Help with Handlebar Choice
#26
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I’ve been good with these. Noirette plus, from Amazon. Multiple hand positions. Comfortable angles. We’re all different, ymmv.
#27
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Here’s a list from Bikepacking.com published last year. Lots of appealing options. https://bikepacking.com/index/comfort-mtb-handlebars/
#28
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Jones H Bar
I went from Mountain Bike handlebars with a minimum sweep to Jones H Bars. Comfort level went way up. BTW if you are looking for a more upright position...if you change handlebars don't forget to adjust your front-aft position on your seat.
#29
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Check out Eregotec (https://www.ergotec.de/en/products/l...ng-lenker.html) for lots of options. If you don't have a dealer locally, you can often pick them up for a reasonable price on eBay.
#30
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Otto
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#31
Newbie
I recently rode my bike for 216 kilometres (134 miles) and afterwards had problems with my elbow. Although I had super comfy grips which are clone of Ergon grips, the handlebar was more or less straight. So I was thinking a lot what to do with this situation because obviously some strain to elbows comes from flat handlebar, similar to what regular computer mouse does to your hand wrist in comparison to vertical mouse. Since I can't access some fancy equipment in time of coronavirus, I purchased classical Dutch handlebar and modified it to make something similar to Surly Moloko Bar and such.
These are the photos after modification. I added bar ends in the middle and put some foam grips to them. Also I put foam grips in the middle since there is plenty of space there with this type of handlebar. Of course main grips are located at the side and I put some ergonomic grips I could find at that moment. All in all, it seems there will be more positions for hands now in addition to more upright riding position. It all cost me 20 USD.
There is a picture how this Dutch bar looks on another bike I found on internet. It doesn't look as if it has many positions. But it has that considerable sweep back like Jones H Bar or Surly Moloko Bar or Orange Crazy Bar. This will help with strain on wrists and elbows during 200+ km rides. Also, unlike these branded aforementioned bars, this generic Dutch bar is riser, almost idential to the above post number 10 just that I have added bar ends and grips in the middle too. https://www.bikeforums.net/21735097-post10.html
This is how my old handlebar looked like. Although very comfy it made issues on super long rides because I had one main position (very comfortable) and bar end position, but obviously that wasn't enough. Ok, I must admit, on super long rides no handlebar will save you from the pain in the end, but at least we can try and experiment to minimize the chances for injury.
These are the photos after modification. I added bar ends in the middle and put some foam grips to them. Also I put foam grips in the middle since there is plenty of space there with this type of handlebar. Of course main grips are located at the side and I put some ergonomic grips I could find at that moment. All in all, it seems there will be more positions for hands now in addition to more upright riding position. It all cost me 20 USD.
There is a picture how this Dutch bar looks on another bike I found on internet. It doesn't look as if it has many positions. But it has that considerable sweep back like Jones H Bar or Surly Moloko Bar or Orange Crazy Bar. This will help with strain on wrists and elbows during 200+ km rides. Also, unlike these branded aforementioned bars, this generic Dutch bar is riser, almost idential to the above post number 10 just that I have added bar ends and grips in the middle too. https://www.bikeforums.net/21735097-post10.html
This is how my old handlebar looked like. Although very comfy it made issues on super long rides because I had one main position (very comfortable) and bar end position, but obviously that wasn't enough. Ok, I must admit, on super long rides no handlebar will save you from the pain in the end, but at least we can try and experiment to minimize the chances for injury.
#32
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IThese are the photos after modification. I added bar ends in the middle and put some foam grips to them. Also I put foam grips in the middle since there is plenty of space there with this type of handlebar. Of course main grips are located at the side and I put some ergonomic grips I could find at that moment. All in all, it seems there will be more positions for hands now in addition to more upright riding position. It all cost me 20 USD.
Otto
#33
Newbie
I paid them around 6 dollars. The good thing about this design is that normally they can't go around curves on my main bar but you can use some tool to make the opening wider just enough so that you can go around the curve. I used hammer and inserted angled part into the opening of the bar end, then I pressed it into the opening (it was some force indeed) against the floor, bar end got a little bit wider so I could navigate it around the curves on the main bar. Later on I used the supplied screw and tightened the bar end so it returned in its initial state. I believe this is easily accomplished with steel bar ends and the steel is more flexible and resilient to aluminum to bending and deformations so you won't damage bar ends.
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#34
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Well those are some very affordable steel bar ends similar to the one in the picture below:
I paid them around 6 dollars. The good thing about this design is that normally they can't go around curves on my main bar but you can use some tool to make the opening wider just enough so that you can go around the curve. I used hammer and inserted angled part into the opening of the bar end, then I pressed it into the opening (it was some force indeed) against the floor, bar end got a little bit wider so I could navigate it around the curves on the main bar. Later on I used the supplied screw and tightened the bar end so it returned in its initial state. I believe this is easily accomplished with steel bar ends and the steel is more flexible and resilient to aluminum to bending and deformations so you won't damage bar ends.
I paid them around 6 dollars. The good thing about this design is that normally they can't go around curves on my main bar but you can use some tool to make the opening wider just enough so that you can go around the curve. I used hammer and inserted angled part into the opening of the bar end, then I pressed it into the opening (it was some force indeed) against the floor, bar end got a little bit wider so I could navigate it around the curves on the main bar. Later on I used the supplied screw and tightened the bar end so it returned in its initial state. I believe this is easily accomplished with steel bar ends and the steel is more flexible and resilient to aluminum to bending and deformations so you won't damage bar ends.
Otto