Fitting winter tires under fenders
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Fitting winter tires under fenders
I have a bike with 30 - 622 or 700 X 30C tires on it. The bike has fenders that sit close to the tires.
The problem is, that winter tires seem to have some more geometry on them and "expand" a bit more due to the grooves, etc. on the tire itself, compared to slicks, at least. This might make them touch the inside of the fenders.
I was told that I should use "28 inch tires on it instead", so that the tires don't touch the inside of the fenders. However, this doesn't make any sense to me. 28 inches, for what?
As far as I understand it:
30 - 622 means 30 mm tire width, 622 mm inner tire diameter.
700 X 30C means 700 mm tire diameter, 30 mm tire width, "C" is the width of the rim on a scale from A to D.
So if anything, I should perhaps reduce the width of the tire somewhat, and hope that it then has a slightly lower outermost diameter?
What should I go for? Would 28 mm seem like a good bet?
The problem is, that winter tires seem to have some more geometry on them and "expand" a bit more due to the grooves, etc. on the tire itself, compared to slicks, at least. This might make them touch the inside of the fenders.
I was told that I should use "28 inch tires on it instead", so that the tires don't touch the inside of the fenders. However, this doesn't make any sense to me. 28 inches, for what?
As far as I understand it:
30 - 622 means 30 mm tire width, 622 mm inner tire diameter.
700 X 30C means 700 mm tire diameter, 30 mm tire width, "C" is the width of the rim on a scale from A to D.
So if anything, I should perhaps reduce the width of the tire somewhat, and hope that it then has a slightly lower outermost diameter?
What should I go for? Would 28 mm seem like a good bet?
#2
Guest
Can you adjust the fenders to give you more clearance? If not, try some 28s. Several winter tires are available in that size.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,341
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Liked 4,188 Times
in
2,471 Posts
the "28" is likely a tire width reference. Thus the suggestion of a narrower tire to gain fender/tire gap. Of course a narrower tire in wintery conditions is not what most here would prefer, generally a wider tire with a thicker/deeper tread is wanted.
My opinion is that you have now realized some of "the cost" of the choice of bike you bought. Can the bike better handle changing needs and conditions. Bike with minimal clearances (and a lot of other limiting or lacking aspects) are not as accommodating in future situations. Andy
My opinion is that you have now realized some of "the cost" of the choice of bike you bought. Can the bike better handle changing needs and conditions. Bike with minimal clearances (and a lot of other limiting or lacking aspects) are not as accommodating in future situations. Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
Likes For Andrew R Stewart:
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Likes: 0
Liked 1,102 Times
in
747 Posts
30-622 and 700 x 30C are two ways of describing exactly the same thing. 700c is an older name for what is defined as an ISO 622 rim size but the 700c nomenclature still persists. You were probably not told to get a "28-inch tire" but a 28mm wide tire, aka 28-622 or 700x28c. As Andy described the narrower and slightly smaller diameter 28mm tire will (maybe) give you a little more fender clearance.
#8
working on my sandal tan
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CID
Posts: 22,670
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
Liked 2,600 Times
in
1,593 Posts
I have a bike with 30 - 622 or 700 X 30C tires on it. The bike has fenders that sit close to the tires.
The problem is, that winter tires seem to have some more geometry on them and "expand" a bit more due to the grooves, etc. on the tire itself, compared to slicks, at least. This might make them touch the inside of the fenders.
I was told that I should use "28 inch tires on it instead", so that the tires don't touch the inside of the fenders. However, this doesn't make any sense to me. 28 inches, for what?
As far as I understand it:
30 - 622 means 30 mm tire width, 622 mm inner tire diameter.
700 X 30C means 700 mm tire diameter, 30 mm tire width, "C" is the width of the rim on a scale from A to D.
So if anything, I should perhaps reduce the width of the tire somewhat, and hope that it then has a slightly lower outermost diameter?
What should I go for? Would 28 mm seem like a good bet?
The problem is, that winter tires seem to have some more geometry on them and "expand" a bit more due to the grooves, etc. on the tire itself, compared to slicks, at least. This might make them touch the inside of the fenders.
I was told that I should use "28 inch tires on it instead", so that the tires don't touch the inside of the fenders. However, this doesn't make any sense to me. 28 inches, for what?
As far as I understand it:
30 - 622 means 30 mm tire width, 622 mm inner tire diameter.
700 X 30C means 700 mm tire diameter, 30 mm tire width, "C" is the width of the rim on a scale from A to D.
So if anything, I should perhaps reduce the width of the tire somewhat, and hope that it then has a slightly lower outermost diameter?
What should I go for? Would 28 mm seem like a good bet?
Likes For ThermionicScott:
#9
Senior Member
__________________
#10
Senior Member
I hope this dude realizes this, as I commute daily in snow and slush and crap and a lot of stuff builds up on the tire. I used to use a 2.5 inch mtb knobby for winter commuting before I got studded tires, and the clearance was close with the suspension fork bridge thing, and sure enough, snow and ice and road grit would build up and wore away some of the fork bridge. No big deal as it was a small amount and the bike and fork are ancient, but still, it does happen, so be aware.
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 13,325
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
Liked 4,333 Times
in
2,789 Posts
Or - get wide fenders that don't fit your bike, then carve them to fit. The Planet Bike fenders carve very nicely. (I don't like them for other reasons.) SKS and other hard plastic fenders need round inside corners to the cutouts so cracks don't start. Fenders can be cut at the brakes and River City ReacAround Fender Brackets used.
https://www.rivercitybicycles.com/pr.../?startrow=30h
Plastic fenders are pretty flexible when it comes to diameter so stretching them to fit a large tire usually isn't difficult - if you can get around the frame limitations. With those brackets and a willingness to cut where needed and use a little creativity, most bikes can be fendered up nicely.
https://www.rivercitybicycles.com/pr.../?startrow=30h
Plastic fenders are pretty flexible when it comes to diameter so stretching them to fit a large tire usually isn't difficult - if you can get around the frame limitations. With those brackets and a willingness to cut where needed and use a little creativity, most bikes can be fendered up nicely.