Would appreciate info on a purchase.....
#1
L-man
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Would appreciate info on a purchase.....
I'm of limited funds,63 years old, but have found a great escape past time(when I can get some time),
riding our cities greenways. I just picked up this
60cm special Allez pro. It is steel framed , seller said was his dad's.....ride for a few hundred miles then stored in a barn for over 20 years. Seller (son)brought it out, lubed it , replaced inner tubes and tires that had dry rotted.
Any one care to guess the age ? Appreciate any help in advance of receiving 🤗
0
riding our cities greenways. I just picked up this
60cm special Allez pro. It is steel framed , seller said was his dad's.....ride for a few hundred miles then stored in a barn for over 20 years. Seller (son)brought it out, lubed it , replaced inner tubes and tires that had dry rotted.
Any one care to guess the age ? Appreciate any help in advance of receiving 🤗
0
#2
Zip tie Karen
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What is the date code on the calipers? The right shifter is a late addition. I'm not familiar enough with Specialized to make even a wild guess. But the unicrown fork tells you post-1988, I'm thinking. Is the rear derailleur a Shimano Sante? That would put it post 1987.
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#3
L-man
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What is the date code on the calipers? The right shifter is a late addition. I'm not familiar enough with Specialized to make even a wild guess. But the unicrown fork tells you post-1988, I'm thinking. Is the rear derailleur a Shimano Sante? That would put it post 1987.
#4
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Rear derailleur was manufactured between 1988 and 1991, according to VeloBase entry on RD-6400
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#5
Senior Member
Considering the mismatched components, this bike could easily have been built up from a bare frame. An actual date of manufacture might not be feasible. Looking at the overall condition of the bike, it looks as if it has seen a lot more than a couple of hundred miles of use. Might well have been bought by the seller's father second hand
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#7
Old fart
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Horizontal dropouts suggest mid-80s at the latest, to me. Crank is also of that era, although it's obvious not all the components on the bike are original.
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#8
Sunshine
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The RD and FD are late 80s early 90s. Wonky half STI shifting indicates it was either partially updated to STI rear shifting or partially downgraded due to component breaking. The crankset is high quality.
Its a mish-mash of really nice drivetrain components.
And as another poster said- that thing has been ridden a lot more than a few hundred miles. It really should have a full overhaul and cleaning. It should at least have a degreasing and cleaned. That is a lot of grime from only a few hundred miles.
Unicrown fork- 86 or later?
Horizontal dropouts- 80s.
ETA- the seat cluster looks 80s as I do know an early 90s Allez used seat stay plugs for at least one year and I would assume more.
Its a mish-mash of really nice drivetrain components.
And as another poster said- that thing has been ridden a lot more than a few hundred miles. It really should have a full overhaul and cleaning. It should at least have a degreasing and cleaned. That is a lot of grime from only a few hundred miles.
Unicrown fork- 86 or later?
Horizontal dropouts- 80s.
ETA- the seat cluster looks 80s as I do know an early 90s Allez used seat stay plugs for at least one year and I would assume more.
Last edited by mstateglfr; 11-16-21 at 08:49 AM.
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One of the simplest ways is to look at the two letter (Y/M) date code on the inside of all Shimano crank arms. It is a two letter code inside of a circle. 1988 is M and 1991 is P. Second letter is the month with January being A and December L. That should date the manufacturing within a couple of months since the crank would have been made shortly before the bike was assembled.
#11
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One of the simplest ways is to look at the two letter (Y/M) date code on the inside of all Shimano crank arms. It is a two letter code inside of a circle. 1988 is M and 1991 is P. Second letter is the month with January being A and December L. That should date the manufacturing within a couple of months since the crank would have been made shortly before the bike was assembled.
#12
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I’m guessing it is a 1988. The horizontal dropouts would seem to make it earlier, but I’ve seen pics of ‘87 and ‘88 Allez with them.
Unicrown fork the same color gives it away.
John
Unicrown fork the same color gives it away.
