Kuwahara Count restoration
08-14-21, 08:24 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 171
Bikes: Fuji Touring Series V 1985, Motobecane Grand Touring 1982, Specialized Stumpjumper 1993, Raleigh International 1972, Raleigh Grand Prix 1972, Kuwahara Count 1983, Trek Cirrus 1987, Shogun 2001 1983, Cannondale SM700 1990
Liked 175 Times
in
97 Posts
Kuwahara Count restoration
Today I bought another bike, a Kuwahara Count made in August 1983. Same colors as the one in this old thread:
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/1054158-kuwahara-count.html
And this one on Craigslist in Connecticut for $300 (e.g.):
https://newhaven.craigslist.org/bik/...346714496.html (listing is gone sorry)
It was very dusty when I picked it up and the back wheel would not even turn. After spraying both derailleurs and the freewheel with some pb blaster everything is free. The rear wheel now will spin for a couple minutes I credit the Suntour branded hubs. 34/40 hill gearing for hills.
The frame is lightweight the tires have a little bit of life left. It only needed a new front tube. But the fork. I have access to a park tool FFS-2 and I guess just bend back one blade and then the other?
In this thread here from last year a metal pipe was the tool of choice:
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...ightneing.html
The solution there was kinda vague but sounded legit since framebuilders were involved “Get a long pipe, about a foot longer than the fork mask the fork so it doesn't get scratched, and go to town on it.”
Do I get a new fork? A threadless fork? Turn the fork backward and ram it into a wall? 650b?
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/1054158-kuwahara-count.html
And this one on Craigslist in Connecticut for $300 (e.g.):
https://newhaven.craigslist.org/bik/...346714496.html (listing is gone sorry)
It was very dusty when I picked it up and the back wheel would not even turn. After spraying both derailleurs and the freewheel with some pb blaster everything is free. The rear wheel now will spin for a couple minutes I credit the Suntour branded hubs. 34/40 hill gearing for hills.
The frame is lightweight the tires have a little bit of life left. It only needed a new front tube. But the fork. I have access to a park tool FFS-2 and I guess just bend back one blade and then the other?
In this thread here from last year a metal pipe was the tool of choice:
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...ightneing.html
The solution there was kinda vague but sounded legit since framebuilders were involved “Get a long pipe, about a foot longer than the fork mask the fork so it doesn't get scratched, and go to town on it.”
Do I get a new fork? A threadless fork? Turn the fork backward and ram it into a wall? 650b?
Last edited by ZudeJammer; 09-28-21 at 07:03 AM.
08-14-21, 08:25 PM
#2
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 171
Bikes: Fuji Touring Series V 1985, Motobecane Grand Touring 1982, Specialized Stumpjumper 1993, Raleigh International 1972, Raleigh Grand Prix 1972, Kuwahara Count 1983, Trek Cirrus 1987, Shogun 2001 1983, Cannondale SM700 1990
Liked 175 Times
in
97 Posts
08-15-21, 09:22 AM
#3
Nice pickup, I do not think a new fork is needed from looking at the pictures, re-alignment definitely. I would not recommend turning the fork backwards forcing impact as a corrective method.
I made a jig to hold forks in a manner that does not bend the steertube and prevent the fork from rotation when making an adjustment. My jig is a 2'x3"x4" hardwood timber with a 1" bore that is sawn in half on one end of the timber.
I take the timber and a couple of clamps to a secure bench, one clamp has a block adjacent to the bore for anti-rotation. I use a third clamp at the sides of the bore holding the steer tube which also is used as a fulcrum point for a 5'x2"x3" used to leverage, in your case, on the backside of the tine one at a time.
I made a jig to hold forks in a manner that does not bend the steertube and prevent the fork from rotation when making an adjustment. My jig is a 2'x3"x4" hardwood timber with a 1" bore that is sawn in half on one end of the timber.
I take the timber and a couple of clamps to a secure bench, one clamp has a block adjacent to the bore for anti-rotation. I use a third clamp at the sides of the bore holding the steer tube which also is used as a fulcrum point for a 5'x2"x3" used to leverage, in your case, on the backside of the tine one at a time.
09-27-21, 10:10 PM
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 171
Bikes: Fuji Touring Series V 1985, Motobecane Grand Touring 1982, Specialized Stumpjumper 1993, Raleigh International 1972, Raleigh Grand Prix 1972, Kuwahara Count 1983, Trek Cirrus 1987, Shogun 2001 1983, Cannondale SM700 1990
Liked 175 Times
in
97 Posts
Thanks for the tips about the fork I was going to build that wooden jig then I read about a great method involving a ratchet strap which I already had but I ended up paying $50 for the bike shop to do it.
Here it is in front of the bike co-op awaiting a new rear wheel due to one of the hub races cracked into pieces. New red cables and seat superglued together I put on MKS esquartz pedals too but I don’t like them. Waxed and polished.
The old IRC tires are in the bin. Found a very nice SR wheel to replace the broken Suntour wheel.
Bag came with the bike so it’s all cleaned up, interior layer had to be scraped out.
This brake “thing” was installed upside down so I rotated it and adjusted the whole thing.
Closeup of the red cable, it could have been redder but I like it.
Bike as I received it, picture from the facebook ad. Almost done now just need new pedals, maybe better tires.
Here it is in front of the bike co-op awaiting a new rear wheel due to one of the hub races cracked into pieces. New red cables and seat superglued together I put on MKS esquartz pedals too but I don’t like them. Waxed and polished.
The old IRC tires are in the bin. Found a very nice SR wheel to replace the broken Suntour wheel.
