Alternative Pedal Remover Tool
#1
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Alternative Pedal Remover Tool
Does anyone make a pedal wrench that has the an open end 15mm socket in the middle so you can conveniently push and pull up/down rather than using some kind of conventional wrench (where your pressure tends to move the bike/pedal and when the pedal breaks free bad things can happen)? It just seems like a natural but I don't see any after a quick search.
Thanks.
dave
Thanks.
dave
#2
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Open end 15 mm socket? Open end and socket are two different things. Is that what you mean?
I guess I sort of understand what you mean, essentially you want a pedal wrench with a handle on both sides. I've not seen one.
I guess I sort of understand what you mean, essentially you want a pedal wrench with a handle on both sides. I've not seen one.
Last edited by Iride01; 06-08-23 at 08:30 AM.
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#3
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Pedal wrenches are the length they are so that when you approach the task properly, you hold the pedal in one hand & the grip end of the wrench in the other the force applied cancels out & the torque moment is on the pedal spindle only.
Installing the pedal wrench wrongly as many amateurs tend to do summates the forces instead of canceling them, making the task very difficult.
Installing the pedal wrench wrongly as many amateurs tend to do summates the forces instead of canceling them, making the task very difficult.
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#4
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If by "bad things can happen" you mean having the pedal axle suddenly break free of the crank threads such that your knuckles slam into the teeth of the big chainring, just do what JohnDThompson does and wear a thick glove to protect your hand (JohnD wears a welder's glove, I believe).
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dave
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#7
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I use the Park PW-3 pedal wrench. It’s got a significantly longer handle that I closely align with the chain stay, and then squeeze the handle and chain stay together like you would a pair of channel locks, and the pedal generally loosens easily. Of course I don’t overly tighten my pedals though (and have never had an issue with one unscrewing). But if the pedal is unusually tight this might be a little more difficult. Before I had the PW-3, I would use a regular 15mm open end wrench, and fit a 12-16 inch length of steel pipe over it to give me the extra length and leverage. — Dan
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If you really must...
What about a 15mm Crows Foot on a Sliding T-Handle?
Barry
What about a 15mm Crows Foot on a Sliding T-Handle?
Barry
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#11
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Does anyone make a pedal wrench that has the an open end 15mm socket in the middle so you can conveniently push and pull up/down rather than using some kind of conventional wrench (where your pressure tends to move the bike/pedal and when the pedal breaks free bad things can happen)? It just seems like a natural but I don't see any after a quick search.
Thanks.
dave
Thanks.
dave
And yes, technique is paramount over what wrench you use. (Random pic off the googles.)
#12
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I use the Park PW-3 pedal wrench. It’s got a significantly longer handle that I closely align with the chain stay, and then squeeze the handle and chain stay together like you would a pair of channel locks, and the pedal generally loosens easily. Of course I don’t overly tighten my pedals though (and have never had an issue with one unscrewing). But if the pedal is unusually tight this might be a little more difficult. Before I had the PW-3, I would use a regular 15mm open end wrench, and fit a 12-16 inch length of steel pipe over it to give me the extra length and leverage. — Dan
Also this little cheapie I picked up at the flea market
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#13
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Careful if you ever use one of those. They like to blow apart where the ratchet clips in. Easy does it.
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I prefer something a little longer, with a little more leverage. I use a vintage Cyclo, which looks a lot like this Unior:
Unior Pedal Wrench
Unior Pedal Wrench
#15
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Does anyone make a pedal wrench that has the an open end 15mm socket in the middle so you can conveniently push and pull up/down rather than using some kind of conventional wrench (where your pressure tends to move the bike/pedal and when the pedal breaks free bad things can happen)? It just seems like a natural but I don't see any after a quick search.
Thanks.
dave
Thanks.
dave
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#16
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Sounds like the OP wants a bar with a 15 mm opening on one edge, in the middle, not at the ends. Sounds like that could easily be made.
#17
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I tested out a 15 mm crow's foot with a 3/8" ratchet. It works well on both sides regardless of how the slots on the pedal are clocked. My crow's foot is a bit thick. The Park Tool TWB-15 Pedal Wrench Crow Foot looks like it would work perfect.
