Your opinions on ebike transition to road bike
#1
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Your opinions on ebike transition to road bike
Greetings folks.
About 6 weeks ago it bought a size large Giant Roam E. I’m new to biking , 61, overweight with knee replacements in the future. I absolutely love the bike, losing weight like crazy and have zero knee issues going out for 40-50 km loops.
When it was new, I have found being a 50 pound bike it was necessary to always keep it in AUTO mode.
Now I have it on Eco, level one and find it easier to pedal each outing!
I want to eventually transition to a real bike and bought a size ML carbon Defy entry level Endurance bike. I opted for clipless MTB pedals and better rubber, (28mm Continental GP5000 tubeless).
Can you people speculate on how you think I’ll make out on small trips as far as fatigue and body adjustments would be etc? I’m worried that a 61 year old guy will find the new drop bar bike daunting and go back to the Cheater bike.
I pick it up after Christmas.
Thanks for any n all tips…..
About 6 weeks ago it bought a size large Giant Roam E. I’m new to biking , 61, overweight with knee replacements in the future. I absolutely love the bike, losing weight like crazy and have zero knee issues going out for 40-50 km loops.
When it was new, I have found being a 50 pound bike it was necessary to always keep it in AUTO mode.
Now I have it on Eco, level one and find it easier to pedal each outing!
I want to eventually transition to a real bike and bought a size ML carbon Defy entry level Endurance bike. I opted for clipless MTB pedals and better rubber, (28mm Continental GP5000 tubeless).
Can you people speculate on how you think I’ll make out on small trips as far as fatigue and body adjustments would be etc? I’m worried that a 61 year old guy will find the new drop bar bike daunting and go back to the Cheater bike.
I pick it up after Christmas.
Thanks for any n all tips…..
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#2
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If you have easy enough gears and maintain the same power output, there will be almost no difference. but because you're used to ebike speeds, you'll probably destroy yourself on your first few rides.
I wouldn't worry about it. Enjoy the ride. Feel the thrill of pushing with your own power and nothing else.
I wouldn't worry about it. Enjoy the ride. Feel the thrill of pushing with your own power and nothing else.
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#3
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I predict you will be astonished and disappointed by the additional effort required. Even if you are only getting a couple of hundred watts out of the ebike, that's probably double what you'll put out using your own power. Maybe you'll enjoy it, maybe not. Let us know how it turns out.
#4
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About 6 weeks ago it bought a size large Giant Roam E. I’m new to biking ...
I want to eventually transition to a real bike and bought a size ML carbon Defy entry level Endurance bike. I opted for clipless MTB pedals ...
Can you people speculate on how you think I’ll make out on small trips as far as fatigue and body adjustments would be etc?
I want to eventually transition to a real bike and bought a size ML carbon Defy entry level Endurance bike. I opted for clipless MTB pedals ...
Can you people speculate on how you think I’ll make out on small trips as far as fatigue and body adjustments would be etc?
In addition to your fitness it also depends how well the new bike fits you; a bike fit will likely be beneficial.
No urgent need to transition to clipless pedals until you are really comfortable with your new bike.
#6
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I predict you will be astonished and disappointed by the additional effort required. Even if you are only getting a couple of hundred watts out of the ebike, that's probably double what you'll put out using your own power. Maybe you'll enjoy it, maybe not. Let us know how it turns out.
I’m hoping a thirty pound less bike won’t be that daunting especially when you look at even the obvious differences in the wheels and tires alone.
#7
Junior Member
If you haven't ridden with clipless pedals before, I would recommend starting with flat pedals on your new bike. You'll have enough to think about as you get used to the feel of handling of the bike. Make adjustments and get comfy on the bike before you transition to clipless.
#8
Senior Member
You will be slower but just get used to it.
I ride with someone who has a normal road bike and a Trek Domane E bike.
Even when ridden on the lowest power assist setting he is a lot faster than when on a "normal" bike.
I ride with someone who has a normal road bike and a Trek Domane E bike.
Even when ridden on the lowest power assist setting he is a lot faster than when on a "normal" bike.
#9
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i underwent a similar journey, although my issues are heart related rather than weight and joints.
in eco mode, the giant is basically matching your output - i.e. double the total power. you put in 150w, it puts in 150w, 300w total. that’s a very big difference for hills and at higher speeds, so be ready to ride much slower - and that’s totally fine !
what i did was carefully track my rides in elevation, distance, and average speed. over time i started turning the assist off completely for more and more “types” or rides or segments, starting of course with downhill and flats, and then whole rides which didn’t have any climbs over 3 or 4 %, and then 6 or 8%, up
to certain distances, etc. i now only use the motor for climbs over 10% or climbs over 6% on rides longer than 50 miles, which is to say, very rarely! i would strongly recommend using whatever tool giant has to track the power usage of your rides so you have a clear idea how much the eBike is helping.