Bag came with the bike so it’s all cleaned up, interior layer had to be scraped out.
This brake “thing” was installed upside down so I rotated it and adjusted the whole thing.
Closeup of the red cable, it could have been redder but I like it.
Bike as I received it, picture from the facebook ad. Almost done now just need new pedals, maybe better tires.
Last edited by ZudeJammer; 09-27-21 at 10:26 PM.
Likes For ZudeJammer:
09-28-21, 06:40 AM
#5
Miyata Mike
I've got a Kuwahara Duke in the basement with the stem mounted shifters - Its in superb condition
09-28-21, 06:41 AM
#6
Full Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Worcester, Massachusetts
Posts: 308
Bikes: Fuji Sportif 1.7C, Shogun Metro AT, Jamis Durango SX, Miyata Alumicross, Fuji Special Road Racer, Mongoose ATB, Fuji SST 1.0 Team, Gitane (?), Specialized Rockhopper SS, Univega Gran Turismo, Univega Supra Sport Mixte, Nishiki Tri-A, Diamondback Coil
Liked 141 Times
in
78 Posts
Lovely bike, you did a super job with it. I've tried a few fork straightening sessions with little luck, so good for you for going to the bike shop. However, I know I shouldn't be surprised, but it floors me that someone charged you $300 for a bike that needed so much work. But again, beautiful bike with neat details. Enjoy!
09-28-21, 07:01 AM
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 171
Bikes: Fuji Touring Series V 1985, Motobecane Grand Touring 1982, Specialized Stumpjumper 1993, Raleigh International 1972, Raleigh Grand Prix 1972, Kuwahara Count 1983, Trek Cirrus 1987, Shogun 2001 1983, Cannondale SM700 1990
Liked 175 Times
in
97 Posts
Lovely bike, you did a super job with it. I've tried a few fork straightening sessions with little luck, so good for you for going to the bike shop. However, I know I shouldn't be surprised, but it floors me that someone charged you $300 for a bike that needed so much work. But again, beautiful bike with neat details. Enjoy!
09-28-21, 12:37 PM
#8
Full Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Worcester, Massachusetts
Posts: 308
Bikes: Fuji Sportif 1.7C, Shogun Metro AT, Jamis Durango SX, Miyata Alumicross, Fuji Special Road Racer, Mongoose ATB, Fuji SST 1.0 Team, Gitane (?), Specialized Rockhopper SS, Univega Gran Turismo, Univega Supra Sport Mixte, Nishiki Tri-A, Diamondback Coil
Liked 141 Times
in
78 Posts
09-28-21, 01:42 PM
#10
(rhymes with spook)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Winslow, AR
Posts: 2,788
Bikes: '83 univega gran turismo x2, '85 schwinn super le tour,'89 miyata triple cross, '91 GT tequesta, '90 yokota grizzly peak, '94 GT backwoods, '95'ish scott tampico, '98 bonty privateer, '93 mongoose crossway 625, '98 parkpre ariel, 2k'ish giant fcr3
Liked 745 Times
in
546 Posts
10-14-22, 07:31 AM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Utah
Posts: 8,824
Bikes: Paletti,Pinarello Monviso,Duell Vienna,Giordana XL Super,Lemond Maillot Juane.& custom,PDG Paramount,Fuji Opus III,Davidson Impulse,Pashley Guv'nor,Evans,Fishlips,Y-Foil,Softride, Tetra Pro, CAAD8 Optimo,
Liked 5,430 Times
in
1,874 Posts
Today I bought another bike, a Kuwahara Count made in August 1983. Same colors as the one in this old thread:
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/1054158-kuwahara-count.html
And this one on Craigslist in Connecticut for $300 (e.g.):
https://newhaven.craigslist.org/bik/...346714496.html (listing is gone sorry)
It was very dusty when I picked it up and the back wheel would not even turn. After spraying both derailleurs and the freewheel with some pb blaster everything is free. The rear wheel now will spin for a couple minutes I credit the Suntour branded hubs. 34/40 hill gearing for hills.
The frame is lightweight the tires have a little bit of life left. It only needed a new front tube. But the fork. I have access to a park tool FFS-2 and I guess just bend back one blade and then the other?
In this thread here from last year a metal pipe was the tool of choice:
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...ightneing.html
The solution there was kinda vague but sounded legit since framebuilders were involved “Get a long pipe, about a foot longer than the fork mask the fork so it doesn't get scratched, and go to town on it.”
Do I get a new fork? A threadless fork? Turn the fork backward and ram it into a wall? 650b?
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/1054158-kuwahara-count.html
And this one on Craigslist in Connecticut for $300 (e.g.):
https://newhaven.craigslist.org/bik/...346714496.html (listing is gone sorry)
It was very dusty when I picked it up and the back wheel would not even turn. After spraying both derailleurs and the freewheel with some pb blaster everything is free. The rear wheel now will spin for a couple minutes I credit the Suntour branded hubs. 34/40 hill gearing for hills.
The frame is lightweight the tires have a little bit of life left. It only needed a new front tube. But the fork. I have access to a park tool FFS-2 and I guess just bend back one blade and then the other?
In this thread here from last year a metal pipe was the tool of choice:
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...ightneing.html
The solution there was kinda vague but sounded legit since framebuilders were involved “Get a long pipe, about a foot longer than the fork mask the fork so it doesn't get scratched, and go to town on it.”
Do I get a new fork? A threadless fork? Turn the fork backward and ram it into a wall? 650b?
I just realized yours's was built just 5 frames after mine!
__________________
Steel is real...and comfy.
Steel is real...and comfy.
Likes For jamesdak:
Likes For jet sanchEz:
