing. Rim seems almost junk, not opposed to cutting the spokes and shipping off the hub if you want it.
#13
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Thanks all for the responses. So far, I don't see any way I can close the gap on the threaded portion and maintain the proper distance on the other side. The nut on the threaded part, is a locking type and only goes so far. My best solution so far is to get a regular 9mm nut with appropriate threads and a lock washer and substitute that for the nut that's on the axle. I' got the proper nut at myLBS, but for now am just using another wheel and hub, which has me perfectly happy. But, due to my restless nature, and because I think the original Stout hub is really a good hub, I'm sure to try the regular bolt fix soon. Does anybody see a problem with just using a regular 9mm bolt instead of the original? One theory I have to explain the gap problem is that this is an axle for a rear mountain bike 135 mm hub that someone put on the front wheel 100mm hub.
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I misspoke when I posed the question of whether anybody saw a problem with using a 9mm 'regular ' BOLT instead of the one pictured. I should have written 'Does anyone see a problem using a regular 9mm NUT instead of the locking one that came with the axle. The axle I have is just the one in the picture, which seems too long for a a front wheel.
#15
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I misspoke when I posed the question of whether anybody saw a problem with using a 9mm 'regular ' BOLT instead of the one pictured. I should have written 'Does anyone see a problem using a regular 9mm NUT instead of the locking one that came with the axle. The axle I have is just the one in the picture, which seems too long for a a front wheel.
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I didn't even mess with the hardware stores. I went to my LBS and they had one, for an exorbitant price, of course. It fits fine.