John
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#14
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I'd be a little worried about the shift cable running over the bottom bracket. Many old bikes did that and it's fine many times. However that picture is looking a little like my 1991 Paramount that I use to have that also just ran bare cables without a guide over the BB shell. The front DR cable in that picture looks to be cutting into the BB. That might start to if it's not already make the cable too hard for the shifter to pull and wear out or break the shifter mechanism in the STI.
When I found mine doing that I had a scrap piece of Delrin in the shop and the tools to fashion a cable guide that worked very well for several years. However I eventually replaced it with this which for the money makes me spending so much time to make my own sort of ridiculous.
https://www.universalcycles.com/sear...et+cable+guide
I can't really tell if that will work on yours but there are other types. You'll have to drill a hole in the BB shell to screw it on, so be careful not to push so hard on the drill that you let the drill plunge when it cuts through the shell and damage the BB or spindle inside.
When I found mine doing that I had a scrap piece of Delrin in the shop and the tools to fashion a cable guide that worked very well for several years. However I eventually replaced it with this which for the money makes me spending so much time to make my own sort of ridiculous.
https://www.universalcycles.com/sear...et+cable+guide
I can't really tell if that will work on yours but there are other types. You'll have to drill a hole in the BB shell to screw it on, so be careful not to push so hard on the drill that you let the drill plunge when it cuts through the shell and damage the BB or spindle inside.
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#16
L-man
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I'd be a little worried about the shift cable running over the bottom bracket. Many old bikes did that and it's fine many times. However that picture is looking a little like my 1991 Paramount that I use to have that also just ran bare cables without a guide over the BB shell. The front DR cable in that picture looks to be cutting into the BB. That might start to if it's not already make the cable too hard for the shifter to pull and wear out or break the shifter mechanism in the STI.
When I found mine doing that I had a scrap piece of Delrin in the shop and the tools to fashion a cable guide that worked very well for several years. However I eventually replaced it with this which for the money makes me spending so much time to make my own sort of ridiculous.
https://www.universalcycles.com/sear...et+cable+guide
I can't really tell if that will work on yours but there are other types. You'll have to drill a hole in the BB shell to screw it on, so be careful not to push so hard on the drill that you let the drill plunge when it cuts through the shell and damage the BB or spindle inside.
When I found mine doing that I had a scrap piece of Delrin in the shop and the tools to fashion a cable guide that worked very well for several years. However I eventually replaced it with this which for the money makes me spending so much time to make my own sort of ridiculous.
https://www.universalcycles.com/sear...et+cable+guide
I can't really tell if that will work on yours but there are other types. You'll have to drill a hole in the BB shell to screw it on, so be careful not to push so hard on the drill that you let the drill plunge when it cuts through the shell and damage the BB or spindle inside.
#17
Senior Member
I've a bike , carbon fiber but it's got cable showing like in this picture ,, so I looked harder and saw the holes for the cable to pass through looks like whoever built the bike just bypassed that step and didn't thread the cable through the holes , so there may be a hole there ....?
#18
Senior Member
I'd be a little worried about the shift cable running over the bottom bracket. Many old bikes did that and it's fine many times. However that picture is looking a little like my 1991 Paramount that I use to have that also just ran bare cables without a guide over the BB shell. The front DR cable in that picture looks to be cutting into the BB. That might start to if it's not already make the cable too hard for the shifter to pull and wear out or break the shifter mechanism in the STI.
When I found mine doing that I had a scrap piece of Delrin in the shop and the tools to fashion a cable guide that worked very well for several years. However I eventually replaced it with this which for the money makes me spending so much time to make my own sort of ridiculous.
https://www.universalcycles.com/sear...et+cable+guide
I can't really tell if that will work on yours but there are other types. You'll have to drill a hole in the BB shell to screw it on, so be careful not to push so hard on the drill that you let the drill plunge when it cuts through the shell and damage the BB or spindle inside.
When I found mine doing that I had a scrap piece of Delrin in the shop and the tools to fashion a cable guide that worked very well for several years. However I eventually replaced it with this which for the money makes me spending so much time to make my own sort of ridiculous.
https://www.universalcycles.com/sear...et+cable+guide
I can't really tell if that will work on yours but there are other types. You'll have to drill a hole in the BB shell to screw it on, so be careful not to push so hard on the drill that you let the drill plunge when it cuts through the shell and damage the BB or spindle inside.