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Forgive me but I don't see the advantage to the wrench design you wish to have. I'm not saying it wouldn't work, I just don't recognize what you want to accomplish. I do think though if you are having problems that as suggested by someone above, it may be technique. I've been removing pedals for decades with an open end wrench without issue. Even pretty well stuck pedals after using a penetrating oil.
I also would not be surprised to find that the wrench you want exists, I just can't imagine what it would be called. It may be worth a shot to email customer service at Grainger or McMaster-Carr with the sketch you have.
I also would not be surprised to find that the wrench you want exists, I just can't imagine what it would be called. It may be worth a shot to email customer service at Grainger or McMaster-Carr with the sketch you have.
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#20
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If by "bad things can happen" you mean having the pedal axle suddenly break free of the crank threads such that your knuckles slam into the teeth of the big chainring, just do what JohnDThompson does and wear a thick glove to protect your hand (JohnD wears a welder's glove, I believe).
dave
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#21
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Forgive me but I don't see the advantage to the wrench design you wish to have. I'm not saying it wouldn't work, I just don't recognize what you want to accomplish. I do think though if you are having problems that as suggested by someone above, it may be technique. I've been removing pedals for decades with an open end wrench without issue. Even pretty well stuck pedals after using a penetrating oil.
I also would not be surprised to find that the wrench you want exists, I just can't imagine what it would be called. It may be worth a shot to email customer service at Grainger or McMaster-Carr with the sketch you have.
I also would not be surprised to find that the wrench you want exists, I just can't imagine what it would be called. It may be worth a shot to email customer service at Grainger or McMaster-Carr with the sketch you have.
dave
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#23
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Being both an auto mechanic and a bike wrench, I own a behemoth collection of specialty tools and such a silly tool would be difficult to use.
Removing a pedal is relatively straightforward and easy. It's not a lug nut that requires a tire iron.
I manage to remove 100% of all pedals with my Park Tool PW-4 and only needed a cheater bar a handful of times because of twits that overtighened them too much on the install.
If you are hurting yourself you are doing something very wrong and my suggestion is to let your local bike shop deal with it.
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FWIW, this was a particularly tough pedal for some reason (probably installed by my LBS but not positive - but probably). I have removed pedals a half dozen times over the last 10 or so years, and this is my first injury (which was trivial, BTW).
From smd4 "Get a pedal wrench of your choice and learn to use it properly." Trying to find a wrench of my choice is exactly what I am doing here. I remember the old 4 way tire irons from the 1960's when I was learning to drive (and change tires). I just found those easier than the one-sided tools common today. And being 73 years old with some non-trivial shoulder problems does not help.
But it sounds like I can end my search for the tool of my choice and learn to deal with the wrenches available. There are techniques that do not involve your arms at all that I should probably try out.
dave
From smd4 "Get a pedal wrench of your choice and learn to use it properly." Trying to find a wrench of my choice is exactly what I am doing here. I remember the old 4 way tire irons from the 1960's when I was learning to drive (and change tires). I just found those easier than the one-sided tools common today. And being 73 years old with some non-trivial shoulder problems does not help.
But it sounds like I can end my search for the tool of my choice and learn to deal with the wrenches available. There are techniques that do not involve your arms at all that I should probably try out.
dave
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Using a wrench like the one I suggested on the drive side, for example, place the crank arm around 3:00 or 4:00. ideally as close to 3:00 as the wrench will allow. Hold the pedal with your right hand. Place the wrench on the flats, facing left. Ideally close to 9:00. Push down on the wrench with your left hand while balancing the force with your right hand on the pedal. The motion should keep your knuckles down and away from the chainring teeth. Eventually your left hand will loosen the pedal, hopefully without the need for gloves, catchers gear or a cup. See post 17 by Bici Veloce above.
Because you won’t have a way to keep the cranks from turning as you use it, a tool as you suggest, with a hand on each side, will be exceedingly difficult to use. For the same reason you loosen lug nuts with the 4-way tire iron before jacking the wheel off the ground.
Last edited by smd4; 06-08-23 at 07:40 PM.
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