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Looks like another trip to the tool store?

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Old 04-04-23, 02:01 PM
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louky
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Looks like another trip to the tool store?

I am getting quite a collection of freehub/freewheel tools but this is a new one on me. The bearing cover says Shimano 6D (or 60). I took apart a similar hub last week from a Nishiki with the ball bearings on the outside like this one, but that cassette just lifted off. This one does not. Not a great picture, but the inner portion that the bearings ride on on the DS has 2 notches in it. To date this, it is on a fully chromed Schwinn Super Letour 12.2, so I am thinking 1976-1979 or so. What tools and how to disassemble?
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Old 04-04-23, 02:30 PM
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You have a Shimano Uniglide there. The smallest cog is threaded while the others are splined. It’s an early version of splined freehubs that is obsolete. You can’t get cogs for it. Sheldon Brown suggested replacing the body with a Hyperglide body or using Hyperglide cogs that are modified to slide onto the body and keeping the threaded outer cog.
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Old 04-04-23, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
You have a Shimano Uniglide there. The smallest cog is threaded while the others are splined. It’s an early version of splined freehubs that is obsolete. You can’t get cogs for it. Sheldon Brown suggested replacing the body with a Hyperglide body or using Hyperglide cogs that are modified to slide onto the body and keeping the threaded outer cog.
Thanks for the prompt reply. Can you tell from the pic how worn the cogs are?
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Old 04-04-23, 03:16 PM
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Agree, that is a Uniglide freehub. The smallest sprocket is threaded, and hold the rest in place. You use two chain whips to remove the threaded sprocket: one on the threaded sprocket, the other on a larger sprocket to prevent the cluster from rotating when you unthread the small sprocket. Uniglide splined sprockets are not longer produced, but modern Hyperglide sprockets can be modified to fit. You will need to keep the smallest, threaded sprocket to secure the cluster. Be certain that this sprocket is not too worn, or be prepared to replace it (good luck!) or simply avoid using that gear.

N.B. no, there's no definitive way of judging wear from your photograph. If a new chain skips under load on the sprocket, it is too worn.
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Old 04-04-23, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by louky
Thanks for the prompt reply. Can you tell from the pic how worn the cogs are?
I agree with JohnDThompson that there is no way to tell from a photo if the cog is worn. Even in real life it is impossible to tell by visual inspection. You can use a Rohloff cog checker but it’s an expensive tool that isn’t all that useful for the cost.
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Old 04-04-23, 06:52 PM
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All but the thread on cog can be flipped and use the other side.
Just like your underwear.
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Old 04-04-23, 06:54 PM
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You might get some more life out of the cogs if you flip them inside out. It worked for me and eliminated chain skip when I installed a new chain.
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Old 04-04-23, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
You have a Shimano Uniglide there. The smallest cog is threaded while the others are splined. It’s an early version of splined freehubs that is obsolete. You can’t get cogs for it. Sheldon Brown suggested replacing the body with a Hyperglide body or using Hyperglide cogs that are modified to slide onto the body and keeping the threaded outer cog.
a quick search on Ebay says that Yes, one Can get cogs for uniglide.. but they ain't cheap! Luckily it looks like the ones on that wheel aren't in bad shape, other than rust...

Search: "Uniglide sprockets"
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Old 04-04-23, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun
All but the thread on cog can be flipped and use the other side.
Just like your underwear.
Originally Posted by Bici Veloce
You might get some more life out of the cogs if you flip them inside out. It worked for me and eliminated chain skip when I installed a new chain.
Sorry...I think I was typing while you were posting.
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Old 04-04-23, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Bici Veloce
Sorry...I think I was typing while you were posting.
No apology necessary. It's happened to me more than once.
I just saw it 2 minutes sooner.
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Old 04-04-23, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by maddog34
a quick search on Ebay says that Yes, one Can get cogs for uniglide.. but they ain't cheap! Luckily it looks like the ones on that wheel aren't in bad shape, other than rust...

Search: "Uniglide sprockets"
Yea but ouch! By “not being able to get them”, I meant easily and/or there is only a limited supply. I’m not sure I would pay $200+ for wear item.

I’ll stand by my statement that it’s impossible to judge wear on a cassette by eye.
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Old 04-05-23, 08:51 AM
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Modifying HG cogs is a matter of mere moments.
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Old 04-05-23, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
Yea but ouch! By “not being able to get them”, I meant easily and/or there is only a limited supply. I’m not sure I would pay $200+ for wear item.

I’ll stand by my statement that it’s impossible to judge wear on a cassette by eye.
well, you might try removing them there fancy dark goggles...

i grew up with a machinist father. i have tape measures built in to my eyes... a blessing and curse at the same time... everything has "Stanley" printed over it....

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Old 04-05-23, 02:02 PM
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I got into this a little more today. I was able to disassemble using my chain wrench, and an old piece of chain with vise-grips for the hold back. I put everthing in order with a zip tie and have it in the ultrasonic cleaner. Looks like there had been some gold paint on the parts, so this will all come off.

I tried to get the cogs apart and then notice some insanely small bolts holding the cogs together. Are these installed just for assembly purposes, do they need to go back if I have to turn the cogs around?

My plan right now is to reinstall this as is (after it is cleaned). I will put a new chain on and use that as a test for cog wear. If I have any issues, I will flip the cogs. This will be easy now that I know how to get it apart, thanks to you guys.
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Old 04-05-23, 02:14 PM
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I'd put my best foot forward re: cog wear. It took "how many years" to get the wear that's on them?
Just visually inspect each cog and any wear should be apparent when comparing the profile of a symmetric tooth.
Your NEW chain will appreciate the least worn profile.
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Old 04-05-23, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by louky
I got into this a little more today. I was able to disassemble using my chain wrench, and an old piece of chain with vise-grips for the hold back. I put everthing in order with a zip tie and have it in the ultrasonic cleaner. Looks like there had been some gold paint on the parts, so this will all come off.

I tried to get the cogs apart and then notice some insanely small bolts holding the cogs together. Are these installed just for assembly purposes, do they need to go back if I have to turn the cogs around?

My plan right now is to reinstall this as is (after it is cleaned). I will put a new chain on and use that as a test for cog wear. If I have any issues, I will flip the cogs. This will be easy now that I know how to get it apart, thanks to you guys.
The"insanely small bolts" are just there to speed up installation.... they are too small to carry any significant load.

the "gold paint" is most likely Cadmium Plating to slow corrosion/rust. Is it shiny and a bit greenish?.. cadmium... or is it "glittery"?.. Paint.
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Old 04-05-23, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by maddog34
The"insanely small bolts" are just there to speed up installation.... they are too small to carry any significant load.

the "gold paint" is most likely Cadmium Plating to slow corrosion/rust. Is it shiny and a bit greenish?.. cadmium... or is it "glittery"?.. Paint.
It's acting like paint to me. I have simple green and vinegar in the ultrasonic cleaner and it is 2/3 off already, just wipes off.
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