I highly suggest removing the bottom bracket before drilling, then clear the fragments out before reassembly.
#19
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And if this is a cartridge BB then none of the swarf from the drilling can even get in. Though without looking at the pic again, I think that looked like cup and cone. Still wouldn't bother me though. The swarf comes up from the hole being drilled and if used with a vacuum cleaner while drilling and they don't let the drill plunge when they break through the shell, then little to no chips will get in.
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#20
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#21
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On 2nd thought, I wouldn't add the plastic cable guide, there are already welded on ones. Just grease the area or use a cable sheath (very thin housing) to assist with the guides already there.
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#22
Clark W. Griswold
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The RD and FD are late 80s early 90s. Wonky half STI shifting indicates it was either partially updated to STI rear shifting or partially downgraded due to component breaking. The crankset is high quality.
Its a mish-mash of really nice drivetrain components.
And as another poster said- that thing has been ridden a lot more than a few hundred miles. It really should have a full overhaul and cleaning. It should at least have a degreasing and cleaned. That is a lot of grime from only a few hundred miles.
Unicrown fork- 86 or later?
Horizontal dropouts- 80s.
ETA- the seat cluster looks 80s as I do know an early 90s Allez used seat stay plugs for at least one year and I would assume more.
Its a mish-mash of really nice drivetrain components.
And as another poster said- that thing has been ridden a lot more than a few hundred miles. It really should have a full overhaul and cleaning. It should at least have a degreasing and cleaned. That is a lot of grime from only a few hundred miles.
Unicrown fork- 86 or later?
Horizontal dropouts- 80s.
ETA- the seat cluster looks 80s as I do know an early 90s Allez used seat stay plugs for at least one year and I would assume more.
I do agree it should be overhauled the bike could use some love, it has great parts Tricolor and 7400 on a decent frame so hopefully it can be made relatively new again,
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#23
L-man
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Keep in mind Lance Armstrong and other racers of the era did sometimes use STI on the right and downtube for the left to save weight when getting to the UCI minimum was a little harder. Unlikely that Specialized did that on a production bike but the bike could have been used in competition?
I do agree it should be overhauled the bike could use some love, it has great parts Tricolor and 7400 on a decent frame so hopefully it can be made relatively new again,
I do agree it should be overhauled the bike could use some love, it has great parts Tricolor and 7400 on a decent frame so hopefully it can be made relatively new again,
I Want to be able to do a century ride/100 miles...
My heavy co-op cry 1.3 although comfortable, is a beast and I can only average 13 mph on 30 - to - 65 mile rides.
THis bike is so light and fast to me/ green newbie, I'm hoping that it has good bones to last with proper care and maintenance ! If you can't tell I'm very excited for the journey. Again thank you for words that give me hope.
Wife has said this is it for a long while....lol.
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#24
Clark W. Griswold
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thank you for encouraging words....got one adopted daughter in first year of college, another in 10th grade, all on a technicians salary....( There is no extra money around here, lol!), I have to make the most of this bike.
I Want to be able to do a century ride/100 miles...
My heavy co-op cry 1.3 although comfortable, is a beast and I can only average 13 mph on 30 - to - 65 mile rides.
THis bike is so light and fast to me/ green newbie, I'm hoping that it has good bones to last with proper care and maintenance ! If you can't tell I'm very excited for the journey. Again thank you for words that give me hope.
Wife has said this is it for a long while....lol.
I Want to be able to do a century ride/100 miles...
My heavy co-op cry 1.3 although comfortable, is a beast and I can only average 13 mph on 30 - to - 65 mile rides.
THis bike is so light and fast to me/ green newbie, I'm hoping that it has good bones to last with proper care and maintenance ! If you can't tell I'm very excited for the journey. Again thank you for words that give me hope.
Wife has said this is it for a long while....lol.
Take good care of that bike, clean it and regrease it and get it ready to roll. Once you get the fit dialed in you can easily ride that bike long distances and have a good time doing so.
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