6 weeks isn’t that long, so you’re still on the steep part of the learning curve! take it easy, do the same or similar rides a few times before you decide to take the non-e bike on a big outing with big hills. as a heavier guy used to an eBike, climbing will absolutely be a challenge. it looks like your new bike has a lowest gear of 34 in front and 34 in back, which i’d guess will be good up to relatively shallow grades. remember that you’ll have half as much power at your disposal!
in eco mode, the giant is basically matching your output - i.e. double the total power. you put in 150w, it puts in 150w, 300w total. that’s a very big difference for hills and at higher speeds, so be ready to ride much slower - and that’s totally fine !
what i did was carefully track my rides in elevation, distance, and average speed. over time i started turning the assist off completely for more and more “types” or rides or segments, starting of course with downhill and flats, and then whole rides which didn’t have any climbs over 3 or 4 %, and then 6 or 8%, up
to certain distances, etc. i now only use the motor for climbs over 10% or climbs over 6% on rides longer than 50 miles, which is to say, very rarely! i would strongly recommend using whatever tool giant has to track the power usage of your rides so you have a clear idea how much the eBike is helping.
6 weeks isn’t that long, so you’re still on the steep part of the learning curve! take it easy, do the same or similar rides a few times before you decide to take the non-e bike on a big outing with big hills. as a heavier guy used to an eBike, climbing will absolutely be a challenge. it looks like your new bike has a lowest gear of 34 in front and 34 in back, which i’d guess will be good up to relatively shallow grades. remember that you’ll have half as much power at your disposal!
Last edited by mschwett; 11-28-21 at 10:12 PM.
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#11
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Even if it's a very relaxed fit drop bar road bike, you might feel it odd to be leaning slightly head first as you go down the road. How you'll perceive that oddness is the big question.
Some will get used to it and might want to go lower still. Others will be too uneasy with it and will immediately try to make their bike fit like their previous bike by adding extenders and stuff to raise the bars up high.
So if the position feels odd to you, just realize it's a new position and you need time to get use to it.
Some will get used to it and might want to go lower still. Others will be too uneasy with it and will immediately try to make their bike fit like their previous bike by adding extenders and stuff to raise the bars up high.
So if the position feels odd to you, just realize it's a new position and you need time to get use to it.
#12
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The weight of an e-bike isn't an issue because of the motor. As has been mentioned if you put out the same power on a regular bike you will be slower, even if that bike is lighter.
The weight is a factor when climbing or accelerating. When cruising along on flat ground the weight doesn't make as much difference. Having ridden 1000s of miles on a 60 pound touring bike, I have experience with this.
If you are totally comfortable on your e-bike with flat bars, you can try to set up your Defy with a similar position so the top of the handlebar is where your flat bar is now. From there you can start using the hoods and the drops as much as you want. Drop bars come in many different shapes and sizes so you can swap them if need be.
The weight is a factor when climbing or accelerating. When cruising along on flat ground the weight doesn't make as much difference. Having ridden 1000s of miles on a 60 pound touring bike, I have experience with this.
If you are totally comfortable on your e-bike with flat bars, you can try to set up your Defy with a similar position so the top of the handlebar is where your flat bar is now. From there you can start using the hoods and the drops as much as you want. Drop bars come in many different shapes and sizes so you can swap them if need be.
#13
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Looking at the geometry charts for the 2 bikes he mentioned, they aren't as different as you might think. I think you could replicate the position of the Roam onto the Defy without any weird contraptions, if you so choose.
#14
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I'd go after this new bike like it was a whole new adventure. A good fit from a pro would be very worthwhile. I applaud going clip-less, I've been a fan of foot retention (and used it on all my bikes) over 50 years. But - I second the poster above - start with flat pedals. Otherwise too much information, too much learning all at once. And one little "oops" and you have just slammed your 61 year old body on the pavement. When you are used to the handlebars, the much lighter steering, shifting is beginning to come naturally - then is the time to master to master those pedals.
Congrats! I'll see you out on the road. (I forgot to see if you show your location before I hit QUOTE so that might be figuratively.)
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#15
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I'm not so sure this is the best approach. I'm guessing the work the shop that sold you the Roam did to fit it to you was less that they would spend to get a regular bike to fit you simply because, with that big source of power, your output (and your comfort putting out that much) is less important.
I'd go after this new bike like it was a whole new adventure. A good fit from a pro would be very worthwhile. I applaud going clip-less, I've been a fan of foot retention (and used it on all my bikes) over 50 years. But - I second the poster above - start with flat pedals. Otherwise too much information, too much learning all at once. And one little "oops" and you have just slammed your 61 year old body on the pavement. When you are used to the handlebars, the much lighter steering, shifting is beginning to come naturally - then is the time to master to master those pedals.
Congrats! I'll see you out on the road. (I forgot to see if you show your location before I hit QUOTE so that might be figuratively.)
