Conti GP5000 tire life-span: how many miles did you get?
#26
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my first set of 5000tl’s (early production) would throw cords regularly, never split from the casing though. I showed the owner of my LBS (small shop big community partner), and he swapped them out for me. He later told me that Conti replaced them for him on his next order.
I’m on my third set I think. They do last longer than I usually get. About 2500 miles before casing was getting beyond thin. I ride the TL’s, don’t think I’ve ever gotten a flat that didn’t seal on any of them. Nasty suckers to put on my wheels as compared to all the other TL’s I’ve had but great tires IMHO. So tight but easiest to seat though lol
I’m on my third set I think. They do last longer than I usually get. About 2500 miles before casing was getting beyond thin. I ride the TL’s, don’t think I’ve ever gotten a flat that didn’t seal on any of them. Nasty suckers to put on my wheels as compared to all the other TL’s I’ve had but great tires IMHO. So tight but easiest to seat though lol
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#27
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I have had the same issue with the bead separating from the tire on two different GP5000 tires. Both were 700CX25 TL and both were mounted on the rear of my Lynskey, both on an alloy rim, but they were not on the same rim. Both of the tires were worn to a point where the wear indicator dimples were barely visible. I have had zero issues with the 700CX32 on the tandem. Because I buy several tires at a time and keep them in my personal inventory, these could be from an early production batch. Until I hear from Conti I will not know.
Both were running tubeless, both with Orange Seal Sub-zero sealant, and in both cases the tire stayed on the rim in spite of the sudden deflation event. The first one I was going very slow. The second one, not so slow, but because the tire did not come off the bead shoulder on the rim, I was able to maintain control and come to a safe stop.
After the last one I inspected the rim and found no rough spots that should have damaged the tire. I also inspected the brake pad alignment and I did not see any alignment issues which would have made the pads rub on the sidewall of the tire. Also, inspecting the tire I see no evidence that the brake pad rubbed on the tire.
I am very rigorous in checking pressure, so I know that the tire was inflated to 100 PSI when I started my ride. I contacted (no pun intended) Continental 3 days ago but I have not heard back from them. I also like the GP5000 tires, and at the very least I will use up the 3 700C X 25s that I have on the shelf, but I will be replacing them when the wear dimples are still fairly visible instead of waiting until they disappear.
Both were running tubeless, both with Orange Seal Sub-zero sealant, and in both cases the tire stayed on the rim in spite of the sudden deflation event. The first one I was going very slow. The second one, not so slow, but because the tire did not come off the bead shoulder on the rim, I was able to maintain control and come to a safe stop.
After the last one I inspected the rim and found no rough spots that should have damaged the tire. I also inspected the brake pad alignment and I did not see any alignment issues which would have made the pads rub on the sidewall of the tire. Also, inspecting the tire I see no evidence that the brake pad rubbed on the tire.
I am very rigorous in checking pressure, so I know that the tire was inflated to 100 PSI when I started my ride. I contacted (no pun intended) Continental 3 days ago but I have not heard back from them. I also like the GP5000 tires, and at the very least I will use up the 3 700C X 25s that I have on the shelf, but I will be replacing them when the wear dimples are still fairly visible instead of waiting until they disappear.
#28
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The split in my case is 'behind' the rim, not exposed to brake pad, which is why I didn't see any bulging when inflated like one normally would with a small casing cut. I did check pads and they are aligned, but if out they would not rub in this area. Was a front tire at ~90psi. I checked the inside edges of the rim again, all like new with no edges or scuffing. Never used a tool near this tire, all hand installed.
This is a better image:
Inside:
This is a better image:
Inside:
#29
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Preorders available: Continental Grand Prix 5000 S TR Road Tire at BikeTiresDirect
$100 a tire. Ouch. Good thing winter is coming in my part of the world so I won't need to be ordering new tires for ~6 months and can hopefully wait for a sale price.
$100 a tire. Ouch. Good thing winter is coming in my part of the world so I won't need to be ordering new tires for ~6 months and can hopefully wait for a sale price.
#30
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I replaced my rear to a 28c clincher at beginning of June and it is at 1750 miles. I have small cuts from glass/rock but in good condition.
