Looks like another trip to the tool store?
#1
Junior Member
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Looks like another trip to the tool store?
I am getting quite a collection of freehub/freewheel tools but this is a new one on me. The bearing cover says Shimano 6D (or 60). I took apart a similar hub last week from a Nishiki with the ball bearings on the outside like this one, but that cassette just lifted off. This one does not. Not a great picture, but the inner portion that the bearings ride on on the DS has 2 notches in it. To date this, it is on a fully chromed Schwinn Super Letour 12.2, so I am thinking 1976-1979 or so. What tools and how to disassemble?
#2
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You have a Shimano Uniglide there. The smallest cog is threaded while the others are splined. It’s an early version of splined freehubs that is obsolete. You can’t get cogs for it. Sheldon Brown suggested replacing the body with a Hyperglide body or using Hyperglide cogs that are modified to slide onto the body and keeping the threaded outer cog.
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#3
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You have a Shimano Uniglide there. The smallest cog is threaded while the others are splined. It’s an early version of splined freehubs that is obsolete. You can’t get cogs for it. Sheldon Brown suggested replacing the body with a Hyperglide body or using Hyperglide cogs that are modified to slide onto the body and keeping the threaded outer cog.
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Agree, that is a Uniglide freehub. The smallest sprocket is threaded, and hold the rest in place. You use two chain whips to remove the threaded sprocket: one on the threaded sprocket, the other on a larger sprocket to prevent the cluster from rotating when you unthread the small sprocket. Uniglide splined sprockets are not longer produced, but modern Hyperglide sprockets can be modified to fit. You will need to keep the smallest, threaded sprocket to secure the cluster. Be certain that this sprocket is not too worn, or be prepared to replace it (good luck!) or simply avoid using that gear.
N.B. no, there's no definitive way of judging wear from your photograph. If a new chain skips under load on the sprocket, it is too worn.
N.B. no, there's no definitive way of judging wear from your photograph. If a new chain skips under load on the sprocket, it is too worn.
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Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
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Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
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Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#6
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All but the thread on cog can be flipped and use the other side.
Just like your underwear.
Just like your underwear.
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You might get some more life out of the cogs if you flip them inside out. It worked for me and eliminated chain skip when I installed a new chain.
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You have a Shimano Uniglide there. The smallest cog is threaded while the others are splined. It’s an early version of splined freehubs that is obsolete. You can’t get cogs for it. Sheldon Brown suggested replacing the body with a Hyperglide body or using Hyperglide cogs that are modified to slide onto the body and keeping the threaded outer cog.
Search: "Uniglide sprockets"
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#10
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I’ll stand by my statement that it’s impossible to judge wear on a cassette by eye.
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Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
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Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
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Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
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i grew up with a machinist father. i have tape measures built in to my eyes... a blessing and curse at the same time... everything has "Stanley" printed over it....
Last edited by maddog34; 04-05-23 at 02:00 PM.
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#14
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I got into this a little more today. I was able to disassemble using my chain wrench, and an old piece of chain with vise-grips for the hold back. I put everthing in order with a zip tie and have it in the ultrasonic cleaner. Looks like there had been some gold paint on the parts, so this will all come off.
I tried to get the cogs apart and then notice some insanely small bolts holding the cogs together. Are these installed just for assembly purposes, do they need to go back if I have to turn the cogs around?
My plan right now is to reinstall this as is (after it is cleaned). I will put a new chain on and use that as a test for cog wear. If I have any issues, I will flip the cogs. This will be easy now that I know how to get it apart, thanks to you guys.
I tried to get the cogs apart and then notice some insanely small bolts holding the cogs together. Are these installed just for assembly purposes, do they need to go back if I have to turn the cogs around?
My plan right now is to reinstall this as is (after it is cleaned). I will put a new chain on and use that as a test for cog wear. If I have any issues, I will flip the cogs. This will be easy now that I know how to get it apart, thanks to you guys.
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#15
Really Old Senior Member
I'd put my best foot forward re: cog wear. It took "how many years" to get the wear that's on them?
Just visually inspect each cog and any wear should be apparent when comparing the profile of a symmetric tooth.
Your NEW chain will appreciate the least worn profile.
Just visually inspect each cog and any wear should be apparent when comparing the profile of a symmetric tooth.
Your NEW chain will appreciate the least worn profile.
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I got into this a little more today. I was able to disassemble using my chain wrench, and an old piece of chain with vise-grips for the hold back. I put everthing in order with a zip tie and have it in the ultrasonic cleaner. Looks like there had been some gold paint on the parts, so this will all come off.
I tried to get the cogs apart and then notice some insanely small bolts holding the cogs together. Are these installed just for assembly purposes, do they need to go back if I have to turn the cogs around?
My plan right now is to reinstall this as is (after it is cleaned). I will put a new chain on and use that as a test for cog wear. If I have any issues, I will flip the cogs. This will be easy now that I know how to get it apart, thanks to you guys.
I tried to get the cogs apart and then notice some insanely small bolts holding the cogs together. Are these installed just for assembly purposes, do they need to go back if I have to turn the cogs around?
My plan right now is to reinstall this as is (after it is cleaned). I will put a new chain on and use that as a test for cog wear. If I have any issues, I will flip the cogs. This will be easy now that I know how to get it apart, thanks to you guys.
the "gold paint" is most likely Cadmium Plating to slow corrosion/rust. Is it shiny and a bit greenish?.. cadmium... or is it "glittery"?.. Paint.
#17
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It's acting like paint to me. I have simple green and vinegar in the ultrasonic cleaner and it is 2/3 off already, just wipes off.
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