I'd go after this new bike like it was a whole new adventure. A good fit from a pro would be very worthwhile. I applaud going clip-less, I've been a fan of foot retention (and used it on all my bikes) over 50 years. But - I second the poster above - start with flat pedals. Otherwise too much information, too much learning all at once. And one little "oops" and you have just slammed your 61 year old body on the pavement. When you are used to the handlebars, the much lighter steering, shifting is beginning to come naturally - then is the time to master to master those pedals.
Congrats! I'll see you out on the road. (I forgot to see if you show your location before I hit QUOTE so that might be figuratively.)
I have a local friend who has two road bikes, and his very fit wife has so many risers and an angled stem, the flat part of the drops are literally above the seat. It might be comfy but I question the whole setup as being effective in the headwinds now.
I have taken peoples advice and robbed flat pedals off my sons Trance for the time being.
I’ll update my location on my profile to Vancouver Island, B.C.
I have a good friend in SE Portland!
#16
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I'm not so sure this is the best approach. I'm guessing the work the shop that sold you the Roam did to fit it to you was less that they would spend to get a regular bike to fit you simply because, with that big source of power, your output (and your comfort putting out that much) is less important
Some time with a good fitter might be beneficial, however.
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#17
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The local bike shop just sold me the Roam and I just lowered the seat 1/4”. I asked for a stem riser and some spacers to bring the bars up. From time to time I get numbness in the hands, more than I’d like. That’s why I’m hoping it won’t be any worse with all the weight now on the drop bar bike.
#18
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Numbness may also be due to maintaining a death grip on bars, and may improve with the adoption of a more relaxed grip as one gets more used to the bike and its speed, which likely takes more than 6 weeks for someone "new to biking".
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#19
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How much weight have you lost? I must be doing something wrong because any weight I might lose in six weeks could barely be noticed. Obviously I need an e-bike.
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I on the other hand, started on road bikes, lost 60 lbs, and I now have an ebike because my knees are getting sore (due to very aggressive out-of-the-saddle sprint training). And the ebike allows me to ride more frequently, since I have substantial hills to deal with that can wear out my knees for days, and the ebike reduces the soreness, allowing me to ride more frequently.
#22
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I have problems with my hands going numb on flat bar bikes but don't have any issues with drop bars. I suspect the different orientation of the hands makes all the difference.
Keeping your elbows bent can also help as it helps you avoid putting weight on your hands.
Keeping your elbows bent can also help as it helps you avoid putting weight on your hands.
#23
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On a flat bar bike, the angle of the brake lever to the handlebar and/or the rider's desire to prop himself or herself on the handlebar to support part of his or her weight both lead to bent wrists and numb hands.
#24
Most important is to learn to use the full gear range. With a road bike I like that when I am first starting up a steep hill that I can switch to the inner front chainring and be in a much lower gear and do so without much thought. I will even coast into the hill and start pedaling the lower gear when my momentum has slowed down as I am not in a race and an additional 5 seconds is not important.
Seat height is also important and many riders, off all ages, are riding with the seat too low. Take whatever tool you need to adjust the seat height and after 15 minutes of warmup put the seat a little bit higher than where it would usually be and get a feel for how much leg extension is happening. Then slowly, 1/4 inch at a time lower the seat until the leg extension is not too great. Too low a seat and your quads will be doing too much of the work.
Having someone to ride behind you also helps as they can see what is happening with regard to your butt and leg extension when riding.
Seat height is also important and many riders, off all ages, are riding with the seat too low. Take whatever tool you need to adjust the seat height and after 15 minutes of warmup put the seat a little bit higher than where it would usually be and get a feel for how much leg extension is happening. Then slowly, 1/4 inch at a time lower the seat until the leg extension is not too great. Too low a seat and your quads will be doing too much of the work.
Having someone to ride behind you also helps as they can see what is happening with regard to your butt and leg extension when riding.
#25
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Usually agreed, but not so sure in this case given OP's reference to lowering seat and raising handlebars on an e-bike, both of which shifts the weight balance rearward.
Numbness may also be due to maintaining a death grip on bars, and may improve with the adoption of a more relaxed grip as one gets more used to the bike and its speed, which likely takes more than 6 weeks for someone "new to biking".
Numbness may also be due to maintaining a death grip on bars, and may improve with the adoption of a more relaxed grip as one gets more used to the bike and its speed, which likely takes more than 6 weeks for someone "new to biking".
Death grip is probably a big factor, because on the ride the numbness comes and goes.
Locally, they want 160-180 for a pro bike fitting. I’ve YouTube the subject to death and I don’t think it is real rocket science to do yourself. Seat height, seat fore/aft, stem length and angle plus spacers, handlebar rotation, etc are the main things. Then play with feet positioning in the clips.
I’m a cheapo and would like to try playing with the Defy for a few hundred miles on my own.