The front has a GP4 25c that should be on its 2500 miles or so. I didn't buy a 28c because the prices are too high
The front has a GP4 25c that should be on its 2500 miles or so. I didn't buy a 28c because the prices are too high
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#31
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would you guys replace this tire? GP5000 tubeless 32mm. ridden ±50psi typically. approx 2,200 miles on it, all paved. 185lb rider. VERY flat averse - would rather spend the $$$ sooner than get a flat, but have no idea how close these are to any kind of spontaneous failure. the rear is quite "flattened" or squared off in profile, and you can just barely see the wear dots still.
#32
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would you guys replace this tire? GP5000 tubeless 32mm. ridden ±50psi typically. approx 2,200 miles on it, all paved. 185lb rider. VERY flat averse - would rather spend the $$$ sooner than get a flat, but have no idea how close these are to any kind of spontaneous failure. the rear is quite "flattened" or squared off in profile, and you can just barely see the wear dots still.
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#33
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That tire looks nearing retirement but not quite there yet. When the wear marks are invisible, it's time to bin it imo.
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#34
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Yeah, you can definitely get some more miles out of that tire, but you should remove that glass shard that's visible slightly left of center in the pic, appears countersunk by maybe 1mm in to the tread. I typically use a tiny awl or large sewing needle for that purpose.
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#35
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Yeah, you can definitely get some more miles out of that tire, but you should remove that glass shard that's visible slightly left of center in the pic, appears countersunk by maybe 1mm in to the tread. I typically use a tiny awl or large sewing needle for that purpose.
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what’s the main impact of squaring off? rolls slower due to so much more contact?
#38
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I would 100% replace it.
too many cuts right to the casing
too many cuts right to the casing
#39
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I got about 8,000 mi out of my last rear-mounted GP5000. I trashed it after its first flat, with the dimples still visible. It was pretty squared-off, but I noticed no big change in handling.
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#41
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#43
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Wow, My rear gp5k last ~3500 miles before the rubber peels from the casing along the tread area before dimples are gone. I am 170+20 for the bike. I wonder if it is the heat.
#44
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#46
don't try this at home.
No. the remaining tread was paper thin. The dimples are accurate.
Squaring off
I notice the rear squaring off quite early. But after that initial wear, it progresses quite slowly. I assume the wear surface is wider, so wear slows down.
I'm guessing 4000 miles on the rear tire. Then I move the front to the rear, otherwise it sits on the front for years, accumulating cracks and cuts.
More flats from worn down tires?
It's accepted wisdom, but is it true at all? The tread is maybe 2mm thick when the tire is new. How is that more cut proof than 1/2 mm at the end of the year?
Mileage
Tires wear out fast for strong riders. They are putting way more force into the rear tread, more often. Sitting and spinning is way easier on tire life.
#47
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i'm not a particularly strong rider - 200w-240w for two hours is sort of my standard ride. but i do wonder if a lot of extended climbing in the saddle wears the rear down fast, with even more weight on the rear tire vs the front than usual.
#48
don't try this at home.
i mean, i assume something which was only capable of penetrating 1mm into the tire would blow out a tire with 1/2mm of rubber but not 2mm? perhaps it doesn't work like that?
Sure. But it's mainly the high tech fabric under the rubber that's supposed to stop the sharp bits.
i'm not a particularly strong rider - 200w-240w for two hours is sort of my standard ride. but i do wonder if a lot of extended climbing in the saddle wears the rear down fast, with even more weight on the rear tire vs the front than usual.
Sure. But it's mainly the high tech fabric under the rubber that's supposed to stop the sharp bits.
i'm not a particularly strong rider - 200w-240w for two hours is sort of my standard ride. but i do wonder if a lot of extended climbing in the saddle wears the rear down fast, with even more weight on the rear tire vs the front than usual.
I think almost every rider increases the effort considerably on climbs compared to flats. Even the casual pace cruising riders that I sometimes ride with.
And at some moderate grade, the watts have to increase anyway, or the rider will fall over from the very slow speeds. I'm thinking the tire wear from pedal force on the climbs outweighs the free, coasting downhill portions.
I was just thinking of a few riders I know that have loud tires sounds with each pedal stroke. Perhaps they have larger peak watts instead of a smoother pedal action, or more steering action with each left-right stroke. That noise is probably extra tire wear, too.
#49
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threads came out to play around the entire rear tire on the last ride. front tire looks like maybe 500 miles left. installed both new conti gp 5000’s together. 3,629 miles on that rear tire. approx 20 dirt miles included.
#50
Full Member
Understand its all situational, but I have 4000+ miles on my GP5000's. According to the wear indicators they have plenty of life left in them, and still feel great. I have had one flat in 4000 miles!